Propane are here for last seven years. Good preparation I like how you use to Sanders to speed up your process. I also use Hans standing on every panel. You finish pretty much the way I do.
Thanks a bunch! I am new to spraying. So content like this is very helpful. Hard to find old guys locally to pass things along in trades outside your own. And with different setups, HVLP etc. It will be fun watching you sub numbers grow. I had a hard time getting doors to stay still when hanging. Haven't solved it yet. So anybody with ideas that would be great.
I just use my fingers and hold the bottom lightly. I use a clamp that’s the same size diameter of the door hanger hook and clamp it to the top and loosen it when I’m done spraying. You could also use a spring clamp to hold it.
Understandable to caulk the panel after the last guy goofed up. I prefer the Dap painters caulk 20min dry stuff. It dries hard and isn’t very flexible compared to other caulks which will cause cracking under hard coatings. I like the hooked dental pick to clean out the bridging. It works really well. Thank goodness those are maple and not oak. Oak is one hell of a grain to fill and flatten. Even with vinyl sealer it still takes about 3-4 coats with aggressive sanding inbetween from 180 grit to 220 and Bondo before acceptable for topcoats. Gotta spray oak doors flat to get the build necessary to fill in the grain. I like the euro fast cap hangers that attach to the door from the hinge cutout so there’s no drill holes. I noticed with gallery series it actually takes longer to dry than what is stated by SW if you put the second coat on too soon it causes micro bubbles which dimple when dry so I usually wait for the first coat to dry over night then scuff sand with 320grit and the fine 3M sanding sponge. Great video!
Yep, all the real problems no one wants to talk about. I just have found gallery to be so much less picky then all the other 1k products plus the fact that I have to fix all the inconsistencies with it. I did this set at night during the week while I was back and forth being out of town for work so it took me like 4-5 evenings. Don’t even know if I saved any time with the gallery honestly.
@@milosrestoration1337 CAB acrylic lacquer is faster and cheaper. Only problem is clients hate the stench of it for the day and a half it outgases. There’s a local paint company where I live in Florida called Florida Paints and they have a 1k product called Scott-thane. It’s just as good as Gallery if not better cause I can put a second coat on while it’s still tacky/wet and I have zero issues with micro bubbles/dimpling. Plus it’s like $40 cheaper too. Cabinet painting isn’t easy and id say most guys who are doing it are doing it wrong but you definitely know what you’re doing. Gallery isn’t bad just gotta understand the product and know how to work with it. And the data sheet is wrong. It’s 2.5hrs for recoat if humidity is above 50% and/or it’s cool out. Definitely a drippy product on verticals but with an hvlp it isn’t bad. I’d say it’s much harder to do it right with an airless. Usually I rock with a 1.4 mm tip and use a compliant air cap. It seems like waterbased stuff just does better with more air compared to lvlp air caps. Also when spraying vertically you should move the gun up and down instead of side to side it helps a lot to stop drips and sags. There’s nothing like having to fix 30year old oak cabinets and paint them white which is what I’m doing now and it’s hell. I’ve already burned through 3 gallons of vinyl sealer haha and if I was using an airless I’d imaging it’d be closer to 5. I really wish I had that surfprep that sander is awesome just wish it was $600+
Once someone does a bad paint job with lots of bridging, the panels are never going to move again anyway no matter what you do. Besides, with modern air conditioning, the danger of doors warping and cracking don't apply. That is a concern pre air conditioning days. On this job caulk is a no brainer and make the doors look so much better.
Agreed. Still hate doing it though, I still think that since theres a big move towards using different materials like MDF and HDF the debates definitely gonna be less relevant in the future, but for now there’s still plenty of those rail and stile doors.
As far as caulking these type of cabinet doors, I do it on every job. I am much better off with my customers for it and the luxe are fantastic compared to the black edge if you didn’t caulk them.
Nice video showing what a pain it is to correct a poorly done job. I just used SW Gallery, but it was on a fiberglass entry door. It took a long time to dry but it was around 50 degrees and they say Gallery is for wood. I used the Graco Quickshot and it worked great using their 308 ff tip. After that I bought the Tritech FF tip, but haven't used it yet. Which of the 2 do you like better? I've heard rave reviews for Tritech so would value your opion.
The tritech tip is fine, you just have to use a graco orange guard and then a graco one seal as well- not the tritech seal it won’t fit. That confused me for a while and I didn’t think it would work.
I don’t have a dog in the fight as far as which one is better. I think the appeal of a tritech is the whole pump operation, not necessarily the tips. Although some people swear by them, I was able to stop getting runs with them in this particular video so all the better I guess🤷♂️
I would use an awl and try to keep paint out off the panel cracks. Locking in a floating panel can be bad because the wood wants to move but the caulk can make the whole panel crack.
