Five Training Drills Every Climber Should Do - with Louis Parkinson 

It's awesome to have someone at the bouldering gym telling you you're doing good though, I have had many tops where I only finished them because of the support of people, without them I would have given up on many attemtps

He's damn encouraging even with the smallest things, love it!

@@Dimitry4Life climbing in pairs is really the best. I love having someone that can climb at a similar level and help me fill in the gaps when I get stuck on something.

not bad!

hahaha so true

It exists.

Definitely a Hufflepuff

More like Woody Allen

Thanks Laura!

0RANGOTANG nice! No problem!

0RANGOTANG you have a wall at your school?!? So lucky.

Just do yourself a favor and force yourself to train on a bar. You will see a lot more progress than doing this.

@@topanteon As a beginner yeah, but after that training on a bar is pretty useless. You're never going to have a handhold that good if you're climbing anything over V5/6C. So you'll end up getting muscle which you won't be able to use in climbing so essentially useless added weight.

I need to gain weight. If I don't I wont gain muscle.

@@parkerv6 You should stay around 15% Bodyfat (20% for women) while training and drop down to under 10% (under 15% for women) for peak performance. If you're over 20% bodyfat (as a male) you should cut before trying to build muscle.

Try shazam app... I don't know myself :D

@@NateMurphy Thanks for replying man! Will do thanks!

Louis Fwk thanks mate!

That is super cool! Glad you are finding it useful!

John Connolly skwarmas & love them

Add a little bit of assistance: in order of increasing 'help', you might try smearing one (two) foot (feet) against the wall; placing one (two) foot (feet) on a chip; placing one (two) foot (feet) on a foot hold. If you use your feet as I've suggested to reduce the effort required to pull yourself up (mostly with your arms), you could also vary the angle of the wall--presumably the less steep the wall is, the better your feet can be used to reduce the effort. Alternatively, you can start by working on your pullups with a hang board and incorporate a pulley & weight system to assist yourself. Once you're stronger on the hang board (ie able to do multiple asymmetrical pullups with full body weight), you'll be able to do the exercise described in the video.

Technique & core.

@@NateMurphy thank you :)

hahah yeah

Can't you do the ones Louis demonstrates in the video?

I'm assuming you are relatively new to climbing. You should focus just on climbing for the first two years. After two years your body will have adopted to climbing and you can train on the campusboards and campuswall. Training with rings is also recommended. Before that, to get better you only have to climb.

kmg1100 yeah im pretty new im climbing for 2 weeks now but im hooked. Just wanted to know if there is everything besides that what is shown in the video maybe special core work or any grip work that is cary over to the wall. I think i will take a climbing coach for technique work so i know what os correct. Thanks for your answer thats helppful =)

Haris Zukic Cool to hear that you're hooked! You probably have a history of doing strength training, which is good. Keep up the core exercises but do not try to improve grip strength with additional exercises untill the first two years. This is how most people get injured. Working on your antagonists is also recommended, so bench press and rotator cuff exercises are awesome! Finally, you can always ask for advice from some of the beasts in your gym!

40kg 🤭 that’s my weight

I think mostly you do as it sets a challenge but you certainly don’t have to! What ever works for you!

"Harrowall" in London Harrow

It is a good one.. and thanks!

La Sportiva Maverink. Soft no edge Slippers, a little bit more narrow than Futuras, but way less aggressive. Just a really small amount asymetric, just little downturned (bana shape) and no downturn on the toes. The opening of the shoe is quite small, so to get your toes into the shoe you have to be precise ;) I'm a streetshoe 44.5-45 and i ordered the biggest size they are comming, online. EU 42. And they are not too small. My La Sportiva Size is generally 42.5. On hard shoes, like the Miura VS or the Otaki, I have a left shoe of 42.5 and a right shoe of 43, since my feet are different in length. 42 left and 42.5 right would be the absolute minimum for me, but since I'm not that strong climber and only just climbing since 2.5 years, it is not necessary. Of course putting on the shoes is the last thing i do and the first thng i do after the climb. I have normal width feet i guess, or on the wider side of the La Sportiva range, a low instep (so i get into slippers easily), egyption toes with a fat big toe and a little, low volume heel. Basically, all La Sportiva Heels are too big, so i have to fit the shoes as tight as possible to be okay. Only heel I really fit is the Five Ten HiAngle (2016, grey/aqua, UK10/EU44.5) and the heel of the old Five Ten Dragon, UK 10.5/11. So tight and narrow that the pain is instantly there, so i save them for the most extreme short stuff. But HiAngles I would climb in nearly all the time, if the super sticky C4 rubber would last longer indoors. Therefore Anasazi VCS with OnyXX rubber for maximum durability. Btw, the 2018 Anasazi VCS comes with C4, not OnyXx any more! Yes, the brown one (golden tan). Seems the violet one got discontinued? Even though the new Anasazi pro comes witrh C4, also the Anasazi VCS comes with C4? No OnyXX rubber any more? what about the better edging and more support for longer stuff, f.e. alpine routes? Thats what the Anasazi VCS is for. Or indoor training on aggressive walls, to save your "new, expensive good shoes" for outdoors. . I have only climbed in my Maverinks once, for a few boulders indoors, so i can't say much about them right now. I think they are not as soft as I was afraid they would be, at least not in this sizing (I'm 1,80m tall and 84kg heavy). . The shoes come with 2 pens for customizing your shoes (as they are designed for children due to the marketing). Right now, I let a local artist do something with them ;)

haha not the first to say this... I do these every time I train indoors.. the core stuff is so brutal!

It looks like the hardest one, yeah

Lattice training might have documented something. You do need to be cautious!

Thx so much x

He did demo a good one but it did not make the cut (youtube/attention span) maybe I do another video with him in the future and focus on that.

Do 4x4s.

There's two ways I "train" my head... 1) do exercises til' you drop. Force yourself to do more than you can. It will help on the rock when you think you can't climb any more. 2) do practice falls on the rock. Number 1 is limited by your fear of falling. Doing a few practice falls every time you're on the rock helps alleviate the fear and allows you to climb better and confident. But really, that's just what I do. The head is not a muscle, my training might not work for anyone else and someone else's workout might, in turn, not work for me. Just find yourself a way to put yourself in an "all or nothing" attitude when you climb.

Nate: please do! As Louis says, that's the most import aspect, and I expect that many of us would be interested to hear how he trains that.

I think that these exercises DO work head game. I understand it's not big picture psych stuff but drilling that footwork until it becomes second nature, focusing on your lock off posture and pull ups to the lead hand to train dynamic movement and grip strength - these are all things that make you more relaxed on the wall/crag beyond simple strength training. These are huge and I'm gonna start doing more of my strength training on the wall - which also makes a ton of sense.

Harrow Wall!

Thanks,