simple and useful. i was surprised that you didn't simply zero (tare) the scale after placing the tank and connection hose on the scale, before starting the fill to ease the math.
I want to read how much propane is left in the tank I don't want just a straight tare. You would only want to tear the tank if you were sure it's 100% empty.
I don't believe it's necessary to purge any AIR in the hose, as some would have you believe. Propane gas is heavier than any air in the line and would be forced out as gas vapers mix with any air through the bleeder screw. When the tank reaches the 80% full level, a jet of propane will burst strongly through the jet hole and the OPD float will cut off the flow. The service tech (the dude at the fill station) will, or should switch off the pump. A 20 pound tank should take about 4.3 gallons. A 30 pounder for twin tanks on an RV should be about 7 something gallons each. I know because I fill hundreds of these tanks every working day. I'm certified to fill all sizes of tanks folks bring to be filled. 100 pounders are the worst because they are so heavy even Swartzeneggar couldn't lift them. They'll take around 25 gallons, give or take. A lot of folks just want them " topped off". A lot of people don't know a nearly full tank and think it's near empty. It will take around .8 of a gallon for example. They don't know that the liquid to gasification ratio is 270 times. Do the math -- 4.3 times 270. But a near empty tank will get very cold to the outside and may have frost on it. The liquid boils at minus 42 degrees, drawing heat from the ambient air surrounding it causing frost to form. They wonder why they get many hours making sure mama is warm on a camping trip. Propane is marvelous stuff. It's also dangerously explosive if not treated properly or treated carelessly. Even those little 1 pound tanks can kill you if they rupture. They can burn down a fishing shack in less time than you can get the hell out. If they leak and fill your hunting rig with gas and your bro - in - law lights a cig , you will be on your way to the hospital with severe burns and with a blown up van. Just stating facts, good people. Cheers, y'all. Bob
The most useful video on this topic, Thank You. With Covid-19 going on and having a lot of our customers waning to dine outdoors I have been filling 7 to 10 tanks a day and usually don't have the time to go get them filled by weight which saves me a bit and I can't start the day with tanks partially full. tanks So I pay $25 a tank if I make it before the hardware store closes or I end up having to pay over $35 for an exchange at the Mobil Station (small wealthy city where Mobil is the only place that sells lotto, tobacco besides Walgreens, gas is almost a $1 higher unless you drive 20 minutes and so on). So I have i believe it's 750 gallon propane talk full that used to be connected to a generator that ran a small hotel and restaurant we got a new one and hooked it up to our underground tank leaving me with a huge tank in the back yard doing nothing so this seems simple enough and would save me a bit of money, time and so on. Thank You
Make sure you let people know when putting that on the liquid extraction valve that it checks or they could get hurt or killed. If that does not check DO NOT REMOVE!!! That is liquid propane and will burn you. And make sure they don't do this to a tank they do not own. I'm a service tech for a propane company and people can get into big trouble messing with that.
When you bought the larger tank, did you have to specify anything special with the fill/extraction liquid service port? Trying to determine if all tanks 150 gallon and above have this port
That would be a good question for Nash Fuel, this 450g is the standard tank I got for my house from the gas company and it had what I needed. As far as I can tell any stationary tank has a liquid draw line because that is the only way to empty the tank completely before they move it.
Great video, and thanks for sharing. 👍 Would you be able to give us a link to the hose kit you use to fill the 20 gallon propane tank, or at least the part number ? thanks 👍
I don't want to because I don't know your specific needs or the exact connector you have. What I did was just send a message to NashFuel on their website or on eBay with a picture of the connectors on the top of my propane tank. that way you can be 100% sure you're getting what you need.
I definitely could. It is as simple as it gets. Talk to Nashville to get the right device screw the device onto the tank and you're good to go. The only thing I had to do was open the rubber plug that covers the liquid draw line and screw the device on. I'll think about doing a video in the future to show the threads and valve and everything a little better.
@@FLOUNDERMILKSHAKE nope. You screw it on with the valve open so that it's really not doing anything until you close the valve which opens the tank. So screw the device all the way on with the valve up and once it's all the way on screwing the valve downward opens the tank.
Just bought the Nash Fuel kit like yours, my problem is did you loose propane on the initial install of the valve on the liquid draw port on your home tank? I got maybe on thread down before propane came spraying out, was afraid to continue and removed it. Thanks for the video.
The screw on top of the valve needs to be back all the way off. There's a plunger on the valve that comes down and makes contact and pushes open the check valve of the propane tank. That valve needs to be all the way up so that that plunger does not make contact with the check valve. You should be able to screw it on completely without having propane come back at you. There's nothing particularly dangerous about having a little propane come out. Just think about ignition sources and that propane will pool at the lowest spot and you'll be fine.
I would love to see the whole process. Especially connecting to the 500 gallon tank. When I connected to my 500 ga. tank, I had a lot of propane come out until I got it screwed all of the way on. Then I tried filling my cylinder for 10 minutes and got just a little bit in. I tried with the pressure screw open and closed. I have plenty of propane coming out of the hose prior to connecting to my cylinder.(I quickly opened the valve to check) but wasn’t too successful. Thanks
@@alexanderlarsen4628 - my valve does not work the same way as yours (I believe) I don’t have a plunger that makes contact with the wet line. Instead, the act of connecting the valve to the tank creates a lot of LP spraying out. It’s the same whether the valve is all if the way in or out. If it turned out all if the way (open) it fills the hose and sprays out. If the valve is closed, it sprays out but does not fill the hose. The valve is a good 2 inches inside the fitting. The only thing my valve controls is the hose to the 20 lb. getting LP or not. I’m guessing you screw your valve in to get LP flow to the 20 tank? I have to screw mine out to do that. In or out, my valve does not make contact with the check valve. I definitely like your valve better if that is the case.
@@Larsenvlogs The bleed screw on fill tank allows a bit of gas to escape. that allows for liquid to flow into fill tank. (slightly lower pressure in fill tank encourages flow). When liquid in fill tank begins to reach top your get some liquid spattering out. STOP then as need vapor space for liquid expansions when hot out.
@@pablopicaro7649 this is also my understanding, splattering=~80%. I was under the impression you were saying to close the bleeder imminently after getting flow started.
@@pablopicaro7649 All the new tanks have over fill protection valves (OPV) and you can't overfill. www.rvrepairclub.com/video/rv-propane-tank-overfill-protection-device-identification-007974/# I'm going to see I can get that valve put on my liquid port and get set up for filling my own. I'm always standing right there by some kid at a gas station filling them anyway.
I've tried this with my tank and I'll get liquid to come out the bleeder on the tank but the tank is no fuller than I started. Any ideas why that might be?
Hmmmm .... followed all steps and for the first minute or so, I hear a slight gurgling sound inside the big tank, but my little 20lb tank isn't getting heavier. Tested to make sure propane is going from the 20lb tank to the release valve, also the other direction. Not sure why it isn't working/filling? 10* F.
@@shootinjh yeah you definitely want to make sure the little tank has been outside as long as the big tank. Some 20 pounders don't have the right filling valve and just won't work. If all else fails try a different tank but temperature of the two tanks is crucial.
When adding the kit to the draw down port did you have to do that on an empty tank, or can it be added to a “Full” tank? Or said another way, can you add the kit to the draw down port on a full tank?
@@Larsenvlogs thanks for the reply! It looks like my tank has this Chek-Loc Excess flow valve installed on it 7590U www.regoproducts.com/lpgproductpdfs/7590u_7591u.pdf I’m assuming something like this would work with it. www.ebay.com/itm/193214699341
@@n3tn0tw0rk I believe that will do it for you. Take pictures and ask that eBay profile you just linked, my friends over at Nash Fuel will know exactly for sure which you need.
I just watched another video on this topic that had the same misconception in it as this one, so I will correct you here, by simply copying and pasting over what I wrote in the last video. A lot of people, including some chemical engineers I know, don't understand propane tank filling. Contrary to your intuition, no bleeding of the so called air space is needed!!! That's because there should be no air in the tank. It is all propane. Gas propane on the top and liquid propane below it. As you fill the tank pressure on the gas phase increases which causes it to condense to liquid. Much different than having a non-condensable air layer in there that would continue to increase in pressure and prevent complete filling. See next post.
I don't do it to let air out of the tank. I do it to facilitate movement of liquid into the tank. By letting a very small amount of vapor out you create a lower pressure inside the small tank and allow propane to move more freely. If you don't open the vent it will not fill all the way maybe less than half depending on outside temperature,tank temperature, and how full your main tank is. Normally when you get your tank filled somewhere they're using a pump and in that scenario you don't need to open the vent, pump will do the work for you.
Anyone have problems filling a 20lb tank in Winter?? Got a 200 gallon tank completely full (actually read 95% in summer, reading 80% now), got basically the same setup as you have in the video, looks identical actually. Filling worked fine in summer. Tried to fill some 20lb tanks over the course of the last 2 days. Can't get anything. I hear it flowing for just a couple seconds, and that's it, nothing. And nothing in the tank. Can it be simply because its too cold outside?? Its single digits plus windchill. If so, any solutions??? I know propane tank heaters exist, but ridiculously expensive ($350 - $600+) for 'service' tanks. Saw people using electric blanket from walmart for 20lb'ers, but that doesn't help me with a 200 gallon...
There needs to be a pressure differential. the filler tank (200g) needs to be warmer then the tank that is getting filled. I would suggest some boiling water. keep all electric stuff out of the equation. A little goes a long ways as to how fast you can fill a tank. I'm still waiting for my kit as Nash has some crazy long wait to ship these kits. I did an experiment with a forklift bottle on an rv. At first nothing would transfer or stupid slow. I boiled some water and it filled the rv tank lightning fast it was around 5 degrees out. In the summer its less of an issue cause your fill tank sits in the sun and your empties can be cooled with water or left in the shade prior to filling thus the easier filling. The forklift bottle i used took one tea kettle of boiling water to basically dump all of its liquid propane into the rv tank took less then 5 minutes once applying the boiling water.
@@rhettsanborn621 yeah, the other day I let a tank sit out there for close to an hour. It had a little bit in it, but that was all. I know there has to be a pressure differential. Hadn't thought about boiling water, good idea. Yesterday the sun was out, so I covered the supply tank with a large piece of black rubber roofing for about an hour and half. I then took the 20lb tanks outside, and packed them in snow for around 20 min or so. I tried to fill one tank again, and this time it filled completely within a few minutes even though it was still only about 5F out. So I guess it was enough to get the job done. Filled about 5 tanks. Glad to get them filled, as I needed them for the shop heater. was pretty cold in there.
The tank you're filling needs to be as cold as the main tank if for instance it was inside or even 10 20° warmer than the main tank the transfer will not want to happen. Also are you opening the bleed screw which will vent gas out of the tank allowing for liquid to pool at the bottom.
@@Larsenvlogs yeah I knew the tanks I'm filling needed to be cold for pressure reasons, and yeah I opened the bleed screw when attempting to fill. I first just tried sitting the tanks outside in the cold for a while. But the supply tank was just so cold that day it didn't help, some of which was probably because of the windchill as it made the windchill temps around -25f from what the news was saying. But warming the supply tank a bit, and packing the fill tanks in snow did the trick. Plus that day there wasn't much if any wind and the sun was out, even though it was still about the same actual temperatures. In anycase, learning experience. Now I know more about issues and solutions on filling tanks in cold weather :-) ~Thanks!
Open the bleeder on the small tank to vent propane gas (and pressure) during the transfer. That's where the liquid flow pressure differential comes from. Yes, you waste some gas, so open the bleeder just a little. It works wonderfully and fills the little tank PDQ.
you still need to know the tear weight to know what the total should be unless you fully empty the tank.. Plus this will only fill tanks to around 80%.. which is the same as many companies full their tanks. and as far as my supplier he cares less than you. they've filled me up many times.
When a guy gets the proper fill hose and valve set up on the big tank, is the propane company gonna get pissed next time they come to fill ? Seems like they don't want people filling there own tanks , like it's illegal or something
Nope it's not illegal in my case but I won't give legal advice to anyone else. One thing to consider is if it is the propane company's tank they have the right to tell you they don't want you to do it. It would be for insurance reasons on their end. One solution is simply buying your own tank and then they can't tell you what to put on it. I do not own my tank and put it on without asking they've never had a problem. If in doubt on your own tank no one will question you.
Don’t squeal on yourself. What are they going to do take their tank back, as if there aren’t 5-10 different gas companies to choose from! I wish more consumers would realize they hold all the power.
Normally people only fill to 80% for safety I guess. (eyeroll) but also it fills slower and slower as it gets closer to completely full and sometimes I get impatient.
I can't find my order anymore but you're better off just emailing or calling Nash fuel and asking what your need. There's quite a few different connections. I just sent them pictures and measurements and they were able to send me the correct item. Always best to do with that way versus trying the wrong part.
Yes everything there Nash fuel sells on eBay and their website. I don't really want to provide a link because there are many different kits many different connections and many different adaptions. What you should do is take measurements and send pictures to Jerry at Nash fuel. www.nashfuel.com/.
Alex, what scale do you have and use there? Do you get instructions with the kit? Also, when you first got the Liquid Transfer Shutoff Valve and installed it to the tank do you leave the Liquid Transfer Shutoff Valve open until it is fully seated on the Liquid Withdrawal Tank Valve then shut it off? Still trying to figure all of this out. I appreciate the help!
Shut you leave the valve shut and then just slowly tighten it down. There's no instructions probably for liability purposes it's fairly straightforward. I use a heavy duty postage scale that reads up to 200 lb. Could have gone with something cheaper.
@@Larsenvlogs thanks for the quick reply. this video @15:16min through 18:50min ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-q82BKnrk8vI.html says to leave it open when you first install it so I am still confused. Also, is it ok to take it off and on or should I leave it hooked up? thanks for the help, I just ordered one and want to make sure I do it safely and do it right. again thanks for the help for someone who has actually went through all the steps and used it.
@@letyourlightshine2800 after thinking a little more would I remember is you want to unscrew the valve as in upwards before installing. that way it doesn't open the tanks valve until it's fully seated. Once it's fully seated you can screw the valve downward to open it it's a little counterintuitive. I would definitely leave it on and not take it off.
@@Larsenvlogs Sounds, good I will do as in that video then. I am sure others like me will be wondering the same thing in the future as they are thinking of getting and using one of these. appreciate the advice and help. take care!
There is a lot of missing information here to describe how to do this safely. And for homeowner purposes there is no safe way for it to be done. People need to understand the danger involved in tapping that liquid withdrawal valve and the proper way to do it. This is an example of a little knowledge being a dangerous thing. The potential for massive damage and fatal injury is way too high for untrained individuals to attempt themselves.
There's nothing at all dangerous here. It's osmosis and the exact same tap the local guy at the gas station fills up tanks for people with absolutely no training. Maybe you should start a campaign writing to each and every rural gas station that taps a larger tank to fill 20 pounders.. If this scares you, don't do it, but many thousands of people have found it helpful and were going to set themselves up one way or the other. At least now they have a little more information on where to get the correct equipment.
