You can modify the wiring to change the state of the LED to light-when-pressed to always-on. The CY822B is similar to the more common Zero Delay boards (CY822A) with Common(+5v) & Trigger(pulled-low) but with the addition of Gnd(-ve). Your package contain plugs with yellow-black-red orientation which cause LED to light-when-pressed. If you switch the plugs with black-yellow-red orientation, they will cause LED to be always-on. Note: China does not always follow colour wiring standards, so 3-wire, Gnd is red and +5v can be black or yellow but, to be more confusing, 2-wire, Gnd is black and +5v is red. Remember circuit board outside edge is always common(+5V). This LED 3-wire insight was noted by another blogger from 2016. When holding an illuminated LED button looking at the back with SPST switch contacts on top, switch takes a signal, and common(+5V) wire in any order; below are LED contacts with Cathode(-ve/Gnd), and to the right, Anode(+5V). Remember that K1-K12 on the circuit board oriented from outer edge to centre is as follows: Common(+5v), Trigger(pulled-low), Gnd(-ve). The keys(buttons) for these boards are never shorted to ground but are short to Common(+5v) as triggers are all pulled-low in a non-pressed state. This is opposite to North American thinking where cars are common ground. You spin me right 'round, baby, right 'round.
i uhave the same board. but what i am trying to do is get eatch button to replicate any specific key on my keyboard. for example, i want to push button "3" and it reads had the "n" key on my keyboard being pressed.
All the manufacturers that claim it works for Android, none of them tell you how to do it. It seems to me you CAN'T ! I have as of yet to find one single person having made any of these generic controller board to work with Android. An Android TV box would otherwise have been a great choice to build a cheap MAME setup with. But the whole joystick thing is a massive frustration. Raspberry PIs are stupid expensive right now, thanks to artificially aggravated "inflation" and "shortages" (quote quote). Seems building a Linux box using old parts is the way to go. Uses a lot of power and heat though, not liking that. But for crying out, SOMEONE show any of these controllers working on Android! And not some PS4 thing or other game pad. No. I'm talking those generic clicky arcade joysticks with the little controller boards they tend to come with. Anyone? Anyone? Bueller? Anyone?
So, in the case where 2 buttons have to be pressed at the same time for super power movesm would the problem be the encoder or the buttons themselves? Every button works and regular moves work... only when 2 have to be pressed at the same time.
I've never had that issue. I can press two button in game and do super moves. Maybe you have a different encoder board then me. But I've bought a few over the years without problems
Everyone used this for MAME (idk what's that but i'll assume it's something related to emulation) if anyone bought this for fighting games, is it worth it? I might get this as my first stick since it's the cheapest option i can get where i live and i only play fighting games
hi, i bought that thing to build a cheap controller for sf6 after wiring it up correctly it worked just fine in windows. unfortunatley linux didn't tell me how to wire it up correctly, and needed a bit of tweaking with steaminput, before it worked i dont have consoles to test it, but it probably wont work on ps5/4 xbox one. (that verified controller bs)
no - requires separate micro-controller and software. I made my own using a Pro Micro with ATMega32U MCU. I posted some RU-vid vids demoing both spinner and trackball of my DIY design. Spinners from last 10 years are of common cheaper DIY design with either shared or custom Arduino software. I have had the privileged of suspiciously being knocked-off by a Chinese copy-cat from my GitHub project when a RU-vid video appeared around Dec 2022 with distinct fingerprints of my design. If you are less handy then controllers from Ultimarc or Groovy Game Gear can be had.
May I know how to connect a USB joystick to JAMMA harness? I just have the arcade board without the cabinet and I already found a RGB to VGA converter. Hopefully you can share your experience with me.
I know this is old but if you already have this kit the connectors don't fit jamma. You could snip the connectors off and add spade connectors. Then you individually connect each wire to the correct input on the board, both positive and ground.
The joke: With zip ties! You don't. JAMMA appeared in early 80's but USB showed it face for Win95 OSR 2 and didn't work. USB was more stable for Win98/98SE, so year 1999. Hard wire the joystick switches into the JAMMA harness with the four buttons plus coin & start. That is what JAMMA was designed for; a universal connector two player. From Street Fighter II add an unstandardized kick harness for extra buttons. *J* apan *A* musement *M* achine and *M* arketing *A* ssociation.
I just got these and the buttons are way too small. I have an Arcade1Up cabinet and I was looking for LED buttons that would seemingly be the same size. Disappointed
When I look these up they say they support PS2 and such. But how? PS2 used 2 joysticks. Im trying to make a custom Gamecube controller for Pi, but this only allows one Joystick.
CY822A - Zero Delay joystick/12 buttons - analogue x/y/z with user board mod CY822B - Zero Delay joystick/12 buttons with LED buttons (Sanwa) CY2801A - dual Analogue/Dpad(joystick)/12 buttons CY2801B - dual Analogue/Dpad(joystick)/12 buttons with LED buttons CY1123 - joystick/12 buttons with LED buttons (Happ) separate button & 5v power plug sockets CY1121 - dual joystick/10 buttons each side - K11/K12 plugs eliminated CY5804 - full 101 keyboard breakout board combine with CY1124HC - joystick/keyboard with 21 keys Q/W/E/R - A/S/D/F - Z/X/C/V - Space/Enter/Del/Shift/Alt/Ctrl/F5/F1/Esc or can be used with CY5804 for full keyboard CY1126HC - keyboard only requires CY5804
Buy a different button, different manufactures use different spring tensions. Sanwa 30mm are about 60g force while 24mm no-name LED are about 50g force. Happ style can have micro switches with 2, 8, 16, 32 oz press force. Micro switches were designed for industry. Plus, remember Happ style have an extra lighter tension spring inside the plastic button cylinder which should have no effect as the micro switch are usually higher press force.
