Awesome job! I like how you make small changes and track your progress. Great attitude.... If you goof up a run, you just keep hammering away until you get it. If it was easy, everyone would do it. Great video
Man, I love that small block in the big car; Also, the way you show and tell what you are doing, show the the time slips with enough time to look at them, and all the great views, too.
Thanks for the feed back man! I appreciate it. I’m rookie at this stuff lol I figured there must be Ford gear heads out there like me who want more small block Ford content so I figured I’d share my car.
Thanks. Yeah that’s never happened in like the last 10 years that I know of. I get they need to make money but next time I’ll just buy test and tune. And that kills the car count in the Index races. There were 6 cars in my class so let’s say I went to the final I get 5 passes max, 3 if I lose first round for $50. Or test and tune and have no limit on runs and only limited by time only. Could get 5 could get 15.
I’m interested in racing cars similar to that of your 11.50 index class. I was just wondering what kind of weekly maintenance you do between weekends, because having the car is one thing, but maintaining it is what im worried about. If you could help me that’d be great!
Not much really. I changed the oil after last weeks test session just to get the assembly lube and stuff out of it but that’s about it. Cleaned the carb out but that’s rare.
@@mikeymac9 I've been drag racing Fords since the late 60's. The most fun were the SBF cars. I/we have two street legal Fords that run in the mid 11's. 1969 Boss 302 Mustang and a 1971 Maverick Grabber with a 351w HO engine. Both use drag radial tires. The '71 Maverick Grabber is my oldest daughter's car. She does most of the work on it herself. I built the car for her back in 1981. We switched it to a 351w HO from a 302w in 1985. If I can help you, in any way, let me know.
Just seen your Channel good job getting that 302 into the 11' s for now maybe 10's next . Do you think a 4.56 would be be better seems like it's bogging down when the clutch is let out, keep it up
I just go this combo together so I’m just going to work on getting me, the clutch, and suspension as efficient as possible and see how quick we can go with a stock short block NA 302.
@@evilinside5984 Headers are the same 1 5/8”. After 6700 it doesn’t feel like it’s pulling and you can hear it start to break up. Might need some more valve spring.
@@mikeymac9 That maybe true about the valve spring's, but if its hitting your rev. Limiter, it will feel like it's not pulling, and it can sound like that. Many of my friend's that drag race, have had issue's with Rpm limiter's cutting the Rpm off 200 to 300 Rpm before it say's. Example: One had a 7,000 Rpm pill, and it would sound just like your's around 6,700 to 6,750 Rpm. He said it wasnt pulling. So i said try a 7,300 pill, and his E.t., and Mph picked up. Got another tachometer, and confirmed, that his rev. Limiter pills were all cutting off 250 Rpm early! Maybe try bumping your rev. Limiter up 300 Rpm, to see if it still sound's like that through the trap's in 4th gear?
I do. And I have had a heavy flywheel also and still bogs. The bog is my driving style and how the car is set up… off the clutch too fast and too much clutch. I’ll probably add some more shim to the clutch. I personally don’t subscribe to the heavy flywheel theory.
No it didn’t. That’s a tribute to my first Torino my dad bought me for my first car back in 1994. It was a 1971 4 door beast but it had a real metal Tasca emblem on it.
Glad you noticed the bog, I guess your in a dilemma. Faster than 11.50 you need a bar . Put a bar in you add more weight 😬. You can try to go faster and probably will get there. But your wringing that thing out pretty good. Have you thought about running a slower class ? If your shooting for fMost cars running 11.50 are generally 11.0 cars . If your shooting to just see how fast it will go without a bar it will be a one and done. But it will be interesting to see how quick it would go . Also what rpm are you crossing at ? If things are perfect you want your shift light solid before you cross the line.
I’ve been fighting the bog for like 7 years lol. I usually run 12.50 index but wanted to run it out with the new combo and usually allowed to lose and run test and tune. I just race with my friends and have fun. I just want to see how fast I can go and not care about winning. A roll bar will be going in it and yeah adding the weight sucks but it’s a safety thing now. Crossing about 65-6600 now. Shifting at 6700 didn’t seem to go faster. So we might be close as it is.
Aside from a lower rear gear a heavier flywheel would help . You mph wouldn’t change with a 4:56 gear but it may help the bog and the drop between gears . You would probably hit 11.4s at this point I’m not sure your car would get any quicker. Not to say it’s not. it works ! Anyone who has a mid 11 sec street car N/A specially with a stock bottom end deserves some cred👍
@@caseym3118 I think it’s got an 11.3 in there once I get some more seat time. I had a heavy flywheel and same result. I personally don’t believe in the heavy flywheel theory. I know it’s been said a bunch in the comments but I’ve tested it and no change.
@@mikeymac9 try a different clutch . That bog is what is killing it . Your driving is good . 2tenths is hard to improve on when it’s all at its max . My car went 12.0s all day long 116mph 2900lb race weight with a bar .with real street tires it was a stick 3.73 gears cast piston 302 66 289 ported heads ported by me t5 3.35 first gear. 750double untouched victor jr. smaller cam than yours . I coulda had a lucky day and hit a 11 . It was all there 1.78 60 was the best I could roll out on leaving at just over idle couldn’t floor it until the top of 1st . If I could launch and hook like yours I would be so happy! I had a factory flywheel. Shifted at 65-6800 .
@@mikeymac9 I had a aluminum flywheel and drove it for 19 yrs, then switch to a lightweight chromoly wheel, and instantly noticed it moved easier without revving
In your race class, relocating the battery to the trunk isn't allowed? Will the rules allow...& can you afford, an aluminum radiator? I think your biggest issue is getting dialed in. 45 degrees is pretty chilly so you'll be doing the same t&t when temps get warmer. Your biggest issue is that nasty little negative sign in your R/T. At least your driving skill won't be affected by the outside temps. Are you competing for points or just having fun & challenging yourself? I race motorcycle dirt track(clay oval), well I try to race. Don't have the natural gifts that some of my competition have. Best wishes for the season!
They do allow the battery relocation but it’s not something I want to do. It does have an aluminum radiator. I’m just racing for fun and was planning on test and tune. No doubt it will be slower in the summer. Going for 12.0 at Midwest Drags.
You are running against a so called 350. With a 302 Windsor. I do not like a pro tree. Count down tree is my kind of racing. Your 302 Torino runs hard.
Hey buddy let me give you a suggestion to get rid of the bog. You need jet extensions. Also get rid of the spacers. My car bogged with spacers. I got rid of them and it went away. The reason it's bogging is because you launch hard and the gas in the bowl is sloshing terribly and the stock jets aren't doing its job. I would bolt the carb onto the intake directly and if that don't work then get the jet extensions. One or both will get rid of your bog forever!!. I hope this helps
