Although the tubeless setup is holding more air now, I do believe the problem I have had is down to the width of the tubeless tape I was using (28mm - potentially too wide for these rims) and the fact that the tape was not pulled taught enough as you can see in the video. I will be re-doing this at some point and will report back my results! Cheers for watching!
Ive had exactly the same issues with rim tape. You really need to take time applying it and making sure there are no air bubbles. I had the same issues, in the end i re-taped the wheel with gorilla tape which I personally think adheres to the shape of the rim better, the disadvantage is it probably leaves a lot more glue on the rim when it comes time to retape them
Thanks for this info Phil! I originally tried gorilla tape but it seemed to peel away from the bead when I installed the tyre. I'm now wondering if this might be my heavy handed approach to getting tyres back on. My rear tyre is still loosing its pressure over the course of a day, so I think I may give it another go with gorilla tape. Thanks again!
DJFXC i think hardly anybody gets it right first time, but once you do you’ll never go back. Running tubeless and a dropper post are the 2 essentials on any mountain bike for me. 👍👍👍
Need to get urself a dropper seat it's a must I ha e a voodoo bantu 2019 love it and have done quiet a few upgrades also I fou d to use gorilla tape worked well for the tubless set up along with stans sealant as it would seal anything and my rims wernt even tubless ready well they are now 😂😁 great video
Thanks Chris! I agree, the dropper is definitely on the list of things for the future! Glad to hear you had a good result with Gorilla tape, I will have to give it another try in the future.
Nope I didn't, I just cut them open and wrapped them around the cables. To secure I just used some electrical tape (although they seemed to fit well with friction alone).
I got the normal Bizango which I like. Is the price difference worth it for carbon? Personally I would've bought a better bike with that money. at around 1K mark you can get something with better shifters/breaks.. dropper post and tubeless ready. Even a better fork.
I agree, if you only had £1000 to spend you could probably get a better bike on paper. I personally got the bike second hand (for £650) but got it to upgrade the components, so I could have a cheap carbon XC bike. I think the alloy one is a fantastic buy, I’d have to ride it to compare against the carbon version. (I might do a video on this tbh) 😃
@@DJFXC that's a cracking price for the carbon. Did you fix the pressure issue in the tires? Once mine are worn I indeed to go tubeless as well and get some wider ones.
Hi. I've got this bike and I've got a rear wheel wobble on it. Ive had the wheel and hub replaced and the wheel moves a few mm still.halfords are telling me that this is normal. I dint believe it is. They are saying its because the boost axle. Problem is bo halfords has got any of these bikes to prove. Has your rear wheel got any movement
Hi Andy, I've seen many people complain about the hubs on the Bizango C, so you are not alone. On mine, there is no bearing play but is a good deal of sticking (which will probably lead to excess wear and subsequent bearing play in the future). Might be worth taking it into a local bike shop to have a proper look, as i've not had the best experience with halfords in the past. Cheers!
I know its a real shame. There are sometimes people selling them second hand and there is rumor's floating about of a new model coming out in spring, so it might be worth hanging on for now!
You should not have to upgrade a bike that price. I am beating full suspension bikes downhill on a twenty year old hardtail. You can't buy ability and yall are fooling yourselves if you think you can. Trash mind set at best.
