I attended GM training center at Morse Town NJ the election teacher showed us how to soldier wires and heat shrink them he said that is the best way to splice wires together and he was a GM instructor and had engineering degree keep up the hard work making videos and have a blessed day today 🙏
Great job. Another trick I use is to stagger the wire lengths. So Connections go short to long, etc. And it reduces the s ku ze of the ball when you wrap them.
Unbelievable! I always use straight butt connections and even add a touch of electric grease inside to give the wire moisture resistance. Has never failed me.
I use the heat shrink connectors, bare connectors like you, and solder. If done correctly, they all work well. The problem with the HS connectors is the wrong style crimp tool is used. An incorrect crimper will damage the shrink tubing creating the problem you mention. Another problem is when a flame is used to melt the HS, they to it too hot and fast. It takes time to melt the glue inside the tubing. Just because the tubing has shrunk, does not mean the glue has melted. You need to see the glue squeeze out to insure a good seal.
Yes i use solder sleeves. Good enough for aircraft use good enough in a car. Just also use an extra glue sleeve over them as well and have had no issues with watwr ingrwss either. Also used in marine wiring where you find horrid work done.
I used to work on WVDOH snow equipment, We used heat shrink butt connectors, and you are correct, if the wrong crimp tool is used, the connector will fail. 35 winters taught me a lot about wiring.
Not counting the fact corroded wiring will not adhere to connections or solder worth a crap. Copper or aluminum wiring has to be pretty clean, and aluminum wiring requires more heat if you're using soldered connections. Doesn't matter how good you do any connector with corroded wiring, it will still end up with faulty connections.
I have trained and worked both in the automotive and the electronics repair industry and started at an early age of 16. I have also served in the military and even worked in such areas of highly specialized equipment and also areas of quality assurance and quality control. One thing that I can tell you about me is that I don't take shortcuts AND I still can solder and weld as need be like no body's business and I just don't get come backs because I learned both the hard way and the easy way of doing things in quite short order! Now that I'm about to push towards 67 y.o. I can still do repetitive tasking with some patience! This is what it is really about working in the servicing, repair and calibration fields! If there is someone out there that can't hack it but hack it PROPERLY, meaning do the job correctly, you are just wasting away at the job and it takes tenacity, metal acuity, fortitude and just plain real guts to stick it out!!!
Solder works best if done correctly. The problem is that most people don't know how to do it. The solder joints you showed were not heated properly and the solder didn't flow into the joints. I always solder and use good heat shrink. If outside the vehicle, I use plastic wire loom to protect the wires. I finish it up with tape and zip ties too.
When I was studying an automotive course at tech while I was at high school which was a joint secondary school initiative with them they did have soldering as a part of their course which is what I did. It's an effective way of joining wires to repair an existing loom if it's done properly meaning that the wire stands or surface which is to be soldered is perfectly clean & either rosin core solder is used or the liquid type of soldering flux is used. I have joined wires in automotive wiring harnesses no worries & the reason manufacturers don't do it like that is because each wire is cut to a preset length before being pinned at either end of the wiring harness. I am actually an electrician by trade & for the earthed bonding which is soldered in behind the meter/fuse box,the wire is twisted together then soldered,the solder is only to provide electrical continuity, twisting the wires together gives it its mechanical strength !
Ford Australia in the 80's used to solder the earth points/ wires to a common ground wire. Even some of the power circuits that branch out from a common source were soldered. Not sure how long they did it for. I'll check some newer cars when I'm at the wrecking yard next.
I solder some joints, but if i do it dam better than that gobbler job.the connecters you are the best if i have to use the other type i look for the split and try to make it the carved part just works better
I’ve seen even factory splice with sonic splice and heat shrink go bad and butt connectors go bad especially if you use the cheap crimping tool and tape sometimes holds in water making it worse keep up doing good work
Well Mr Kenny,had to make a new slide hammer just to remove a driver's side axle, Kia, used 6 ft piece of threaded rod,a 10 lb steel pipe, and a make shift steel stop a pair of vice grips, and it worked lol
I can understand your frustration Kenny! I've tried to solder, twice, on a couple of practice bits of wire and totally failed at it. However, even my pathetic attempts were a mile better than that!! I only ever use those 'butt' connectors on connection I know are going to stay dry. Last time I used any was to repair a friends car stereo that someone had butchered using those horrible Scotch Lock connectors.
I don’t have a problem with solder if that is your thing, but you have to do it correctly. In that location a good solder job is pretty much impossible. FYI, start by ‘tinning’ the wire. (Covering it with solder first), then solder you wires. If you get the right heat the solder will flow and not ball up like seen here. The downside is too much heat will damage the insulation on the wire. It is very tricky to do correctly. On the bench if you know how to solder. Under the car like that? Never. For the record, I’m not an auto mechanic. I work in industry on industrial measurement and control devices. I actually did quite a bit of soldering.
Man i feel ya. Ive been working on these npr's and the guy they have maintaining them was using house wingnuts on every fing wire he touched... i kid you not... its been months of repairs.
I don't even use those single point crimps(have seen those pull apart); use the professional ones(like those at the factory) that have compound jaws with the correct size anvils, so NO air will oxidize the surfaces or pull apart.
You keep saying that vehicle manufacturers don't use solder connections, but sorry to tell you that some do and several European manufacturers even state to use solder when repairing wiring and not to use crimp connections at all. The standard of the solder repair is the issue, not if solder is used. There's no single method for all wiring repairs, different applications, or environments call for different methods. You also said you have never had a come back on your wiring repairs, I've had to redo repairs done with your method multiple times over the years by alternative methods to make the repairs last, sometimes solder, sometimes adding a plug and socket type connection. I'm not saying that you're wrong, just that other methods are more than suitable depending on the circumstances.
They typically don't. He's talking about repairs. Sometimes they make you solder and sometimes you have to do it like he does in the video. You don't have a choice. If you don't do it the way they tell you, you don't get paid. Believe it or not, they actually check the RO to make sure you billed for solder and heat shrink or connectors and heat shrink.
Do you have a link to those crimps? I used to have a bunch but ran out. Need to get stocked back up, like you would rather use those and marine heat shrink.
Not many places sell that stuff. Your best bet is a dealership. Most brands force the techs to use same connectors and heat shrink in the video. I know Ford sells them both in packs of 6. If you can't get to a dealer, you can cut the insulation off a regular butt connector. Then you'll just have to find the heat shrink.
Eh, dont agree in the not soldering anything part Kenny, you ask where is there even one factory soldered connection on a vehicle, how about *every* circuit going to a module/board, every single connector pin on the board and all the on-board connections are... SOLDERED...
I repaired a pigtail for the throttle position sensor and it came with little butt connectors. However couldn't use them properly. The factory service manual said I needed special Rotunda crimping tool. I tried with my tool and couldn't get a good crimp. So I soldered them. But I did a nice job and used the heat shrink and works fine. Do you use a professional crimping tool?
I don't solder connections ether, i use marine grade crimp connectors with heat shink. I have the special crimp tool that does not put holes in the heat shrink.
If the butt connect with heat shrink splits, you are using the wrong part of your crimping tool!!!(use the correct tool, the will never split!)use the circle hole on crimpers, Not the other one, they are for none insulated terminals
The reason why car manufacturers do not solder is because all of the wiring is made by a different manufacturer and sent to them. They just hook the pre-made harnesses together. It is all about speeding up production. No wiring is made in house.
There is that, and the fact that soldered joints will break and fail on a motor vehicle. The environment is too harsh for soldered joints, and of course mechanical breakage and galvanic corrosion. wire to solid solder is a fatigue point, and butt connectors are more flexible.
People use the wrong crimpers if they poke holes in the adhesive lined splice sleeves. That's not the sleeve's fault. Spend the money and buy a quality set of crimpers. I used to work for a GM car company and in their connector repair kits they would have that style of splice sleeve in them. They are not as bad as some people make them out to be, they just have to be crimped correctly. GM actually supplied a great set of crimpers in their electrical repair kits they would send to the dealerships. I bought a set just like them, they work perfect.
Soldering is not used OEM because it's too material and labor intensive. A well-done crimp or a well-done solder joint will last the life of the vehicle. The term to key on is, "Well-done," however. Me? I solder and follow up with sealing heat shrink. If the heat shrink doesn't have glue, I dab the bare joint with liquid insulation prior to sliding the heat shrink tubing over. I also usually use two sections of heat shrink tubing to cover the joint.
@@ricebike "In-line resistor" Go to your electronics kit and pull the spool of solder. Cut a inch-long section of solder off the spool. Using alligator clips measure the 1" long piece with a multimeter on the resistance setting. Report the results to this comment thread so we can see how bad that in-line resistance is...
Kenny stop beating around the bush that whomever did the wiring harness was a hack🤣! Good job on doing it the correct way. Where do you get that type of wire connector? ✌🏻
They're just uninsulated butt connectors. They usually don't sell them in most hardware stores. If you get regular ones, you can cut the plastic insulation off the connector with a razor. Just be careful not to cut your fingers. If you live near a Ford or Lincoln dealer, go into the parts department and ask for the wire repair kit that techs need to use for warranty repairs or recalls. They give you 6 connectors and 6 pieces of high temp heat shrink that has glue in it. The strips of hear shrink are usually long enough for you to cut them in half, so you have some extras. The only thing I would recommend that's different that what Kenny does, is use different electrical tape. You want high temp electrical tape. Its easy to tell because its made out of cloth. Its also a lot stronger than regular electrical tape.
were the wires reading the sensor but was sending a bad/intermittent signal? or did it not work at all? i honestly don't care how solders look as long as they work, they don't break and are properly shrink wrapped.
I don't think that that repair was by someone who didn't care because they obviously tried hard to do something. I think it's more that they just didn't know what they were doing
If you look at pretty much any crimping tool, they have an option for insulated and uninsulated crimps. You need to use the one for uninsulated. If you're not sure, the insulated crimper crimps in the center of the connector and the uninsulated crimp cups around the connector. One leaves a big dot in the center of the connector after you crimp it. Use the other one.
When all the connections end up at a module-and they all do-the printed circuit boards inside the module have components that are soldered in place. I don’t think you give enough credit to soldered joints. They do have to be done correctly. If the connection is mechanically secure, adding solder will definitely improve the resistance and possibly keep out corrosion.
o2 sensor why did they not use the connector? dont understand why they cut it I replaced a few in my time never cut one to install a o2 sensor cut the wires to remove the sensor
IDK Kenny if that repair person cared or not, but he/she definitely didn't know how to do it. If that repair didn't clear the codes, I suppose the owner said, "go find another shop to fix this".
Thank you for this video and your professional repair of this wiring that was an abortion created by “Joe X the Rag Man”. People need to be made aware of these poser mechanics.
To me it looks like the red electrical tape was heat damaged, and the original wiring had some kind of insulation or heat shield on it. I'm a bit disappointed after all that that your repair simply was wrapped with electrical tape with no apparent additional heat shielding. Is there also high temp wire? I do like soldering. Not perfect, but it gives a good solid connection. I've had too many no-solder connections fail (usually done by other people). Those fold over clip type quick connections are the worst. I've also had factory crimp connections fail.
I detest anyone who does a hack job when doing work on anything especially a vehicle ! My Dad always told me if it was worth doing then it was worth doing it right the first time !
YES, the bad wiring didn't send the proper signals to the ECU/ ECM... So that triggered the trouble code for P0420-0430 He rule out the aftermarket converters since it looked fairly new as well Of course, some aftermarket converters are not made as well as OEM (they cheat on less honeycomb material inside)
That is just ungodly the worst wire repair ever, my 7 year old son could do better. I'm so sorry you gotta come across this kinda garbage, but hey if you didn't Kenny you wouldn't have videos to keep us amused. Good job brother and keep up the good work👏👏
Check the rework vids on chinese cars bikes and scooters ,,,,,,,,,, they remove most of the factory plugs as there cheap crap with no weather/water proofing in them , and solder the wires ,,,,,
No sense in even trying to solder connections if it's not done correctly, just a waste of time and aluminum wiring is harder to solder because it requires more heat. This is a pure example of a crap job that actually could have been soldered correctly but wasn't. The problem people have with soldering connections is it's not done right and it gives soldering a bad rapp. Absolutely nothing wrong with soldering connections if you know what you're doing. Problem is most people either don't know or just can't get it done right... or don't care to even try. Soldering takes skill, the proper equipment and practice to perfect. Stop blaming soldering, it's not the solder, it's the guy doing it.
