*Steps to sand, fill, and prime* *Sand* -120 grit sandpaper -220 grit sandpaper -320 grit sandpaper *Fill* (wash print before applying filler primer) -coat the entire 3D print (apply about 2 coats and wait for each coat to dry before applying second coat) (stay 8-10 inches away) *sand* -sand the primer with 400 grit *wash* -wash the print off *glaze spot putty* -fill big cracks and lines -wait to dry and then sand with 400 grit *give another coat of fill primer* *wet sand* -wet the helmet and then sand with 600 grit sandpaper -wet sand again with 1500 grit sandpaper *wash*
Coming here two years later! Amazing video and very well explained. My only question is, do you always want to wash the filler off before paint? Like always end with sanding amd then washing? Then let dry and paint?
Another great process after glazing putty is to make Rhondo and coat the surface. It's self leveling and really smooth after sanding... rhondo is a mix of fiberglass resin and body filler. Mix both as you would use it then add the body filler to the resin and paint on with a chip brush and let dry but be careful of drips
@@3DPrintedProps I use it all the time. It's a definite time saver. Usually I do a light 80 grit sand and then use a rhondo coat and then go into 220 - 400 sand then primer filler and start wet sanding 1000 - 2500, spot and glaze putty the pin holes sand and your ready for final prime and paint
Quick tip for anyone starting that has sensory issues. I started sanding my first print the other day and didn’t realize I was legit biting my lower lip the entire time due to the sheer displeasure of sanding. To the point where I burst blood vessels and now am in weeks of recovery and an extremely painful and gross looking lower lip.
When using the wet sandpaper are you just using water to wet it? When I was a cnc machinist we used mineral spirits to sand the tombstones down but I feel like you're using water.
...few tips from a painter, use a glove when you're handling the liquid bondo! that's chemicals getting in to your skin there! Second, as a pre paint layer it's better to use 800 grit wet, 1200 is actually pretty fine and a pre polishing grit, it will be bad for adhesion, maybe not directly when you paint it, but in the longer run, like a few years chances are (depending on the paint) that it's gonna crack or come loose...lastly, USE SCOTCH PADS! for this type of sanding, red scotch pads are excellent here, they are a savior to sand difficult places without damaging small details and are also great to use as a final wet sand before painting.
Came to say the same about the high grit sanding. I would say 600-800 is a great stopping place for paint. If you are going to cut and polish then the finer grit will do well for that glass like finish.
My God...someone who actually takes the time to explain the process rather than just rush through it, and actually EXPLAINS what products THEY. ARE. USING. One of the most irritating things people do is, "Now I'm gonna do this but I'm not gonna bother telling you what I'm using to accomplish the desired effect." .................. Well then, what's the POINT of a how to video if you DON'T tell us what you're using?? Everything I wanted to know has been answered in this video. And because you did such an excellent job explaining it, I subscribed. I'm definitely gonna watch your other videos, thanks for making such great content!
Those cheap masks dont do much when it comes to those fine particles, you will breath them in. You need a better mask like a painters mask for make a complete seal around your mouth/nose. Those cheap masks have so many spots not sealed. I know this from experience.
I'm using this as my BIBLE right now. This is the most clear video I've seen, and I thank you SO much! It seems like everyone has their own process for this, but a lot of those processes seem unnecessarily repetitive and complicated.
You are super awesome! I've been wanting to make a replica helmet of a character my fiance loves and I was scared about making a mess and ruining the print. You've explained things so clearly and show what you're doing to the point where I'm not anywhere near as terrified of this. Thank you so much for sharing. The final product in the next video turned out so amazing that I'm going to for sure have a hard time deciding between the matte or the polished shiny look.
Hmm, 9.5 out of 10 videos on youtube on smoothing FDM printed parts in PLA mentions sanding. I mass produce large 3D prints for customers and I am quite confident to say that sanding PLA isnt the most efficient method. Even the 3D printing services company I out source to, as I can't mass produce prints fast enough, do not offer sanding option for PLA. Hope this helps if anyone reads this. The method I use is I first spray 3-5 coats of spray putty on a fresh print. You sand down the putty into the PLA RATHER than sand the PLA... PLA very resilient to sanding. I will sand my SLA resin prints, but not PLA. Not anymore, no thanks, I have experienced that. If you sand PLA, you will notice the PLA will have fuzz/hair which are PLA ripped out of its surface by the sand paper. PLA doesn't shave off into fine powder as well as resin or putty. Try it, once you used spray putty to fill the layer lines and sand them down, you will never go back to .... "sanding PLA"... a little funny. You then finish it off to achieve the glaze normally like you usually do.
Thank you for this! When you say spray putty, do you mean filler primer? Or something else? If not filler primer, can you mention what product you use? Thank you!
@@stevetb7777 spray putty is typically found in automotive stores. They are used to cover scratches in car body repair. Google it, it should turn up right away. It can be used as primer but it's not like paint primer which is thin. Just a few coats of the spray putty builds up a fairly thick layer. Have fun :)
@@wyukigurumi Apparently not so simple. =D I'm in CA, USA. This spray putty, this isn't in an aerosol can right? Most I'm seeing have to be mixed with another chemical, and a spray gun is used. "Polyester Primer Surfacer" is what most of these are. Am I on the right track? Can you recommend any particular brands? Most of what I find I can't get here, even shipped. Thanks!
@@stevetb7777 it is definitely an aerosol spray. It also comes in a big tin for car body workers to use a spray gun with. Nah, for 3D printing hobbyists, just get the aerosol version.
Yep, I've listened to everyone and am being more careful. You always start out that way, then get lazy. I have a number of older woodworker friends who have lost tips of fingers since they just make stupid mistakes cause they are so used to the machines now that they cut corners.
problem when you start sanding with 1000+ grit is not all paint can adhere to it, even in the automotive world even super cars they will only sand to 400-600, paint needs grit to adhere to smooth surfaces better. also spray paint there is no point in going above 1000, as the natural textured formed due to the less atomization vs conventional spray guns will basically ignore all the extra work you put in. it will just naturally cover and flow based on how you apply the next few coats of paint regardless of a 400 grit finish or 1000+ normally after primer you sand to 400-600 then you do a sealer coat before base which smooths out any potential grit lines, wait 30 mins then do base coat, waiting proper flash times between coats for best adhesion possible. save 1000+ for cutting and buffing clear coats for ultra smooth finishes.
Maybe spray Mr. Super Clear mat? Never tried that but I have done some doll repaints and used that so the colored pencils and chalk can hold on to something.
Yeah 1000+ grit is really a little overkill prior to painting. Wet sanding should be done after a few coats of paint have been laid down. On the other hand I doubt the high grit will impact adhesion, I guess any solvent will readily eat into the PLA anyway.
I’m printing this helmet for Halloween to go out with my friends in our own dc costumes and this video is freaking awesome thank you so much. NOBODY went into this much depth, so this helped a lot.
Love the video and your fine work, a few too many grits for the average Joe, at about $12 per grit pack at Home Depot, 120/220/320/400/600/1200 plus the 2X Primer =$100. I get by with 120, 320 400 and 1000 but your results are superior....I will also use a palm sander using 80 on bigger sections of flat areas...if money and time were no objects, I'd like to follow your grit choices
I've found that silicone "brushes" work excellent for smoothing on your putty. It really smooshes it into the cracks. Thanks for the video, very helpful
me prior to this video, thinking 120 and 220 grit sandpaper will be enough: him going up into the thousands: well. i guess i need to get some more sandpaper
Fantastic video. Thankyou! Relatively new to 3D printing so it's great to see someone going back to basics and being able to see someone else's approach.
$20 worth of filament $10 of Bondo Sandpaper... $5? Primer $5 Gold paint $5 Candy red $15 Clear coat $5 Minimum $65. Probably closer to $80, plus a LOT of time. I'm using the cheap stuff, but it's expensive to finish this prop. Not including the time I had to spend in Meshmixer to cut it down to fit an Ender 3.
Love your videos. I’m making a helmet I plan to have signed at a future con. Any idea how to proceed with clear coat? Should I clear coat before and after? Or just wait on the clear coat until after signed? I don’t know if the clear coat will hinder the helmet being signed if applied beforehand. Thanks!
I'm not sure to be honest. I would do a test. Paint a scrap print, sign it with a sharpie then test it with a clear coat that u know works with the paint. If it works bring that sharpie.
Thanks for the forecast! A bit off-topic, but I wanted to ask: I have a SafePal wallet with USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (behave today finger ski upon boy assault summer exhaust beauty stereo over). How should I go about transferring them to Binance?
HA! I was actually trying to not get mad and start swearing. I screwed that part up a number of times and was just trying to chill. But yeah, I am old. :P
What if you already did the paint job, but half a year later you realize there are still printing lines and imperfections that you want to get rid off? Can you just sand it down again, but primer/wood putty etc on it and "start over"? Don't wanna ruin my build as i really love it
quick question and may be silly, I printed a samurai mask and unfortunately already sprayed primer on it ... anyone think that I can still do these steps without issue?
I recommend saving yourself ALOT of steps and getting a better, more consistent end result by washing the plastic first then coating the entire piece with the glazing. from there you can start sanding straight away with the 400. since you already have the glazing in your workflow, do it as a first step. Or, do bondo. Either one. I personally would just mix up bondo and use bondo on the piece but for something like a mask the glazing's fine too as a first step But either way, wash the hell out of it, let it dry, blow it out with a dry air compressor line to get rid of dust and other materials, and then just glaze or bondo it. REALLY thin, just covering the lines. Then start sanding at 400. If 400 isn't cutting enough drop down to 320 but once you get the hang of it and are able to put an even, thin layer of bondo or glaze, you won't need to go to 320 and can start at 400. It will save hours and hours and hours of time, and the end result is usually better becuase there's less chance of distorting the lines of the piece by "over sanding" with the lower grits trying to even out the lines. Doing it this way also negates the need for sandable/fillable primer, although you can still use that if you want. A regular primer will do just fine though. Also, its a good idea to NOT sand primer past 400-800 grit. While you CAN, you're actually removing some of the mechanical surface imperfections that the final coats of paint will use to adhere to the primer. The smoother it is, the less mechanical adhesion. You want to wait til you're on youre final clear coat to use the 2,000+ grits. What I usually do with primer is sand it smooth with 400 and wash it and paint it. Once the final clear is on and cured enough to sand, I sand it with 1500, 2000, 25000, then 3000. This will produce a mirror finish EVERY TIME.
This sounds like a more traditional method. I thought I had seen somewhere that you wanted a certain level of grit for the paint to adhere to so that’s good. Thanks for sharing!
Yeah, that's a lot harder. You can use smaller sanding tools and files but its not as easy. Fir really intricate models you will only be able to do so much on an FDM printer before you have to move to resin printing.
I have a question? At 5:55 when you start sanding again, what grit do you start using? Really new to this so I’m just tryna be cautious with my own print as I follow your guide
Thank you so much for this amazing video! I have a quick question: I have a SafePal wallet with USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (air carpet target dish off jeans toilet sweet piano spoil fruit essay). What's the best way to send them to Binance?
first video i saw from the beggining to the end, when i was starting at 3d printing i was like meeh! this is wortless better learn to print really well but it is almost imposible in normal 3d printers so this is really necesary if you want a valuable piece, thank you so much
For some reason, after I primed my parts with the fillable and sandable primer, when I start sanding it, the primer starts to come off in chunks. What should I do? I spent so much time on this already /:
my part looks horrible lol. the primer is ripped off in chunks and smooth in other places. idk what to do but this sucks having spent so much time on it.
This is such a detailed video. I’m making (more like putting together) a mandalorian cosplay and just bought a lot of 3D printed armour. Will definitely be using this video for reference
the foam for applying is a great idea, never though about that also realized what you were talking about, using too much of the glazing putty has caused it to crack for me, gotta go back and use a heavier filler first and then use the glaze to fill the small remaining stuff
Well for example the first grit, the most aggressive I stopped when I could see that most of the larger peaks and valleys were worn down. Then I moved to the next. Usually you just need to do it by eye. go over it once and see if the imperfections your were sanding is gone and move to the next.
In woodworking, sanding with finer grits is all about removing scratches from the previous grit. In that sense you would remove ALL imperfections and layerlines from the start, before going to the next grit. So that you only have to remove scratches from the sandpaper when you proceed. That makes it way faster to finish. And going anywhere beyond 800 grit is a waste of time, because you are only polishing the surface, giving the paint less grip. I would probably not go beyond 400 grit before painting, but then wet sand the primer.
I'm using 3000 grit wet sand paper as a last sanding process ! if you don't want to paint your product i think you can use 5000 grit after all these sanding process and also you can make very high qualify silicone mold from your 3dprinted part.
Muito bom o vídeo, quantas camadas deixo antes e depois do preenchimento na hora da impressão? Qual o ideal para não correr risco de chegar ao preenchimento interno quando estiver lixando?
amazing work you did ^^, i was wondering which sand layer you used after the primer filler :) I'm using red spray paint instead of manual so was wondering about the thicker grooves on top
@@3DPrintedProps when I've used Rust-Oleum my sandpaper tends to get gummed up almost instantly. Even doing light coats and I even had a full week of drying time. I prefer duplicolor in every regard. Definitely worth checking out.
It's a great video and great work, but I'll save you tonnes of time with this advice (naysayers are welcome to chime in).There's absolutely zero reason to sand the surface material and/or filler down to anything over 400g, let alone going all the way up to 2000. In fact, sanding your rough surface to anything above 400g will cause problems with your primer adhesion. The prime layer is meant to soak in and fill shallow scratches - like the scratches left by 220g to 400g - and again to be sanded down to 220g-400g in preparation for the first colour coat. The first colour coat is for bonding and final sanding (unless you spot more scratches that you want out - then you could recoat it, or clearcoat it, or even waxless polish might deal with it). The last colour coat is your final surface, in which it's your choice to wet-sand, or not. A well sprayed topcoat doesn't need final wet sanding, unless you're going for perfection. Save the tedious high-grit micro-sanding for the last coat on any project.
Man, this is by far the best video I have seen to prepare my 3d prints for painting. You would think there are thousands of videos like this one on the internet but, trust me, you only need this one!!!! Thank you so much
Great video. But you have 3 sets of instructions. Intro of the video you present the set of steps you do. Taking us through the actual process, the steps differ from your intro. And finally in the recap, the steps differ a third time. I guess I'll just try it out until I find the one that works best? :) No hate, just found it a bit confusing.
@@3DPrintedProps Found one what is similar in OBI, called "insulating primer". Btw your Video was really useful for me to make a 3d printed helmet, thank you .
