Fender Super 112 Total Overhaul

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This was a total refurbish. When I got this amp it was completely non-functional, horribly spray-painted, with broken pots, no sound, messed up jacks, etc. So I brought it back to better than new!
The Red Knob Fenders are an older design (~1990) with a lovely big clean tone. I actually gigged one for a few years. It's maybe 40-50W realistically, with 2 6L6s in the power section driven by some fairly large transformers. To get all the volume you have to use the Drive Channel - I think the overdrive is kind of charming, but most people will tell you to keep it on the clean channel for a nice pedal platform.
The EQ is strange on this one - it works as part of the volume circuit, so if you have B/M/T on 0/0/0 there's no output. If you want the most clean tone, you have to dime the EQ circuit along with the clean volume. It's shared between the channels. The footswitch swaps between the clean and drive channels. The Presence push/pull option is your secret weapon for getting a good overdrive tone on this amp.
This one got a "Spaghetti Western" style redesign.
+ Red Wine Taurus Tolex
+ Tan Leather Corners and Handle
+ Wheat Cane Grill Cloth
+ New Cream & Black Knobs
+ Fixed Broken Pots
+ Bigger Reverb Tank for Maximum Morricone tones
+ Eminence Legend Speaker (actually was already in there, but is a great upgrade for the amp!)
+ Fully re-capped power section with F&T caps
+ Fixed a broken input jack
+ Some other circuit cleaning throughout
+ New heavy duty locking casters for easier transport
All in all, it's better than new. These amps are actually pretty great sounding, and this one is now one of a kind!
The best tone to my ears :
Use the Drive Channel, Pull Bright, Gain 0 Vol (as needed) T7 M5 B4 Rev4 Presence7.
It's like a Tweed Bassman / Plexi tone! Pleasantly rich, thick, and with the slightest bit of bite when you dig in.
There are actually a ton of great sounds in the amp if you're willing to play with some knobs. You get an extra gain stage by using the drive channel, which really thickens the sound up nicely. The overdrive gets pretty fuzzy/ fizzy which has its uses, but for a base tone to play off of, the settings above are quite righteous.

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4 июн 2022

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Комментарии : 30

@DrDannyMannGuitar 2 года назад

Nice work dude!

@swordkingjedimaster003 2 года назад

Classic

@tonystark9118 Год назад

I have a 1990's version and the bright channel does not work on the gain channel bummer! Thanks for the demo!

@marcgendron3696 5 месяцев назад

These amps sound awesome, however working on these amps are a pain.

@jackpaynebassist 5 месяцев назад

Agreed on both points! Def underrated in tone, and almost all PCB amps are a pain to work on

@simshardin6462 Год назад

When you stripped the tolex, was the amp solid wood or particle? Would you be able to sand and stain it?

@simshardin6462 Год назад

I quickly discovered its more like particle board ha.

@jackpaynebassist Год назад

It is indeed particle board! Not very pretty at all, and surprisingly heavy!

@berndketterl1701 8 месяцев назад

Hey, can you tell me what alternate knobs you used? Link would be nice👌🏻

@jackpaynebassist 8 месяцев назад

lovemyswitches.com/cupcake-style-knob-with-indicator-21mm-od/ that site has a ton of options, but I believe those are the ones in question.

@on1ytheb3st Год назад

What is some of the work you had to do on the inside? Was it mostly just replacing filter caps or the notorious faulty preamp input jacks as well? Thinking about breaking mine apart, it has this weird issue of cutting out volume or some part of the gain stage after playing a while (lots of weird fuzzy breakup too when this happens). Sounds great initially for the first 15-20 minutes or so. I replaced all of the tubes and that seemed to make it go away for a good while but the issue eventually came back.

@jackpaynebassist Год назад

Filter caps definitely, but also fixed up a few of those those god awful jacks. I reflowed the solder in a few places, but I don't recall offhand if I ended up replacing many other parts. Possibly a few other coupling caps and resistors. These amps are pushing 35-40 by now, so they're all due for a tune up!

@on1ytheb3st Год назад

@@jackpaynebassist Did you see any browning on the PCB on any track locations, apparently that is common from heat and I’m curious if that needs special prevention or if it’s somewhat a normal consequence of a 30 year old amp.

@on1ytheb3st Год назад

@@jackpaynebassist I guess a better question would be how did you access the filter capacitors to discharge them if they are on the underside of the PCB?

@jackpaynebassist Год назад

I had to remove the PCB from the enclosure first! Some of these caps have the leads accessible on the top too, since IIRC they were flattened on the PCB instead of standing upright. Removing the PCB is a little tedious, but it's standard procedure. I don't recall seeing any serious browning on this one, but it's been a minute. I ALWAYS measure the voltages with my multimeter before doing anything, on all the caps I can see, just to make absolutely sure there's nothing of consequence there.

@on1ytheb3st Год назад

@@jackpaynebassist Good Deal, yeah I actually went ahead and got the entire board out. Checked the filter cap voltages from exposed side and found everything had already discharged. ‘‘Twas a beast getting everything unhooked. Now I’m trying to figure out what I should replace to fix the intermittent cutting out of the clean channel volume. For sure replacing all filter caps. I’ve heard those iC branded caps are terrible, should I replace all iC branded caps? I’ve heard of some plate resistors going open but the common ones mentioned online are actually in spec (R140,R145, R112,R152). Any others you know of that could be the culprits. It should be noted that I had new tubes which reduced the issue for a while but it eventually came back hence why I think it’s either the filter caps or something else creating the issue. Also how do you tell the difference between Carbon comp/film resistors and metal film resistors so that I replace them with the right type?