Good Video! I recently got a Milwaukee 1/2” Drive Feul Impact wrench. Makes it really easy to loosen up the Blade nuts compared to all the years I used a breaker bar! Have a 4’ B/H Squeeler with 1&5/16” nut with no key. The round bolt head Has to be held with a pipe wrench
Thanks, I'll try to remember Your video. Mine has only a couple of uses over the 2 years I've had it. I mostly use the Loader, Box Blade & Forks, SO FAR. Ken
I have the very same cutter with the very same vibration. I will do the same repairs you did this spring. When mine started vibrating I stopped the cutter then restarted it and it smoothed out again until I cut something like a 1 or 2 in. tree limb.
I’m going to try this on my brush hog to see if it helps. I pulled the stump jumper off and the spline shaft has some play. Any idea if that’s normal or should it be totally rigid? What size nut is holding the blades?
Just FYI, a 4 ounce difference between the tips of the two blades on a 6' mower will result in 73 pounds difference in centrifugal force at 540 RPM (61 pounds for 5'). Losing a little more metal on one blade than on the other won't matter much, but a slightly different radius caused by a gummy pivot point will make a huge difference.
You screwed up big time, most Bushhog blade bolt nuts are one time lock nuts, each time you remove the nut is should be replaced with a new one. Most vibration I have seen comes from worn gear box bolt holes.
@@lacelleacres854 when they come off and go though a Tractor Tire don't blame me, lock nuts only work once, that same for lock washers. It's not worth risking death to do it cheap.
