🤔🏁🏁THIS man REALLY KNOWS what he's talking ABOUT I REALLY DO KNOW BECAUSE I am a REAL ASE certified Master Auto technician or a REAL ASE certified Master Auto Mechanic with OVER 60 year's of REAL experience 🏁🏁
I did the EECll ignition update on my 1968 Mustang 289 that you showed years ago and it works great. I also recurved the mechanical advance to give me full advance sooner
Great Video Guys .. ! I actually plated all the internals on mine.. I know, way to much time on my hands, lol. Will be looking forward to the adjustment part of this rebuild .. 👍👍👍
I know this video is old. But we wanted to see you work with the springs and weights on the mechanical advance. At what point do you need to change the springs to a different tension. Thanks. You guy do great videos. And I am a GM guy. Don’t hold that against me. Lol.
I remember guys arguing about manifold versus ported vacuum in the '70s. I have a '65 Falcon with a 289 with 4V carb and mild cam that likes ported, and I have a '60 Comet with a similar 302 that runs much better on manifold. Personally, I just run whichever one works the best.
Matt Farah's Million Mile Lexus hope base timing is at 0 on that falcon, need to look at total timing and adjust the curve. All in by 3k deeper gears and or light weight manual trans total of 36 or so is what i find works best. Nothing runs best for long with 50 degrees of lead tho
Thunderhead 289 has a great video explaining ported vs manifold vac. You're both right and he explains why and when you should do either. Hope that helps
Hi All, ensure you check the distributor plates too. In my 302, the slots that guide the top plate during vacuum advance, were severely worn and caused an intermittent miss that took me forever to find.
I used to run a Sun distributor machine to curve the advance depending on the kind of racing that the vehicle would be running. The Delco distributors were very easy to swap out the springs since they were on top. The FOMOCOs were a pain with having to pull the plates off to change the springs or add a rubber ring to the slot pin to limit the advance. There are also two cams (12210) that could be found. A 10/15 or a 13/18. That way you could pick how much total advance you could have. Anyone of those could be reduced using the rubber ring around the pin.
Electronics guy here: You need to do more to check the distributor capacitor. I recently founds an old box of points sets and decided to run standard capacitor tests on some old Delco Remy condensers/capacitors. They had more ESR than they should, and the Delcos were all leaky when I applied a high DC test voltage -- which a standard DMM cannot do. The one capacitor in the box that I found that was still good was on a set of points made by Blue Streak.
I know that a lot of people have said that the capacitors that are being produced now are not as good as original capacitors were back in the day for some reason. Thanks for the update on that I appreciate it.
@@AutoRestoMod I don't know for sure, but it's possible that the old ones were paper capacitors with the paper soaked in PCB oil. PCBs are toxic and are now rightfully illegal, but they did a very good job of stabilizing capacitors. Rapid charging and discharging of capacitors is hard on them, and I can see that the repeated voltage spikes of a point/condenser setup will eventually damage them. It may be that the plastic film capacitors we have nowadays do not like the combination of temperature and voltage spikes, even though they are technically superior to paper caps for other applications.
I would LOVE to see a video on the transition from ported to manifold vacuum. I’ve also been researching the subject and, based on what I’ve read, manifold vacuum just makes sense to me. Tonight I tried the transition on my 72 F350 and I failed. I wasn’t sure how to approach it, do I drop my initial timing to make up for the increase in manifold vacuum advance? Does an adjustable vacuum advance canister change the amount of vaccum or just how many inches it comes in at? I’ve got my truck pretty much dialed in on ported but I’m really looking for more mpgs which I know is possible with the transition to manifold. HELP!
Best video ever!! Thanks for the great info!! Question: Can you go further with these distributors? Isn't there a bearing/bushing that you can replace to fix the shaft wobble?
you will never use a box end to turn any GM distributor, if you do...means you did loosen the clip that holds it in place after timing is set... Also that HEI of GM will go on any motor small block or Big block from 1955 to 2007 non fuel injection motor. Just not the Oldsmobile 307 they put in some chevy cars...
i curious what your opinion on the cheaper ebay generic distributors...they look excatly like the name brand...but what about the internals,??? ive got one and im in the process of diagnosis of a hot erratic miss.
Ported vacuum? Are you high? Absolutely full/straight vacuum is the way to go. Ported vacuum's purpose was to limit advance at idle. This was an early 70s emissions trick. All it did was make engines run like crap. When catalytic converters were installed in 1975, ported vacuum advance was no longer required. After 75 GM went back to using full intake manifold vacuum advance.
This argument is like the oil argument. Some need ported and some need manifold. Look it up. I did research this before I did the video. And no, I'm not high, but your comment made me want to be...
@@AutoRestoMod A failed attempt at humor on my part. No offense intended. I'll do some more reading but IMO the only reason for a ported vacuum signal to the distributor advance pot was to limit advance until the car started moving. This was to clean up emissions while sitting in heavy traffic or at a stop light, which in big cities is clearly a huge issue. Vac advance at idle does create more emissions at idle but the engine runs so much better. My old Cadillac had two systems in place to prevent idle vac advance. 1) A thermal vacuum switch 2) 3rd gear signal from the transmission.
I am rebuilding a '69 VW Beetle which has its rear wheels raised so that I can run it with my transmission engaged in my garage. The engine knocks and will stall when I rapidly depress the accelerator. Why and what can I do to repair the problem?
Does it continually knock? If so, is it a low slow deep knock? It may be a rod issue. If it is a tapping like a small hammer on a wooden table top, it may be a valve or lifter problem. The other may be a fuel related carburetor issue. Do a compression test, check it against factory spec. If a cylinder is not gaining compression that could also cause a hesitation. Email me at jford@autorestomod.com and we can dig deeper.
Don’t be lazy and do the job correctly, If the top of distributor looks like crap then most likely the shaft will too! Disassemble the entire distributor fix clean and repair correctly!
How do you get a distributor that is stuck in the block out 289, have the timing cover and intake off connected a slide hammer with vice grips shaft came out and gear fell off but aluminum still stuck
Ported vacuum vs. manifold... no chance of settling that one anytime soon. Just note they are two different animals. With butterflies closed, manifold is high and ported is low. Open them up and manifold drops, while ported begins to see vacuum. These should require two completely different style vacuum lever arrangements inside the distributor and not be interchangeable. In air control valve terms, operating on manifold vacuum would be inverse acting, while operating off of ported vacuum is direct acting. There: now everybody's confused. You going to tear that wobbly one down and have a machinist make a new bushing for it?
@@AutoRestoMod oh alright cause I have a 1986 monte Carlo SS an for some reason when I did a burn out in it or do donuts in it the car just dies and it. Takes a while to restart it back like you don't hear nothing when trying to start it I must of started this car like 5 times before I gave up then tow guy bought my car home an pushed it in the driveway an I got in it an tried it again an it started right up for me
This is a another great reason to go with a duraspark ignition. Indians it's an old car good never had it go down to buy a brand new 1976 distributor for your particular engine. It will be a 285 series engine a 335 series engine it'll be an Fe or the 385 series all of which are obtainable brand new. 😆 Chevy guys.
ahahaha. I am actually really enjoying this series as I just inherited a 69 Chevrolet C20 CamperSpecial pickup that my Granddad bought new. It is tired and needs everything gone through. My buds and I are going to pull the motor and go through it this month and then the body work will be done first of the year. Keep up the great work.@@AutoRestoMod
Get a 75 390 Distributor from the parts store and the brain box (or a msd 6) No more point and you don't have to pull apart a distributor KEEP HEI OUT OF FORD PLEASE
@@AutoRestoMod OK a Digital HP (ohh new mobile one looks nice) then :) or the second strike box would work too, OEM distributors without me meddling inside them tend to work out good for me
I took out Pertronix I install 100 miles ago in my 1972 2.0 Pinto and put points back in because the car was back firing, tac jumping up and down, I'm just done with that after market crap. Car runs awesome again on points, Now I'm trying to get them to just refund me for it, Hassle. I'm making a youtube on the whole ordeal. ?? I ran my pinto around the block a few times with the 40,000 volt Flamethrower coil part# 40511 that came with the pertronix as a kit USING THE POINTS and it seems peppy, But I'm hearing on some google sites that it's not good to run a hot coil like that with points. because it will burn your points faster. I'm putting the Stock Pinto coil I have from the 70s back in because of what I'm reading about the hot coil no no. ANY BODY WANT TO CHIME IN ON HOT WITH POINTS???
the voltage does not go thru the points all points do lift gd off condenser lead and coil lead only time voltage is on the points s when the condenser is wrong mfd value or its defective then the voltage can not go thru the condenser to gd so the next best gd is thru the open points to gd which will cause points to pit over time--------the condenser value is very important it must match the coil for max current -- plain ole ohms law i=E/R must be satisfied my 53 dodge m37 has to have a 27 mfd condenser for best spark .3/4 in jump test
