i just did this yesterday on a 90 - i ended up slotting the holes a bit and was able to bang it in, but i did scrape up my shock tower some, wish i had watched this first!! nice work man
I’ve done it just about every way at this point, Ive banged the tower, I’ve slotted the holes, this is the first time it goes in without me using a hammer 😂! As long as it went in, you have nothing to worry about 🫡
Recently subscribed and in the process of catching up on the vids from the beginning. Very happy I saw this vid as I’ve planned on a cobra booster in the future and glad I won’t have to bend my tower in. Thanks, looking forward to watching your progress as I catch up and may follow your budget brake upgrade when it come time.
Hey thanks for watching! just in case you missed the ending, I had to undo the nuts on the brake pedal assembly after I did that, the booster went right in! Try that in case it gives you a fight. 😎
It’s definitely possible to do it without banging the shock tower, it takes more time and effort to do it this way, but if you want to get it done without damage it is 💯 possible.
Great video man,you know i have been involved with these cars in one way or another for the last 30 plus years and everytime i think i know just about everything something new pops up,lol,i had heard about the clearanced shock tower but i thought that was on the 93s only,i have a 91 (since new) and a 89 and sure enough i went and checked the 91 after watching your video and it does have a clearanced tower, hell yeah!! I wanted to ask a few questions and maybe you might have the answer. About a year ago i installed a 347 on my 91, it has a Trick Flow stage 1 cam,those cams only put out about 15 pounds of vacuum however for the last year my brakes have been ok,not supergood but adequate and the car stops just fine,about a week ago my brakes started acting real weird, like the booster might be bad but i also suspect it just might not have enough vacuum so before swapping out a booster i ordered a vacuum reservoir,if you are only away a couple pounds of vacuum from your goal those cans work great and if that solves my problem great but why did it take a year for the vacuum problem to manifest itself? I had a brand new OEM check valve laying around so i swapped that out on the booster and that seemed to make it about 5 % better but it still brakes awful,gotta really lay on it to stop the car, my brakes themselves are just fine,nothing wrong with the master cylinder or the pads / calipers etc, everything tip top,its a vacuum issue without a doubt,also, some people say if you have a bad booster you will hear a "hiss", i dont hear anything,let me know your input, i value your opinion. I also wanted to ask,lets say my booster is bad and i decided to change it and for grins i install a cobra booster but i dont do anything else to my brakes,no upgrades, no rear disc etc,will that booster cause me issues or will it be a upgrade for my stock brakes as in a better booster?
Hello brother thank you for watching and leaving a comment! 91 is one of the golden years, never sell it! You have the clearance on the shock towers, you also have the larger fender wells so you can run larger wheels, and that year still had the forged piston motor!… congratulations on the 347 build! You know if the car has been fine for a year and all the sudden it developed the issue I would suspect a vacuum leak, the trick flow stage 1 cam is usually good enough with the vacuum specially now that you have more displacement. Ive had a booster that leaked and you could hear it from inside the vehicle, I would check the booster, or if you have a vacuum gage plug the hose that goes to the booster and see if the reading changes
Thank for the quick reply man,very nice to talk to a knowledgeable person like yourself, i love these cars,yeah i was happy to get that 347, it cost me a ton but i had been wanting one for decades and the original engine was really tired so i finally saved up some money and got it. Yeah i have been chasing what i think is a vacuum leak but i have done a smoke test and i didn't see anything and i redid my lower with those special graphite gaskets and i used studs to lower my lower intake onto the block and i torqued everything down properly,that was a operation i did like a surgeon cause i dont wanna do it again,lol,so i dont think i have a vacuum leak on the lower and like i said i have chased everywhere else but its still possible. My computer has really bad capacitors so i think thats another reason why the engine hasn't been running tip top, i kinda wanna get a spare A9P but those damn computers are so expensive now,i missed my call going to the salvage yards back in the day and getting a few dozen of them,lol,i could kick myself. On the booster i dont hear anything hissing, if i take the hose of my intake that provides vacuum to the tree and i unhook it and i put a gauge on it it reads 15 vacuum, how do i go about testing the booster like you mention? im guessing i would have to take the reading from a different place, maybe the regulator vacuum? that way the tree still has vacuum and i can unhook the booster and plug it and if the reading is different i would have my leak in the booster? (if there is one?) thank you again man,didn't mean to sound confusing.
@@dntlss yes sir you would get a reading from a different hose while the booster is still connected and one without. By this point brother we all wish we had gotten more parts and built up a stash, so don’t feel bad 😂. It’s getting harder to diagnose problems on these cars because you’re also dealing with wiring harnesses that are 30+ years old, with all kinds of fusible links and grounds that could be broken… like you said too, the capacitors on the ECUs are also suspect. You absolutely have to love Fox Bodies to keep them running well! Right now Im working on a T-top that I recently got running, but all of the harness has been cut and modified, so I basically need to rewire the whole car or find a good donor harness… but again like you said everything is super expensive or obsolete 😬
Oh my god,i feel for you,nothing is worse than dealing with a bad job someone else did in the past and now its up to you to make it right, specially dealing with wiring,I'm gonna do my heater core on my 91 here in the next few years but there is a twist to it, I'm gonna replace the dash while I'm at it,mine has cracked around the cluster and i wanna source one someday by some miracle and just paint it the color i want but I'm dreading dealing with the wiring behind the dash, scared is a better word, ha ha ha. T tops are the bomb,my 91 is a convertible but to be honest id rather have a T TOP car,Man if there is anything i can do to help let me know, i have the shop manuals and i have the electrical trouble shooting manuals also that have all the wiring stuff in case you might have any questions or need a picture etc, i know they changed during the years but a lot of stuff is the same or close,dont hesitate to ask.
@dntlss man I will take you up on that offer so quickly!!! 😂 I appreciate it brother, and same if there’s anything I can help you with drop by and leave a comment on any video, Im sure I will get to it on a timely manner! Cheers 🍻 brother!
Either way it’s no big deal brother, couple of whacks with the hammer and done! I’ve done it that way many times, this is the first time I succeed without beating the shock tower! Im 💯 I can do it so much faster by doing what I suggest at the end of the video
Hi, thanks for stopping by! This is a 1989 Mustang. 91 and up have better clearance between the shock tower and firewall so the install is much easier on those years.
Definitely! I recommend you do this only if you absolutely don’t want to beat the shock tower, 99% of people just give it a couple if wacks and call it done. The way I did it was more work than it usually takes
Yes, the spacing between the bolt holes on the original master cylinder is the same as the cobra, so you definitely can bolt it on, although the cobra booster might be overkill for the factory set up.
It’s usually recommended when you use a bigger 1 inch bore master cylinder like 94-95 mustangs. I think it would be too much vacuum assist to run with the stock master cylinder
Yes, it’s way more convenient! I’ve used the maximum motorsports kit before, its a little expensive but it lets you keep your stock pedal assembly and makes everything pretty much bolt on.
