FASTEST WAY TO SAND PRIMER FOR SHOW CAR FINISH 

Been in the industry of restorations for almost 40 years now. Good technique. Everyone does it a little bit different, but the basic principles are the same. Stay blessed, God willing sir.

Now this guy. This guy right here. Is the man i want to be taught by. No mask, for a quick show sanding...im sure he wears one when it gets foggy in there. No messing about. Time saving. Best finish. No BS. Ridiculous metaphors. Random shouting. He's an absolute legend! The guy who taught me how to plaster was very similar. Never forgot the man. Owe him everything.

I find it hilarious that some guy on his couch is questioning how you do what you do...I have bean painting cars for 20 years now. When I watch you I see a guy who knows exactly what he is doing love your work brotha keep hammering!!!!

When that primer shrinks you’ll see those 80 grit scratches. I did auto body for 15 years. I been out of it for about 10 years. I used urethane primers that weren’t supposed to shrink but they did. No short cuts. I always sanded to 150-180 before priming

We love you, Chad. So please, put a mask on ! I've done that for years and just looking at you doing that, dust is coming out my computer screen. Jolene wants two things : a marvelous car AND a marvelous Chad. Both of them. And for a long time.

I see some people saying no but all car truck you done be out this world giving all tricks up for free thanks for video on here love channel

Chad you have the right attitude working on the Jag. I think so many over thing and never get anything done on their projects, I'm one of them..

Jolene does a fantastic job filming. She knows when to get in close which makes it easier to understand what's being discussed.

I understand what you mean about the different grit paper being a wood floor sander. You can over sand and not even be cutting the wood. Very informative guys. Watched the whole build

Sure wish I would of had someone like you to show me when I was in my twenties . It would have saved me a lot of money and time . Your a great teacher and someone for young people to look up to.

Wow. I painted my first car and went through all the sanding steps and spent a loooong time. Wish I had seen this video before as I would’ve loved to save some time and work.

I am getting to this stage on some old rusty Vw double cabs. I see your sanding logic. Will give it a try.. Thanks for your time.

I remember back in the day when all it was lead and lacquer primer and lacquer glaze . I will say now the materials are like working with cement to clay like in the old days and their are a lot of different types of materials that if you don’t know what the uses or apply it at the right stage can be a disaster in the overall system and longevity of the restoration

When I got my Gamora it was a parts car and everyone said it was going to be a money pit and was junk. I followed you and used G2 and my $375 Urechem kit driveway paint turned out great. Thank you!

I agree the method is fast, and what you say about course paper is what cuts strait. But I'd go to from 80 to 120 before primer. Just to make sure sand 80 grit sand scratches dont shrink back over time. Love the content Chad great work.

I am a fan of Bad Chad. I have watch all his episodes and can't wait till the next one comes out. His imagination has created some of the coolest cars I have ever seen. This video is very educational for those who are getting into bodywork. Thanks Bad Chad!

High build primer is a god send when you're deadline becomes reality.. I love my Flexi sander for curvy surfaces

Would be intresting to see that car few months after its been painted. I have been bodyman/painter for 22 years and seen many cars when people used wrong grit. I agree with Chad that 80 grit will make is straight, but ALWAYS take finer grit 220-240 or 320 BEFORE put primer on. None of excisting primer products on market will work to cover 80 or even 120 grit....It will look great first few days or weeks but it will shrink and show that eventually.

It's a pleasure watching you work my friend, you're a true artist and have produced some beautiful machines.

Got it.... Guide coat shows the imperfections and allows you to smooth better.... Dude you are awesome!!!

I like learning new ways to do something.Chad makes it all look simple.Jolene is always in the right place so we can see.

It's always great going back in time to see the stages of the build.

Shops that I have worked at required me to finish the filler with 120-150g before the primer. So I would simply guide coat the filler and DA it till the guide coat is all gone. Painters couldn't believe how straight my bodywork was after finishing with a DA. You are absolutely correct about blocking filler w 150-220g. Paper clogs and won't sand evenly.

Love watching your videos. I'm getting ready to do my own body work for the first time and you make me feel comfortable that I won't completely mess this up.

Thanks for explaining the relationship between primer, filler and choice of sandpaper in a way that is easy to immediately understand ! I have done some body work on my projects and realize I always have done it wrong. Polishing instead of straightening and getting those waves you mentioned. Thanks Chad !

Thanks for the video. You are awesome taking time to show your technique for fastest way to do body work. I am starting to restore my 1948 chevy five window pickup again. My dad and me built it together when I was in High School in 1995. I did it the harder way fine sanded with 220 and 320 before primer. I'm going to do it your way this time, save a lot of time and work.

Great to see that somebody else uses a 6" da and a 8" da for body work and blocking primer. I even use my 6"da to initially block my clearcoat.

RETIRED NOW, BUT HAVE BEEN USEING 80 GRIT MYSELF AND GREAT RESULTS , GREAT WORK AND IDEAS , THANKS

i've done this for many years and loved this work.... totally agree about 40-80 grid is able to make it straight, but i allways go with sanding blocks instead of a DA sander if it really has to be straight.... the big advantage of this car is that it had no flat surfaces maybe the doorpanel, but that's the only panel that is really flat, a curved surfase is very forgiving for minor imperfections priming after 80 grid works really well especially when you give it a good cure.. nice job

Primer filler amen, was waiting for this episode and for you to school the naysayers, in 1977 we were using primer filler to go over filler in the UK body shop I worked in and it saved the day every time. They got better over the years obs but so pleased to see this episode :)

Hey Chad and Jolene......Big fan Seattle! Saw the repeat on Discover Channel of the Pinto build. I watched when it first aired and watched both episodes again!! Great stuff....

Great Lesson and Advice. Love The Progress on A Brilliant Project👍👍👍

Great thinking Chad good old fashioned Canadian engineering! Thanks for the sanding lesson

I will admit , your videos is most educational. You don’t do short cuts. Very great job

Now you can start block sanding by hand, D A only good on flat surface!

You show me a lot i love your honesty and work ty for all the time you use to show us how to doit

Very interesting didn’t understand glide coat but I do now I’ll try that next time thanks so much

Smart idea on the sanding. I'm going to try that Feather Fill.

Fussy pedantic perfectionist grand master of body work , bloody enjoyed every minute.

Great explanation on the 40 80 paper grip man!!!! I have a 1971 VW Bus that I will subscribe and follow your advise once I start my Peral two tone paint job soon... Cheers man Thanks for the awesome video and WOW that car looks amazing I cannot wait to see the finish product...Cheers man stay safe...

I did a truck 14 years ago same way as him. Wet sand polish finish looked perfect. Once it got out in the sun a year or so the scratches started appearing think from different materials shrinking at different rates.

I love your show and how your mind works when creating something unusual. Nice that joline is by your side. Keep doing it.

I'm glad they asked, I learn more with a little antagonism, My Dad was a Marine. lol Good stuff Bad Chad.

Everything Chad says makes so much sense. Very good teacher and explainer

I'm a body tech watch your show love your work bro and you are old school and it works don't change my man

Really like he's talking as he doing the work explaining what he is doing and where mistakes can and will happen I am doing a 1958 chevy fleet side long bed hope full to get it done this summer its my first build complet tear down

I'm looking forward to the end result.🥰❤

Another awesome video 👍👍

Another great video. Thanks for sharing

fantastic video as always

it is a pleasure watching and listing to you

Bad chad, Thank you for your channel and showing folks what really goes into a restoration. When people haven’t done this they have no clue.

We called it over spraying not guide coatings. But we were a small hot rod shop. Sure miss it. Keep up the good work cant wait to see that beautiful thing done the right way and looks like your doing it. Much love from one car guy to another. Or one car brother to another. And i only knew how to use a DA not a block. Just what i was taught with. Just have to be careful to not let your fingers get hit by that weight on it lol only takes a few times of losing your finger nail to learn lol

Been using feather fill since since 1975. When it hit the market they advertised it to go over 40 grit no problem. Went from bare bondo to paint with a team and best paint in 3 days using feather fill

Great job so far. What a beautiful car you're building !

That is a work of art .

thanks for the vid chad..very good and educational

You are absolutely correct. If you call 2k primer company's they will tell you 2k primers can fill 80 grit scratches. 36, 80, prime 180, 400 paint.

Great work man..many patients..

Whenever I see Chad, I feel inspired.

Very nice work!!!👍👍👍

Thanks Chad and Jolene! Cheers 🍻

Just watched this video , nice work mate , well informative , and is that a cattle dog 🐶, 🤘🤘

I have to admit the 40/80 prime technique is way faster. It makes perfect sense to me. I worked on my bug forever trying to straighten it out. I’d always end up sanding my primer all the way back off for the first coat but I’m just a novice diy guy. I’m horrible at trying to perfect filler before I prime. That primer is amazing how much it fills and doesn’t go through

Bro, I dig the part about tilting the sander. I have constant arguments with my guys. I believe in flat all the way to 1500 grit

I don't know if I missed it but did you ever trim out/ around the driver's side rear fender skirt like you did on the passenger's side?

Looking Bloody Good Chad...Good on you mate!!!

Yes the high build has got those scratches out. But over time the primer will sink revealing those scratches all over the car. Invest in some blocks too for the primer, keeps everything nice and straight and flat.

I learned more on this one video than years of watching and wasting time on sanding blocking and painting! Thank you sir! You are a gentleman and a true craftsman!

Love the electric DA Chad! I use the same, for the same reasons you do. I like Makita though. Keep up the great work!

Polyester filler will crack over time especially in sun light I’ve been building cars for 40 years I started with ppg red oxide then used kondar high build when it became available Now I use nexerra urethane high build I epoxy prime over bondo first 80 grit paper will make something feel strait when it’s not If you’re going to do a perfection job that will pass a fluorescent light test I use white cotton gloves I do agree with guid coat but I finish with 150 or 120 grit it’s just corse enough to get it straight You can’t get something strait with fine paper but once it’s strait polish it with 320 lightly if it’s strait you’ll know it Bondo is very hard to get perfect I work my metal first I use glaze coat instead of polyester filler upole icing is best If I have a area that needs allot of filler I use upol fiberall first Ppg makes a purple glass base filler that’s even better buttttttt $$$$$$ I use urethane high build fillers and I block the first coat with 150 Then re prime 4 to 6 coats with 2.0 tip Dura blocks are the best and I can keep up with you and I’ll have glass surface and I’m 59 I work circles around most I also like using Hutchins inline sander ‘air file Try using a interface pad with Velcro stick-it paper on your DA I use air finsishing da the choice of da can make a difference on getting something strait You get what you pay for with air tools I’ll smoke you on body work sorry sounds harsh but it’s true lol I build show cars --most of my jobs that I’ve done are 10 years old and still look like I painted them yesterday You might be faster but no way you’re straiter and strait is king It’s never done till it’s done right 😀 Easy sand and feather fill are garbage they don’t last Knowing what products to use and how much to put on is a very big deal That wood finishing electric da with a bent pad will make more waves than it gets rid off sorry 😢 Come to my shop in Louisiana for a few days I’ll show you a few things and make you faster

Chingon maestro mucha esperiencia👍

you are right on

Big help!!! Than you!

Thanks Chad for showing this you sure are right

Great Video! Thank you

Interesting explanations

Really enjoy Brad. Cheers. Mike in Oz

I am kicking myself for going down to 240. Now I am fighting the waves. Thanks for show how simple and fast it can be.

thanks for advice great job gonna pull out electric DA

Chad I really appreciate the way you break down the steps and the reason why you do it how you do it. Also love your creative mind. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!

Thanks Chad and Jolene I'm at guide coat stage with my beetle had the exact same argument about sanding grit with my painter ending up sanding to 400 alot of work will be spraying the car in a few weeks a few tips would come in handy 👍

With a hearty Yee Haw & screeching Waa Hoo in her rusty crusty truck, with her faithful Indian companion CROWBAR at her side - The Lone Stranger rattles and rumbles in a cloud of flying debris across Nova Scotia to get in place for the Chad & Jolene daily shindig.

good sound principles.

Evercoat feather fill G2 is the best polyester primer out there. It's the only poly that can be wetsanded. The only poly that you can use an etch prime first, then wetsand without it holding in the moisture. Been using it for many many years.

i like you talking about what your working on . Chad, you should be a body shop school teacher.

Thanks!

What brand of electric DA do you use? Are they forced rotation? In other words the rotation part of the DA does not stop if you apply pressure? Thanks Chad.

Using a da will always leave waffles in the final paint. Hand block is the only way to finish. Also going to 120 not stopping at 80. Just the way I do it but you are still talented man.

Awesome PEPSI tool bin !

Thank you

I absolutely love this car...even over Elvis that I also love(besides the disgusting dodge grill that dont even look good on dodges lol) I can't wait to see the interior finished.. .and that wet paint job with white walls gleeming

as always...great

I always prime over 80 grit, nice car Chad.

You cool! A hello from germany!!!!

Is it better to get the guid coat ot get a cheap can of black paint

Hey very informative video learning a ton, question I have a ford truck I would like to repaint I have started sanding it and it has 3 layers of primer the truck has no rust it’s 1979 should I take it down to bare metal.

looking good

ALL materials shrink back... The new materials are amazing, but they also do this to a degree. The effect of this is only seen a few years down the road and shows as sanding scratches. What you are doing is production bodyshop techniques, which is fine, and certainly saves time. For what it's worth, I start with epoxy primer-sealer on the metal. Scuff with 220, followed by spray filler, similar product to what you are using. Wait a few days. Block-sand with 80 and or 120. Spot putty as needed. Apply a final coat of epoxy primer-sealer. Guide coat. Wait a few days. Dry- block with 220, 320. Guide-coat. Wet-sand with 400. Once the surface develops a shine, it can be checked with reflected light for any areas that are not true. Finish with 500 wet. The idea is to finish with an epoxy 'jacket' around the car that stops any who knows what from coming through. That DA on high-crown areas can be tricky to produce a true surface! Great on the low-crown or flat areas though.

polyester prime is what your using right? so its like spray bog, but if using normal 2k primer you wouldnt prime over 80 as it would sink back and not hold out at all. love your vids by the way every smart in what you do!