A lot of DIY T-Nut videos on RU-vid. This is the first one I've seen showing the important step of deforming the threads on the bottom to prevent jacking. Nice work.
There's a bunch of reasons I keep coming back to the BH videos. It's not just the "Bob Ross of the machining world" soothing dialogue or the unassuming yet bountiful knowledge bank of good workshop practices but it also includes little things, like pronunciation of words like "pedagog..... pedagodgi....gigical.." I'll be right back after a quick google. Oh I just saw the $5 dollar word up the top corner there ..
This was great. Thanks. I love the narration, especially when you "catch" yourself going on and on - when I do it at home I end up stopping and saying, "I'm babbling, aren't I?" Love your videos. Keep up the good work.
T nuts are a great project. Many years of use you will get out of them makes them so satisfying to make. Glad to see the tri fly face mill working for you.
Quinn, I'd like to thank you for all of the vids you've put up here on the tube. My Father-in-Law is a machinist (tool & die maker) but lives too far away to teach. I've learned a LOT from your videos and will continue to follow you channel as long as you continue to post. Again, Thank you!
Don't ever stop making videos Quinn. I love them all and all of them teach. Who else could make miniature Abom chips so well? Yes, talking is hard if anyone happens to be listening .. I don't have that problem. Even I don't listen to what I'm saying.🤣🤣
I really like using stub drills for drilling non-critical holes, less flex than regular drills so closer to centre drilling first with fewer tool changes. As long as space isn’t an issue of course.
A good set of screw machine length (stub) drills is fantastic to have on small mills as often times it is all that will fit in the limited Z working space on taller setups.
I was stuck for tee nuts a while back and time was of the essence. I measured the tee slots on my mill (5/8) and bought some carriage/coach bolts and nuts to suit from the local hardware store and had the rotary table secured in no time at all. Really liking the content of your tutorials!
Great way to make t-nuts, Quinn. Another way to keep the screws from bottoming out is to stop tapping before the taper part goes all the way through the nut.
"Look, narration is hard, OK?" That and the follower. LOL! Yeah, we've all had those days.... Basic stuff done well is always good. And the way you milled the cross section was a good trick to use elsewhere. As always a great video and well worth the watching.
Nothing wrong with making ones own parts even if they are inexpensive. We do it because we love to just make small bits of metal out of larger bits. And sometimes make smaller bits slightly larger with the welder because we screwed up. That's my style, lol.
A very enjoyable watch, Quinn. Thanks. I am a hobby machinist, with limited skills and facilities. I did a job for one client, which by luck and star alignment, turned out exceptionally well. It was an awkward component to make, right at the edge of my skills level. The client referred me to someone else, with the introduction: ...an expert machinist... I could only deny this, and say that I watch a lot of youtube videos... Anyway, it was a fairly simple job; a single point internal trapezoidal threading operation. ( with brass/bronze/yellowmetal material supplied )
They can be faster, almost everything other than the contact surfaces can be unmachined if you have correct size stock. Cold saw cut ends and deburring
Watched Video. Thanks for the content. Hard not to be redundant with so many well-versed commenters, but hear goes: another method of "staking" the thread exit, is to lay a bearing ball on said exit, and give it a judicious hammer blow. This was a favorite clandestine method used to cheat the no-go gage for a controlled feature. Some facilities frown on the presence of bearing balls in the vicinity of threading operations...
When I saw the video title I thought this was about T nuts that would be quicker to insert into the slots or something. Maybe with some red speed lines painted on the side.
@@jacklewis1 i learned the hard way that removing t-nuts from my table "quickly" is not to use 140psi of compressed air and yelling "hey guys, look at this"
I really like your channel. Watching makes me feel good, don't know why. I'm a retired EE who would like to have a mill and a metal lathe (I am a wood guy so I have a wood lathe. Maybe that's why. Keep up the good work. Thanks.
I'm a non-retired EE and a few years ago I got myself a lathe, which has just been joined by a mill. No regrets! Machine work is super fun even if you suck at it to begin with.
holy hell =/ that's some serious b.s., if they're some oddball size you might even be able to make a few bucks if you can hook up with some others that have the same chair model =)
@@ScumfuckMcDouchefacethe irony is that a lot of the parts they use are common enough. For example: the shocks on the chair are also used on mountain bikes, where they cost about $20, but from the chair manufacturer they’re $150.
@@JordanHaisley wow! Is that because a lot of their sales are through insurance, so they justify it by thinking they're not (usually) bilking the people that could use a break?... I like the idea that parts are interchangeable and all that, i had no idea or at least never thought bout it... I have the feeling that if I needed a chair I'd have it tuned right up with a bunch of Norco and Specialized parts haha =)
Im relatively new to machining. For me it’s strictly a hobby. I dislike wasting metal because where I live it is not only expensive, but an hour drive each way to get it. My point is, why not use the slitting saw to rough in the shape. That way you get the small corner piece for another project, at the same time making less chips.
yeah I agree with many ppl recommending doing all holes and tapping before cutting, since the tolerance for a tnut is basically anything goes as long as it slides well in the slot. esp if you have a dro, absolute centering isn't needed except for perfectionists haha. band saw setup I think also faster than mill fixture and changing slitting saw in and back out. good job tho! very enjoyable to watch you make some chips
Horizontal mill and gang mill the profile. Nice to actually see some steel being machined on a PM25/G0704. Usually just guys on RU-vid milling aluminium
Nice, just got myself 2500lbs of cast iron that they say can be used as a milling machine, just got to get it to the basement 😨 This will be my first projekt. Thanks. Cheers from Sweden ❄❄❄
gf walked by while as i was watching. she stoped by and read "fat nuts! can they be faster?" instead of the actual title. looked at me for one second with the best WTF?! face ever. then looked at the screen again, started laughing and said "mooooving on!". fun times.
I tried that climb milling once because it was said it was good. End mill fragments everywhere! I like you method better.... I have a sloppy pseudo mill. 😥 I get a lot out of if from methods you have shown. Thanks.
Cut a couple of nuts in half lengthways. You can drop these into a slot when you discover you need another hold-down half way through machining. The stud holds the nut together.
When i tap in the mill i hang a couple of pounds of weight ob the down feed handle so it frees up my hands to get both of them on the tap wrench and keeps the follower on the the tap wrench.
Another good one! You do a wonderful job of explaining on your channel. After watching your lathe series, I feel like I could get a lathe in my garage and almost immediately start making parts. But alas, I do not own a lathe. And I've got too many hobbies going on as well as a house remodel, so would it make any sense for me to buy a lathe? Someday!
Just subbed the other day. Been a machinist 40+ years as was my dad before me. I enjoy your videos and the manual machines as opposed to the CNC stuff. Have you ever spoke about your experiences and how you arrived to this point? College? Trade college? I hear you say model engineer? Have you given a shop tour? I might be late to the party but that stuff would make for another good video to watch IMHO!
Well,,,,,What I do is to use regular parallels and cut the steps, Then with the stock left in the mill we drill and power tap the holes,,,,and THEN cut them apart in the band saw. Our mill is quite a bit bigger then yours but we can make half a dozen in less the a half hour,,,,,including clean up and putting everything away. - We make them for customer's fixtures all the time.
A small tip would be rather than take shallow depths of cuts the width radially you need I try to take full depth of cuts and a small axial engagement maybe .01-.025” this uses the tool out evenly and doesn’t risk chipping the corners as much as a shallow depth of cut does. It makes these Long angry chips though so be careful :) I have a video where I made my Mando blaster on the CNC where I use this method to peel Away tons of material at once
Heh. Amazon's price for Building the New Shay was $50 before the video came out, jumped to $53 when the video came out to your Patreon supporters, and then jumped to $101.25 when the video came out on RU-vid. Blondihacks, moving (3/4" scale) markets!
Been doing this the same way for 30 years and counting. Only difference is I flip the stock 90* so I have more material sunk in the vise and climb cut using the 2/3 rule.
When I tried to make the 'side-slots' my milling bit (2fl 1/2*1/2*1*3) broke/shattered at one flute's end. I used a speed of 300 rpm and I was going real slow on feeding speed (manually) and I removed a very thin layer of metal at each pass. I am using mild steel. I am using a combo lathe-mill (King Canada Industrial KC-1620CLM which has a 1/2hp motor). I am usure what gone wrong. RPM speed too slow? too fast? Milling machine not rigid/strong enough?
How deep of a cut can you take on your PM25? I have a PM25MV and it really struggles with anything more than 0.010" and with .200 stepover on a half inch endmill (around 650 rpm). I'm amazed you can use a slitting saw on that stock too, my PM25 completely freaks out on steel.
When you machined the main body of the T-nuts with the endmill, why did you go full width and low depth, in contrast to full depth and small width? Was it "just because I can", or is there a notable advantage? Thanks, Hansi
Any link to the insert face mill you have been using.. I have several of the HHIP or Accusize R8 Indexable, that have served me well, but am open to improvement.
