Fixing a fart-extractor (with schematic) 

surprisingly you learn pretty quickly how to use 4 fingers on your left hand to hold 2 wires facing each other for soldering

his hands now touched the fart-stained fan blades

John you soon get the hang of it, the number of times i have burnt the tip of my tong though when soldering it unreal, how the fcuk do i do that you ask? well the solder bends sometimes as you soldering, so you grip the end with your teeth and then pull it straight, problem is every now and then its still hot and the tong just don't learn, rather like when tooth ache eases off till its prodded again with the tong.

@@chrispartosbro4555 LOL. Kind of like the triple dog dare and getting your tong stuck to the flag pole ! I’d burn my fingers tying to hold every thing That’s why I have a old pair of extra hands that radio shack sold years ago I miss that store !

i just use my right foot to help out haha

This gun fits my hand better that this one

What, a farting professional?

My mantra: It’s _always_ the capacitors. I replace them preemptively in power supplies now.

Good to know

Haha! Depending on how & WHEN, that is too funny. One of those few breaks we get, where you end up saying "Really life? Thanks, just thanks"!

An evil genius would pipe the exhaust INTO the office cubicles.... 😁 Would add a whole new meaning to "Shitty day at the office".

The propeller stops in only 3 seconds. I'd say this one will die rather quickly if it's not lubricated

🤭😯 - never seen that happen, normally these would make a hideous noise before the bearings have failed and the performance to degrade, and did you see it starting to ooze out the ceiling 😬

I've headed of one that caught fire melting the structure, falling onto a can of shaving foam putting the fire out.

🥴💨🤢

SPRUITS PRÖÖT TÖÖT

Inrush? It's not just an inrush limiter. It needs to be there to set the current going in to the zener diode regulator circuit.

@@BrianG61UK No, you're talking about a rener regulator circuit, I was talking about the high wattage resistor connected directly to the AC line, it's for inrush limiting, unless I failed to inspect the schematic carefully. I've put together many of these transformerless supplies over the years.

@@electronicsNmore No it's not just an inrush limiter. It needs to be there even once everything is up to normal running voltage or there would be an explosion. It is not just limiting the current while the capacitors charge up when first connected to power. The initial surge while the capacitors charge is barely more than the normal running current in this circuit because the capacitors only charge to 15V and mains voltage is 240V.

If you need to "extract" them you might want to consult a physician.

@@dizzy_derps you stole and bettered his joke.

@@dizzy_derps Or dyno-rod.

I don’t want to sound rude but are you talking about a good grunt or having a open window to waft it out ? LOL

Working it out with a slide rule and pencil?

Any fan is revolutionary equipment

I'm a fan of this

If you get a chance to put a line fan instead of a surface fan. It is so much quieter.

@@assassinlexx1993 pretty sure 90% of the pubs in England that still have these have never replaced them

@@WezzRail So your pubs smell like a bathroom? Here in the colonies our drinking establishments smell then the same but with out fans.

We had a old Vortice one that was relatively old (probably from the 80's or 90's, no idea) I can confirm, this thing ran loud as hell. Unlike most homes, it was on its own power switch (although we would seldom use it), not tied to the lights. We ended up replacing it with a variable speed unit (the fan's speed varies with the amount of humidity in the room), so now we leave it turned on all the time. In normal circumstances it spins at a relatively low speed and quietly but when someone takes a shower, the fan definitely starts speeding up at full tilt and making a whole cacophony in the process (LOL). I still kept it in my scrap box, along with a newer, smaller Vortice (that is more barebones than the older one, the older one had small shutters on the front that would open when power was applied, the smaller one doesn't) that I have no idea if it works or not, but given how small it is, I can only imagine it makes a hell of a racket too.

@@WezzRail - and vintage vent-axia, xpelair, vortice, extractor/ventilation fans in their walls and windows - main pub area and toilets. 😁

I would consider that a reasonable planning phase duration. Be aware that the fan noise can make it difficult to hear BC when you are ensconced. 😉

I also have identical fans to those,4 actually,. Due to be fact that both my daughter's have failed to grasp the fact that you can turn off lights as well as on,those fitted in the toilets nearest their rooms have been on almost continually for about 4 years now including a continual 2 week stint for one in 2019. I was initially relying on the lie that they would explode if left on too long in an effort to get them to switch off lights,sort of hoping one would pack up and puff out a bit of smoke to prove a point,it didn't work and they have been faultless despite this. I have since given up asking!😄

You writing fan fiction? What is that? Why a story?

@@areyouundoingthatorwhat9181 Yeah ... that is how you raise good kids ... just give up.

@@areyouundoingthatorwhat9181i feel your pain, sounds like our house, i swear if they knew the oven had a light in that would be on, we on 3 levels, the 2 in question are in the middle with bathroom downstairs, hey will leave the bed room (1 light on) take 1 side step left to turn on the upper stairs lights on (2 more lights on), then take two steps right, go round the corner and turn the lower stairs light on (1 more), now they get to the bottom and turn on the living room lights from the stairs without entering the room (3 spots and a wall light), then enter the kitchen and press both switches, (2 x 3 spots and a 8 feet tube), are you adding these up? now we pass the fridge and cooker leaving these lights alone,!we then enter the passage and again press both switches, (3 spots and both that was 500 Watt outside lights but now led's) then enter the bathroom and turn on the the 6 feet tube, o yeah and they never close doors unless slamming, they turn on a total of 22 lights out of a possible 26 as the fridge gets a visit on the return trip (26 with fridge n cooker lol), all while there face is lit up with a friggin mobile phone.i swear i will fit them timer switches one day you get in rented shared stairwells where you have to press then race to the next switch while the light is still on.

And I have heard that the 🇺🇸 does things far superior than the 🇬🇧 that founded your country ~ your “bathroom” extractor fans have additional “deluxe” functions; lights, night light, heater fan, infrared lamps, and some can now play music and be controlled with a smartphone

Really like the avatar/picture. The left eye got my attention.

No.

Probably, it comes with experience.

If you go further back from the 80s ~ you would find Vent-Axia, Xpelair, and other [now commercial/vintage] fan company’s promoting their fans for use in domestic environments, only when the cooker-hood was invented in the 70s that smaller 100/150mm ductwork and external vents were made for them and then 🌟 if we made smaller 100/150mm fans for domestic use instead of the larger commercial ones, for use alongside the cooker hoods that use similar small ductwork & vents.

There are fan timer switches, I personally think they're great.

Yes we have those too, but in hotels and rental properties you don't want the occupants to have showers without turning on the fan, otherwise the humidity will eventually cause mould on the ceiling. That's why you'll see certain properties where the fan and light are on the same switch, so the tenant is forced to use the fan when showering.

I'd call CMOS logic #002. TTL was 001.

...making it the second in the series. The first is the 4000. Though I guess the 4000, 4001 and 4002 were all designed at the same time.

@@andreasu.3546 I'd say that DTL (used a lot on Concorde flight control avionics!) was no.1, then TTL as #2 and THEN as #3 there's CMOS.

@@klausstock8020 I think Andreas is talking about the _familes_ rather than the 4000, 4001, etc _within_ the CMOS family

@@klausstock8020 lol, good point. OB1

The preceding has been a public service announcement from Clive on Channel Five.

Greetings from the western side of this giant island! Glad to see signs of new life in the electronics scene :)

VT thanks! It's a quiet little industry, but definitely growing

I do have a Patreon page. Their support means I don't put adverts in the middle of my videos and have a bit of security if RU-vid delete my channel.

@@bigclivedotcom what a fast response too!!! I'm sorry i can't donate to you but i support in any way possible.

My old man's always called it 'the fart fan'.

I thought everyone called them fart fans.

A trump remover!

Fart grinder

Maybe it’s an regional term. I’ve always called it a fart fan, but fart extractor is nice.

Why? What's a taco bell

@@girlsdrinkfeck Taco Bell is a restaurant in the United States that's notorious for giving people stomach problems

Need a chilled water bidet since chilli burns both going in and coming out again!

No fan can handle taco Bell blasts either they clog with diarrhea or just get melted by the death cloud.

Taco bell does not exist in the UK

"Your biggest fan." - I can't help thinking this doubled as a pun.

I do not earn enough to pay strippers. I use my knipex sidecutters

*nibble nibble*

Of course measuring at say 100Hz instead of 10kHz a reasonable LCR does you'd see an even more extreme theta or D and whether that's ESR or EPR it says this isn't much of a useful capacitor at that frequency

This comment deserves more love.

"brilliant" Not really, what if there is a window, and there is no need to switch on the light during the day? I buy the cheapest ventilator, without control and a separate motion detection switch. It works even in daylight, and I can replace the ventilator separately.

Either that, or the previous occupant moved too much air in an antisocial way!

In-line ones are way better, and hide in the loft out of the way

@@bigjd2k I think that is an inline fan, There's a huge difference between decent well designed inline fans compared to the cheesy plastic junk we get in DIY stores in the UK

Their are newer ones that claim to be more quiet - when my grandmother/nanny moved out of her bed&breakfast hotel (retiring) and in a housing estate, the house had “GREENWOOD AIRVAC” branded fans in the; en-suite/main bathroom, down stairs toilet and utility room, despite the house being previously occupied, the builders/electrician had bodged the installation of the fans - they were the type that had built-in back-draft shutters [rear mounted butterfly, spring loaded that open with the fan breeze] unfortunately they appeared to be jammed on the flexible duct and (the builders/sparky hadn’t noticed, the previous occupant might have smelled the lingering loo (poop/wee) smell in the toilet and the humidity/smell in the en-suite/main bathroom - both have openable windows so he did that 🙄). 🧐 - I was looking at the fan in the main bathroom and despite it being in the wall, I couldn’t see the duct and vent, so I got a long screwdriver and poked it though the fan grill and impeller and pushed the flaps open and reported it to grandma, saying I would have to take all the fans out to fix the problem and I had looked at their instructions online, but as she had just moved into the house, she refused to have me remove them to fix, (despite my profession in DIY, and the fans having isolation switches) afraid I would break any infrastructure in the house, she got me to write a letter to her (certified/trusted) DIY man called Adrian - who did DIY and had a workshop at the hotel, to fix the fans for her 😕, she also wanted me to change the off-time delay on the fan in the main bathroom but I refused (as I wanted to take the fan out the wall and fix the shutter problem first) as that required me to simply take the front off and turn a set screw 🙄. Eventually all Adrian did was remove the back-draft flaps from all the fans and replaced the external louvred vents with flap vents on the back wall of the house (including the cooker hood that didn’t have the problem 🤨) Nanna might have got a backdraft in her en-suite shower/toilet as the fan terminated with a cowl on the roof with no shutter 😁. Inadvertently when we first came to the house and had dinner, we shut Nanna’s old dog called Bootsy in the utility room (so we didn’t have him lying behind the table waiting for food to fall) and I turned the fan on to ventilate the room for Bootsy (removing his dog odour) but to think that the fan was (later discovered to be) blocked up and just making a noise and poor Bootsy had to put up with it 🙁. Years later I noticed that grandma was leaving the fan for the downstairs toilet switched off - 😠, she said it was noisy (causing the ceiling to resonate) I said I profess in DIY and could replace it with a quieter one as they now exist - I liked the look of the “envirovent silent 100” as it also claimed to have excellent back pressure - for long duct runs (duct goes over utility room past its fan and to back wall of house) and phoned Nanna about it and she liked that it would be quiet and would apparently be more suitable for the toilet. I went with dad to grandmas house and said hello to great-grandmother (being cared for by grandma as her husband had died in hospital 😢) and with dad I fitted the replacement fan in the ceiling and tried it and Nanna was delighted to how quiet it was - “you couldn’t hear it with the door closed” - grandma, as the other fan still works l spared it and took it home and might install it (where noise isn’t a problem) 🙂

Same here. EBM Pabst makes 230V fans in the style of computer fans. I wonder if running one of those for 30 seconds would do better. Side effect may be pulling the door shut.

I did clean and santize as much as possible with antibacterial wipes before sending it to Clive.

@@physicmad 😂😂😂😂😂😭😭😭😭

😆

That is what i would do. Other parts of the power supply might need modifying too. As it is it draws over 1W continueously without doing anything, which is unacceptable. It is very inefficient. It should not be using any power when the fan is not running.

yes it's a huge common cause of failure on these. They use them both in the inline version like this, and in the ceiling mounted version. the resistor slowly toasts the electrolytics. The cynical side of me says they don't use a capacitive dropper precisely to get repeat sales.

The resistor may double up as a mini anti-condensation heater.

@@bigclivedotcom Could be. I'd like to see it partly cap dropped though. Being domestic sparks mainly, I have a box of them. They can be lucrative to keep. (There was a time when companies had the timed fans on special offer, and they were cheaper than the plain on/off ones... so I bought the timed ones and ...kept the results.)

Given the scorching below the resistor, standing well off the board, I wondered if it might be simpler to pierce the fan shroud in the vicinity of the resistor to have the fan itself cool the resistor -- feedback-loopishly. That wall between resistor and fan is nearly the low point in the circuit's compartment, so piercing it there wouldn't lend to water ingress…

Yes :)

Too many.

@@simontay4851 far too many, i had an plug in timer switch go bad due to cap going low, wasnt an electrolytic, though, a poly dielectric type,

Damn, I might well be guilty as charged ... but the fan had definitely gone, but I did keep the board for some reason ...so fantastic to see Clive explain how it works! Will try and see what components on mine might have failed. Excellent learning experience.

@@petebowcott8348 most electrical/electronic stuff being dumped is probably repairable if faulty, and some nothing wrong at all, just they want to 'upgrade' /have the latest thing...

The UK building industry never thinks further than a few months and supports Tories. Therefore the cheaper unit wins, heat pumps are rare likewise grey water systems and best not mention cladding (though to be fair it was Labour that relaxed building and banking regulation)

Yeh I've got mainly Servisol wick

And I think the iron has to be hot enough for that wicking effect, mine isn’t ~ a direct form mains soldering iron, I think Clive has a soldering station with adjustable temperature so that is why it works for him?

Personalised fragrances 😆 🥴💨🛌 🤢 (Dutch oven 😉) 10/10

Well that's a shitty thing to do

Couldn't you leave the light on and use a blindfold?

A bidet is good for this problem and to keep things nice and clean in general.

I hate the running fan too, but I am not brave enough to force others to enjoy my lovely poo smell. So I found timer, that is triggered just after the light is switched off.

dont blindly trust those testers, they can give skewed readings in certain cases, especially with electrolytic capacitors, if the cap hasnt been powered up in years, it may have unformed slightly, and indicates bad, resistive, or very high capacitance, way out of tolerance, its not necessarily bad as such and may be perfectly ok once powered up for a while , ideally to full working voltage,

In additon to the capacitive dropper, I wonder if Clive could try inserting a resistor to reduce the charge current into the timing capacitor. If it works, it would provide a grace period of say a couple of minutes when you want to visit the bathroom at 3am for some minor personal reason, and don't want the fan to cause a disturbance. Even when you intend to have a shower, or are likely to be emitting methane and sulphur dioxide smells, it's usually a few minutes before the fan needs to start running.

It's been pointed out that the use of a resistor may double up as an anti-condensation heater.

@@bigclivedotcom Never thought of that, that's a good point!

My idea is to have the resistor on longer tales, bend it at an angle and put it through a slot into the air flow to actively cool it down, but as Clive has said, and it would eventually get dust on one side 😕

@@samuelfellows6923 It would be easier to specify a slightly higher power resistor instead of messing about with creative methods of thermal management. Most fans aren't spinning for even 1% of their lifetime, so forced air cooling can't be an option.

We have that with our “safety extra low voltage” 12v fans ~ an external box with the time-delay and step-down transformer outside the bathroom/shower-room and the fan inside the shower cubicle

Don't think a 19W fan uses capacitor

whos drainaddict? all thats missing is AvE

@@frogz Who is AvE?

..............why did i just spend 15 minutes watching a guy and a presumably fake rat(it could just be old and have stiff joints and hard time moving) unclog a shitty drain with coucabara birds in the background making australian noises for a bottle of red wine???

Don't forget GreatScott (PCB with red LEDs) and ElectroBOOM (Full Bridge Rectif... You possibly know him already.)

DrainAddict is a serious addiction!! I was hooked quite awhile back and I've been unable to shake it.

That system is used in some composting toilets I've seen, and it works quite well. If porta potties added a small solar panel and fan they would be much less unpleasant.

They may not hear you - but they know what you're doing!

@@lloydpenfold486 I also know when they've taken a dump 'cos they have a Saniflo macerator - weeeeEEE!

I call them 'midnight downloads.'

Those fans are very stable. I've never come across a dead induction fan like this. They usually survive for decades and decades!

I usually keep my full notebooks.

@@bigclivedotcom Thanks.

@@bigclivedotcom some day in a B C L stream, can we see them (all) including some that have previously not even seen videos? i wanna see the PCB and it's reverse of the inside of your microwave oven's control panel!! er wait... did you do a video on that? ok how about the triac dimmer in your wall plate??

Yeaaa but when i wanna rewatch something important i cant find video about that...

no, it is actually its purpose. it extracts farts out of your toilet. literally.