I'm a cognitive neuroscientist & musician that loves weird old technology and engineering. Seriously, I'm addicted to learning how things work. This channel is mostly for instrument and equipment demos, live performances, instructional videos and other music-related content.
I make psychedelic lounge music as ok jolson - check out on my links and listen!
2 years later update - I have bought ANOTHER one of these (pls help) and tried some other things to get an EVEN BETTER result. In a nutshell, there's SO much treble boosting in this circuit and there are 2 cold biased tube stages in a row. Along with a replacement of the large electrolytic caps, I tried this: Remove C3 & C6 (treble peakers / voltage divider bypass) Remove C5 (cathode bypass cap that's boosting HF on a gain stage) - This turns V1B into a slight cold clipping stage Reduce R15 to 1.5K - changes V2A into a more evenly biased gain stage Using 2 x 12AT7 tubes I left the tone stack the same this time, but now ALL of the range on the treble is useable - with a dark tone, or a bright tone available. It starts to break up around noon on the gain knob, can do fairly clean and still has that fuzzy insanity at the top of the gain stage. It's like adding a whole new Marshall / Hi-Watt channel to my amp! I'll make a video showing this at some point.
Your not going to find the source of the issue ? The resistor over heated , it wasn’t the cause of the issue. Just from the video I see it needs a recap. All the electrolytics gotta go. At least the power section. Check bias as well. That’s a start . Id expect it to be repaired then. I wouldn’t run it as is, if the amp runs hot (it does) you’ll end up damaging the leads by the PcB mounted tube sockets and that’s a time consuming and fragile repair
Hey dude, nice playing.. I used on this track ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_A9ZjkaO2fA.htmlsi=PYBOvjUr5BhLAcw1 through fender twin sim.
I have this guitar and the pickups while great for solid body sounded muddy on hollowbody like this, I guess you know it already judging from how the bass strings sounded - you must have eq quite a bit for that. Good recording techniques make up for everything, it sounded good here, good job.
I generally like a very bright guitar sound, and this definitely takes some EQ on the amp at least to get there. I also stayed with roundwounds on this guitar instead of swapping for flatwounds for the same reason. Thanks!
These have always been a great option. The earliest ones unfortunately use the old peavey truss rod that needs the special wrench. After having owned perhaps 100 of these, Dyna Basses, Forum, and Fury basses, I can say the later models are even better (but don't look as cool). They tend to have fewer quirks and oddball issues, however- the last of the USA model versions of these did not have the bi-laminated neck. The bi-laminated neck was a Peavey feature from the earliest days and was later licensed to G&L to use. It's a better neck and you can identify it by the two pieces used to make the neck.
About a year ago, I recused a couple of Cary CAD 50 M Power amps and a Cary SLP94 Preamp from going in a dumpster. Also about to go in the dumpster was a AMC Not AIMS Personalized Vocal sound. At first look the AMC looks just like the AIMS. What is the difference between the two. Is the AMC an older version of vise a versa. I can't find much information on AMC. Would this make a good guitar or bass amp. any information would be much appreciated. The case is unusual as well, it is red with Metalic sparkle's very 70's flair.
I did some searching but couldn't find anything either! AIMS only existed briefly so it wouldn't surprise me if there were some of the same amps sold under a different name.
@@jackpaynebassist Thank you for the quick response. It definitely has me confounded where the name are different but the pictures online look identical.
@@DrDannyMannGuitar the body was beat up, i stripped it and refinished it! I left some dings and did some light relic'ing to it after too. Nitro feels the best to me, but it's gnarly to put on!
Thank you for this video. I have a Schecter Corsair that has a 34 inch fret. Would you Recommend XL length Labella flat wound? Instead of standard length
It's one from ebay, they used to be like $20 - there are still many on there that are about $25-30. Just connect the +/- leads to the tip and sleeve of your 1/4" guitar cable!
Hi Jack, anyway I could get some help from you setting up my music equipment so that I actually know how to use it well. I spent $400 and then some and also bought presonous...but haven't had the chance to figure out how to do what you do. I just want to sing! If so, even though it probably wouldn't be in person, I'd definitely compensate you for your time.
Hi! What are the issues you're running into? Modern interfaces are pretty plug and play. In a nutshell, you should be able to 1. Plug in the Interface to your computer (USB probably) 2. Plug in your mic to your interface 3. Start up your DAW ( GarageBand, Ableton, Logic, Pro Tools, or other) 4. Enable your inputs on your DAW ( tell it to listen to channel 1 if your mic is on channel 1) 5. Hit record and start recording hits! There should be some fuller guides out there, but if you still want more direct help, just comment here!
Teledyne and Burr-Brown had early integrated op amps, largely for DC processing. The guys at Fairchild were building amplifier blocks in integrated circuit form. These were Class A, and not with differential inputs. @@jackpaynebassist
