Ferrari engine out... - Ferrari engined Alfa 105 Alfarrari build part 208

Подписаться 190 тыс.

Просмотров 33 тыс.

50% 1

For more details on Canberra Festival of Speed and to secure your tickets, visit canberrafestivalofspeed.com or follow us on social media @project_supercars
My favourite tools;
Knipex Pliers Wrench amzn.to/3RKtl1m
Power Probe amzn.to/3NYjV10
Grinding respirator mask amzn.to/37rBpwt
Weld through primer amzn.to/2wLTwyM
Bead roller amzn.to/2JzFlk5
The Shrinker Stretcher amzn.to/2Zr7QWe
3 in 1 Sheet metal press brake/guillotine/roller amzn.to/31Jbe08
Magnetic Plug Weld Tool amzn.to/319COZh
Become a Patron to watch the videos ad' free a day before everyone else
/ homebuiltbyjeff
Home Built Merch homebuiltbyjeff.storenvy.com/
Check out the Weldclass welders I use at www.weldclass.com.au/
Raceworks parts can be ordered here www.tiperformance.com.au/bran...
Find more Home Built by Jeff
/ homebuiltbyjeff
/ homebuiltbyjeff
Mailing Address;
Home Built by Jeff
PO Box 1520
Bowral, NSW 2576
AUSTRALIA
Music:
lukelukess.com

Авто/Мото

Опубликовано:

9 фев 2024

Ссылка:

Скачать:

Готовим ссылку...

Добавить в:

Мой плейлист

Посмотреть позже

Комментарии : 320

@mikecurrie1795 4 месяца назад

Fix the idle and it will run cooler at rest. Driving it should pull hot air out and help with cooling at higher RPM. Sitting still at over 2000 RPM is not a normal situation.

@1one3_Racing 4 месяца назад

It should sit static at 2000rpm and not overheat. 2000 is barely working for this engine

@tompayne4945 4 месяца назад

Absolutely agree. at least start with the fan upgrade before chopping the window. also if the idle problem is an air leak it may be running lean which would be both dangerous for pistons and hotter than normal fast idle.

@pascalverheijden5110 4 месяца назад

I totally agree, high idle is creating more heat than necessary. But in theory the cooling must be holding temperature in all situations.

@AW_DIY_garage 4 месяца назад

I would also suggest fixing the idle before making any drastic changes.

@joeracer302 4 месяца назад

An engine shouldn’t overheat sitting at 2000 rpm, and the solution to that problem isn’t “idle lower,” those are two separate problems! Lowering the idle doesn’t fix the overheating problems. That engine with proper heat management should be able to sit at high rpm for hours.

@chrispainter3590 4 месяца назад

while the engine is out please check for intake manifold leaks might be your high idle problem

@geraldstanley9692 4 месяца назад

Well, 1. run it with the bonnet open - if it still overheats then airflow due to engine compartment restriction is not your problem. 2. On the Davies Craig unit LOWER your setpoint to 60. Getting the pump to run continuously and the fans to come on earlier will help. I had exactly the same issue with my car. It’s a few buttons clicks on the controller, as you know, nothing to lose. (I also changed my fans and it didn’t help) 3. You owe the guy/gal who spotted the fan blade issue a beer! 😂

@Greatadventure124 4 месяца назад

Started to follow this project when I was 56 years old. Later this year I'm 60. Love your work Jeff. 🤣😅😅

@johndavidwolf1028 4 месяца назад

An intake air leak would explain high idle and over heating.

@nigspeed 4 месяца назад

A few thoughts. Is the engine correctly mapped ? A few louvers into the wheel wells . Get the running voltage to 13.7 v, i noticed only 12.6 on the DWP control. Water flow speed is very important, maybe try varying that , slower maybe better . I presume the with the DWP , you are not running a thermostat ? A small plate with a hole in it about the size of an open thermostat might also help control the flow . We have done that on a few racecars. Temporarily fit thermocouples to the inlet and outlet of the radiator, this will give you a good idea of the efficiency of your radiator and fan combination, then play with flow rates . Really hope you don't have to modify the bonnet. Loving the build.

@LobbyDaLobster 4 месяца назад

I like your louvres to the wheel well idea!

@glennarnold3970 4 месяца назад

spal fans are the way to go Jeff but if you can fit one 16 inch spal puller fan in they pull 2256 cfm the high idle will most likely be a vacuum leak or timing is to far advanced or when you hooked up the speed sensor input it maybe getting interference/feed back causing the idle to go high cheers glenn

@1darryloflife 4 месяца назад

Jeff the problem with most cooling systems is that there is NOT ENOUGH coolant flowing through the cylinder heads which is what leads to steam pockets and blown head gaskets. Having done many hundreds of hours of water pump work on engines I can guarantee that once you have established a good flow rate and pressure from the pump you will NEVER blow a head gasket or suffer overheating issues.

@nfisheremti 4 месяца назад

this is confirmed by the math. mass flow rate is more important than delta T. as a basic rule of thumb, the more flow you have the better your heat exchange rate will be. flow rate is affected by more than your pump on the wet side, and more than your fan on the dry side. The route the air and water take, as well as the resistance to flow (small openings, sharp bends, turbulent vs laminar flow etc) has a very large effect on cooling efficiency.

@1darryloflife 4 месяца назад

Which is why the pump needs to show that it is capable of providing the required flow rate through the cylinder head . The test should be performed before the pump goes onto the engine on a test bench or if installed then by taking the heater hoses flow and return into a bucket then primed and tested by flowing the coolant into a one liter container and timing it over the period of one minute. The result should be 10 liters per minute at 500 rpm. @@nfisheremti

@nfisheremti 4 месяца назад

I totally agree. It's a system. Pump needs to be matched to the required flow, radiator needs to be matched to the maximum heat load fan needs to be matched to the radiator.

@1darryloflife 4 месяца назад

The radiator should have room for the coolant to grow unlike radiators since the early seventies which have there tanks on the sides of the core. Water based coolants require in a naturally aspirated engine 1 liter of expansion room and if the engine is under pressure on the intake then the expansion room needs to be bigger of course, but crossflow radiators do not allow for expansion unless you have an expansion tank . It took manufacturers over twenty years to wake up to the dilemma of the crossflow radiator .@@nfisheremti

@maedmaex125 4 месяца назад

Davies Craig pumps are known for not producing much flow at higher pressure, their rated flow is at 0bar. DC EWP150 flows 150LPM at 0bar and only 45LPM at 0.45bar, in contrast Pierburg CWA200 flows 115LPM at 0.45bar and their bigger CWA400 does more than double.

@foxfixa 4 месяца назад

Surely the idle speed is the problem

@_Bram 4 месяца назад

I think you should try bigger fans and fix the idle before you start cutting holes. If needed, maybe some louvres in the bonnet window could be an option?

@HomeBuiltByJeff 4 месяца назад

I think that is the best way forward.

@trapjohnson 4 месяца назад

It would look cool as well. (just, angled to help with venting rather than intake, which ever direction that ends up being.

@scsv1st419 4 месяца назад

Shaped louvres like the F40 engine cover

@scsv1st419 4 месяца назад

Vacuum formed

@mawe42 4 месяца назад

I have a Porsche 924 with a turbo that does overheat like this, its the under hood temp that goes through the roof! I got some cheep thermometers that I placed under the hood to confirm that. Temp rises in slow traffic and goes down when speed goes over 30 kph. I have a huge fan, doesn't help. Actually raising the hood did help, it lets air out in slow moving traffic and doesn't mess up cooling at speed.

@marknolen7878 4 месяца назад

As others have said I’d be looking at getting the engine to idle first before looking at fan upgrade. Also with the engine clearing work to be done you may find this will help too.

@woodzy575 4 месяца назад

Love all the engine pulling content!!!

@killbill_1967 4 месяца назад

Hi Jeff, if possible get the largest diameter single electric fan you can fit. If the radiator is more square than rectangle a single fan will always work better. Two side by side fans are the way to go when you have a very wide rectangular radiator. The best fans are made by Spal and have curved blades rather than straight. Glad to see the build nearing completion and you will soon be able to enjoy driving it. I used to have a 1966 Giulia Super. 105 Series Alfas are well balanced and fun to drive.

@davelightfoot2913 4 месяца назад

Double check timing. Could cause overheating and fast idle.

@laurapitre5797 4 месяца назад

Do a smoke test and find that vacuum leak. Get your idle speed down and you will probably fix the overheating issue.

@cramiro71 4 месяца назад

Jeff, I had to put an auxiliary fan on my classic mini, I bought it and installed it. I don’t really use it much, but try this. By turning the fan the other way, the only thing you do is to blow air with there fins shape the wrong way, but it still blows air the same direction. For blowing in the other direction you have to turn around the fan and inverse polarity too. That way they blow the correct way and with the fins shape properly orientated. Sounds weird, but try it and you will see. I did it long ago, but I am sure I did it correctly.

@thechumpsbeendumped.7797 4 месяца назад

Is the overheating situation that much of a problem? How often are you going to be sitting still while the engine revs at 2.4 the idle speed? Get the idling speed sorted first then see if the fans are working, if they're not try the bigger fans you spoke of.

@HomeBuiltByJeff 4 месяца назад

It needs to be able to cool on a 40 degree day sitting in traffic with the A/C running ;)

@boastyy 4 месяца назад

Might be worth checking the maf sensors they might be covered in oil which might effect the idle.

@HomeBuiltByJeff 4 месяца назад

I didn't think of that but you would be spot on there.

@boastyy 4 месяца назад

@@HomeBuiltByJeff Might be something else like a vacuum leak but Its worth giving them a quick clean, good luck mate.😀

@jeff.5380 4 месяца назад

Before fitting higher cfm fans ,which wouldn't be a bad thing as you also have to take into consideration driving the car on a very hot summers day, then it will take even longer to cool down , try it with the car at its correct idle speed.

@ianbugden5753 4 месяца назад

If you are thinking of adding vents, I would vent the engine bay into the inner gaurds. I know you have re inforced this area but you could still put slots/ gills/ lovers in there and with a high flow fan that would assist in removing the air out of the engine bay whilst still keeping you bonnet lines intact.

@richardallen1629 4 месяца назад

On cooling, making sure the front of the radiator is sealed and getting air from the front may help more than you think. I had this issue with an engine swap and sealing around the rad and making baffles to direct the air from where I wanted it cured my overheating problem, though it was more an issue at speed for me. Top work!

@geniferteal4178 4 месяца назад

Seal the fan shroud to the radiator the it has to pull through. That small gap will let air leak in and make a big difference. I used a bicycle tire tube and some pop rivets.

@vmoney9106 4 месяца назад

As much as I want to see you work on the truck, I do like watching you get the Alfa running properly. You have great attention to detail and are a great problem solver. Thanks for entertaining us for so many years

@markwalton8644 4 месяца назад

Hi Jeff Can't say enough how good this Car looks😊 For the Cooling problems could youvent the air out of the engine via the vents below the windscreen. Maybe you could 3d print some elbows to fit through either side, I know that's for your ventilation but perhaps half the vents could be used to get the warm air out. This could give you the best of both worlds. No cutting and fitting hood vents and all the cool air to flow over the engine as well as out the bottom. Also some ventilation in the inner wings to help. I suspect unless you do this your just going to cause more turbulence under the engine and to much air pressure and the fans won'tdo much! The idle won't have helped your temps and a vacuum or manifold leak will be your most likely culprit!! A smoke down test probably the easiest way to find the culprit! It'd been to easy if the AlfaFerrari worked perfectly straight away, it's Italian of course there supposed to overheat😅😅

@danielhughes9556 4 месяца назад

Love your videos Jeff. Thanks for another one. Never thought I'd see the motor out again. I'm of the belief that your overheating problem is your high idle. Fix that first. May save you more headaches down the line. Probably just a vacuum leak

@eoinosullivan2636 4 месяца назад

Hi Jeff. I think start with the basics, While the cooling fan issues need to be resolved, if you haven't already, pull the thermostat (now that the engine is out) and check the operation of the thermostat. A temp probe on the input and output of the radiator would be great (or just use an infrared thermometer). I assume the water pump and coolant level are also okay, with no other leaks.

@chrisoo8998 4 месяца назад

Good stuff Jeff I'm sure you will sort it out. I can't wait until you start the truck build

@MuitoDaora 4 месяца назад

Move the horns out of way of the grill.

@Yosemite_Sam 4 месяца назад

The bonnet on my HK 327 Monaro would bulge significantly due to under bonnet air pressure over 120mph. That was one of the reasons they chocked them at the rear of the bonnet. Looking at your fans I am skeptical they are capable of moving the air required. Also it could be that the problem is one of water flow rather than air flow. Are you sure there is no water or air getting trapped in some area of the cooling system and significantly slowing water flow?. As suggested it would be wise to get it running properly too with proper engine mapping. Cars sitting in stationary traffic with reduced air flow don't overheat. Anyway removing the window in the bonnet will be a good test but as you said it should run cool even with the bonnet shut regardless of air flow. Good luck.

@SpankysHotRodsandCustoms 4 месяца назад

You will be happy you went back and touched up everything after it’s all done. Great video Jeff! -Spanky was here

@pashakdescilly7517 4 месяца назад

May I make a suggestion about the instruments? I like the idea of mounting all the four minor gauges in between the speedo and tach. The other two minor instruments will be easier to see, and be a nod to the Ferrari Daytona, as with the upholstery. I think you can put the warning lights in a strip above or below the gauges.

@WickedTRX 4 месяца назад

Jeff, maybe the cause of the high idle is the throttles, those throttle bodies rest at around 10% open, so to calibrate closed position you have to force them closed, either with you finger, or of if the Link ECU allows force them closed either 20% PWM.

@computiNATEor 4 месяца назад

Definitely get your car fully mapped before worrying about the cooling too much. The ECU tuning can have a huge impact on how hot or cold the car will run. I changed nothing except an ECU tune on my E39 M5 and the car started running way too warm. Flashed back to stock, instantly back to normal behavior. Turns out, manufacturers know what they're doing!

@benjamin4827 4 месяца назад

Agree, fuelling.

@1darryloflife 4 месяца назад

We set up an early Holden years ago with one of our thermostat relocation kits and a proper water pump and found we had to STOP the engine from losing any heat it had built up, so we found ourselves insulating the engine bay and building a metal plate that forced the air going through the radiator to exit under the car so that any heat built up by the engine was able to cocoon the engine in an envelope of heat . If an engine loses its heat then there is only one place it can retrieve that heat from andd that is the petrol tank so in fact once we encapsulated the engine we could successfully run a leaner "state of tune "without sacrificing HP.

@pedroequis9396 4 месяца назад

Look at fan blades with greater airflow. Curved blades may flow higher cfm's than flat square tips

@Dan40D 4 месяца назад

Please don't cut up the bonnet yet, try the bigger fans and fixing the idle first. Also trying to find a video that Taylor Ray did on getting heat out his drift car, had small high volume fans at the back of the engine bay that pulled air out, the helped a a lot.

@rjung_ch 4 месяца назад

Hi Jeff, that high idle is high, once fixed it should stay way cooler. One large fan should do the trick before you need to add slits on the hood, which wouldn't be a nice one to add or change, wouldn't be as pretty either imho.

@BaumgartnerRestoration 4 месяца назад

Any thought given to making sure that the heated engine bay air has somewhere to go... Perhaps a few fans to pull the air out of the engine bay and dump it into the wheel wells or under the car might be an option? A bigger radiator fan will only help if that air can escape.

@alman6581 4 месяца назад

Bigger fan will work and force air out though.......it will create a larger air pressure in the bay, and WILL lead to air escaping through shear air pressure build up. Some warm air may stay however so you need to ensure it has a way out...........and that likely means upstairs and not down. Maybe there is a way for you to get to the scuttle - but hope you never have oil in your evac air as that could get all over your screen. Just thinking like you - there are many ways to evac air without ruining your design thoughts.

@joshring8563 3 месяца назад

Air needs somewhere to go, fluid mechanics you can see at home. For instance: After a hot shower just opening the bathroom window, it will take ages to vent the steam, but open the door to the house as well and it rushes out much faster, if you do that but then also open other windows it goes faster still.

@guywilson187 4 месяца назад

Every step is closer to the finish line Jeff. Glad you're on top of the cooling issues now. I hope you get the opportunity to make a video of the Canberra event. It would be superb to see some drive-bys and onboards of the Alfarrari on full song as well as a bit of a walkaround to get a flavour of the whole event. Always enjoy your videos, keep it up. Cheers 😊

@dra911 4 месяца назад

Glad you like the comments from the peanut gallery 😅 ... Good to know we're sometimes useful! It wasnt always idling so high was it? Seems like you had it sorted for a moment. That high idle seems like something to sort out first before getting too serious with more changes... You could be closer to a fix than you think maybe?

@dianeaskew6432 4 месяца назад

Try evans coolant it may help lower temperature due to its high boiling point, I use it in my Honda cbr that likes to run hot at long red lights

@dubCanuck1 4 месяца назад

Glad to see someone finally using the flaps like OEMs.

@ronintres6757 4 месяца назад

that was a lot of work! But you are making progress and I am sure you will solve the problems. I would like to come and have a look at the car but it is a long flight from the Netherlands so I hope to see a summary of the car show, good luck 💪🏻🍀🙂

@seanalexander9531 4 месяца назад

Hopefully a bigger capacity fan will do the trick! Good pickup by the viewer about the fan blade reversal. Many a Mini owner has been caught by that too 😎🤷‍♀ If the throttle bodies are closing properly then the extra air is probably coming from a vacuum leak, or there's something funky going on with one of the components connected to the manifold (eg PCV valve, brake booster etc).

@GarageItYourself 4 месяца назад

Glad someone had the idea to check the fan blade orientation :) As for the new idle temps issue I'm with many otehrs that the engine bay doesn't have an easy flow path for the air. Sure modern cars have really full engine bays but I'd say they're designed so that the flow is directed under the engine. Your gearbox is also pretty tight in the tunnel so there's probably little airflow for engine heat that way. Unfortunately, if there's no way down or around the sides for the air to escape then through the bonnet is going to be the only option :( Speedo is using multiple pulses per revolution so this is one of the parameters the ECU/speedo needs to know so it can be calibrated properly. Diameter of the signal wheel is possibly another parameter required and then the diff ratio and tyres rolling circumference.

@alman6581 4 месяца назад

OK....... Jeff have you considered a duct at the base of the engine bay - near-ish the front of your engine to act as a venturi to remove the engine bay static air? I have 2x scoops one car (don't ask how many 🙂) that are either side; that grab passing air and push it up into the engine bay........It does add air pressure, but that also mean it increases the air volume change and takes heated air with it. I know its likely moving air isn't your problem, its that static air that is. Which leads me to another idea - and don't hate on me. I also have my version of a Roxster (its a real pig but coming right slowly) that I have hooked up my footwell duct to run to the engine bay. And yes seriously..........I am blowing Air Con air into the engine bay. Also means I can warm it up too. I know its cowboy, but actually works. Either way above could save those things I hate - cosmetic changes. I only want to do those I want, and not because I have too.......... selfless and unqualified car designer.

@mikenowland2739 4 месяца назад

Geez I worry about your watch band around those beautiful yellow panels 🫣

@hahaha9076 4 месяца назад

The equation for cooling fans for that size core would be out there. To make the most of the whole core you need a great shroud. If it's a standard size core you may be able to reverse search what model cars had them and buy the shroad and appropriate fan from a wrecker.

@DlStreamnet 4 месяца назад

Jeff - you are a hero my man. I love you to bits. Never stop please!

@claudiolebandit9408 4 месяца назад

So nice to see your commitment... Come on Jeff

@stevetrepanier4351 4 месяца назад

Jeff, when you look for a new fan, look for one with the biggest motor you can fit. Fans are often advertised with peak airflow at zero static pressure and this is very misleading. When the hood is closed, the pressure in the engine bay will increase, and put more load on the fan, causing the blades to slow. The reduction in pressure difference between the front of the radiator and the back will cause total airflow to drop. The fact your setup cools with the hood open is showing the small fan motors can't deal with this extra load and air flow is marginal even with low static pressure. A big fan motor will be less sensitive to this and keep blade speeds higher when the hood is closed. SPAL has several choices that fit with the same blade and housing family. Check their catalog. You have also not tested your worst-case cooling scenario yet, which is likely a hot engine after a spirited drive or highway drive coming to a stop in traffic on a hot day, so you will likely need more CFM in general across that rad. The biggest fans with the biggest motors you can fit are likely going to be necessary. I dont think improving engine bay venting will help enough; as there should be enough space around the crossmember/firewall. As a point of reference, I have two 12" SPAL VA10-AP50/C-61s on my 2JZ and they work very well. Best of luck!

@barryrodko4202 4 месяца назад

Hello. A few things, in this order.As others have said, get the idle to where it is supposed to be. The high idle is generating a ton of extra heat. Fit larger fans or a single , high CFM fan. Fit a shroud that ensures all the air is drawn through the radiator. If there are areas that the fan does not draw air you are essentially making your radiator smaller at rest. If it is still an issue, but I don’t think it will be, you could cut some louvers to let air escape through the wheel wells. F430s do this. Cheers. Barry

@rona1144 4 месяца назад

Consider the shape of the fan blades also, some are much better at moving air than just stirring it up. Looking forward to seeing and hearing it on the track!

@wmcwings4343 4 месяца назад

Hey Jeff, regarding the heating issue....did you notice the post earlier about using the electric water pump? Someone with more knowledge than me suggested that the electric water pump isn't circulating sufficient water volume to adequately cool the engine. Good luck.

@Tinker2006 4 месяца назад

Well the engine out process went well - so that has to be a win. I'd try fixing the idle issues first before doing anything else - having said that a Ferrari has slots either side of the window to let air out, so you may have to come up with something a bit like that (mesh either side of the window?) Looking forward to seeing everything back in the car and running. PS sorry won't be able to make the Canberra Festival of Speed, so if you could please do a great review of it ...

@tinman7551 4 месяца назад

Oh wow 😮 that sucks, but I’m sure it’s all part of the process? The car is so gorgeous 🥰 I can’t wait to see it on the road. Keep up the great videos 😊

@mackellmo1083 4 месяца назад

Love it! Feeling kinda nostalgic.

@andrewbaluk1663 4 месяца назад

interesting fix for cooling fans issue. i learn something every day!

@AmirPomen 4 месяца назад

A pair of "Ford focus RS" style hood vent would help big time extracting hot air from that tight engine bay! And just make sure u put it about 2/3 far back of the hood length... Also..high idle issue should be addressed as well... Look for air leaks from throttle body all the way to intake manifold mating surface on the cylinder head

@Andrew-vx2ls 4 месяца назад

Jeff, as mentioned below (some very good comments), first see if it is the lack of air change that is the root of the problem (drive without the bonnet etc). My guess is that you have a number of gremlins in addition to the air change issue. Assuming this is indeed the problem, heat openings in the inner wings and bonnet are the way to go (the fan is probably irrelevant).

@FenderRealm 4 месяца назад

Is the EWP circulating the water too fast? Maybe slowing that down will.allow it to cool more efficiently?

@Nasos56 4 месяца назад

Hi Jeff from Greece . My opinion is this : You should remove the pkexiglass on the top of the hood and put a metal grill so the air flows better through there . Thanks . Keep it up .

@gazzafloss 4 месяца назад

Wing nuts for all the engine fasteners would be helpful Jeff. Maybe some bonnet louvres will help to get some underbonnet heat out. A very pretty, colourful blouse Mrs Jeff, Southern Highlands autumn colours.

@fredrikassarsson1653 4 месяца назад

What I was taught is basically: overheating at speed=radiator problem Overheating at idle=water pump problem. Real world is slightly more complicated but I’ve seen plenty people comment on your electric waterpump and the fact that you can make changes there in its ecu and that’s where I would start. Water flow first and foremost. Keep it up! More widebody Alfa’s to the people. 👍 /Berlina GTAm

@patrickJC6510 4 месяца назад

Hello Jeff, on the previous video I told you about opening the plexiglass over the engine with louvers. Check the way Ferrari are doing louvers for many models and years. Hood vents are very useful to cool they are helping to pull air across the radiator. Good luck & Keep up the good work mate! From California 🇺🇸Godspeed!

@patrickJC6510 4 месяца назад

Check out the louvers on: Lancia Delta HF integrale 16v Evoluzione II

@eugenev6269 4 месяца назад

My race car was getting too hot with an EWP, fans are only for when you aren't moving so the real test is driving it. I used a hose clamp to squeeze the coolant hose & it ran cooler due to the restriction. To fix it long term I gutted a thermostat & put it back in as having no thermostat at all is what caused it to flow too fast. Unless your heater hoses are looped & recirculating the coolant in the engine it's generally too much flow not giving the coolant enough time to cool down in the radiator. Set the EWP to what it needs to be otherwise it will pump the water even faster.

@cam3002 4 месяца назад

As others commented, there likely is a correlation between the high idle and cooling. Suggest looking for a vacuum leak allowing unmetered air in. Also suggest monitoring air/fuel ratio to see if unexpectedly lean at idle. As well as timing should be on the conservative side, maybe 8 degree BTDC (just a guess on my part, do not know what that engine wants). Good catch on the fan blade direction. Don't recall you covering it but what are your oil temps? If oil temps are also too high, suggest focusing efforts on cooling the oil, it will in turn cool the rest of the engine.

@stuartstephens 4 месяца назад

Maybe adding louvers in the inner fender panels would help increase airflow through the engine compartment, without having to modify the hood or the clear plastic engine cover.

@boatbloke6701 4 месяца назад

Hi Jeff I really look forward to the weekly updates on this beast! A couple of observations.. If you can't get the engine to idle properly and the butterflies are truly shut then the engine must be drawing the air it needs to run from somewhere, so are you sure you don't have an air leak somewhere? And with the cooling issue I had an almost identical problem with my LS6 engined BMW E46. I chased water pumps, electric fans, made shrouds, even removed cylinder heads to see I had installed the gaskets properly, bought a vacuum filling device, fitted extra steam vents and much more... and it all came down to an airlock which I managed to purge almost by accident. Now of course I am not saying this is your problem but it may be worth a double check.

@rustyjdm1 4 месяца назад

I had the same issue with the fan no cooling enough, you need better and stronger fans, a bit costly but totally worth it.

@MrMightyytau 4 месяца назад

Lotus solved the issue of air bu putting holes in the engine bay above the wheels to reduce the pressure , and if you look at 427 cobras the have big vents in the guards . The other suggestion is remove the plastic engine cover

@tinnedanger 4 месяца назад

Think about it. 1st. 88 degrees C is not hot. The engine is running with pressure in the cooling system and the boiling point is higher. 2nd . Your car is stationary. When you are driving the natural vacuum under the car sucks the heat away. No car will run cool stationary. I have an AC cobra replica with a 393 cu in in it. The space around that engine is so small I have to remove the spark plugs from below and with a special spanner. So heat removal relies on movement. At traffic lights on a hot day the temp goes above 90 deg C . Not a problem. 100 is boiling at sea level and under pressure boiling point is 110 +. I've never been that high, even in traffic and stop start travel. Maximum so far is 95. ( don't worry, I still get a bit panicky with the heat gauge ha ha ) As for your computer settings for idle etc.. good luck. Another thing is distance between cooler radiators ( air con or oil ) and the radiator core. There must be at least 25mm gap between them to allow air flow to sort itself. That makes a giant improvement on cooling efficiency . Good luck.

@SidewaysKMP 4 месяца назад

What's the target coolant temperature for this engine normally? 100+ seems more normal for a modern engine.

@grenphelps7455 4 месяца назад

You say that modern cars are more sealed in, but modern engines are more efficient and have less metal on them and that doesn't conduct as much heat as metal, if you look at the 360 Ferrari, it's got a big airy engine bay, yes it under a glass window, but there's more space for the air to circulate, you might need to vent the bonnet (hood) you've essentially put a very hot engine in a very small box....

@mikaeljonsson4686 4 месяца назад

Love the gorgeous engine bay...😍🤩🥰

@knightime14 4 месяца назад

Would it be possible to actuate the bonnet window in a similar way to how the rear windows open, but under thermostatic control?

@TheRealFLX81 4 месяца назад

Ah, I had the same thought but now I see you beat me to it. :)

@georgebettiol8338 4 месяца назад

I'd suggest it would be far simpler if he installs a fan with double the capacity of the current two.

@knightime14 4 месяца назад

@@georgebettiol8338 I do agree, but a fan would be less cool.

@simonfitzgerald9743 4 месяца назад

I know you don’t like bonnet louvres, but what about some on the inner wings to let the heat out that way?

@tylerdurden4770 4 месяца назад

You will be able to see if you need additional ventilation in the engine bay by shimming the hood open. A number of race cars have done this in the pasts. Have you looked at push pull fans? Out when idling in traffic/ in when down the motorway.

@williamholmes9129 4 месяца назад

Some slots in the clear perspex engine cover worked for an F40 so a good homage to ferrari if necessary 👍

@jonathanohagan1349 4 месяца назад

So the engine goes in, then it goes out, in, out, let Jeff sort it out. Always interesting!!!.

@Torch4ya 4 месяца назад

Theory: the excess oil found in the intake is affecting your mixture, and the ECU is going hard to lean, resulting in higher RPM at idle and higher temps. Please redo the cam and crank seals while the engine is out!

@ottaviomazzola6710 4 месяца назад

could you imagine drilling holes on the bonnet plexy window , a bit like the Porsche Singer? maybe lined with a metal mesh to prevent water to go in under rainy conditions...

@willemjordaan4108 4 месяца назад

Hi Jeff! Alex of LSG (Legit Street Cars) bought an LS swapped Porsche 911 with serious cooling issues a few months back. Maybe you can watch that episode. I remember it was quite interesting how he solved it. Greetings from South Africa!!

@HomeBuiltByJeff 4 месяца назад

His was because the factory fans were not working as intended.

@shanehiggins3033 4 месяца назад

Jeff I'm sure you have already considered the window Remove the window for cooling Or put luvers in the engine window

@markevo1974 4 месяца назад

hi Jeff spray paint the beds on your center gauges to dim them

@EliteRock 4 месяца назад

Maybe use a smoke generator to reveal airflow?

@worldofrandometry6912 4 месяца назад

Would it be possible to put vents in the inner wings?

@timgosling6189 4 месяца назад

I can see extra vents out of the engine bay being the answer. The 360 has a pair of rads and fans that are probably the same area you have but the engine is surrounded by space there are vents all along the side of the lid, one behind the gearbox in the diffuser and another in the rear panel.

@robbell4339 4 месяца назад

A slot in the bonnet before the window will aid both air extraction and reduce front end lift by feeding the radiator exhaust air into a low pressure that concentrates over the front third of the bonnet. That this also will also reduce drag is a bonus! 👍

@2gr33n 4 месяца назад

You can argue that "there is plenty of air flow" but the proof is that opening the bonnet results in cooling.. Regardless of actual flow - you have a massive heat source in the engine bay - so there isn't enough flow (at a given pressure) of the hot air trapped in teh engine bay. It will site there regardless of an undertray... If you want a vent that doesn't affect aesthetics, that will also work in motion because the wheel arches tend to form a low pressure zone, add a vent from engine bay into top near top of the wheel arch.

@Roberto-oi7lm 4 месяца назад

I was going to say the same thing. The engine heat is transferred to the coolant and that heat is rejected via the radiator but it's only effective with air flow over the radiator fins. No matter how fast you drive and/or no matter how large your electric cooling fans, without sufficient airflow, you won't get enough cooling for a high out put engine like yours. The key, as pointed out above, is that you need a place for the air flowing through the radiator to escape. In other words, the air exiting the radiator can't just dump into a sealed box and that's nearly what your very tight engine bay is. It looks great, but it's not very good for cooling. You need a significant pressure differential across the radiator; i.e. you don't want high pressure behind the radiator and that means a rather large exit area so the hot air has some place to go. Can you vent the air out via the wheel arches or perhaps via vents on the sides of the fenders (wings?) or even the top of the hood (bonnet). Bottom line: Cooling is as much about the cooling air exit as it is about the cooling air inlet. I had a Ferrari 360 Modena with the same engine and it was cooled very nicely with two rather small radiators in the front but it had rather large exits on the side of the bodywork for the hot radiator air to exit just forward of the front wheel. It never overheated.

@lanceboyle4255 4 месяца назад

Vents into the wheel wells would give the hot air a place to go and preserve the smooth appearance appearance.

@hansjansen5224 4 месяца назад

Agree with comment above. Don't make drastic changes till you get the idle back to the 900 goal. Not sure one large fan will be better then 2. I suspect you will get better core coverage with 2 then one.

@1one3_Racing 4 месяца назад

The only good thing about a Sunday night is a Jeff update!

@TECsta76 4 месяца назад

Ironically I was going to mention mimicking the Ferrari 360’s rear window on the hood, that would add a ton of vents to the glass feature..

@johnmcdonnell81 4 месяца назад

Don't slot the bonnet window if you can avoid it. If you really need to expel/vent under bonnet heat, how about a a hole in the inner wings to the wheel arch near the exhaust manifolds? Whatever, hope you get everything resolved.

@billweston6579 4 месяца назад

What about louvers in the sump guard? Just a thought. Also, you could put a very sensitive air pressure probe in the engine bay and move it around to see what is stopping air flow.

@SchuKingR 4 месяца назад

Take a look at your base idle position in the link software. I think it's too much. If that's too high, it's very difficult for the link to get to the target. Idle base should be relatively low with drive by wire. Mine is like 4 or 5% Maybe you also have some corrections going that are pushing the base position higher.

@benjamin4827 4 месяца назад

Too tight in there. Slot inside wheelwell fenders? Does circulation pump run-on, when fans do? 2. Can you slow circulation pump volume? Too fast, no heat-soak, poor heat exchange, causes overheating. More cfm is not always desirable, air needs to go somewhere, can cause high pressure cavitation inside engine bay, and actually hinder hot air escape. More and faster, is not always your friend, in thermodynamics. O ya, 🇿🇦🏉🌎🏆😊

@gunnarorn8655 4 месяца назад

As an owner of a 360 Spider 2002 I have the same problem, overheating at idle speed when standing still to long time. For me the only solution is to turn on the heating with the fan at full speed. On the other hand when driving at legal speed on the highway it is hard to reach full temp. Obviously the only solution for me is to live with it as is.