my mower is 2 years old. I have adjusted the blades a number of times to keep it cutting well (cuts paper very nicely, but seems to adjustments every 5 or so times I cut the grass). I have nicked the blades a few times on stones and had to file off burrs. I have backlapped the blades three times in two years. At this point, it still cuts great. I am careful to remove rocks and branches in the yard prior to mowing which I believe helps.
You don't have to take the master link on the chain apart, you can take the reel gear off with the chain still attached, just lift the tensioner up to give the chain slack
Love the video. It doesn't get anymore informative than that. Exactly what I needed to get the used mower I just got back into tip top shape. Thank you
If you pull up on the chain tensioner and roll the rear wheel while pulling the chain to the side, the chain will just roll off the sprocket. Remember how we used to roll our chains back on our bikes as kids?
Thanks Dan, appreciate the good video, made this very simple. My Fiskars was way out of calibration and needed a good sharpening. This was quick and easy, thanks man.
Thank you for the video. I finally did this on my Fiskars mower after fourteen years of not doing so -- I have a postage-stamp lawn. I had to lower the reel, re-apply the lapping compound, and spin it four, seperate times, and yes it cuts much better. Mine doesn't have the chain tensioner.
Excellent video, got my blades sharpened and adjusted to get a nice cut after six years of usage. In my area the kit was sold out and I had to get another sharpening kit brand to work, but it came out very well just the same.
I appreciate your video. My chain broke & Fiskars replaced it + included a tensioner. Mine never came with a tensioner, so this video was helpful to see its proper location & how to install the new chain by removing the master link. Big thanks.
Did this last year with your help, now refreshing my memory. Thanks! After five years I've been nothing but pleased with this mower. Friends lot me I'll go back to a powered mower in no time. Never happened!
I mowed with it for three years before I sharpened it. It was mowing okay before that, but far better after sharpening. But I felt then that I should have applied the lapping pumice twice as my neighbor's reel mower was professionally sharpened and was sharper than mine. So I just finished two applications and ~10 min spins this time.
Dan! This is Sam from Principal! I just picked up this mower and was doing some research and saw this video. I was like that looks just like Dan! Wow. Great video! Hope you and your family are doing well!
Awesome. Thank you!! I appreciated the details as I am not that handy and many how to videos are good, they will skip a step or more that are vital. You went through every step which was great for this newb.
Jesse Park if I remember right I got it right from the Fiskars website. I just looked and they have them for about $40. www.fiskars.com/en-us/gardening-and-yard-care/products/reel-mowers/reel-mower-blade-sharpening-kit-362150-1001
Great video. I believe I've commented before a few years ago. No need to remove the link in the chain. Remove the small sprocket with an Allen wrench as you suggest and simply slip the chain and sprocket off. Easypeasy. It goes on equally easy too. There's slack in the chain from plastic spring grove mechanism that applies a little bit of tension on the chain. I also use a 9/16"× 1.5" deep socket and little bit of Gorilla tape smashed in the bottom with sticky side exposed (sticking inside the socket and also sticks very snuggly to the reel bar). I then use my electric drill and spin this reel crazy fast in both directions. I also use 80 grit reel mower sharpening compound. I've been using a little bit each year. Container of that is pretty inexpensive and will likely last me 10+ years of annual use. I didn't wipe off all the grit compound, and apply some silicone lubricant spray. Once finished, it works as good as new. 👍
I tried today to get mine off 😢 I will get some longer Allan keys to help me. But I MacGyvered some PVC pipe to go over the gear and tried sharpening that way. I bought unit second had and it is quite rusty and dull. I didn't get it to cut paper yet but it did cut the lawn okay (probably easier if sharpened). I will keep working at it.
you almost cutted of your thumb at 14:58, if you were not wearing those cloves. Very important indeed these safety stuff. Good vid, with good explenation. Tanx.
What I have learned is that this process will only work for the blades that are already relatively sharp. If you have lots of thick grass and many little twigs in your yard, and haven't sharpened your blades for a few years, then they will get very dull and this backlapping method will not work at all, even after multiple applications. Essentially here you are honing the blades, instead of resharpening. Fortunately, it is easy to sharpen the blades back in shape with a simple file. There is a nice youtube tutorial on how to sharpen reel mower blades with a file.
This is a fantastic video. Thanks, Dan, for this thoughtful and clear tutorial. In case any viewers want it, I typed out the list of needed supplies here: Fiskars Reel Mower Blade Maintance Kit (available on Am*zon) 10mm wrench or socket wrench 5 mm Allen wrench Flathead screwdriver Phillips screwdriver 11mm and 13mm wrench to adjust blades Safety glasses Work gloves Clean cloth 1" strips of paper Chain lubricant (optional)
Thanks, Dan. Mine is about 3 seasons overdue. Seems if you're going to remove the axle cog, it's not necessary to take the chain apart. Is there a reason you did both?
Great video! I just went through this process, I used a vintage bit brace to spin the blade. I had a question about the paper slicing stage. To get mine to slice all across the blade I end up with some contact between the blade and the sharpening edge. The result is the blade snick, snick, snick when it spins, and it doesn't spin freely for long. Am I doing this wrong?
How many mows did you get before needing to sharpen the blades? I'm considering buying one to mow between the times my lawn mowing guy mows. I'll only be mowing about 1000 square feet or so -- probably every two weeks so my yard gets mowed weekly instead of every two weeks.
It looked like there was a tensioner to the right of your hand that you could have lifted going you enough slack to take the chain off. If there wasn't enough slack by doing that you could have rolled the chain off just like you do on a bike back when you were a kid
Just got mine replaced. The first one touched on one side (the height adjustment side) and using the adjustment bolt didn't help. The replacement now catches in the middle, no adjusting on either side helps unless I back off to where it no longer cuts. Actually, I hear yours touch in the middle as well, I'm I wrong? Any suggestions?
I have found that the factory set blades did not cut some grasses well. I have what must be quite thin grass on my lawn, it's just what grows there. It just bends and bruises a decent proportion of the grass. I have taken to testing the blades with blades of grass from the lawn rather than paper. After all, it is for cutting grass not paper. In my experience, this requires a much closer setting of the blades than would be needed for paper. Another gripe is that the blade adjustment is a faff. When you retighten the locking bolts the blade to bed-knife spacing alters minutely, so you end up loosening, adjusting, retightening, testing etc. The adjustment system on my old Ransomes Mark 4 Ajax (from the era when push mowers rules) is much netter designed and easier to adjust. That mower just cuts very low.
My apologies in advance for a double post but I think if you have a drill with a half inch drive you wouldn't need the crank and could sharpen the blades much faster.
Dan, I just got the same reel mower (used) the missing the two adjustment bolts and nuts. It seems I can't find its size anywhere online. Is it possible you can tell me the size (length) of these two bolts and nuts. They are the two with 11 mm to adjust the clearance between the reel and the station blade. If possible, please give me a close up photo of these bolts. Thank you so much for your video.
I got one of these push mowers used. When I went to sharpen the blades, the sprocket was rusted onto the drive shaft and it wouldn't come off even with the set screw removed. I tried liquid wrench and tapping it with a hammer, but no luck. Do you have any suggestions for removing a sprocket that is a but rusty and won't come off?
I saw another youtube video where a man used a 32mm or 34mm socket and just used that on the sprocket without removing it. He then spun the nut with the drill bit backwards and that worked. Cheaper mm socket than buying the kit and more efficient if you have already have a drill.
Thanks for the video. But your testing with the paper made me very nervous. My father-in-law lost a thumb to one of these reel mowers when he was a little kid. Everytime I fiddle with my mower, I think about his thumb LOL
This process is called backlapping, it will slightly hone the edge on the reel but it will do nothing for the longevity or edge of the bedknife. Also, using too much compound or not applying it evenly will cause the reel to taper or cone making it very hard to adjust it even to the bedknife for proper cutting.
Exactly my case. Do you know what should I do to make it right? Now it cuts only when knives are touching and making noise. I am trying to sharpen every month.
It works on the bed knife also. The compound touches both and the same action that hones the one hones the other. Sharpening doesn't ever increase longevity as you take metal away. The amount of metal removed is so slight that any unevenness will average out unless someone really only applies it to one side. You almost have to try to mess this up.
@@kubaistube Make sure you are *back* lapping, that is, spinning the reel backwards after applying the compound. Just back it off slightly. If they touch then you will have to sharpen more often. That is part of the "stay" sharp concept is having no contact. If the blades are sharp you should be able to get the paper cutting without touching. It may be far too dull and require more back lapping. I recommend you take it to a pro and get it back in shape first.
Hello and thanks for the video. Please let me know if this model comes with a reversible grass chute that can direct clippings forward as well as backwards. Thank you!
Fiskars mowers come with a yellow/orange bonnet which directs the clippings forward into the path of the mower, but this can be flipped forward so the clippings go backwards onto your legs, although I don’t know why you would want to do that.
I purchased a new fiskars stay sharp max at the start of this season. After say, 20 uses, the cutting surfaces no longer have that super sharp factory knife edge. I can actually run my thumb along the edge with little chance of cutting myself. Does this mean they could use a sharpening?
FisheeC3 Hello. You may want to call Fiskars support to confirm. I sharpen mine once per year. Also, make sure your yard is free of debris before you cut as that can dull your blade.
Which bolts exactly do i have to loosen before i can adjust the blade height? And do u loosen two bolts on both sides? When I look at that mower it looks like those bolts are set so if u tighten them back it'll force the height back to original height since there's a hole for both the deck and the blade deck. I do hard to explain.
I bought this mower used and after sharpening and tuning as best I can, I find that no matter how I adjust it, 2 or 3 blades will cut and the others miss, or if I tune it tight, all 5 blades will cut and the 2 will hit really hard, stick, or make it really hard to push. Is there another adjustment to center the whole blade assembly? They couldn't have gotten this uneven by wearing out differently.
Hi Dan. Based on your description, it sounds to me like 2 of your blades may have been damaged. For example, it is possible to hit a rock which can not only put a dent in the blade (in this case you can file it smooth), but it can also push the 1 blade further or closer to the bed knife.This machine is very finely tuned, and if it is off by even a fairly minute amount, it can impact the way the mower cuts. The first thing i would do is to make sure you do not have any burrs in the the 2 blades that are problematic. If there are burrs, you can use a small hand file and file them smooth. If not burrs, i think you have 2 blades on the reel that have been bent (i.e., no longer the correct distance from the bed knife at the bottom). If this is the case, you need to be very, very careful as to not cut yourself or make things worse with the mower. One thing I have done in the past is tap the blade lightly with a hammer on the part of the blade that is touching (or too far from the bed knife). I can't emphasize enough that great care and safety must be taken (including putting work gloves on and proper eye protection). Please share with the community what you find out. Good luck and thank you. Dan
I have this same problem and I have meticulously tuned it and grease pen marked the blades that rub. The thing is that those same blades don't rub on every rotation. This has led me to understand that the bearing must be bringing the shaft out of center because the interference is not at the same frequency as the rotation. Honing my blades makes no sense at this point until I solve the centering problem. If I adjust it more open so no blades contact, it will not cut a NYT's newspaper on some oscillations.
Great Job! I wonder if, you can put that compound on the blades and then go backwards, for 10 minutes, without taking the mower apart "lazy thinking" ? How much does the kit cost? Thanks!
do you know if you can remove the back where the blade is very close to hitting? mine hits or clogs up. not sure which one, but it's annoying. i want to remove it, used an 8mm allen wrench, but stripped the bolt. the part i am referring to is in front of tge rear wheels. your touching it near 2 min 13 sec.
Hello Dan, I just purchased a used momentum from a neighbor. I bought the kit and tried sharpening the blades. But I cannot get the small chain sprocket off. I removed the set screw and it won't budge, feels like it's welded on. Do you have any suggestions? Would liquid wrench work? I called fiskars and they said since I'm not the original owner they can't replace it and to give it the old college try and I've broken two hammers and a screwdriver trying to pry it off. Thanks in advance for your response.
Vincent Cavalea Hi Vincent. My first reaction is to tell you to call support for assistance, but it sounds like you have already done that. Of course, maybe you can get your neighbor who sold you the mower to help you out. If there is some rust on it, you may want to try a product designed to loosen the rust. You definitely want to be careful as to not damage the sprocket. I wish I could be of more help. A last option may be to bring it to a small engine repair shop where they may have the tools required to remove the sprocket. Sorry about not being of much help. Good luck to you.
1) try a small pulley puller 2) Yes use liquid wrench (always) and let soak 3) apply some heat, not a lot but I am surprised at how often heating works. Heat the sprocket not the hub
It's hanging from the ceiling in his garage. It's a common thing that people do (especially for those with smaller garages/ parking spaces) that allows you to drive your vehicle into the garage to the point where the tennis ball makes contact with your windshield. This lets you know that you've parked your vehicle in the garage in the exact same spot (the ideal spot) each time. There's no guess work or worry regarding driving the vehicle in far enough that the garage door can close safely or driving in too far and possibly hitting something that's difficult to see due to being low to the ground or otherwise.
Toby Denney I don't really have at tip. However, Fiskars states their mower will not cut higher weeds. It simply isn't designed to get the high stuff between the bedknife and the reel.
The 5 blade reel is insufficient to cut longer thin blade types. If Fiskars offers a 7 or 11 blade reel it will solve your problem. Everything we use on the golf course (fairways and greens) are 7, 8, or 11 bade reels to increase the frequency of cut.
In order to get most reel mowers to cut anything taller than 7-8" in height, you often have to lift the front of the mower up (pop a wheelie with it by pushing down on the handle and then getting the reel to spin while you go over the area of tall grass/ weeds that you're attempting to cut) . The goal is to keep most of the reel above the tallest part of the grass or the weeds being cut to allow the grass/ weeds to be pulled forward and down into the bedknife.
It is easy with a brand new machine, but I assure you that on a 4 year old Fiskars like mine, everything is more difficult: the socket head screw is not removable, perhaps it has oxidized and does not move even with cannon fire , moreover, the two 14mm nuts are also immovable even after spraying some lubricant. If I can't sharpen it, I'll have to throw it away and buy it new. :(
I am seriously thinking about buying a reel mower because I am so sick and tired of having problems with my gas mower. Where can I buy a Fiskars mower like this one???
Dan, how old is your mower? I had mine for less than 2 years and the moment I adjusted the blade, the cut quality went downhill. I also tried sharpening the blade with the kit but it didn't help. I really hate that this was such a good mower, but now is useless.
+Chris Ratchford My mower is 2 years old. I have adjusted the blades a number of times to keep it cutting well (cuts paper very nicely, but seems to need adjustments every 5 or so times I cut the grass - I believe it is because i hit sticks or mulch from time to time). I have nicked the blades a few times on stones and had to file off burrs (both on the reel and on the bedknife). I have backlapped the blades three times in two years. At this point, it still cuts great. I am careful to remove rocks and branches in the yard prior to mowing which I believe helps. I have noticed that I have gotten considerably better at readjusting the reel as I have done it a number of times. After backlapping (and cleaning off the compound), there is typically too big of a gap between the reel and the bedknife. Slowly adjust each side down until it just barely touches the bedknife, then back off ever so slightly before tightening. I wouldn't tighten things up until both sides are barely touching, then alternate sides as you tighten it up. Sometimes I find that when tightening the reel gets closer to the bedknife (i.e., touching after tightening). When this happens I loosen a bit and make a very minor adjustment to back off the reel on both sides, then tighten again. It takes a little practices (seems more like art than science). Trust me, after a few times you will be able to do it in a few minutes. I hope that helps!
Very difficult to do properly and you can't sharpen the bed knife without complete removal. The backlapping approach is faster, easier and approved by all reel mower manufacturers. This the way pros do it.
Hi, can I get spareparts for this? Someone attempt to adjust cutting without loosing up the 13mm lockscrews.. Now the threads are gone on the adjustment screw and on the point where the screw is raising&lowering the real.. This is on the shain cover side...
i would suggest you call Fiskars tech support number. i have heard their support is pretty good. maybe they will simply send you a new screw with instructions. Good luck.
I can't for the life of me get the small front sprocket off. I was able to remove the screw with my Allen wrench (with lots of work though) but am stuck at removing the sprocket. Anyone else have this problem and/or solution? Or a juryrig to spin the blades without removing the sprocket?
Prop the mower up so the wheels r off the ground.... spin the wheel by hand.... Maybe take a piece or wood 3 inch thick or something... drill a whole big enough to gently tap it over the gear without breakin teeth off... but dont drill all the way through the wood ( just deep enough to get it bite on the teeth of the sprocket ) then drill a whole through the center of the piece wood so u can put a nut and bolt long enough through it and tighten it so theres enough of the bolt sticking out to attach a drill to it and spin it . .. This is just a quick idea... Hopefully it helps idk ... also prolly some typos, miss spellings, missing words, and all that .. not caring at the moment... just wanted to help n thats what I immediately came up with ... so sorry if it dont work or ur not able to craft this idea... but it might help u think of a better way
Works great! ru-vid.comUgkxprGGPRQoChQaA8u58dt7miEpxQBKiWeJ More difficult with longer grass, though, but I was expecting that. I have a small back yard, it seemed like overkill to buy a lawnmower with an engine. This is easy to carry in and out of the basement through the bulkhead. Very sharp (be careful). At the back of the mower are little wheels, which I use when pulling the mower backwards, so it's easy to readjust direction. I'm including a photo which shows the before and after for my lawn when it was at its longest. For long grass like that you really have to put some muscle into it, and I needed to go into a new section of grass with some momentum, but when the grass is only an inch or two higher than regular cut height it's quite easy. The lawn is still patchy and full of weeds, but at least it's a good height! A step in the right direction.
I tried three times and all three made the same noise as in your video with the lapping compound. However I tried cutting the paper and it just would not cut in any of the blades or any of the places. I bought it used so there is a possibility is broken forever :(
Sounds like it's almost surely a blade distance adjustment issue. Sometimes it's better to go by sight rather than listening for some arbitrary sound or trying to go by feel, alone. Fiskars really should have made the blade adjustment process much easier on this mower. I've seen quite a few other reel mowers over the years with simpler/ more user friendly blade adjustment mechanisms.
jcbabacha -§- Yeah, but this is the only solidly made push mower. All the rest are cheap junk made in China, and you will have more trouble keeping those working.
I think its a guide for driving a car into the garage. Stop going forward when the car’s windshield touches the tennis ball. I’ve used one in my garage.
