Finishing The Backdrop And Adding A Tunnel (201) 

A little tray of water is handy to dip your spatula into for smoothing the plaster.

I purchased a drywall mixer that I attach to my drill and mix the compound each time I have let it set for a while. Really makes it easier to use. Also I've found a little water poured on top of the compound in a partial bucket keeps it from drying out and getting hard on top. Just enough to cover the surface. Really enjoy learning from you. You are an excellent teacher. Thank you.

Thanks Larry, 🐾🚂.

The moisture usually settle toward the bottom. One help is to store the bucket upside down when not in use and then you will see how wet it is and remember to mix it. It is also advisable to take out the amount you think you will need and close the bucket and do not return any material that has been in contact with the Masonite as fibers will be returned to the bucket and will add to how quickly it will dry out. Thank you for doing these videos. You have helped many modelers with all different aspects of the hobby, myself included. I always look forward to your videos.

Larry Looks like your coming along looking forward to seeing the back drops.

Nice update today

A touch of water and mix well will keep the mud plyable

As usual great video

I find if you stir the filler before using it makes flow better and easier to spread over the joint.

Nice work Larry especially like the Dremel tool through the wall that is neat little gadget to add to my Dremel tool collection Thanks for all the beds you over 200 now just as the DCC guy congrats

"My wife doesn't come down here very often, which is good." That made me laugh. My wife checks up on me pretty much every day.

What another excellent Video Larry, mind I fancy my Wife would be keeping a closer Eye on what I was up to in the Cellar, if I was lucky enough to have one. I am always in awe of your Skills especially when combining them with shooting a Video at the same time. Looking forward to the next Installment. Keep safe.

Yes Larry that drywall mud is way too dry. You might be able to rejuvenate it by adding and thoroughly mixing in a bit of water but chances are it has started to react and is beyond redemption. I would have cut the tape a bit longer (just a bit less than the thickness of the foam sub-base) and pushed the "tail" of it down behind the foam base with the 4" knife to avoid the tools catching the cut end and pulling it up like it did when you were adding mud at the bottom. I'm still having a bugger of a time getting my Masonite to curve anywhere near as tight as you do. It could be a different Windex formulation here in Canada or be due to both sides being smooth finished rather than the back side being "textured". But clearly it can be done so I'll keep playing with it until I get the required results although any further guidance or comments wouldn't hurt..

Very timely as I'm just starting the process of getting masonite attached to wall for backdrop before I start building out the benchwork, which by the way, I'm doing it the same as your upper level, with L brackets. Learning a lot of great info and tips from your channel!

Gezz Larry 1st thing came to mind in the backdrop was.how many times you measured before cutting that hardboard! lol nicely done

Nice video that Woodland scenics rock mold i never knew how that worked but i know now. It is certainly a very good product to invest in.

I worked with guys at Union Pacific who had been employed for 30 years and every day was like it was their first. Don't feel bad about mudding; it is an art that demands constant practice. Those angles you have to be at are a bit awkward as well, I should think.

Great video Larry. The joint compound seemed to be more moist at the end. Was it a new container?

I have tried to locate all of your previous episodes but I can NOT find # 37. Does it exist? Topic? I appreciate having the material at my fingertips now that I'm in my mid-70s but only starting my first DCC shelf layout.

I think the key ingredient for the board bending is ammonium hydroxide, which is commonly known as Ammonia D. Obviously any window cleaner with that ingredient is suitable. The brand name is not required. Just don't try an ammonia free cleaner.

Larry looks great, did you use woodland scenics hydro cal for the tunnel castings

Number one on my wish list! An American basement. For reference see last week’s comment.