Hello and welcome This episode i put the fiesta back together but now will not run so i take it apart again to check the timing but still not running this might be a big problem
This should of been so easy and quick to resolve, just loosen the cam sprockets bolts, turn the cams so the plate slides in, check the lower pin, then do the cam bolts up. That’s it…..!
@@ResurwreckAutosUK you said you’d done loads? Your supposed to loosen the cam bolts anyway, put the belt on and tension, check plate and pin then do the bolts up. I’m putting this for anyone watching/ reading tbh.. not have a go. 👍
what happened was when you put the timing belt on your slack was in-between the top front cam sprocket and the crank sprocket when you released the tensioner it rotated both cam sprockets backwards one tooth as it tensioned up the belt you need to repin crank detension and remove the belt from the cam sprockets turn them both clockwise slightly till the cam locking plate locks in position refit belt onto cam sprockets trying to get any slack between the rear cam sprocket and tensioner then retension cam belt remove all pins rotate crank at least 4 complete rotations then check all pins and locking plates still fit back in
Thank you for your video Mark. I am no mechanic and i have a ford fiesta mk6 which needs the timing belt renewing, no offence Mark but watching your video as put me right off doing my timing belt, but you kept your cool and tried. If that was me i would of lost it and ending up throwing my tools everywhere haha. I know this video is 12 months ago, but i hope you had a nice bank holiday weekend with your family. I have decided to buy the parts and pay a proper mechanic to do mine for me. Going to ask around for a quote and try get a mobile mechanic so i can make sure a new belts get fitted.....
Hi a few months ago I said you need to crack off the cam bolts as in the ford technical manual the reason being is it needs to tension equally all round the belt I seen this happen before and it knocks timing out and it bent valves from not been much out your best option is a cylinder compression test this will rule out bent valves. But I do hope you get it sorted 👍🏻
Totally remove the belt and start again ,find tdc , lock crank with pin , lock cams with plate . then undo both cam pulleys . fit belt , tension , then re-tighten up the pulleys . hope that helps
Had same problem on exact same car, the engine actually seized because we were starting it frequently, ended up getting second hand engine. Get timing correct. Lock the two cams at the top. You will get it sorted.
22:54 I don't get it. Why don't you just move crankshaft against the blocking bolt, loosen the camshaft pulleys, readjust the camshaft so the plate can get it, and then tighten the camshaft pulleys? All should be in place then. (you don't need to take off the belt)
Really love your attitude when things don't quite go to plan. If that had been me spanners, hammers and anything else within reach would have been launched. Excellent video as always, enjoy your Easter weekend.
As much as I credit you for doing timing, I’d just be doing a service and selling these on with no proof of timing change. It’s about making Money and losing days and cash isn’t a good business model
I think you need to take the belt off, and adjust the bottom end again. I wouldn't keep trying to run the engine until you remove the belt make the fine adjustment, good luck
Top dead center after the compression stroke. Its possible you might be seeing top dead center on #11 after exhaust stroke. Possibly damage to the crank sensor, cam sensor, or both?
Hi mark Loosen the bolts holding the cam pulleys just enough to let the cams turn within the pulleys now fit the locking plate back into the slots in the back of cams using the flats on the cams wher you used the spanner in todays video now set the bottom crank stop as you normally do Torque the 2 bolts holding the cam pulleys to the correct torque Now torque the crank pulley to the correct torque Refit all covers etc should start ok
Hi mark this is what I would do lock the crankshaft with pin then un loosen the cam shaft bolts then put the plate in the end of the crankshaft then re tighten camshaft bolts before you re tighten just make sure the crankshaft has not moved I will have a look at the nm for camshaft bolts if you need them
You have just described the correct way the timing belt should be done, camshaft pulley should be counter held while bolts are torqued to 65nm. Totally agree timing is out.
Cheers Tony 👍 if he doesn't do it this way you will find that if you move the timing one tooth either way it still will not be timed properly the pully on the camshaft are probably a couple of millimeters out but that's all it takes
You need to lock the camshafts on these duratec engines, remove the cam pulleys, thread the new bolts in (you must replace the bolts with the ones from the kit) and leave the cam pulleys slack because they're floating. Tension the belt AND THEN tighten up the cam pulleys. That is how you take the slack out. With floating pulleys, its not always possible to take the slack out at the cam end without loosening the pulleys because they can be half a tooth out and you'd never get the tension right.
Hi Mark, try not to let it bug you over the long weekend, just chill, relax and enjoy time with the family. Come back next week refreshed and with a clear mind. Do a square one timing setup from scratch with the timing belt completely off and reset up.
Hi mate I can only think of the fuel pump or crankshaft sensor just don't let it play on your mind this weekend just injoy your weekend you will sort it out on Tuesday 👍
Hi bud, you'll definitely have to remove the belt again to set it up on timing, it looks like its only a tooth out, so it shouldn't have hit any valves, but you'll need to remove the belt then reset timing and itll be 100% 👍
No mate absolutely no reason to remove the belt so long as the bottom pin is in place,then all you need to do is loosen both cam wheels off then the put a spanner on the camshafts then turn each cam shaft until the locking plate slides into the slots easily then re tighten the cam wheels,job done.
Then u have to turn the engine manually two turns and check if the two camshafts and piaton top dead center align together if they allign then u are good to go good luck
Mark don’t stress we’ve all been there it sounds like it’s still a tooth out as other comments advise remove everything lock it all up and refit belt As the other guys have said before tensioning the belt crack off the top pulleys they are a interference fit with no key way then re torque Have a great weekend mark
My plan would be enjoy your long weekend with the family drink beer and eat Easter egg , but have Cadbury egg not cheap egg , then get the guy up the road to look Tuesday , great plan I think 👍👍👍👍
You're a tooth out, painful to watch. You didn't remove the belt when you tried to rectify it so the you're still out between the cams and the crank, there was no need to remove your crank pulley bolt again. Lock the cams, remove the belt, lock the crank against the pin and then put the belt back on
This happens when you least expect it, even to someone who's been doing it for years. At least it didn't take you long to figure it out with the Eagle eyes of a subscriber spotting it
U slacken cam pulleys then bring engine around till it locks crank on pin then turn cams till locking bar fits across cams then tighten cam pulleys up and reset should be good
Morning mark I noticed you removed all the plug leads in your previous video 🤔I’m just wondering if you have them in the correct order now you have refitted them🤔it’s an easy mistake I’ve done it in the past, 🤞🏻
I recently did my timing belt on a mk4 transit locked the pump ,crank and cam.fitted the new belt,turned it by hand a couple of times reinserted the pins and the cam looked like it was a tooth out.anyway started it anyway and it fired straight up.20,000 mikes later still no problems
Hope all goes well have a look on rob nd Chris’s site they had something similar with a Volvo it’s a new vid c60 or c70 so you’ll not have to search much good luck and I think you’ll need to do a compression test in case you’ve bent a valve 👍🏻
your one tooth out on the belt..By rotating the cam youve just slackened the belt which will be taken back up on cranking and throw the timing back out. When fitting the belt you need to start at left cam and hold belt in place working your way around clock wise keeping the belt pulled tight.
If u dont loose the camshafts bolts to fit the belt u will never be able to get it aligned properly and always make sure u put the cranckshaft timming pin and locked in place to the top dead center😊
Hi mark do compression check as it might of bent valves. Hopfully not. You should of lined the cams up like you did first time. Then set crank after loosening pully bolt as you prob got grank right now but knocked cam timming out now tho. First job is compression test
As I said in the last video you forgot a very important stage you are supposed to undo the camshaft bolts then remove the timing tensioner pin then do up the camshaft bolts you have probably bent the valve just do a compression test
hope to get it sorted you may have do compresion test hope you have bent a value if was a sensor it will bring a fault put nothing came up but best is remove belt and start again have good weekend then start all charge up and clear mind
Do a compression test to see if you have touched a valve, these wee 16v engine tolerances are minimal when timing is out so valve to piston contact is a possibility. You may have just nicked a valve or 2, thats all it takes.
Remove the belt before trying to turn it🤦♂️, Start fresh pin it whip it off move the top once belts off, Start it on the jack wouldn’t keep building it back up!
U don’t actually need the rocker cover of u can just take cylinder 1 spark plug out and put a long t handle torx down the spark plug hole and turn the crank till top dead centre then tipex the the marks on the cam pulleys then turn it back put the timing pin in the crank and turn it until it stops if it hits the pin and any too dead centre and marks on cam pulleys line up the it’s top dead centre and timed. That’s how I do it and it works for me 👍
Doesn't work with ford's no keyway on crankshaft need to lock crank with pin and straight bar across cams many a guy used tipp ex on them and blew engines
Look at live data on the maxisys for camshaft and crankshaft data. Check the spark and plugs are on the right coil pack sockets get the firing order to check this.. it do3snt sound serious
just went back + watched previous episode, you had slack on the r/h side of belt. with the tools in top+ bot, that belt must be tight on driven [r/h] side. you are at least one tooth out. set to tdc by screwdriver height, take belt off + start again. it should be quite hard/ fiddly to get the belt on tight on r/h side, this is the norm. fingers crossed, as there's not much room for error with those valves.... professional techs have a bottle of tippex + strong clothespegs in their toolkit [holds the belt in place on sprockets], + dont normally loosen the top pulleys, less things to go wrong the better, cos we aint allowed to fkup...
Don't keep running the engine. Go home, relax get a second opinion. Enjoy your family time. Next week all will be well. Frustrating for you. I know you will sort it out 👍👍
I just did the belt on a 2017 Ford Feista SE non-turbo. Unfortionatly the cams and crank moved a little while I was doing all this. I manually moved each cam to TDC, installed the crank pin, moved the crank until it hits it. I'm assuming I should be good to got to put it all back together. Would appreciate ur input
Hi did you remove the cam cover and fit the back plate that sits on the head and holds the cams in place if you didn’t I definitely suggest you do this sounds like the bottom end is timed now but definitely fit the plate on the cams
I did not remove the valve cover. I removed the timing belt, manually turned each cam crank with ratchet to the top dead center mark, and then installed the X tool to keep them in place. Now I installed the pin at the crank and used a ratchet to bring it around until it hit it, clockwise. The belt is on now and when I turn the crank completely around manually the two cams continue to come up top dead center.
I marked both cam gears at top dead center, installed rhe crank pin and moved rhe crank around until it tapped it. I did rotate the engine 3 or 4 times before I installed it and they both kept coming back top dead center so I felt good about it and installed the X tool. I then thought about it and figured it better to be safe than sorry so I went ahead and removed the valve cover just to male sure and they lined up. Put it all back together, started it up and seems good to go. Thanks for the response.