Hey Davin, my first question to you.. I see you use click type torque wrenches and I go to school where the preferred wrench is the newer electronic one. But me personally I've grown to like the click types.. whats you preference on either wrench?
I inherited 5 Buick Riviera's from 63-66 when my father passed. This was awesome to watch and I now have a better understanding of the nailhead. Thank you thank you thank you!
I think I speak for most of your audience when I say we LOVE these long videos. I personally can't get enough of it, and this guy is very confident and has a great camera voice.
Amazing work you put in Davin. I really enjoy the way you go through each step and explain everything about it. At the same time I really enjoy the production Hagerty is making.
When you are adjusting the pushrods, why do you preload them with the full turn of the adjuster ? Surely you want a little clearance between the tappets and the cam to prevent constant contact and wear, and also when the engine gets hot, keeping the valve off its seat ?
You are truly a snake.!!........I was ready to jack audio up to eleven, then you pulled the plug.....Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. What a beauty ( I'm talking about the motor here) and super build job. I could sit and look at this all day. Thanks for sharing, i think. Stay safe and keep up the good work. 👍🏎😎
Not a real fan of the time lapse. I enjoy seeing step by step how the engine is put back together and listen to your expert knowledge and tips. All those extra bits you tell us are eagerly listened too. I would like to rebuild an engine some day, but at the moment I just enjoy watching how it’s done. Well done! 👍
I believe the mains are torqued wrong. The top threads appear to be finer on the studs than the bottom threads. The factory torque specs are based on the coarser thread, and the leverage of the finer thread on the top of the stud is greater and 110 foot pounds becomes a lot more clamping force than was intended. Possible block/main cap distortion or even cracking. ALWAYS take into consideration when you change thread pitch how much you torque the fastener. It can be figured out mathematically with the threads per inch numbers.
I want YOU to rebuild an engine for me. You know exactly what you’re talking about and is very formal about it. I just wish I had the money lol. I have a 4 bolt main 350, for my 67 c10 project. I know everyone that they didn’t have the 350’s in the 67, but it’s either that or a 283 which I want to be able to have more powa baby.
It was designed as a torque monster not for high rpm as it was used in heavy cars with the primitive Dynaflow transmission. Buick didn't use the more efficient four speed Hydramatic transmission as Pontiac and Oldsmobile did.
Checking main bearing clearance with the old main cap bolts then installing an ARP stud kit with moly will give you a different main boring housing dimension.
Is most of this in slow-mo? You kind of look like a guy disarming a bomb. Ok I watched the time-lapse. Now I get it. So worth it! That was beyond cool.
I'm old school never herd of a Buick nailhead motor. May ask why they call it that.? Would have liked to see how you got the old pistons out. Guess I missed that video. Enjoy watching this rebuild. Thanks for sharing.
So did the legendary Max Balchowsky, he ran one in his famous home built race car Old Yeller II, that car beat EVERY high end Ferrari, Jaguar, Aston Martin, Alfa Romero and even the Maserati Birdcage which was supposed to be the most advanced race car in the world at the time, he sent them ALL packing back across the Atlantic with their tails between their legs, he's also the guy that set up the two Mustang's and three Chargers used in the classic movie Bullitt along with many other movie cars. If you don't know the story of Max and his wife Ina and their racing exploits look him up on the internet and RU-vid, he's America's unsung road racing hero. He didn't always race Old Yeller II himself, sometimes he'd be a nice guy and let another driver run it because they didn't have a ride that weekend, Carroll Shelby himself along with Dan Gurney and other famous drivers ran that car back in the day.
I don't claim to be a Master Mechanic, but I'm pretty darn sure that you should have checked the main clearance with the studs and not the bolts. ARP, who I am guessing is the stud manufacturer recommends the following quoted from the 401 Buick nailhead kit instructions: "When changing from factory fasteners to high strength fasteners, clamping force and tolerances will change, therefore it will be necessary to check the main bearing bores for proper size and out of round condition after installation of the studs and align hone the cylinder block if necessary. The main bores should always be align honed using the same fasteners and lubricant which will be installed during final engine assembly at the recommended preload."
I thought the same thing, checked the comments to see if anyone else caught that too. I had a mains stud kit for my Ford Cleveland but didn't end up using it because the machine shop said they would need to align hone the mains for them and it was overkill for my application and would have blown the budget somewhat...
All these videos are great as is your old show "Generation Gap".I street raced a 390 Hi Po Torino back in the day and could race all nite on $2 of gas!Sex,drugs and Rock and Roll and fast muscle cars!You carry the 60s dream into these boring pre-Apocalyspe times!
You got me there 😂 i was waiting to hear some noise But it's ok you did a wonderful job there davin thank you so much for inspiring me you're the best I'm waiting for redline plz do it fast
God, that's a sexy motor! Like a good burlesque, "all tease, no show!"...start that mother, thanks Davin & Redline/Hagerty for bringing this series to us.
When you said you had a bad ring with that big gap 40 seconds in. I’m pretty sure that that ring was in the cylinder at an angle and not square. Was that on purpose to exaggerate what a bad ring might look like?
I notice you use the typical “acidbrush” to apply assembly lube.I use these quite a bit in aviation and invariably they lose a few bristles into whatever one uses them for. Have you had any issues?
Don't you think those fine threaded main studs torqued down to 110 ft.lbs. are going to alter the main bearing bores and bearing clearance compared to the stock main bolts?
An idea for editing that would be cool; since you are shooting in time lapse see if you can put a "spin" on the crank to make this engine want to run during the bottom end assembly
Would you ever consider doing a 242 4.0l inline 6 and if so, could you do something different then a standard rebuild? Like instead of it making at most 180 hp stock, why not going for more hp. Just something I was thinking as I’m rebuilding my 4.0l And love seeing all the time lapse
I uses to work at Navistar ,engine plant I6, in Melrose Park,IL [2008 -2009] they built -six cylinder diesels,we had a military contract when I was there.On a good day they did about 280 to 300 engines,everyone's gets dyno'd [did I spell that rite ? I was electrician/technician. I used to calibrate dynos. Also did 27 months @ Ford in Kansas city,Mo. where they build the F150. They launched the transit van,when I worked there 5/13 to 8/15 . I worked in the body shop were we build the frame.610 Fanuc robots in that plant, about 380 frames per day,[ We build the entire van,I was in the frame section of plant.] Building for Enterprise, U-haul,UPS, DHL, and the public. I recently heard from a co-worker,they are doing them for the us post office. On the truck side the F150 they drive one off ,that's the initial start up,one a minute, and it goes to dyno, then water test on the vehicle,final scan out, and out to the parking lot,train yards & nation wide. So I wasn't to disappointed when you didn't fire that motor. PS, every part on an engine build is scanned by who installs it,what shift ect. The dyno cells have double thick cinder block walls. I have seen a I6 diesel throw a rod's out of the cast iron block.More than once ? I will be watching ..? Nice build....
Why not drill the pistons on the underside in the pin land for added oil splash to the pins? Such as Mopar does on R/B engines! Also since you are using aftermarket studs do you use oil or another form of lubricate under the nuts? And does it change the final torque specs? The same with the head studs?
Hagerty covers my daughter's MoPacer! I love these videos. But why are the guys not wearing protective gloves? Grease, oils, solvents, heavy metals all can be absorbed into the skin. Thank you Hagerty!
is that a blackhawk ratchet i see on the table? I've been wanting one in 3/8ths for a while! also absolutely loving the series guys keep it up! love hearing you share you experience and information with us viewers, you're getting more comfortable on camera and a bettee host each video, cheers from ontario 🍁
