Fuses do make a difference. The easiest way to confirm this is to put in the cheapest glass fuse you can find. It'll make it unlistenable. Once you've done that, you can try fuses with better materials and you'll notice improvements. Any improvement that makes you enjoy the music is worthwhile; and of course, improvements add up. By doing a series of small tweaks you can push most systems into a higher class of sound that would cost a lot more to buy off the shelf.
But NO ONE explains why or how it actually works to make things sound better. Miles of copper and you add a ¾" piece of whatever material and the sound improves??? how?
@@OutlierAudio23 All the power entering the amp goes through the fuse. If the fuse wire is low quality, it can affect the operation. If the fuse casing is microphonic, it can introduce noise. Old audiophiles used to remove the fuses altogether and solder in thick copper wire. This is bad and much worse than putting a high quality fuse in.
FYI the Supreme (black bodied) fuses use a 99% Silver and 1% Gold alloy signal wire (as smother sounding than their cheaper pure silver options), with gold plate, solid silver end caps. I have them throughout my system and love them. Good to know I am not the only crazy out there. 😉
Thanks for that. Might I add, cleaning the contacts of the fuse and receptacle would improve things a little further. Also the ac pins on the units, blades on the ac cable, speaker cable and receptacles on the speaker and amp etc, etc. My current combo works well for me. It’s the 2 step cleaner from Mo Fi and then the Furutech Nano liquid (expensive) to enhance the cleaned part. A nice step up from Caig deoxit (red and gold).
Hi Tweaker Man have changed a couple of my 13 amp plug fuses and have some internal fuses coming for my phono stage and pre amp but very impressed with the mains plug fuses. Keep up the good work.
It seems nobody wants to really mesure the resistence of the fuse. It is certainly a low value and a normal multimeter is useless in that case (to much error because the measured resistence is similar or lower than the multimeter proof cables in "resistence mode"). But with a Kelvin bridge it is easy to measure resistence values as low as 0.005 ohms. It is a 4 wire measurement and the multimeter is used in mV range. As long as the measured resistence is connected to a constant current source, and the multimeter is used as a millivoltmeter, the resistence of the multimeter proof wires no longer matters. Using ohm's low, and knowing the current in the fuse in the measuring procedure (I) and the voltage across fuse (U), so R=U/I. Off course, in that measurement, the fuse is on the working table, not in the circuit of the amplifier or other apparatus. This way, we can compare the resistence of a normal fuse and an "audiophile boutique fuse". May be this can give very interesting results... and useful conclusions. Are the fuse contacts clean? I mean may be the old fuse rested a very long time inserted. May be some oxidation and abnormal contact resistence ocurred. Removing the old fuse and inserting the new fuse can produce a small friction and cleaning action that can help to remove oxides and give lower contact resistence. And what about measuring the voltage drop across the normal fuse (in circuit working)? And comparing it with the voltage drop across the audiophile 'boutique' fuse also in the working circuit? This is cannot be 'considered' a mistery 'miracle'...
They do not need an arrow to be directional. All fuses are directional that I have tried. If I have a fuse like that? I mark one end on the ceramic tube to keep track when testing for direction.
@@simonzinc-trumpetharris852 Sorry that your system does not have the ability to reveal this reality. Can not argue with you if you can not demonstrate it for yourself.
I know this is a rather old video but I’m wondering if you had a chance to try some very high-end fuses such as synergistic orange types. Please let me know. Thank you for your videos.
Hello, you would need to phone or email Arcam to ask them, sorry I don't now. Arcam's phone number 01223 203200, I hope this is helpful & thanks for watching.
Great info again m8 ,,how can i get your email address , you started me off on a huge diy hifi path and i'm eternally grateful id love to show you pics of all i've done ,and to share all the knowledge that i know you would love to make hi end clone speakers ,diy amps ,diy hifi rack,,,let me know m8
Hello blackcoffee, I've done this, but there no point doing this on a RU-vid video, as the sound gets compressed on RU-vid, so you won't notice it, remember, these are subtle changes, but lots of subtle changes all add up to a nice improvement, thanks for the comment & thanks for watching
@@tweakerman Hi Ian? - somehow PursuitPerfectSystem channel makes hifi hi-res recordings of A/B tests. These can be surprisingly easy to distinguish between, even over a PC sound card and over my cheapo Sennheiser HD201's. How he does it, I don't know. But one day you may be interested to show the differences to hi-fi newbies. I'm enjoying binge-watching your content! I recognize you know what you're talking about as another long-term audiophile. All the best, Rob
@@johnshore3095 I generally stick to hi fi tuning supreme fuses these days, I find those to be good for the money, they need time to break-in though, around 200 hours before they open up. Fuses are a very controversial subject, there's a lot that poo poo them, calling them snake oil, but I can't help it if I'm hearing improvements, thanks for commenting & watching 👍
@@tweakerman I have a tweaked by AngelP Rotel amp he does something which drops the noise floor by 20dB (DiyAudio forum thread on the topic). And the 820AX is a sweet spot, the amp I intend to have this mod done on. I got one from Facebook sales for £30 in mint condition/ boxed / one owner.
@@tweakerman back in the day some believed changing out the fuse in our CB radio would increase power, until we all grew up and became adults with brain's.
