Fishing Line 3: Rigging Up! Which Lines for Which Technique? 

Hi, Kerry. Great! Glad you like my approach. My plans are to make many more videos. I have a very long list of topics to cover. However, I just happened to fire up my TNF channel -with a trial documentary and a run of pre-shot videos- just as YT went through its advertiser mutiny, due to all the offensive content. That set me back a LOT. So, I’ve been working, attending to life’s responsibilities, and working at TNF when I can. My goal for this winter was to get my next documentary out, but a series of events, including food poisoning, the flu, followed by pneumonia, actually kept me in bed…more than I could stand. It hurt, watching the days, then weeks, tick by. I’m up and running again now. As to the commercial aspects of fishing content, it’s understandable since content production takes time away from earning a living, or has to adequately contribute to it. Product sponsorship makes the industry financially… afloat. We all pretty much live in a commercialized culture. It’s much easier to get paid selling products than it is just providing information. That’s what “being a Pro” pretty much means in this culture. Few people have made the investment to be well versed in the science, and the fishing, too. Remains to be seen if I can make TNF fly, as an info rich content focused channel. My focus won’t be selling products. I have not worked this hard over the… decades… to put my time and efforts into product sales. I have no issues with it, I sold fishing tackle full time at the then largest fishing tackle retailer in the state of NY once upon a time. Loved that job. But, while I was working full time at that, I was also starting my academic career, in college full time. Pretty much never stopped learning. You know how Jon B’s mantra, “Never stop.”. Mine was always, “Never get off the train.” The learning/knowledge train that is. Been a curious sort all my life, and I blame a single rock bass I caught at age 5, for that passionate curiosity. I guess it got me digging a bit deeper than most, when it comes to figuring out fishing. I can tell you at this point, that what I’ve discovered for myself, barely scratches the surface of what there is to know about how nature works. I’ve been givin’ it hell though. And will continue to do so, for myself, since I never really got off that train. It’s been gained too much speed now. When I jump, it’ll be for good. TNF and YT? Remains to be seen if I can make it fly on YT. Glad to have you along. More videos to come. Cheers, Paul.

Hi, Dave. Thanks! Fascinating subject… our planet! :) Who could help but be hooked! Best, Paul

Hi, J2. Great to hear. Thanks for letting me know. Lots of awesome experiences ahead. All the Best, Paul

Great to hear. Can't wait to get back to it.

Hi, Jonathan. Thanks for... encouraging my humor and hubris! :)) There's a difference between bravado and confidence in what you're doing. If you're wrong, you'll find out, and adjust, soon enough. Nature has a way of sifting out the truth. Sounds like we've been down some of the same paths in our fishing. Thanks for popping in. Why don't academics go pro? I can answer that one! They have different jobs. I would make a lousy pro, bc I don't care who catches the fish, as long as someone catches them, and I know why. Plus, I'm too distractible, checking out things that may not pay off ... til next year, if at all. That can even be trouble for professional academics. All the best, Paul

@@thenatureoffishing7591 really have enjoyed your channel. If your patron is still open, let me know. I just started bass fishing last year. Still a struggle for sure, maybe an enduring struggle for years to come. But fun and a great outlet to enjoy Gods creation and show the fish some love on release. I had a similar experience coming close to a fishes eyeball, as I saw in a later video. I truly don’t like causing damage to one of these creatures from the deep or the shallows. I’m going to keep watching. BTW, my comments were in jest, hope you took it that way. You’re an excellent professor. You actually covered much of the neurophysiology that Jordan Peterson covers with lobsters. Fascinating stuff.

Oh , of course! I think I took you as you meant. You came across just fine. There's truth there and I got a chuckle out of it. Nice thing about bass fishing is that, although it's a challenge, they being so behaviorally diverse, they can be pretty darn aggressive hunters and you will have plenty of good days. And, yeah, I hate damaging fish too. But it's pretty rare, if careful. I'll be getting to a video someday on minimizing damage and handling fish. Been wanting to do that for some time. As to channel support, I have both a TNF Patreon page and PayPal account. Thanks for asking. Cheers, Paul

Thanks, Dave. Paul. Much more to come.

You bet! I've made the joke that I've been at this so long that my head just doesn't hurt anymore. :)

Thanks, enuary. I can't get enough of it either! Working to make this more of a full time, or main gig.

Hi, Michael. "Blue lining" sure is fun. I hope to do some of that. I used to do that with my dad, years ago. We weren't very sophisticated about it, just drove until we crossed a creek. Loved the surprises, and getting to know who live where. My dad was a great companion for such explorations. I've been doing some exploring at my new place here and am putting together... something to share. Tough leaving behind the waters I knew so well, but looking forward to the explorations ahead. Cheers, Paul

So now I'll be waiting for this little something to share...

Thanks, Raymon. I never actually "left". Was still shooting behavior footage, and replying to comments and questions. Just couldn't fit in much fishing. So I'm putting together some video "shorts" that I can put up. That way everyone will know I'm still kicking. Good topics should offer good content and not hamper my feature productions too much. Will see how it goes. Thanks again.

Thanks, MTX. I can't wait either! As to "stories", they would be in line with my info rich format. The interesting stories, to me, are ones that have taught me something important. Behind my "knowledge" lies more than library time, but is rich with events and anecdotes that resulted in light bulbs going on. My "stories" I think are worth sharing, would not be out of line with what I'm already doing, just in a different format. A format that hopefully will be quicker to produce than feature segments.

Hi, Wes. Thanks. It's a LOT of work. But... I have little interest in doing it any other way. I'm making the videos that I'd always wanted to see! :) Cheers, Paul.

Hi Troy! Thanks.

Hi, Michael. Gee. Thanks. Gosh. You are welcome. Cheers, Paul.

Thanks, Ed.

Hi, David. Thanks! Cheers, Paul.

Hi, Sven. Thanks so much. Glad you enjoy such details. More in the works. Cheers, Paul.

Thanks, Mike.

I am doing well. Just too busy. I just had to watch the weeks go by. That hurt.

Hi, Bin Li. Happy to hear. It's a lot of info, but I hope it'll set you in the right direction. Enjoy your fishing! Paul

Hi, Jay. Great to hear. Be sure to share with friends. Cheers, Paul

Thanks, velly. Great to hear. Cheers.

Hey, DJ. I've turned down sponsorships so far bc I simply don't have time to "work for them". I'm not against sponsorship. But they come in with unrealistic expectations. Kinda makes me roll my eyes when they say, "We've reviewed your channel and think you'd be a perfect fit for us." They obviously haven't seen my channel, nor have any idea what goes, and has gone, into it. They can advertise on my channel all they want, just don't ask me to be much involved. I'm not looking for more to add to my plate. I don't run a YT channel... to run a YT channel. That's enough additional work as it is.

@@thenatureoffishing7591 You have taught me a great deal and I catch more fish because of your information.

Hi, Larry! Bingo! You got it! Phew. I recently re-watched #3 and... wow... it is a head-full. I can see why it's actually caused some confusion, or created unnecessary angst. I tried to be up-front that we don't NEED specialty gear. Let your waters and experiences lead you, not the other way around. This fishing culture has become so consumer oriented. Yeah, it IS all marvelous technology. But, just like gambling in any venue, we are at risk of letting the complexity overwhelm us, and lead us into... an organizational nightmare. Run! I say. Run!! :) So... moving on down the tangled road... FC in moving water. In general, if you are chuck-n-winding, it may not seem much different than nylons. If you are fishing slow presentations, pauses, you'll notice what that line density means. Your line will sink. One way to keep lures from burying into rock and wood snags is to have a buoyant line that draws a lure upward when you draw on it. FC, with slower retrieves snags might be inviting trouble. The possible advantages though are being able to fish deeper slower pools more efficiently, bc that line density, given the time, will tuck beneath surface currents (the majority of current pouring into a pool remains with a couple feet of the surface), allowing you a potentially more direct connection to your lure. You'll have to experiment to see if there are serious advantages there for you, whether the advantages in "efficiency" outweigh the costs of doing business; I, for one, really dislike using lures. I can catch plenty of fish without losing old friends, and adorning the bottoms of our lakes and rivers with, essentially, trash. You decide where to put your money. If you have the curiosity, and the $ and time to back it, go for it! Experiment, and let me know what you find out! Seriously. Pleasure chatting. Paul

Hey Paul: Thanks for elaborating and continuing the conversation. I intend to extensively exercise my kayak bass fishing curiosity this coming summer as I just retired and I will have the time. As for resisting the consumer spending $, I have set myself some artificial constraints: No casting equipment - only spinning, No motor - only kayak, No electronic fish finders - only google maps on my iphone. Still leaves infinite possibilities.

Those aren't limitations! How about... you have to fashion your own rod from lakeside? Bone hooks only? :)) More seriously, and as you obviously are already hip to, within the limitations we set for ourselves is where satisfaction resides. I am hoping to get some yak fishing in this year too.

Thanks D.C. I think that name has already been taken. :)

D Cotto yes sir I agree Mr. Paul certainly has put numerous hours into research and development "AKA Fishing" lol and the science behind it. But Doug Hannon already owns that title R.I.P. Bass Professor 🙏. How about the name " The Bass Psychologist"

exactly... feels like I'm attending fishing school. Very informative!

Thanks, Francesco.

Hey GLF. Me too. Glad to be back in the editing chair. I have one planned, looking forward to putting it together. I do have 4 vids from last year that get into the conditions that define the transition. If you haven't seen them, check my Video Fishing Journal (VFJ) playlist: Summer to Fall Transition, Bluebird Blue, Crankbaits for Fall Bass, and Mid-Fall Crankbait Presentation.

The Nature of Fishing I have a few hours before I head out to my local fishing hole! I will spend it checking out those videos! I absolutely love your content!

Good. If you have any questions, I'm happy to try and answer them. Good luck this afternoon.

Hey, H&H. Sorry to be late responding. Guess I missed seeing this one. So, braids could be more visible in some cases, say when silhouetted. And heavy braids might be most visible. But, and here's a main point of my first line video, Line 1: I'm not convinced that seeing a line alarms fish. Seeing movement is what alarms fish, and a length of line, as skinny as it is, can move a lot of water. This is true of nylons, FC's, and braids, although braids can be mighty thin comparatively, and soft which helps in quieting splashdown. As to braids specifically, I know a top notch bass angler who tried fishing florescent yellow braid tied direct, no leader, and notice no drop in catch rates. This is my thinking at this point. Hope this helps. Paul

Hi, Dustin. You're welcome! Glad it helped. Cheers, Paul

Hi, IRONMAN. Thanks! Me too! Sometimes we just gotta do stuff ourself! :) Not everyone is into the details. It's a lot of work to figure it out and then explain it. All the best, Paul

@@thenatureoffishing7591 I live in a development in the Poconos. We have a small 50 acre Lake. And I especially love that you target smaller structures like you do. It gives me insight into how bass should react because right now I can see the males and females bumping trying to spawn,. . When you're on a 5000 acre Lake in Minnesota (where my moms from) it's more difficult to figure out where you're going. I'll join patreon and send you some loot as well because I appreciate the time that you put into doing and your explanation.

Small waters help me get right to business too. Same can be done on larger bodies, once you know them. But, there is a lot more running time and gas burned. Thanks, IRONMAN. I'm relying on Patreon and PayPal bc my kind of content can't keep up with the hungry YT algorithm. And I'm not looking to spend that time hawking tackle.

Hey, MD. Looks like I missed this one. DSing is a great way to catch bass in clear water. Followers can be tough, but they are interested. Good start. Try increasing speed, or killing it, when you see a follower. Other options: Finesse (like DS), speed, or change in conditions.

Thanks, Slick.

Hi wabassin. Yes, I do actually, in a surprising number of ways. I always listen to his thoughts and advice. And he's media savvy, and my tech guy too.

The thicker or stiffer the line, the more important diameter becomes. Fluorocarbon's esp, can be a real bear of a challenge, a headache, esp on spinning reels. Also, retrieve speed is important, and some really small spooled reels are too slow.

Thanks, Mike.

Hi, Arturo. Thanks! Good to hear. There is summer content. Go to my channel's Playlists, to Video Fishing Journals, and scroll down through them. My VFJ's literally journal my fishing trips, and run round the year, and come out as often as I can. My content tends to be pretty in-depth, so they take time to gather, interpret, and produce. This is how I run my fishing, being so keen on learning what's going on under the water. Would love to do more; There is SO much to cover. Not really interested in running a vlog. The Nature of Fishing (TNF) has four playlists: -Documentaries that give us a better understanding of the fishes themselves, currently focused on LMB; -Fundamentals that provides important background information, in depth. Info that comes up in our Video Fishing Journals (VFJ’s). -Fishing Tackle Know-How, where we take an in-depth look at the tools of the trade, taking the fish’s perspective into consideration; -Video Fishing Journals (VFJ’s), where we hit the water together and decipher the system, and the conditions & circumstances, in front of us. And to put our knowledge and decisions to the test. Like a good fishing journal, I think of my videos as archivable, that can be revisited down the road. Things really do cycle around again every year, and each outing adds some new wrinkles. And, the more we learn, the more we can get out of re-visiting in-depth content. Hope this helps. Be sure to share with friends. All the best, Paul

Thanks, rb. Best, Paul

Hi, Stan. Thanks. Hmmmm... That would be interesting. Since I want to get bass off my chest first, I'd probably do bream/sunfishes as a short; Possibly an how to ID piece. But, there's so many cool things about them, I can imagine I'd have an awful time keeping it short. :)

Yes Sir! The bass should fit right in according to the sunfishes’ family Centrarchidae, which has 8 genera, and 28 species native to North America which has bass listed in the group.

Me too! Believe me... it's burning a hole in my soul! :) It's the fun stuff. I fish all year long. No favorite times. I'm one who can go out there and see the sun come up, and then say "Darn it" as it sets. And I've spent a lot of time night fishing too. I have an amusing story about going in to work after a full night of salmon fishing. I always was one to burn every candle, at both ends! :) (Don't know an emoticon for "Egads!"). Each season is different and I find them all fascinating. There are times when the fish are easier to catch than others. It's always nice when the fish meet me part way. But I also enjoy figuring out a tough bite, whether I'm as successful as I'd like or not. It's takes a lot to wear away my interest. I have had times when, all of a sudden, I'm like, "What the heck am I doing out here??!! I should be home...mowing the lawn or something!" :) I'm OK adjusting expectations as the world dishes stuff out at me, and the fish. I take a lot of solace in the fact that the fish are being challenged too. And sometimes I actually figure something out. There's still a lot to be discovered out there.

Hi, Dennis. Yes, I guess it is a lot. Please won't worry too much about all the details at this point. There is absolutely no rush to try out a bunch of lines, or a need to find THE perfect line, at the get-go. Don't get sucked in! There's no need, esp when you are re-familiarizing yourself with your fishing. Such detailed coverage comes in on a need-to-know basis. The details come in after you get familiar with water, conditions, lure types, and fish. Then they'll make some sense. Fishing with others can help too. My advice: Nylon mono's are probably the most user-friendly lines. Stren is still a GREAT line, even after all these years. I'd say, go with what you know. And, you may never need to do anything else. FC's can be a bear to handle if you are getting back into fishing as they can twist, form loops, and jump off the spool more easily than nylon's. And, some river-specific advice: Beware of braids around water-logged wood cover, as it can really saw it's way into wet wood. Talk with other fishers, but I'd recommend a nylon (or "Copolymer") mono, of your choice; They are all really good. Hey, I've fished the Susque, for smallies and muskies. Just a great river. You are a lucky guy. Paul

@@thenatureoffishing7591 From what I can gather, I should be looking for the line with the least diameter which will get the job done, all else being equal. And, yes, the Susky is a river of snags and hidden perils so I wouldn't be inclined to choose any kind of braid though your suggestion to try co-polymer line makes a lot of sense. Thanks for your helpful reply.

"the least diameter which will get the job done". That is a good general statement, the only trick is knowing what the job actually entails. But, we find that out as we go. Nature of... fishing (LOL, i was going to say "Nature of the beast". Don't want to add any confusion here, but when I fished the Susque, and the Genesee River (NY), my catch rates went way up when I dropped to lighter (mono) lines. I often used either .008 (4lb) or .009 (6lb) there. Now, I didn't fish everywhere, so you'll have to decide for yourself. I found plenty of smallies (and some big ones) in the the stretches I fished that had relatively little wood. If you have one rig, than a M power rod with 8lb is a great slot to be in. But, if you have an UL spinning rig, throw it in the truck. ;)

@@thenatureoffishing7591 Awesome! I have both of those. Thanks.

Hi, BDB. Thanks! You know what they say, "Opinion is easy. Knowledge takes work." Best I can do in trying to understand what's going on down there. I love braid! I must say though, the softer versions of it can be a pain to manage, by knotting itself too easily! That gets old fast. I've been drifting away from those softer braids for that reason. Paul

The Nature of Fishing I use my teeth 🦷 to cut line😂 it slows me down. Fishing is serious business 😂

@@Redneckrino LOL! I did too. Until my dentist told me to stop. "Do you grind your teeth in your sleep?" "No, I just fish a lot." I use nippers now, so braid doesn't slow me down a that much.

Hi, Nemo. Great! Thanks! Feel free to share with friends. I do use snaps, for treble hook lures. It just makes swapping lures so much easier. They don't affect lure action, and may even help in some instances. I've never had a problem with them in terms of strength. Brands vary in quality/strength though, so, your being in saltwater, you might want to do a little research. Sampo, and Owner, are makers of higher quality terminal tackle. Good place to start. These are not snap swivels though, just snaps. I do use ball bearing snap swivels for spoons, but that's about all. Hope this helps. Cheers, Paul

@@thenatureoffishing7591 Cool! I tend to use swivel snaps mostly for spoons and sometimes popper as well, I feel that it helps me to not to get the line tangled in the hooks so easy. Then again, that might be more of an user error haha. Still, the main reason for asking about snaps was because you talked about how fish can see the line, and how this can affect overall presentation and also the decision of eating or escaping, so I thought maybe the snap would be seen as some not food looking object and affect the fish decision? I don´t know, but for what you said it seems that the benefits of snaps outwheights the cons. Thanks again, I will keep checking your channel for more info!

I don't think a snap is noticed by the fish. I'm a bit more leery about snap swivels bc of their added size/length adding to the lure. They may also add to the "fakeness" of a lure, but this is just speculation/the "heeby-jeebies" :) on my part. My point in the video was that fish being able to physically see line is not what matters. They do not know what line is. Instead, the issue lies in the disturbance that line can make in, esp on, the water. And, how a thick line may affect the way the lure behaves in the water, and/or the lure being sensed as a larger object than the "food" the fish was expecting. During an effective presentation, one mistaken as "food", the line is not part of the picture. It is not getting in the way of the ruse. Does this make better sense?

Cool! So, when you say drop swimming are you swimming/slow-reeling a drop-shot rig?

Hi, JW. Yes, if it’s the intermittent buzzing you are referring to, it’s some kind of interference or short I’ve been unable clear. Could be the mic, or maybe the jack? Someday… Paul

That's a U.S. Reel's 230SX. It's a super wide spool and small gear package design I've really liked. The U.S. Reel quality is only fair, and they went under a few years ago. It's held up for me, although I'm pretty good to my reels. The design can be found in some of the BassPro reels, and Pflueger has/had one too.

Hi, Cormac. Interesting twist. I love it. And I can fully see why. I too have experimented with ultra-thin braid (Nanofil) for nymphing tippets. The trouble I ran into was the Nanofil's poor (lousy) abrasion resistance. I've kicked around trying other micro-braids, but they are expensive. What braids have you liked for this? Cheers, Paul.

Hi Paul. Great to see you reply. Thanks. Spiderwire seems to be the most efficient as far as price, availability, and reliability. So I use the 0.18 10lb, or the 0.19 15lb. I sometimes tie a micro swivel and even a micro egg sinker 1/32 lead weight to "carolina rig" my nymphs. Logic and efficiency seem to cross over between fly fishing and spincasting.

Hey, Cormac. Thanks for the interesting comment. Cool ideas. Yes, there is a lot of potential crossover between angling disciplines. It's made me chuckle that they can be viewed so separately, due in large part to cultural rather than applicational norms/biases. Fishing is an awful lot about lines in water. Fisherman and fish are just at opposite ends, both scratching their heads: "Come on... Bite it!" / "What... the heck... is that?" :))

Hi, Jim. Thanks! I haven't done knots, yet, bc there are already so much out there on knots. I started one on the FG-Knot, since some people seem to have trouble with it. When I clear some time I'll probably put that one out. Paul

Hi, OA. I am not currently producing videos. My life has taken some turns that aren’t allowing me the freedom to produce the kind of content that satisfy me. It’s a fascinatingly complex world out there. Can’t wait to get back to it. I miss it. All the best, Paul

Hi, ATA. Man, I'm not the best person to ask about brands/formulas. I've used so few; They are prohibitively expensive to run through very many of them. And I believe that all will work ,as long as you know their tendencies. In my limited experience, all FC's I've used are prone to springing up loose loops, esp troublesome on spinning tackle. Nature of the beast, as I know it and I just have to be aware of it. I now use it as leader with braid, which helps with the handling, and is much more cost effective. Some people talk about the expensive formulas being better. I've never tried one. The two I've settled on were Berkley 100% and BPS XPS (the one I've used most). Berkley 100%, touted as their "bass" FC, more durable than their "walleye" Vanish, stiffer but still handled OK. It was however, underrated in break/diameter. So I used the "6lb" as an "8lb", the 8 as a 10. BPS XPS (KVD) rated high in an independent test so I tried it and it's what I use now. No complaints beyond the usual FC "springiness". When it went on sale I bought some from 4-17lb (the white box). However, they recently changed the formula (purple/yellow box). I haven't tried the new formula, but am not afraid to do so, paying attention to diameters. I can't speak about Tatsu. I would expect that it would be a safe, but expensive, bet. Using as leaders would help keep costs down, if that's an issue. My 2cents. If you discover something, lemme know. Best, Paul

Hi, NJ B. Thanks. Glad you too like deeper content. Share with your friends if you are willing. The clear sleeve is a piece of heat-shrink tubing, usually used to cover electrical connections. Any hardware store will have it. I've used surgical tubing and O-Rings and found heat-shrink to work best. 3/8" for larger stick-worms, and 1/4" for slim worms. I don't believe line color has much effect on fish. They just don't know what line is. What spooks them is line movement, either the line moving, and especially it moving the water around it; That's pretty much what Line 1 introduced. I generally use green lines though; the only real justification is to knock down line flash (against dark backgrounds) in the air that can be an issue under really high visibility conditions and shallow spooky fish. Otherwise, fluorescent lines can be a help for strike detection. Paul

I use heat shrink as well, usually in black.. Your material looked clear and I was curious if it was the relatively new G7 work protect tubes.

No, it's transparent heat-shrink. I got it at my local Ace Hardware. In a close-up photo the G7 looks like vinyl tubing, perhaps. If you could find it thin-walled enough.

Hi, Mark. You know, I did one. I made it a while back and decided not to post it bc it's redundant with what's already out there. The knot I use is the FG-Knot. It's an amazing knot. Some people find it a challenge. The trick is to keep all three strands (leader piece, main-line piece, and leader tag end) tight as you tie it. If you don't, you will find obvious gaps in your knot, that look like a hair braid. When the knot is done right, the wraps are snug together, and you will see no mono, just braid. And, pull it very tight at the end. Here's a good video on tying it: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-pjzUb5QRKuk.html It comes through the SaltStrong channel, a good channel with some real expertise there. SaltStrong also offers an alternative method I haven't tried.The FG has become popular (for good reason!) and, if you search it, there are a number of alternative ways to tie it out there now. Another knot people like is the Alberto Knot. Apparently it can be easier for some to tie. I have not used it, bc I'm so tickled with the FG. I believe it's an Albright derivative, which I have used. Good luck with it. It's worth learning. If you have any trouble with it, I can post mine. The only thing different from the SS video is I talk about keeping everything firmly tight as you wrap. In fact, I give a tug after each wrap to be sure. Cheers, Paul

Hi, Juan. I don't think line color matters much, to the fish. It appears to me that the problem doesn’t lie in their ability to physically "see" line -they can physically see any line. What spooks them is line moving the water. A line looks so thin to us when its between our fingers. But, a length of it has a great impact on, and in, the water. That’s what can alarm fish. They don’t know what alarmed them, but, the damage is done. Line color may help us in detecting strikes, but evidence I've seen and discussed with others, suggests that it means little to the fish. This is why I didn't talk about it in the videos. I've had enough questions about line color, and some other things, that I may have to do a follow up video addressing these questions. Cheers, Paul

Howdy, Gator! Thanks, glad I haven’t scared you away! Yet! :) That 3rd fishing lines vid was a bit dense I guess. Might have to break that one up. Although knots are the weakest link in the chain, good knots do not break. The Palomar is a good knot. And it sounds like you have given this consideration. The problem lies elsewhere. Sounds like you are onto it; You may have to add some shock absorbance to your set-up. Cheapest, least invasive routes: -Your Leaders: Nylon-based leaders can be severely weakened sitting in open sunlight, within a day’s time. I throw something over my reel spools, have even cut cloth patches to stuff into the spools tp protect them. If you have big fish, esp, you may be best off just changing out you leaders each, or every other, sunny outing. Switching to FC might help, and it might be worse. FC is UV resistant. But, it can also be pretty critical in terms of knots. Hook Sets: Just for fun, I’m gong to take a couple guesses as to your experience level: -You are an experienced, even old timer, whose used to straight mono’s. Plenty of shock absorbance there! -You are a younger fisher, and you’ve watched a few too many YT videos of hook sets! :) With braid, and a 20lb mono leader, there is precious little stretch there. I prefer braid for my soft-plastics too. My hook-sets with braid, though, are just a pop of the rod, or just reeling tight. The weight of the fish, and a sharp hook, does the rest. Do you carry a hook hone? Rod: -Adding a powerful, and fast, rod to the mix can make things worse on the we. Especially so if your hook-sets are at close range, which many soft plastics bites often are. This doesn’t not mean the rig you’re using is not appropriate. You could consider a slightly slower action, not necessarily less power. But, unless you are dying for a reason to tell your partner why you need a new fishing rod, the other things may just do the trick. My soft-plastics rods are about the only rods I own with “softer tips”. For everything I like power distributed all the way out. (This does not necessarily pertain to rod “action”). With soft plastics bass often hold the bait a bit, which can allow me to “weight the line” to check for life, without tipping them off. But, that “softer” tip is followed up by power, since soft plastics are so often used in cover. If you haven’t already, see my video, “Magic Sticks…” in my Tackle Know How “Playlist”. It demonstrates my soft plastics rods. Hope this helps. Paul

​@@thenatureoffishing7591 Thanks for the advice Paul!! This particular models taper is already on the slow side for a fast rod but I think your points on Nylon degrading in sunlight may be the problem. Close range hooksets and the effort I use on mine may also be the issue, as I'm more in the new school camp. I do live in Florida where braid is king but started off fishing Berkley big game 15lb. in the early 2000's before RU-vid. From trial and error I dont believe FC will hold up better...maybe a version marketed with high stretch and knot strength could work well? The co-polymer leader usually holds up for 10-20 fish on the heavy rod and 10-50 with the MH as we do have toothy creatures like gar and bowfin that will break you off clean like some scissors. More attention to the leader/knot condition should do the trick...although a pain lol Thank you again Paul!!

Yeah, I hear you. The maintenance simply has to be done. Kinda like the dishes lol. Cheers, Paul

Hi, Jerry. I doubt going much finer is going to help all that much; .008 is pretty thin in terms of the line being the culprit. Unless maybe your jigs are down below 1/32oz, and being fished below 10fow! No, something else is the culprit. "...reluctant little devils" LOL -yes! I have less experience with walleyes than with bass, but, from what I have seen and have come to suspect of them... If there is a fish that is most apt to have an "on/off button", it would be walleyes, with mature northern pike vying for the top spot. (Actually I think the pike, or musky, would take the top spot.) You may want to run this question by some of the walleye guys at, say, walleyecentral. My guess is, the consensus will be related to conditions and circumstances, periods when your walleyes are either up and active, or most vulnerable to angling. The neat thing is that, C&C can be lake-wide, or patchy. Meaning, sometimes a big change can either spark or knock down your fish's mood, lake-wide. And it can also be patchy, occurring in some areas and some groups of fish, and not others. This is one of the reasons a bad day can a be a good one for someone just around the next point from you. Paul

I don't really get to fish walleye, but like you brought up with the stretch of mono, i would think it would help with alot of the lures and methods I've watched people use for them. Trolling or even just casting cranks would seem to have better hook up odds with the stretch.

Hi, Derek. Thanks! With mono to braid, I do not match diameters. I choose braid based on the job: mostly strength and thickness. Too thin and it lacks abrasion resistance, and can be more difficult to handle. Also, thicker braids float better, and thinner get drawn subsurface better; Getting picky here though. The leader is matched to conditions (C&C), and to lure weight and hook wire thickness. No need to match mono to braid diameters. Mono to mono though may require different knots depending on diff in diameters. Hope this helps. Paul

@@thenatureoffishing7591 Hi Paul. Thanks for clarifying. So essentially for example if i'm using 3/16 jig with a 3/0 or4/0 hook I should use a braided line that is between 30-40lbs test(0.011-0.013 diameter) and pair it with a mono leader with an 0.011-0.013 diameter which is 10-17 lbs test. But I can play around with the mono leader diameter say if its a clear bluebird day vs an overcast low light/low water visibility conditions? Sorry for the lengthy reply but I think I've been spooking fish because i've been using a 20lbs test mono leader which I now understand is overkill. I fish in some waters that have pike in them which is why I have been going with a 20lbs leader, but I think this has been spooking the bass that I'm targeting.

@Derek Lefebvre 20lb mono is likely overkill, unless there is heavy cover to contend with. In general, go as light, or as heavy, as needed. Braid is a "mainline" and often stronger that the leader we'll be using, and indeed stronger than the rod. I guess I'd list braid choices this way: UL 6-8lb; L10-15lb; M 15-20lb; MH 20-50lb; H 40-65lb; XH 50-80lb. Leaders do not need to match braid. Think of them separately, as if you were just spooling up straight mono. Pick what's appropriate, and tie a length on to your braid. As to pike, you could go to finer higher quality wire, a short (8") piece of heavy mono, or no bite section at all. Depending on how ravenous the pike are that day. Pike can be funny, esp larger ones, on or off bite. You can cut down on pike strikes by avoiding certain lures, esp flashy ones. Any heavier leader though will likely dec bass bites, esp the clearer and more cover free the water is. Hope this helps. Paul

@@thenatureoffishing7591 Thanks Paul for helping me out with that. Greatly appreciated. Keep up the great work on the channel!

Hi, Bob. Sounds good. I have braid on most of my rigs. For shore-fishing, the increased casting distance is especially helpful. As is the ability to change mono leader type and diameter. So, yeah, I'm using braid most of the time, and carry small spools of leader materials I meet need on a given outing. Paul

@@thenatureoffishing7591 HEY, how long of mono leader do you use for top water?

​@@peteunknown7835 Hi, Pete. I generally use a pretty short piece, 4ft to 6ft will do it.

Hi, Random. I don't think line color matters much, to the fish. It appears to me that the problem doesn’t lie in their ability to physically "see" line -they don't know what line represents. What spooks them is line moving water. A line looks so thin to us when its between our fingers. But, a length of it has a great impact on, and in, the water. That’s what can alarm fish. They don’t know what alarmed them, but, the damage is done. Paul

Hi, Matthew. Real good question. What I called "copolymers" and how the industry uses the term are a bit different. I did mention this in... one of... the line videos, but there's a lot stuffed into them, so it'd be easy to miss. Both nylon and fluorocarbons are polymers. What the fishing line industry calls "Copolymer" lines are generally mixes of different nylons, or their kin, each with different properties that together can offer a mix of those properties that a single nylon type can't cover. That's the idea anyway. Then came FC. And, it is now possible to mix FC's with nylons/"coplymers" to make... FC copolymers. These are usually labeled FCs, or FCs mixed with "copolymers", or "hybrid". The name "Copolymer" seems to have remained with the original description. FC is different in terms of properties so I can understand maybe not wanting to confuse things. Didn't stop me though did it? As I had wanted to get out up-front in the line videos, all lines are... amazing. Hard to go very wrong with almost any. All will catch you fish. From there, properties do vary. Ok... getting directly to your question... You can safely lump "Copolymer" lines with nylon-based monos. Same basic properties are at play: buoyancy, UV vulnerability, weakening when wet, being primary. The engineering has come far enough along now that "Copolymers" are pretty much dominating the "mono" market. Some old mono stand-by's, have been reformulated over the years and I wouldn't be at all surprised if those have some CoPoly now part of the newer versions. Those old standby's are still big sellers (I'm still a Trilene XT user) so if such changes were made, the manufacturer's are probably not going to highlight that. I could tell a few XT stories myself, including some testing, that show how XT has changed over the... decades. And for the better. If you want to go with a "Mono" (that is, a nylon-based monofilament), you can pick any old time "Mono", or any new-fangled "Copolymer" and you'll be in the same ballpark. If you see FC in the description, usually right up front on the box, you are looking at a different animal; An animal with useful properties of it's own. Hope this helps. Paul

The Nature of Fishing Thanks Paul. I think I missed the first installments of your line videos. I appreciate the response. For the most part I use fluorocarbon with the exception of topwater and some spinnerbait applications. I like to stretch the line before use which has helped with memory issues along with line conditioner of course. In the past couple of seasons I have used braid with a fluoro leader for drop shotting which has allowed to me to conserve line and avoid flouro hazards with spinning tackle. I will stay open minded as for copolymers in the future. Thanks again for the response and have enjoyed your scientific approach to the sport!

Hi, Matthew. I've fished nightcrawlers for a number of species over the years, a number of ways. I would first consider the line needed first, expecting that to depend on depth, cover, and water conditions. Possibly, a ball of worms might be "weighty" and active enough that the line might not bother the fish too much when beneath the water's surface. Rod would follow line, although I could see using a longer rod with a light tip, and I rarely like a soft/"wimpy" tip. This way you can "weigh the line" in feeling... for life, after a possible take. If I were looking into a specialty rod for such fishing, I'd probably like a light steelhead rod, or a Euro-type carp rod? I've never fished a wad of worms like that but I've heard of others doing it, for big trout, catfish, and for bass in some CA waters. Are you in CA by any chance? And I would guess your are right that all that movement would be attractive. Paul

@@thenatureoffishing7591 no man I'm in west virginia and i basically fish them like i would a plastic worm. I've considered trying the same thing with 2 stick baits

@@matthewjackson2853 Interesting idea. Cool that you aren't afraid to experiment. That's where the cool stuff comes from. :)

Hi, Ken. I use 10lb braid as a L, or "finesse" line. I usually use it with "6 to 8lb" (.009 to .010) mono leaders. I then jump to 20# braid for M rigs: ("8 to 14lb"; .010 to .014). Then to 30lb for MH (.012 up). And 50lb for H (.015 up). Oh, I also use 8lb braid for UL with 4lb (.008") lines, but the 10lb will suffice here too. Hope this helps clarify. Fishing can be surprisingly technical, and for good reasons, that will become apparent as you go. And line is in the thick of it. But you don't need to break the bank! Pretty cool that braids allow us to cover a range of leaders well. If you had only one rod, I'd suggest using a good 8-carrier braid (like Daiwa J-Briad, or Sufix 832, or others), which can actually handle, very well, many L to MH applications. Pow! You're done! As you go, you'll learn what you need to add, or refine. Let your waters and experiences create your shopping lists, rather than "dock talk" and advertisements. Cheers, Paul

Hi, TG. No. Unless you are using a mighty short leader, the swivel won't go through the guides of your rod. Also, line twist is much less an issue with braids. Swivels can be a helpful when using mono's, esp FC mono's, with lures that tend to twist lines. But they should be ball-bearing swivels and either right at the lure or with a short leader.

@@thenatureoffishing7591 Thank you for your response!

Hi, Keith. I LOVE the FG Knot. Amazingly strong and so fine. Some like the Alberto, saying it's easier to tie. I haven't tried it. The FG is simply a godsend, compared with the double uni.

The Nature of Fishing - thank you for the advice. I’ll research both.

The Nature of Fishing - My goodness that’s a lot of weaving for the FG knot.

Worth every wrap. ;) The video I liked was from Salt Strong. Give it some practice. If it's frustrating, give the Alberto a shot.

The Nature of Fishing - For sure. Thanks again

Brian, I don't use a C-rig much here. Bottom's too soft in most places. When I have, I've used braid with a mono leader.

@@thenatureoffishing7591 Thanks.

Yeah, agreed. Braid/leader is the most versatile, maintenance free, and cost efficient. I go that route most often.

@@thenatureoffishing7591 Going out in the big O tomorrow I just did a quick trip on my local fish area. Nice like how you responded back Thanks

Ah! The Big O. Never been there but from what I've seen, that is braid water for sure. Lucky you!

@@thenatureoffishing7591 Yes I am 35 minutes away west of me

Ah! Big question. Short answer, from me, I don't concern myself with color too much. Too many competing variables. I have my ideas, but it would take more than one video to offer my reasoning behind those ideas. I'll get around to it someday, since it is such a frequent question. This last, in itself, is a tip-off to why color is so important to anglers. It's because we are primates. ;) If you want to read a longer (incomplete) response, see my response to John Williams in VFJ16 (Video Fishing Journal #16). My channel makes use of YT's "Playlists", so I have one for my video fishing journals. John had asked about the dark lure/dark day idea. Cheers, Paul.

@@thenatureoffishing7591 depends on what you use colours for I guess. The main original purpose of the colour of a bait might be to catch the fisherman. My personal take on it is visibility. In greenish water a green bait is more visible whereas in a peat-coloured water red is more visible. But when do you go for visibility and when do you go for stealth or natural (match the hatch). There have been tests that suggests that in water with really low visibility drab or even transparent baits outfish brightly coloured baits. One theory being that while the bait is easier to see the fish doesn't see it until it's very close and gets alarmed by a brightly coloured bait as the source of the commotion instead of something barely visible (which would be the normal situation in such conditions). It's difficult to get a final answer to the colour question. I have experienced myself that I couldn't get bit on a copper coloured spoon whereas my buddy was constantly hauling fish in on the exact same model of spoon in a brass colour. After around half an hour I changed into a different spoon I brass colour and I started catching at the same rate. If we both were fishing copper we would probably have gotten the impression that there were no fish there...

​@@svenselberg7343​ Yes, there are lots of anecdotes out there. Got a few myself. And I agree that there are reasons behind color choices. That said, for me, color is one of the last choices I make, behind basic controls, lure type, action, line considerations, and the conditions & circumstances the fish in front of us are experiencing. Because of all the potential variables, I don't believe that there is "a final answer". I've seen fleeting ones, a few that are reproducible. But, a lot of anglers have been fooled by singling out color as the, or even at times, a, main factor. Funny thing though, color is high on my list when I'm perusing a tackle shop lol! I'm often apt to choose the one that makes me go "Ooooooooo!" :) Thanks for the thoughtful comments. I hope to do a video on color one day. I'm sure that would create some fun, and possibly heated, conversation. Oh, yes... I do introduce color vision, its primary function, in my upcoming documentary on the development of behavior in largemouth bass, from egg to adult. Cheers, Paul.

Hi, Everfalling1. Varies, but very little is usually needed. The reasons for a leader have little to do with fish seeing a line. Primary is usually bc braid is not terribly abrasion resistant. A length of mono, of some type, at the fishing end, does the hard work. For much of my fishing, I use just enough leader that I can re-tie lures a number of times before the leader needs to be changed to a fresh one: 4 to 5ft is fine. I’ve gone shorter. I may go longer if, say, I’m fishing deep, and/or will be in windy conditions, where a long fluorocarbon leader is advantageous. These might be 20 or 30ft. Some really big fish fishers, in saltwater say, suggest having a leader that is short enough that the knot between the leader and braid does not run through the guides, and become abraded by the guides. This is not an issue for most freshwater fishing, esp with modern tiny knots like the FG and Alberto, except possibly for really big powerful runners like salmon or big steelhead. Hope this helps. Cheers, Paul

@@thenatureoffishing7591 I think you mentioned 3-5 foot for one of your leaders. Is that normally a good rule of thumb?

@@Everfalling1 I'd say so. Works for me. Paul

Hi, Greyhunter. Thanks so much. To your suggestion: Were you hoping to see specific brand/lines suggestions? My take has been that all lines are very good, and nearly interchangeable, within basic type: Braids, nylons, and FC's. Sure there are some differences, and I hit these in Lines 2. If one looks at the forum discussions about line recommendations, so many lines are mentioned as favorites that I suggest that we choose a line, keeping in mind the manufacturers descriptors, and run with it. Just for the record, I've used Trilene XT for decades. I've also used Berkley Sensation. I settled on BPS KVD fluorocarbon a while back, from published test results, and it's been a good line for me. However, the packaging an apparently formulation has changed and I haven't used the newer version. Berkley 100% has been a good bass line although it's under-rated as to break strength/diameter. For braids I've found the PowerPro's to be good handling braids. Some braids are too soft, leading to tangles in lighter break weights: SpiderWire Stealth, and Daiwa J-Braid8 are in this category. For light "braids" for my finesse fishing, I've gone to Gliss, and like it a lot. Hope this helps. Cheers, Paul

@@thenatureoffishing7591 Sorry, after reading my initial reply I can see in trying to keep it short I definitely wasn't really clear. I was thinking along the lines of a person getting into fishing. With all that information I could see them getting overwhelmed and I thought a video where perhaps you went at it as if you were going to go out and purchase a new fishing line you had never used for the first time, just as a person getting into fishing would have to do. Actually speak to your thought processes as your looking over the marketing speak on the packages and talk through what you are really thinking, not what the packaging may be saying. I liked this video because it is worth watching again and builds a solid base of knowledge rather than just saying, "This has worked good for me on my lakes so you should buy it too." So much info can bring confusion at times, where watching someone apply it and talk you through it who actually has a foundation for the decisions they make could be very helpful. However, I may be way off, which wouldn't come as a surprise to me...lol! Anyway, watched your video on pitchin in the jungle and really enjoyed it. You are a brave man sir!

@Greyhunter Thanks for calling attention to the perspective of someone coming at this new to fishing. No, you are not off base. Everyone is where they're at and everyone learns a bit differently. There is a lot of info out there, much of it redundant however, esp from marketers on what you "should" buy. I'm trying to get at the "why's" underneath it all, in all my videos, in order to actually simplify things. I've had to do it for myself, so that's where I'm coming from. In terms of tackle to buy, it can be as complicated as one wants to make it. But, as I said in the video, all lines are very good. Beyond that is tweaking stuff. Beyond that is splitting hairs. Hope this helps. Paul

Hi, Leef. Yes. And yes. I do not believe fish are put off by opaque lines, visually anyway. A friend who catches a LOT of bass experimented one year and noticed no catch rate difference using straight braid, in fluorescent yellow to boot. The drawback is the lack of abrasion resistance of braids compared to monofilaments. Monos also offer some stretch, and sink rate (fluorocarbon), that can be advantageous. Hope this helps.

@@thenatureoffishing7591 thank you very helpfull!!!

Hi, Jeff. Yes, there's always more work to be done. Pluggin' away at it. What specifically are you wondering about? Paul

Hi, R123. I'm not all that big on line color. Bright lines are easier for anglers to see. Not sure the fish care all that much. The one thing in terms of line color I've done that can matter a LOT, is dying my fly-lines. That line flash is a serious fish spooker. For conventional tackle, I'm not convinced it makes an appreciable difference, to the fish anyway. Paul

What "what?" :)) "strike detection"? "presentation"?

Hey, TG. Yes, that is an excellent topic. Why do bass strike, or try to eat, "weird" looking lures? I'll be hitting this, how bass determine what's "food", in my coming documentaries. The next one up, planned to be out this spring, is on the development of behavior, and will introduce that question --set the groundwork for it. The short answer is that fish, bass esp it seems, have a wide range of prey characteristics that can possibly trigger them to strike. But, those triggers are buried under a host of other factors that weigh in on those decisions.

@@thenatureoffishing7591 Thank you for your response!

Hi, uB. Yeah, I know. I hear you. We all have to decide how far we want to take... anything. The world is a BIG place. I'm guessing you know that one screw driver just isn't going to solve all that goes wrong out there. And we often end up modifying, even inventing, tools. As to my willingness to go deep, I got tired of reading articles and watching videos where the author/presenter, just at the critical moment, shrugs and says, "...depends on conditions". "What conditions", I'd shout! So, it appears that, sometimes, you've just gotta do it yourself. Hence, this channel. Yeah, it's not going to be for everyone. I've come to joke that, I've been at this so long, it just doesn't hurt anymore. Saying that, is a reminder that it's time to take a break here, grab something to eat, and visit with my family. Cheers, Paul.

uBreakIt iRepairIt I’m with you on that

Hi, Jacob. Good question. I didn't discuss that bc much of the time, I'm not convinced of its importance. I generally use green lines. Might just fit my personality more than anything else for most fishing circumstances. I also fish some bright fluorescent lines too though, when visual strike detection is primary, or... I'm feeling garish. :) Sorry, I'm getting a bit punchy here. Time to grab some dinner, feed my son, he's home sick today. Cheers, Paul

Thanks, Dale.

Hi, Roland. Thanks. Soft rods just haven't often panned out for me. I fish CBs more often like a jig, than I do chuck-n-wind, at speed. I suspect that the soft rod idea works best when CBs are fished chuck-n-wind, at speed (and fully barbed). The ideas that "bass set the hooks themselves", that detection doesn't matter with CBs, and that it's easier to keep hooks in with a soft rod, seem to pan out best for me in simple chuck-n-wind circumstances, and with barbed hooks. Especially when the fish are deeper, which keeps lotsa line in the water. Risks go up for too much tension, when fish are on a short line. Just gotta know this I guess, regardless of rod action. Realize I'm not talking... frog gear here. That said, I also use MH F gear at times too, when fishing CBs in heavy vegetation. There we need the power to rip em through. This idea is not unique to me. It is possible to go too rigid for treble hooks. The trouble with trebles isn't length of the hook point, as much as it is gap width. Comparing a #4 treble with a #3/0 jig or worm hook is not a fair comparison. When was the last time either of us used a #4 hook T-rigging, or on a "bass jig"? Also, at work is that each tine on a treble can work against the next, there being no give between them, allowing hook points to get twisted out. Lastly, I feel as though I can keep appropriate and consistent pressure on fish, regardless whether I’m in a tube, boat, or on the bank. My rods don't bend any deeper bc I'm in a boat, or on the bank. And, I’ve actually used the same outfits on boats, and from shore. Appreciate the comment, Roland. Someday, I may get a bona-fide CB rod. But it just can't be a noodle, like many I've seen. No thanks, been there done that. I can see a moderate, even slow rod, but I'd want power all the way out. Just softening the tip hasn't panned out for me. Paul

Well to each their own and as long as you land them. I do however have MH moderate tip rod for CBs that dive in excess of 20ft but anything shallow I throw with medium rod.

Roland, I very much appreciate the advice. And I'm not closed to your suggestion. When you mention "large" fish, I picture you... S of the M-D line, where LARGE bass actually exist at enough frequency one could actually run into one on any given outing. With BIG bass, I could see both hook penetration depth and hook gap being a potential issue. We simply don't have enough of those really big bass here to have had that come up. Here in CO, on average, an 18" bass in unmanaged waters is 8 yrs old. At your suggestion, I think my next build will be a CB stick, something with that 'give' you recommend, power well distributed, but... it ain't going to be no wimpy tip rod! :) I gave up on those a long time ago. Thanks for the advice, Roland. Paul.

Hi, Timothy. Yes, it does. It takes a bit to soak in water. Then it sinks slowly. Trilene has always been a good line. At one time, that, and Stren, was all there was. There are LOTS of good lines nowadays. Not sure any have got all that much better. A Berkley rep once told me that Sensation he felt was their best formula. I've been using both XT and Sensation. Paul

@@thenatureoffishing7591 XT is thinner now, as strong ?

Hi partner. Thanks. Yeah, I know. It’s easily possible to go too rigid, considering hook gap-sizes and the mass of CBs; I'm not talking frog gear here. But, the ideas that "bass set the hooks themselves", that detection doesn't matter with CBs, and that it's easier to keep hooks in with a soft rod, seem to pan out best for me in simple chuck-n-wind circumstances, esp at speed. And especially when the fish are deeper. I like a fast M-power rod for most of the crankbaiting I do. I fish shallow heavily-fished public waters for the most part, the majority with pretty dense vegetation. So, I fish CBs as much like a jig, as I do how most people think of fishing a CB -C-n-W, at speed. Here, the importance of detection and hook-setting, reappear. Some of my waters get hit hard enough by other fishers that the bass’s mouths can get mutilated by poor hook removal. Over 2 seasons, I went barbless on my cranks. When in the boat, those barbless hooks simply fall right out. And this is interesting: With a F rod, I lose virtually none of those fish during the fight, except the occasional fish I can’t keep from leaping clear. With a softer, weaker rod, it’s a lot easier for those fish to gain the momentary tension loss that allows them to shake the hooks, even while underwater. It can be maddening. I use MH F gear at times too, at times, when fishing CBs in heavy vegetation. There we have to have the power to rip em through. This idea is not unique to me. I’m sure I could probably find a modern “CB rod” that does all the tricks. Someday, I’ll look back into it. Thanks, for the comment, partner. Paul

I meant Texas rig....I fish shallow, weedy lakes on Long Island. One technique not mentioned in regards to soft plastics is the use of a finesse style weedless neko rig.

Hi, Christopher. Yeah, I'll say. Gotta earn a living though. I just reached the light at the end of the tunnel and should be back in business for the foreseeable future.

LI, and NJ, have some nice bass waters, with good growth potential it seems. I've yet to try the Neko rig. What do you like about it? I assume the same lines as for wacky would work?

@@thenatureoffishing7591 What I like about it is that it can be made weedless, it "stands" upright, has a slim-vertical profile, and also you can use different weights that effects it's initial fall rate and how it reacts when working it. When the fish are picky, it's sometimes been the difference between a steady pick to even preventing the skunk. Great finesse technique.

Thanks, Christopher. I'll give it a try. Sounds like a good rig for my waters.

LOL... Thanks for the encouragement. Gotta clear some things off my plate. Working on it. Wuold love to develop this channel. Cheers, Paul

Hi, Jorge. No tests here. I'll let the fish do that. ;) Yeah, my stuff is pretty dense. I kind of think that's what "content" is. I actually have places I want to go on this channel, explain why fish bite, and... more commonly, why they don't! To get there I need to get certain stuff out of the way, before I feel I can move on. For YT, it would actually be better (algorithm-wise) to break things up. But, I'm heading somewhere in each video, and to break them up into smaller sections might just end up having people miss chunks, or wonder, "Why are we talking about this?" Anyway, I'm still finding my way in this medium. Feedback is greatly appreciated. Paul

Hi, Jerry. Yeah, I know. Trying to dig deep into the "bodies of work" in the sciences, and bringing it into the fishing world is a challenge. My wife reminds me of it, each time. Funny thing is, the fishing lines videos were not meant to be scientific. My other videos that deal with fish behavior bring a lot of science in bc... there's no one else out there doing that kind of work. Fishing rods can only take us so deep in terms of understanding what really goes on down there. I recently re-watched #3 and... wow... it is a head-full. I can see why it's actually created angst. I tried to be up-front that we don't NEED specialty gear. Let your waters and experiences lead you, not the other way around. If, and only if, we want to go deeper... here it is, for when you are ready for it. It's a video I think people will need to revisit over time. I'm also considering breaking it up into separate videos so its not so overwhelming. Thanks so much for the feedback. I'm still finding my way here. Cheers, Paul