It’s an axe, not a chefs knife. I just bought an x25 this morning and used it for 6 hours straight and it is hands down the best splitting axe I’ve ever used.
@@J2I3H yeah I don’t know what this guy is talking about the blade chipping and rolling. I split about 3 cord’s worth with mine so far and my blade never chipped or rolled. He must’ve hit something with it that was embedded in the wood or something
Same here , have a little one like that and a 8lb fiskars been using them for three years and love them to death. Way better then any other mal or ax in the market. And we chop enough would to heat a 2000 sq ft shop plus a decent size house in a Illinois winter. So it is not like we dont use them.
@@dillonqaphsiel7977 Bro, did you marry a fiskars axe and then it divorced you and took your kids and house and left you with nothing? Why do you argue with every commenter that was happy with their fiskars? I have used one fore years with no problems. You have to work with it, maintain it. Of course there are better axes, but for non professionals and for this price, it's hard to find much better. Is it so hard to believe that people have used this axe succsessfully?
@@user-zn9ke8um8s lol soft metal - doesn’t hold an edge - easily bent handle - can’t replace handle - having to buy new one instead of keeping the same axe for life. lol keep coping 😂 Edit: 🖕
@@Masterkuush used plenty of axes. Axes you could work with for a life time and never have any issues. You over here bragging about an axe that breaks easily.
Actually, the blade of the axe is soft. It’s designed to be dinged and slightly chipped, as it’s soft metal. I have had my X27 almost 12 years with zero issues, the bit looks way, way worse than yours there, and it blows through wood as good as it did on day 1.
@@dillonqaphsiel7977 you don't want an axe head that is too hard or if you hit anything at all other than soft wood, it will chip really bad and shatter. Softer metals dull quicker but are heartier when it comes to using it day to day splitting and chopping wood. Especially for a splitting maul and splitting axe, you don't need it to be perfectly sharp. It will do the job as it is, and last longer overall than an axe with a head that is too hard. You really don't want a piece of the axe head chipping off and getting embedded into one of your body parts. It sucks. My grandfather knows all too well how much that sucks, and by extension, I can see how much it sucks.
@@dillonqaphsiel7977 what do you suggest? I keep seeing a lot of people using fiskars x25, x27, and their 8lb maul to split wood. Don't see many other people using other brands unless they got the money for it, and even then I've seen comparisons between the more expensive ones and the fiskars axes, and the fiskars usually either perform as good or better than almost anything else more expensive, and blows anything that's cheaper or in its price point out of the water.
It’s a great axe if you take into consideration how soft the steel is and judge yourself accordingly. Often rounds have dirt/rocks on the ends, if you strike on these dirty ends you will inevitably end up with edge damage
I started using mine just as it came, with the edge thin but flat not razor sharp. It worked better then and now than any other axe Ive ever used. still using it, never sharpened it even once.
@@SyntheticStuntMan I've got a budget splitter axe that has a blade shaped like it's really good, but I have to constantly use my grenade splitter to open the logs up due to having logs that have loads of knots. I think I'm watchin too much of the x27 like on a shopping channel when they show knives that can cut tin cans and when i use it they are blunt as a wooden ruler! Hahaha. Really tempted to buy this x27.
@@deputyvanhalen6386 you arent likely to find any splitter thats good on knotted up wood...Ive never seen one that worked on knots. on knotted wood I usually use my chainsaw to cut it to half the length I normally burn then notch it with the chainsaw and split in that notch with my splitting axe. that works most of the time.
Some people buy a baseball glove and expect it to be game ready....some people buy a fiskars axe and expect the edge not to need a quick touch up before use. The missed step is a tiny bit of knowledge. It's a shame you didn't know that and have given a bad review, they are a great axe that will serve for years after being initially prepped.
Lightly blunt the very sharp factory edge then reprofile it to a move obtuse angle. It only needs a small secondary angle to support the new working edge. The reason for the factory edge rolling then chipping is because they are ground to a very long narrow wedge, the working edge is too thin and has no supporting angle.
@@m3nathan The steel at the apex is fatigued from the grinding process too. It simply needs to be slightly convexed with a sharpening puck and this doesn't happen. Like you said it just needs slightly stronger geometry at the apex and it's all good. I prefer a slight convex to a microbevel like you're describing. Hand sharpening an axe will always lead to a slight convex and that's what you want
It's a fine axe. Nothing wrong with it at all. The steel is a little bit on the softer side but it holds up absolutely fine for splitting once you knock that factory edge off. Like a minute or 2 with a sharpening puck to barely convex the edge and get rid of the compromised steel right at the apex is all that's needed. I've had the older all black 37" version for like a decade and this never happens to me unless I bury the axe in the dirt or the wood is literally covered in sand and rocks etc. Anyone watching should do themselves a favor and disregard this "advice", you'll never want to use a maul again after using the Fiskars. I've split every type of wood that grows in my area with these things and they work extremely well. Everything from Hickory, Oak and Ash to Red Cedar. Keep it out of the dirt and don't smash it through rock covered wood and it will hold up just fine. This guy is acting like this is a cutting axe
@obelixpfeifenreiniger2863 I have the older version of the x27 that's all black and I have the x25. I've beat the snot out of them, especially my older one. They're extremely durable axes. Like I said in my original post, if you're halfway competent at sharpening, just take 2 minutes to knock the factory edge off just a little bit (I'm talking a very slight microbevel) to get rid of the compromised steel at the apex and toughen the edge. I promise if you do that the edge won't take damage unless you put it in the dirt or hit a rock etc. like any axe would. I have their hatchet and the x11 too. All of them are very good. There's nothing wrong with them at all
@@maxsanchez2339 and what of everyone else who buys one expecting it to function only for it to fold like it was made as a third grade arts and crafts project? And when they reach out to Fiskers they will say 🖕
I have two of the x27's and the sledge hammer. I had my black x27 for almost 6 years, i bought the orange x27 earlier this year and the steel rolled on me too. After touching it up, it holds its edge now. I almost thought it was a different steel than my black one, it seems to be a lighter color (grey) on the steel.
Ive had a little x15 bouncing around in my truck for years now. Cleared fallen trees from roads. Split firewood. Gotten a Lot of use outta that thing. Best cheap little axe I've ever bought and if it ever gets ruined/lost/stolen its no problem to replace.
@@SammyBoyo nope just recognize Fiskars as the trash they are. A 20 Walmart axe will last your whole life but these things will break like an expensive Lego set left with an unsupervised child
@@SammyBoyo bruh they are made out of soft metal 🤦 if your doing any real work with them they can and will break day one. Ever seen a logger or a firefighter use one? Of course not.
I got two Fiskars, X5 and X7 and they have held Up very well, it's true that steel is a bit soft, but it's good to resharpen easy and get back to business... Today just ordered a Fiskars X10 cause i need a bit more power to process bigger pieces of wood.
Cheap axe? Thats funny It cost a month of minimum wage in my country There are way more cheaper options than this Ofc its not chinese made but dont get me wrong Fiskars is a good product but its just waaayyy too expensive here 😅
I have an x17, i sharpened it really well one time years ago, it has taken some serious punishment. Not hitting the ground! I mean cutting wood, for years and years and years. The best axe I've ever owned..
I think the edge is just weakened from whoever put the edge on it and grinded it too hard and let it get too hot. Probably won't happen again after you reprofile
Or he was splitting on the ground and running it into the ground. Improper form. These fiskars axes are world class indestructible. I smell a rat. To be fair to the guy who made the video, the edge may have been a tad too sharp, the wood he split may have been very hard. But regardless, it ain't the fault of the axe, ultimately. Good gear
Nah the edge just needed to be hit with a sharpening puck to remove the fatigued steel at the apex and slightly convex it and it would have been fine. It looks like he probably buried this thing in the dirt or the wood he was splitting was filthy. I've had one for a decade and they hold up fine with a proper edge on them
Some people don't teach their kids to tune a factory edge. 🙄 This axe isn't beveled from the factory, which is obvious upon inspection. Give it a few passes on a carbide sharpener and a little filing if you like a convex edge. Tbh it splits fine without any tuning too. Learn how to use your cutting tools and they'll serve you well. Oh, and stop driving your edge into the ground.
Sounds like you shouldn't be around an axe if you're complaining that bad about a 50$ axe with a lifetime warranty. Try not hitting the ground and you won't have any problems.
These axes DO chip if you're hitting a lot of Hybrid wood, seen it happen myself here on the East Coast, but it's an extremely sharp blade, just part of the game.
That’s crazy cause i hit a rock with mine and then processed to chock firewood for the next 3 hours, didn’t even notice. Be careful with it it’s an axe not an xacto knife
Wrong. I've split many cords of wood with that axe. It's straight up amazing. That guy doesn't know what he's doing. Guarantee you he sliced through the wood like butter and then right into the ground.
Love that everyone before me has mentioned to not hit the ground. User error... "My airbags deployed on a brand new car during its first accident." Checks out
They have lifetime warrantys. I got the fiskars maul 10 months ago, snapped at the neck earlier today on bamboo roots, and got a shiny new one for free
I'm back to tell you you are wrong the fiskars splitting axe is king. I have over a dozen splitters and nothing comes close to fiskars. Try to keep it out of the ground
You sound like a baby, do you stop splitting if you see sparks? Do you need to be able to cut hair with your axe? There is nothing wrong with it... if you don't want it ship it to me, I'll pay the shipping.
I bought that hatchet and share the same experience after one frozen piece of maple. Now it is just for camp trips in the middle of the summer 😂. Junk!
I had a Fiskars A6, a hatchet same size and shape as the X7. Chopped a dry piece of beech wood. Deep dents along the edge. To sharpen that out makes the edge substantially thicker and less effective at chopping. Maybe they are not all the same regarding the heat treatment. The steel is a bit softer for sure. I do know that it's advised to sharpen the edge a bit convex before using it. Maybe that would have protected the edge..?
I have been using Fiskars products for decades and have not had any trouble with them at all. I have a hatchet that has split way to big bits of wood i have been using it just about every week for 15 plus years never sharpened it and its still in great shape.
Io sono 5 anni che uso una x25 e ci spaccio dai 40 a 60 q di legna l’anno, io gli passo la lima due volte l’anno perché è un materiale tenero rispetto alle ascie comuni,rimane comunque una delle migliori ascie in commercio
I’m specifically after an axe or hatchet that can be used probably 90% of the time one handed to split hard dry knotty Eucalypt wind fall branches that we have scattered all over the forest floor. I want to split the branches by chopping them along the side of the branch with the blade parallel along the grain so the branch and the handle of the axe are in line with each other. Intend of use a larger log as the ‘anvil’ to chop the branches on. I would also occasionally want to use the axe for some chopping and bucking of some heavier branches if I can’t drag the whole branch to camp so I like the idea of using the axe two handed occasionally when necessary. I want to carry it as a pack or belt axe so portability and weight are also important. What’s the best model and size of fiskars axe you would recommend to chop through hard knotty branches successfully but also not weighing a ton? Thanks for any suggestions
Whateva it’s cheap so it’s probably factory decarbidization from overly hot grinding or thin edge during heat treat-grind back 3mm on a hand sander in a vise (unsafe be careful) while dipping it in ice water every few seconds to not detemper from heat and the steel will be harder hopefully and it won’t happen again. Still sucks and is a consequence of mass scale whatever, but there’s no way the heat treatment and steel are going to be horrible, guarantee the carbon just left the outermost skin from inattentive factory heating and such
