Fix A Husqvarna Trimmer That Won't Start Using An Aftermarket Carb 

Same thing happened to me with that Ryobi leaf blower. After cleaning the carb, I ended up ordering an aftermarket one. Meditating would not have been the action I took. Lol. I would walk away and have it consume my every waking and sleeping hours, replaying in my head what I did and what I can still try to do. Thinking, “What did I miss?” Glad you got it working.

Learnt something new the other day about intake and carburetion...Never even thought of it...Another RU-vidr said that wear on any shaft Bushing can cause intermittent problems like this...Be it automotive or even Lawn care equipment....Any minute play can cause it and you can spend hours chasing your tail tryna find it....Me, like you, don't have a rich Uncle or Money tree growing out back....

Yep, I had the exact same unit. Carb was garbage since I bought it new. Got a cheap replacement years ago and it has run great ever since.

So glad you got her fixed!!! I knew you would get it running

Hope you had a wonderful Thanksgiving, and thank you for all your help and advice!

I had this same problem trying to fix a Tanaka trimmer. I took the carb off 3 times and cleaned it and still had the same problem. I gave the carb to a buddy of mine who had a ultra sonic cleaner and he stuck it in there for 3 hours. That did the truck. I installed the carb did minor adjustments and it ran like a top. I now own my own ultra sonic cleaner. Believe me, it saves a lot of headaches.

Hey IHG, I believe you’re a lot better mechanic than you give yourself credit for. You are making a believer out of me when it comes to the aftermarket parts. Thus saving me money. Cheers I would have done pretty much the same as you on this one. Along with the frustration and walking away. I’m already old. I don’t want to go bald too! Keep ‘em coming. You are helping us out tremendously.

I've had good luck with HOOAI carbs - a Stihl string trimmer runs better than new, and the one I just put on an MTD snowblower (B&S engine) looks promising, just haven't had any snow since putting it on. I put one on a gifted old Weedeater edger, and had a terrible time getting it to run well - it started, but would barely idle and was very rough at full throttle, despite all adjustments. Eventually figured out the gasket was backwards, blocking a needed hole in one place and presumably an air leak in another. Once I fixed that, it never started again, even spinning it over with a drill. After probably 8 hours of tinkering and increasing frustration, I put it on Marketplace for free, with an honest description. Turns out, when I fixed the backwards gasket, I had also put the air cleaner back on - and never realized I had introduced two changes. It was plugged. The guy who took it said it fired right up and ran well with the air cleaner off, and died immediately when he put it back on. He replaced that and it ran perfectly. Live and learn. 🤷‍♂️

Glad it was just a carburetor and not a vacuum leak at the crank seal

Once is enough for me usually, unless I can't locate a rare carb. Also I always check to see if the fuel tank vent is plugged. Some of them have a third line to a vent above the tank, ie on some Echo's.

Great video, sadly at your expense in time and money. I would try to clean the carb lightly at first, then if no good, do a deeper clean. After that, just replace. I often do not adjust carbs if it's working okay. I totally understand walking away for a bit to think and regroup my thoughts about repair issues. I am impressed at your working knowledge of small engines and not being a full time professional. I learn a lot from you and tips from your comment section. Keep up the great work and quality videos!! You are a true inspiration to us DIYers!!!

Glad you got it straightened out👍🏻 depending on the price and availability of oem and aftermarket carbs, it's usually 3 strikes your out for me.

Replacement carbs are cheap insurance to me and works 90% of the time, will clean an original carb once or twice or even replace al the parts but nothing beats the installing, adjusting and run it of the new cheap carb

I would’ve clean the carburetor once and if that didn’t work, I would just buy a new one. And keep up the great work.

Great video and nice work, I would've just got a cheap new carb like you did after failed attempts to get the oem carb working correctly.

Nice, I think the aftermarket carbs have gotten a little better now, as long as you can tell which are complete junk from the half-decent ones on Amazon. I've had decent luck with the "Hipa" brand.

I think you did a FINE job and after the 2nd cleaning I'd have ordered anoter carb too. Thye 1st carb was goofy from the start with the primer bulb issue not being right. There was an air leak or a bad restriction somewhere but it's fixed now and that was the aim of everything anyway. Hope you had a FINE Thanksgiving and Blessings to you!

Great video!

Happy thanksgiving to you sir thanks for the video sir hope you are well

Great video as always... I'm currently working on a Magnum Ice auger (ice fishing is just around the corner here in Vermont) with a 49cc tecumseh engine. It has a walbro carb and would like to buy an aftermarket but can't seen to find the correct carb due to linkage setup so I too am stuck with doing a good cleaning and hopefully it well run.

Yes I would have replaced the carb also if after cleaning it and no improvements glad it see it running like it should

I would of put it in a ultrasonic cleaner just because I have one and if that didn’t work just buy a aftermarket one. Great repair my friend 👍🙏👍🙏👍

Same thing happened to me with a Craftsman\Husqvarna trimmer... Had to replace the carburetor

2 other quick checks...The manifold screws behind the gasket & the head screws...make sure there tight.

As you seem work on many carbs, it may be worth getting or making a pressure test jig to test if it’s holding about 5 or 6 psi on the fuel inlet. I made mine with a low pressure 15 psi gauge, some adapter plumbing to create a T and a self-contained primer bulb to pump it up. I test my tester with a plug before each use then test my carb. It should hold and not leak down from about 6 psi. You have an old carb from this unit to use as a suspect carb to test too.

Good choice 👍👍🤠

I went off to meditate😂

one thing i did notice was on the replacement carb.. when you pushed the fuel bulb the fuel came up much faster than the old carb...!?!🤔

I have a husqvarna 125b blower and those stock carbs are tricky. One i found out that the diaphragm was crispy i just went and bought an aftermarket one and it runs beautiful since.

When I clean a carburetor, I clean it all the way. Also, replace metering diaphragm on 2-stroke if needed. Have a great success rate, especially on 4-stroke carburetors, after cleaning. Always want to keep OEM Zama, Walbro, Nikki, etc. carb if possible.

Another great video . For me I only use OEM parts . I don't trust the cheap Chinese junk , that's just me . Thank you for the time you put in to making these videos .

In some carbs there is a screen below the inlet pipe but the pipe really needs to be pulled out of the carb to clean it or sometimes you can back spray it with carb cleaner. If that wouldn’t work then I would get a knock off carb

2/1/2024 A $14 Amazon Carb kit fixed my Husqvarna 128 ld Came with complete carb, 2 fuel lines, gaskets. 2 fuel filters, air filter, spark plug (that didnt work properly) 2 purge bulbs, and the H/L screw adjusting tool, (and they did need adjusting) and free shipping! Note: EBAY has the same kit for $7.77 & free shipping (but without the H/L Tool) The supplier has to be losing money at these prices

I seen people use an ultrasonic cleaners to clean carburetors and get them going but that requires striping the card down and then running it in the ultrasonic machine and then putting it all back together which takes more time. As for the carburetor you replace I would have cleaned it again but I would have looked for other reasons the carb wasn't working properly like gasket mainly around the card not sealing and allowing air to get by causing a vacuum leak which may have been the problem with how clean the old carb looked it was most likely not fully the problem but also when you can find aftermarket carbs for under 20$ and they work perfectly it's almost a no Brainer

The gasket may have been the real issue.

Yes I commented that I thought the lines were very loose.

A clogged fuel tank vent can cause the issue that you were having as well 👍

I thought it was the loose fuel lines but alas I was wrong. If the carb got a thorough cleaning there is no next time. It’s replacement time.

Old carb was running rich☺

Like you said no money trees

Its proably the dyerfram in the carburator

i just noticed that the gasket had some minor damage around the threadholes and the top part was damaged between the two holes which would result to an air leak i think that's the reason why it wouldn't work fine with the oem carb :p

for me personally i would give it a good cleaning at least twice to confirm a engine,s carburetor aka carby is working correctly or like a bogged spark arrestor screen job etc.

My biggest issues with after market carbs is orifice size. I have an after market carb for my 4wheelr that is brand new and unusable because the orifice size is to big. Can't locate a smaller one and short of filling and drilling, IDK what to do.....

Most of those cheap trimmers have carbs whose inlet screens are 'hard'. They're not pliable. If you hold 'em up to a light you can't see thru it. This won't allow fuel to pass.

Clean the carburetor change the diaphragms

I'm a little bummed that you didn't have the luxury of time to isolate the problem; that would have made for a great (and helpful/educational) video!

1 cleaning is all I do then it gets an aftermarket carb. I always try to clean them first but we would probably be better off just replacing them from the start.

Good day Yes 1 cleaning would be enough, too bad u didn't have time to figure out. Yes medatian yes needed sometimgs Thanks

Get a new carb, I've ran into issues like this. There is a couple of check valves in the carb that are non replaceable. If one goes bad, a lot of times it will cause the machine to run lean or starve for fuel, and it won't adjust out well, if at all.

little of topic but when you restore old dirty chainsaws what solution are you using?

The aftermarket carburettor was the correct choice.

I really like your videos, I wish I could get a free push mower

it could have been a clogged spark arrestor screen

I acquired a 4 stroke generator looks very low hour turns over maybe too easily on the dip stick metal shavings and no oil carb smells like old gas. Didn't even try to start it. How can I get it running easily and cheaply?

Well some time a problem is going to be in the work's just got back up and go at again

The only thing I see you could have done different is run the carb through a ultrasonic cleaner with a solution , but then as said it comes down to time and money.

I'd bin the original carb, & put a new one in it's place.

Can't be the carb.

On these I had to replace the coil….

Assuming carb is inexpensive, clean once, then punt if that doesn’t work.

Did you get my last comments yet forum today yet???😁😁🤳🤳👋😻😻👨‍💻👨‍💻👨‍💻📹📱👍👍👍👍

NO, it was not the carb. It was loose fitting lines and the carb gasket. Just saying.

Exactly the reason I don’t rebuild customers carburetors, not worth the lost labor time and a better outcome using a new carburetor…!