Fazer Clutch Replacement Video 

No worries bud

It’s easy if you take it step by step. Make sure you torque the bolts correctly for the pressure plate. It’s the only thing I really missed out of the video.

@@db192 so that is really it, dont have to worry about the clutch cable or anything, also would you happen to know the torque settings

May need to adjust the cable slightly, I was able to do this at the handlebar. Spring bolts are 8nm and the cover bolts are 12nm.

@@db192 really only 8nm for the spring bolts

@@reecetaylor9518 yeah I thought it was low too. Here is a service manual that gives you another step by step. It’s got loads of other jobs in there too, go to page 149. www.journey.cz/moto/navody/Yamaha%20Fazer%20FZS600%20'98%20Service%20Manual.pdf

There are different size plates in the set?

You’re very welcome!

Hello Benjy sorry about the late reply. Yes, the friction plate you are asking about has a thinner width to accommodate the anti-judder spring. This friction plate is the 3 plate to go into the clutch assembly. So 1 normal friction, one steel then the thinner width and spring go in then continue with steel, friction, steel etc.

Hello, you can adjust the clutch cable where it goes into the clutch housing. There are forums where they explain how to do this. It takes up the slack in the cable then you can fine tune it at the handlebars.

​@@db192does the pressure plate go back on a certain way I mean does it have to line up a certain way👍

7 friction plates and 6 steel plates. 👍🏼

@@db192 Thanks for your reply. I wonder why the kit contains 8 plates of each type...

Right so today I've done this job on my X reg (2000) Fazer. Inside the basket I found 9 friction plates (one of them with a bigger internal diameter to accommodate the anti judder spring) and 8 steel plates. As the friction plate kit I bought from Ebay (£34) which was supposed to be dedicated to my bike only contained 8 same size friction plates I just used the old bigger internal diameter one again. I also replaced the steel plates (£36 from Wemoto). I'm happy to say the bike runs sweet again... Back to practising wheelies lol Thanks again for that tutorial DB 192

@@piotrtomczak6013 great job, glad the video helped.

You’re welcome! Glad it helped.

Very odd, I haven't heard of that happening before. Hope you got it sorted.

Pressure end cap not on correct

@@paulshelley4754 hello mate. I've just ran into the same problem, I've ordered a new pressure plate. Could you tell me what I need to do to ensure it doesn't happen again as I tightened it to the specified torque

im having this problem with my fazer s 600 2002. I took off the cover to the front sprocket (where your clutch cable goes inside) and tightened the bolt holding the sprocket in place. The nut was super loose only held on my the bent washer. This solved all my low rev *knocking/rumbling/vibrating* feeling in your ankles for a whole 24 hours before returning. I am now about to take the cover off and have a look for a second time but deeply considering taking off my clutch cover and investigating hence watching these videos. Did you ever find the solution to your problem? Thanks.

Yes that’s correct. On the right side of the bike

@@db192 cheers pal my bike an 02 fazer 6 the revs go up but not the speed so I'd say the clutch is goosed from watching the videos

If you have replaced the clutch then you may have to adjust your lever cable. Over time it may have been tightened to compensate for the wearing clutch, now you have a new one in the bike the cable needs to be adjusted. Try winding the adjuster on the handlebars all the way in to see if that makes a difference, then wind it out a bit at a time until it feels right. Give it a try and let me know how you get on.

@@db192 appreciate you getting back to me! I don’t think I have done anything wrong and the adjuster is pretty much as far out as it will go but still a lot of slack it’s very weird!

Coils?

scotfaze171060 Is it just at Very very low revs?

+danny rose ofcourse

+danny rose On the FZS, if you work on the bike resting on its side stand, you do not need to empty the oil.

Personally id say cross the board with them so start at the top left and then bottom right then top right, bottom left, all the way right then all the way left

I believe they are called wave springs that help with clutch engagement. Stops the clutch biting and causing a judder.

@@db192 cant find them on the internet for my yamaha fazer 600 :(

Hello Imad Banna, Thanks for the question, the clutch will sometimes slip under hard acceleration especially when it's cold. This is usually a sign of a worn clutch. Slipping is when the revs will rise quickly with less increase in speed where the plates aren't gripping properly.

Thanks for help mate I would like to ask another quastion as its my new bike I am having trouble turning it on the first time I try to switch the key on the left handle u know what I mean ? The key that makes the engine warm and ready and still wont turn on until I press the right hand handle I am sorry mate my english is too bad and I dont what those I just told u abt called hehe

Hello Tim Jones, The clutches are pretty tough on the fazers, typical Yamaha build quality. This clutch was changed around 40,000. Sometimes they last even longer but I'm partial to a few wheelies when the time calls for it so it may have had more wear than normal use.

Ashley Debell iv stopped using the clutch. I use it only for getting going, if I time it right, its not needed, but you have to be gentle. The 2001 fazer has 18k and is in perfect condition.

@@timjones1863 I know it’s 6 years 😆 but do you not damage selector forks if your never using clutch for changing gears just starting off?

+TheSqurwiel yes

Most motorcycles are wet clutch systems, unlike cars.