WOW!! Was this a recent video?? You look top notch!! 100%!! Glad to see ya doing so well, after your medical issues! Keep up the good work! Now, on to the video! I was ready for a long, drawn out, search and destroy mission, to find a long hidden circuit buster, buried deep within the bowels of that ancient beast!! And you popped out the marker light and BOOM, there it is!! Now for the million dollar question!! HOW LONG DID YOU SEARCH?? Was that the first place you looked, or THE LAST PLACE YOU LOOKED?? Lol Did you study the wiring diagrams for an hour, did you scratch your watch, and wind your...well, you know!! That could have turned into an all nighter, very easily!! I once got lucky working on one of those trucks, that was throwing an O2S2 circuit malf, on bank 1AND 2! I got down and looked, and the rust chased me back out from under it!! (THE RUST MONSTER WAS ANGRY THAT DAY) So I started thinking!! (I believe you mention that very thing, from time to time. CRITICAL THINKING) what could be causing both to malfunction? So I went to the wires, and followed them back to the transfer case and trans area, where they disappeared on top! I got up as much as possible, and was pulling on the bundle to see if anything popped out at me, and to find the location of the other end, and something sure enough popped out! It was the main connector for the rear O2 sensors! At some point, and trans was put in, and the plug wasn't fastened securely!! When I plugged it back in, the codes went away, and those angry rusty corroded sensor went right back to work!! Boy did I feel lucky that day!! Sometimes it's not the repair (or problem that needs a repair), it's the chase. It's finding a simple issue, that could have been buried for years, and never have been discovered!! My friend had a jeep Cherokee that had an intermittent drivability issue! They shot the parts cannon at it, to a power factor or 10! He finally challenged me to fix it!! I set about the task, ready for a long and drawn out battle!! The main body ground from the battery had broken, was still touching, but the loose battery could tend to dislodge it, causing the intermittent problem! Took me five minutes!! That was several years ago, and he still says that it wasn't the problem, there must have been something else, even tho the cable end fixed his problem!! Good to see ya up and running! Great find for ya, on this one!!
roadkill5333 No, I think that this would have been an older video, but Duane is looking great currently, as well. You’d be able to tell, as he still cannot use his left arm as much as before.....
you all prolly dont care at all but does anyone know of a tool to get back into an Instagram account..? I was dumb forgot my password. I appreciate any assistance you can offer me!
@Lennon Louis Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site through google and im in the hacking process atm. Seems to take quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
You mention that you don't need special expensive equipment to track something like this down. I wish there WAS special expensive equipment to track stuff like this down, there really isn't. It's just a matter of persistence and spending time to analyze the hell out of the diagrams and the circuits themselves. To make matters worse, it's usually dirt as shit like this which makes it really hard to see shorts sometimes, so you really have to spend a long time with each area of the harness that is accessible trying to figure out if any of the power lines can ground out. These issues can be nightmares to track down!
Ozzstar, Of course it's always the last place you look, unless you find it in the first place you look. I mean, you wouldn't look, find it and then keep on looking, would you??? Looool 😂😂😂 Only kidding!!!
Eric the car guy recommended your videos at the end of one of his videos .( how to dx a bad wheel bearing) I’ve watched quite a few of yours this evening and I enjoyed all of them I will be following you
Good Evening Realfixesrealfast 🙏 ✨ take care and have a great day 👍 God bless you Realfixesrealfast 👍 Great tutorial 👌 👍 👏 From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Many years ago a senior auto elec teacher (in an Australian tech college) showed us a way to help determine source of dead short that kept blowing fuses. He said modify a fuse so that each leg of the fuse is connected to a long wire that goes to one terminal + terminal and the the other to the ground terminal on a headlight globe (headlight globe preferred because it is nice and bright and can be seen out of the corner of your eye - more on that later). As soon a s the modified fuse with the globe in the circuit is fitted to the fuse block, the globe will come on, as it has power on one side from the fuse block and it has a ground on the other side from the dead short. After looking at the wiring circuit to see what that fuse powers, as Dwayne has done, start wiggling the leads, or if there are connectors in that wiring circuit, disconnect them one at a time til the headlamp globe in the circuit either goes off or starts flickering. Then you know something in that area or beyond it is causing the dead short to ground. The reason for the bright globe and the long leads is that you can place the globe in an offhand position (say if you are working under the dash or something else awkward) and in the corner of your eye, you can see the globe flicker on and off when the wires causing the short are are jiggled or disconnected. Not my idea but his. Has saved me a lot of heartache. Greetings from Land Down Under. Also keep it up - learning heaps. From 67 yr old supposedly retired mechanic.
I'm dealing with kind same issue 96 z71 but soon as I put new fuse in number 9 it pops I put in new light switch I look at all wires going to switch trailer tail plug going go back at it tomorrow try find problem
Don't forget to tell people about the horrible pigeons that like like to live inside of underneath your solar panels that could create black ways of water in create water diamonds in your home
I have a 99 camry 2.3 liter automatic, the #22 fuse 10 amp keeps blowing as soon as you turn the key to the on position. It's located at the panel just to the left of the steering wheel. This 10 amp fuse is for the power windows, cruise control, charging, tach, speedo, coolant gauge, etc. If I unplug the the connection at the neutral safety switch, the fuse doesn't blow when in the on position but the car won't start. The car will start with the nss connected but it doesn't charge because the fuse is blown, then I'm running on the battery. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Those shorts are frustrating for sure. Best advice is to get and review the diagram for each of the components on that fuse and look for what is common to all of them. Watch my video on how to find an active short. It should help as well
I had a similar intermittent blown fuse problem at one time. After doing a process of elimination by removing rear tail light bulbs that have two filaments in them - one filament for the tail light and one filament for the stop light, which when hot, moved toward the tail light filament and blew the fuse. The garage that I took it to initially who had the car for 4 days looking at it and who did not have a clue, said that they would have to disassemble the car completely to check all the wiring looms for the intermittent short and that they could not guarantee to find it and that after they would reassemble the car, it could end up rattling and squeaking because it was not put together as it was in the factory when made. What a joke - I quickly removed my car from their garage and proceeded to remove bulbs one at a time to find the problem.
You are a wise person. Unfortunately, that situation is not uncommon in many trades, not just auto repair. What I mean is this. Many problems do not have clear and visible causes. So it's true we need to search for answers. Those answers should make sense not be blind guesses. Listening, really listening, can usually reveal if an answer is a guess or an excuse. A wise person recognizes the difference. Congrats
So what if my car was working then the battery completely died and after i put a new one in the car wont even work. I go to my fuse box with a tester and almost all of my red 10a fuses are blown and other small fuses. Almost all the forums and videos focus on a single fuse but what if its the majority of the box
no easy answer. Review the diagram, isolate and test each circuit one at a time. That will be time consuming. Or, unplug each circuit from the fuse block, replace the fuses, one at a time plug them back in until you find the offending circuit.
had one on a 2012 ram 1500, blower motor operation was intermittent. we scanned it, visually checked wiring, checked the digital heater controls, fuses were good for the hvac.. couldn't find anything, but a big thing the customer could never give us any time to check it out really would always just show up and be in a big hurry, but it would always work for us. finally he booked it in and left it with us when it wasn't working at all. checked the fuses again and found the 30amp fuse blown. it was one of those square ones with the clear plastic top. when I pulled it out I noticed it was a bit green inside and on the terminals. come to find out he washed the engine and apparently the cover for the fuse box was off. and he said that shortly after is when it started acting up. cleaned the terminals and installed a new fuse, been 6 months and its still good.
if you didn't find that, would you have divided the circuit up with smaller fuses and sent it out and see what happens? it stinks when the fuse don't re blow
Agree with everything shown and I know only too well it can take some time to track down the fault. These days I have a bit of cheap equipment that I use to help me. It is a digital amp meter that I put in place of the fuse. The amp meter takes an automotive fuse to provide circuit protection and I normally put in one that is twice the value of one I am checking the circuit on (provided it is not an ECU circuit a momentary current jump wont be an issue in my experience). With either my eye on it or an observer watching the scale I go round the vehicle tugging on wires until I see a current jump. I start with groups of wires and then move to individual wires. I usually try to zero in on where wires run close to the metal body like the one in the video as rubbing through is the most common cause I find. Thanks for a good teaching video sir.
Have a po448 but it could be similar issue . don't have to do emissions till april 2019 I'll just keep digging. Learning more and saving money with your videos . I just retired and am having some heath issues myself nothing too drastic yet just taking one day at a time.
The question I have is where do you start looking at each lighting fixture? Does it really matter which one you choose first as long as you progressively move from one to the other in that circuit until you find the evidence?
Great to see a video from you. You are a well experienced tech! Before resuming I would install a circuit breaker as to not blow any more fuses. Then I would get a wiring diagram and se exactly what feeds off of that fuses and go from there.
