The oscillation of the pin that was in there is likely what caused the inner shaft to be off like that. From the pice you showed, it pulls it up and down in a "circle" or oscillating shape.
when he said "how did it get so ovular" my first thought was "well probably because the previous owner's replacement pin wasnt tapered or pinned and could do whatever it wanted"
In today's episode, Alec learns about inclusive angles (the sum angle over two planes or axes). Exclusive angles are angles taken to a datum plane or datum axis, e.g. the center of a lathe.
As a machinist, when your lathe does not have the compund travel length for making a taper, and you also want a clean cut made by the automatic feed, the process is actually relatively simple. You just offset your support by half the length needed to get the angle of the taper. (You turn just one side to make the full taper after all) You use the same part of the support to do that as you would when setting in on the axis. But if thats too much work on your lahe, you also can just get an insert that can be slid off center.
@@simonholmqvist8017 the rest of the post suggests a good command of English. A quick check of the user name reveals he is German. Reitstock is the German word and easily translated. I checked both before my earlier comment.
@@DaroffApFire That still doesn't solve the quality of their service. Which is bad, since no reputable therapist would work for them, because no reputable therapist wants to be available 24/7. They are not a good provider of therapeutic services.
please make sure that the flange that packs the rope is not to tight. If it is to tight the graphite rope will burn very fast. I would recomend to repack the cylinder. You should flatten the rope with a hammer. The flange will expand the rope when you thighten it.
Mental health therapy here in the Uk is free. Self referral systems are in place there are no costs for swapping therapists with them either. Yes there is a longer wait all the time but it makes no sense why anyone would pay for better help if that sort of system is in place already.
Not free, paid with taxes. And you might want help now not months from now. Even here where the NHS isn't at play getting an appointment can take weeks once you find someone accepting new patients (most are booked solid with existing patients).
@TEDodd spent the last 22 years of my life in the mental health services here in the uk in some capacity. Be it primary care or secondary from basic therapy to being sectioned for a lengthy stay. I'm really rather aware of all of that . Although I'm not sure national insurance contributions can be called a tax but tbf that's above me anyway . I've also had paid therapy privately and what was worrying there is it turned out to just be nhs staff as one i met told me they did both
@@davesmith7671How nice that you were able to access treatment. That's far from a universal experience on the NHS, and you probably benefitted from being grandfathered in after coming to the attention of mental health services before the Tories devastated the whole state. Your experience is not the default.
@@davesmith7671whether the individual you see also works with NHS is irrelevant. It's about time. Pay more to get service today or less and wait. That is the main reason people would pay for a service they might have available at no extra cost. I;ve read many accounts of people paying for services outside NHS because of the delays in getting services through the NHS. From simple diagnostic procedures like CT and MRI to major surgery and chemotherapy.
I'd be willing to bet that the use of un-tapered pins over time is what gouged the housing into that oval shape. The shape of the hole now seems to match the force the arm would be transferring into the pin, plus that little bit of movement every time without a tapered replacement pin just wore it out.
Welcome to the joys of rod packing and the adjustment thereof :). Also, when you finally put steam to the machine, expect the rod to leak but that'll slow down as the rod expands and makes the packing tighter; don't crank down on the packing when it's cold.
Alec, if you have a dead centre to fit in the headstock, you can offset the tailstock to machine a taper between centers. You can achieve very shallow tapers, and just as long as your machine's capacity. Just remember the difference between included and non-included angles next time.
this could be the next "The Curse of Oak Island", never gets anywhere.....40 episodes to get a ring or 2 into the machine, what trash this channel has become
Waay easier to use the compound, with advancing the carriage, reset cutter, to taper, without touching the compound angle adjustment. Rinse and repeat. Wont be for accurate machining, to the micron, but for this, meh, good enough works.
this series has been so good but here's the standard, gentle reminder: DO NOT TAKE BETTERHELP SPONSORSHIPS PLEASE. read into them - it's not a company you want to associate with x
To cut a long taper without a taper attachment you turn between centers. Offset the tailstock towards the front of the lathe. Install a drive plate in place of the chuck and use a lathe dog clamped onto the workpiece. It can be a bent tail dog with the tail inserted into a slot in the drive plate or a straight tail dog against a drive pin screwed into the drive plate. Put a little grease on the dog tail where it touches the slot or pin. You needed to put oil on the piston rings and shaft so it would slide easily in the cylinder and through the rope packing.
The rope packing is a bit tight but it'll wear in once the machine starts. Expect it to smoke slightly as it warms up due to friction. Leave the packing loose on start up and tighten it to get the seal once its running. A little lubrication on the packing will help too.
Hey man, check up skive joints for the packing. If you wrap the ends with PTFE tape before and after cutting you’ll get a way cleaner edge profile that won’t fray out. Leave it loose until you’re ready to start cycling the shaft, tighten until the shaft is only just restricted and then adjust once you start using it depending on leakage. Remember you need a little bit of leakage to help lubricate and cool the shaft. No leakage = friction, friction leads to heat and premature wear.
I have been waiting so long for this video, and as always, you never disappoint :) btw it was very nice to see you forging some metal, even if it was just squaring that round bar, keep up the good work :)
to do long tapers if you don't want to pick up a cut and leave a step in the finish or it would take multiple steps of the compound. you can always use a known parallel rod and a dti to throw the tailstock the required amount and then machine using the apron as usual. but setting it back to 0 is incredibly important unless you want to turn scrap for the rest of the lathes existing
My dad was a machinist, even has an article published in home shop machinist. He alway had a saying, "If it doesn't fit make it, if it breaks, it was probably going to break anyway."
for the longer tapers.. The tailstock on your lathe will most likely have a adjusting screw. Which means you can offset the tailstock by a little and that will allow you to cut longer tapered stock. just remember that you calculate from the head to the tail in length and offset the tailstock to give the angle. Simple trigonometry. 1 degree over 133.6 is about 2.332 mm offset. Divided by 2. so 1.166 offset on the tailstock and you have a 1 degree angle on your material over 133 mm. Most lathes have the Tailstock adjustment as if it gets out of spec and you need to adjust it to make it parallel again.
Curiosity here: when I started watching years ago, you made things, beautiful swords, knives, historical and fantastical. For the last year or so it seems you haven't made much. Mostly visiting places, building lamps and rebuilding old equipment. Now I'm obviously still sub'd and watching and I know content evolves, but when might we get to see another epic multipart sword build.
in the lathe, turning between centers, the tailstock can be adjusted so that it is off-center (it's ment this way), there should be a scale on it and the 1 degree taper is not a problem, over the full length capacity of the Lathe.
its easier to install graphite rope packing if you cut the ends at opposing angles so they overlap. This provides a better seal. Also with the install a large punch or flathead and just taking your time makes a world of difference. awesome stuff though.
@@opendstudio7141he’s turned with Dogs before, when he made that one piece stiletto dagger. And he always seems up for getting one more piece of odd kit.
I must say Alec, watching your content is entertaining and interesting. As an engineer of many disciplines I would suggest you spend a bit more time learning correct operations for your equipment such as offsetting your tailstock to cut tapers and speeds and feeds and using correct tooling for correct jobs. You have so much more potential in your shop and I wish to see it thrive. Black Smith is one discipline I still wish to learn and will continue to watch you and learn all I can
Regarding the pin for your roller, I suspect the original pin was straight, but wiggled back and forth making a tapered hole. Perhaps the best solution is to ream the holes back to cylindrical and either make a larger pin, or bush the holes back to factory diameter. (Small end of taper) Then drill the new pin for a grease passage and install a zerk somewhere accessible or install a drip oiler cup. I would suggest seeing if you could make a
I am a valve tech, we use the same packing on valve stems.i work with steam daily. It requires a few cycle of consolidation. Retighten the bolts and repeat. It is slow process but it works.
Loving this restoration, and I might have missed it but Alec does know that this is a Steam hammer, so he will need a Steam source to drive it presumably? IS the next step building a steam engine to power the steam hammer? Is Alec going full steam punk?
