Black Decker 20v Battery flashing red light This video is about how i fixed my 20V Black decker battery which was not charging and the charger flashes red. quick and easy solution.
Thanks for giving me the courage to open mine up. found a bunch of rusted off tabs and a few dead cells in my two broken batteries. Saved me from buying replacements. Glad I had a few 18650's stashed away.
Very helpful video. I was having the fast blinking light problem and this solved it. One helpful thing, you only really have to jump the battery for one minute or so. After that you can put the battery in the charger and it will charge normally. Either of these techniques sure beat the manual's reccomendation of disposing of the battery when you see a fast blinking red light.
Thanks John this really helped me, my power guns was almost brand new, and blinking red light, hook it up to another battery for about a minute and now it's charging with flashing green.
My blinking red regardless connected to the battery or not.I have disassembled the battery pack, charged properly each battery with Litokalla charger but the original charger keep blinking red....Any ideas?
Clip together two 9 volt rectangular batteries (e.g., from your smoke detectors) to get an 18 volt battery. A two or three minute jump start is all it takes to revive your 20 volt battery to the point where it will get a flashing green light and charge normally!
Worked. Just did this on a 2-month old B&D 2.0 AH battery (grey base). I had to let it soak up charge for 40 mins tho off a B&D 1.5 AH battery. But the new battery is now taking a charge. Thank you!!!
And this is why I will NEVER buy another Black and decker. My mom's did this after 3 months. Mine after about 8 uses. Clearly there is an issue that they arent fixing.
I've had so many NEW batteries going bad only in a matter of months. Cheap lithium? No idea what the issue is. Seems like engineered obsolescence to me.
Thank you, I took a similar approach. I purchased a cheap (Amazon) variable DC power supply (Kaiweets KP-1010). I just connected the + and - which are labeled on the battery and slowly moved the DC supply towards 18v and no more than 2 amps, for less than 30 seconds. Voila the battery is now charging with a green charging indicator.
Made the jumpers, hooked the bad battery to the good one, waited 15 minutes, and it worked! The problem battery ( which had been sitting around uncharged way too long) is now taking a charge. Thank you, you saved me from buying another battery.
Stopped into Lowe's on black Friday 2022 and found a battery in the recycle box. Was reading 1.5 Volts and jumped it with another battery for about a min. It read around 15 volts and charging it now. Thanks for the video.
Or do it at least outside far from anything flammable and a specific li-ion fire extinguisher at hand! Don’t throw water on it if the battery starts to smoke!
Fantastic! Jumped my battery using safety pins taped to the top of a 9V battery for about 3 minutes. No more flashing red, looks like it’s charging! Thank you!
Bruh this 4 years old and mines did this after 1 charge wtf... So I jumped mines with a car battery charger and now I got the green light charging.. 👌🏽
2 questions for you, what type of wires do you use to jump start the battery and my battery has strange screws, can i just connect the wires to the outside connections instead?
My battery will charge up to 18.8v then start blinking red.. supposedly it means it got hot but always cool to touch and not warm at all.. dunno.. i did however modify the battery from a 2ah to a 6ah but circuitry for all are the same whether 1,2 or 3c.. has worked fine for years with the laptop cells i put in it., just started blinking the red light.. if i reseat it the batteryvwill fully charge but just odd itll charge up most the way then blinky red lights..
@@Dubsinsauce It looks to me like the cells are wired in series (to reach 20V)... so not sure why desoldering was necessary - just metering across each cell, one-at-a-time should have been adequate.
Amazing bro! I bought a “new” drill from someone on fb market place and when the battery did the blinking red thing I convinced them to refund me half the money. Then a RU-vid search brought me here and with a $6 9 volt battery I was able to jump start the “broken “ battery and now it’s charging!
THANK YOU so much.. I had left my "bad" battery to charge overnight but it was still blinking red. After watching this I used a very old 9v battery - multimeter showed 7.5v - to jump the bad battery and after nearly 20 mins the bad battery had about 4-5v. I plugged it in and it started blinking green. After a few hours it went back to red again but I unplugged and plugged it and it was fine. It finally showed a solid green (fully charged)
You went through all that trouble to unsolder the cells from the battery management/charger board. And you would have been far better off to "jump" each cell individually (with a voltage and current controlled power supply) which would also give you an indication of each cell condition when you did that. You could have also measured the voltage across each cell without taking them out of the circuit for an indication of charge state. You didn't need to do any of all that just to try a 20V "jump" charge either. HAHA. Safer too, if you had one or two shorted cells putting that 20V on the system (with only 2-3 cells "working") could result in an overcurrent disaster to BOTH battery sets and your test area. Take care, and try that approach next time. -SG
So awesome, thank you for this fantastic walk-thorough and resolution! I jumped the battery that could not charge for 15 minutes... it became very warm and still would not charge (but the red blinking light pattern was different), so after letting it cool down, it charged no problem!!!
@@matrixmatico695 unnecessary he could have just tested all of them from the pins directly by fixing one to the - pin the black wire then the other multimeter prob to each pin left
Clip together two 9 volt rectangular batteries (e.g., from your smoke detectors) to get an 18 volt battery. A two or three minute jump start is all it takes to revive your 20 volt battery to the point where it will get a flashing green light and charge normally!
Fantastic video! I bought a BD 20-volt drill and battery from eBay for $28. They both appear to be brand new. I was disappointed when the battery blinked red. I tried your trick and jumped them for a couple of minutes. Viola! Works great. Thank you very much.
You should have jumped that battery in the first place instead of pulling it apart! Secondly you don't really have to wait 15 min. before trying to charge it. I have found 5 min works sufficiently. But that's me.
I keep a drill in my my car all the time, i guess after months without charging it, the battery will drain and that causing the red flashing when plugged
When I individually test my batteries I get 4.00-4.05 volts per battery on 20v battery but when I test them all together Its 0.02? What’s wrong with it. My drill won’t work. It overheated when I was drilling a hole with a dull hole attachment
@@papergatorzfedducca7998 lemme guess the little metal thing with hole in it burned if so just squish them down into echother then sand the surface wipe clean and solder I know cause I burned one out using as a power supply to melt metal so I put a lead chunk under it and squished it then on perpous over heated it by melting alot to get the lead nice and melted in works great not I can use to melt all I want untill it run dead
Seems best not to jump with more than 20 volts. I hooked up two M12 batteries in series and the volt meter read 24 volts. I jumped the Black Decker battery and the wires got extremely hot. Charger is now blinking green. Thanks for sharing.
So is this a version of the 'modern' car battery chargers that will not charge a very low battery, not turning on under those conditions? (I assume a 'save the public' safety feature so the two terminals can't spark or burn up the charger?
well, not something, I am a woman who does not solder, could do! But at least I have a partial answer. I have two new Black and Decker hedge trimmers, dated 2021, and both flash red. Suggests based on this that they have sat around uncharged for too long.
is jumping the battery, something that needs to be done often going forward with that battery? or is it like jumping a car battery; you do it once and it will last you till the next fu** up?
Alls i did was stick my battery back in my hedger and run it for 1 minute and plugged it back into the charger and its charging no need for all the mumbo jumbo you did
This works for me. Without disconnecting the batteries from the board, I just had to give each of the series a small boost for 10 seconds with another 4.2v battery and it worked.
Gracias amigo, si yo tambien cuando me paso, y si pense que fue porque se bajo demasido la carga y el cargador es muy lento, y es de muy poco amperaje y no alacanza a meterle carga cuando estan tan vacias, asi que necesitan un pulso con una carga muy fuerte para que reviva y el cargador a partir de alli pueda recargarla. Hice lo mismo que tu, con una bateria de 3 amperes solo le di un pulso de 10 segundos y listo cinecte el cargador y con eso fue suficiente para revivirla, saludos...
Thank you for this. I had just the opposite. I left my charger on the battery a few days (Forgot) The safety cutoff might have charged a little each time it tried to charge before cutting out?, (Not sure) It was charged to 21.5 volts and wouldn't power drill. I discharged it to another partly discharged battery until it was down to 20 ish and it started working again. WTH?
so basically you desoldered all the wires first before you tested the batteries with the multimeter.. then realizing that it just may be drained then resoldering all the connections again..
i am glad you liked it. you can go to my channel and checkout my other videos. If you like it please do share and subscribe. I do at least 2 videos per week, sharing real projects.
Thanks a lot. I had the same problem, and i jumbed my battery, who doesnt worked before, with another battery, and now the battery works. Thanks for the video, it was very halpefull.
Used a 40V battery to jump a 20V, which wasn't a good idea... The wires got hot in 2 seconds. But I hooked it up to the charger and worked like new again. Thanks!
An even simpler solution (at least one worth trying first) is pulse charging: Put the battery in the charger and then plug the charger in and out from the outlet a few times for ~5 seconds at a time. I tried it recently and it took about 5 rounds but then it started charging on its own
It just means each battery is oriented positive/negative in an alternating fashion, but he didn't swap the volt meter poles so every other would give a negative.
@@mhere7713 The LBXR20 pack that I have looks like it takes one of those "security" bits with a hollow center... years ago I bought a set, so I will try them. Yeah, the outside looks like a T15.
Wow... This video is super scary... Connecting the output of one lithium battery to the input of another, can cause a catastrophic voltage spike, which could literally cause them both to explode. Lithium ion batteries need to be charged at a constant voltage and amperage. Using the output of a full cell, will output upwards of 40 amps and these batteries should never be charged above 5 amps. This is a recipe for explosions. I have a 600 amp, 12s10p battery that I made, and trust me, one wrong move will vaporize a connector in microseconds... My arc welder puts out 200 amps... And trust me when I say, vaporize, because there wasn't even melted metal left, just black, charred wire ends. The safest (and still decidedly very unsafe) method would be to use a bench power supply, set to CC at 5 amp or less, and CV set to 4.2v. There was also, no need whatsoever, to de-solder the wires. You could have easily tested the batteries through the nickel strips they are spot welded to, or even via the wires you removed, as they are the balance wires for the battery, and any RC enthusiast will tell you, we check voltage directly from the balance leads.
This is the kind of comment I was looking for. Do you happen to know what the voltage(s?) should be on this particular battery, without taking it apart and burning down my shed by jumping it with another lithium?
@@targipgadponson5674 each cell should be kept to maximum 4.2 volts for full charge, and not allowed to drop below 3.0 for very long. Litium ion batteries like to live between 3.4 and 4.18 to be their happiest. The easiest way to bring this back, would be using an adjustable bench power supply set for about 1 amp and 3.6 volts. This won't be a full charge, it's just enough to get the battery management system to notice the battery again. Best case scenario would be to purchase a hobby grade Lithium polymer charger for RC cars, and balance charge the battery through the balance leads.
@@VulcanGoF Thanks for the reply, that's a lot of helpful info. Based on that it looks like my battery is good now. I too also wondered why there was so much desoldering in the video.
@@targipgadponson5674 there really didn't need to be, unless one of the cells in the pack were actually dead. And even then, you wouldn't really need to desolder the ENTIRE pack. It would be a fairly easy task to replace with a cheap Amazon spot welder. They're like 20 something USD. Not really suggested for Building an E-vehicle battery , but for swapping a couple cells in a power tool pack, they're perfect.
Clip together two 9 volt rectangular batteries (e.g., from your smoke detectors) to get an 18 volt battery. A two or three minute jump start is all it takes to revive your 20 volt battery to the point where it will get a flashing green light and charge normally!
I have read that happening, I can only speculate that the charger is defective now for some reason. i suppose if attaching it to a battery it does it's job, may as well still use it?
I had a brand new open box B&D drill I bought as a spare. It tested fine for 3-4 bursts, then only the LED light comes on. tried my chargers and existing batteries all work fine. So new battery has an issue. Put on charger fast flash red. outer terminals are 20.3 volts, same as my existing 2 working batteries. The voltage between terminal 2 and positive (term 4) is zero on bad one, but reads 20.4 on good battery. So obviously a difference. being that term 2 is likely also a negative terminal, I was going to just jump it. But I don't want to short out the charger in some way. I did try matching all 4 leads with jumper from good to bad battery sat overnight. did not change anything. Opened battery and all leads are intact, no broken solder traces that I see. Any ideas anyone?
