BigClive, you’re perfection man. Been watching your vids for years, do I know what’s going on, nah not really. But I do love taking stuff apart to see what’s inside as well, more so on the mechanical side of things. Your videos for some reason are so relaxing. You know your stuff, and can hear the pure joy and excitement in your voice when you’re doing surgery on these things. Love it, never stop!
Always wondered why they called those packages blister packs. I would have thought laceration packs would have been more appropriate, given my experiences trying to open them.
Originally, blister packs were made like this but the cardboard at the back was perforated so you could easily push out your actual product. Over time, this was omitted. I think due to cost measures just so save a few 0.2 ct per unit... In Europe, pills are distributed in blister packs, too. You push them out through a blistering aluminum foil at the back which sometimes needs excessive force. In NZ, pharmacists push them out for you into a little container, useful for older patients who don't have the force in their hands to get to their important medication...
@@kyoudaikenI suspect the increased difficulty in removing items from packaging was intended as a theft deterrent. It’s harder to conceal an item in its packaging. Also, the packaging sometimes contains an alarm tag.
I have been using the Energizer 350 lumen for the last few years and it has been very good. Takes batteries, so you can carry more with you. Dimming mode, IR twin lights plus a main clear led and two more independant frosted smaller white lights £15 on Amazon uk. Good vid.
I'd never considered using a diode for noise reduction before. I may give that a try since I have some PIRs that false-triggers due to being on the same line as a servo motor.
Reading the "User Guide", it say "3W CREEE LED" on the front, but "3W CREE LED" on the back in the Specifications. So it might be a genuine CREE LED after all. My resistor is now desoldered and plastic bump smoothed out. Thank you for this advice🙂
you should upgrade to a 20Ah AGM strapped to your forehead. not only will it have crazy runtime but you'll also get a real bullsneck from wearing it. 🤣
Sofirn sells some headlamps with USB-C and replacable 3000mAh 18650 battery for the same price as this one. About 1000 lumens, variable brightness, dual 4000/5000K high CRI LEDs and it's lightweight, small and angleable.
Olight Perun Perun/2 come with a magnetic Charger I believe. At least their other lights use magnetic USB charger. It could be a micro USB charger too IDK, been a minute since I used mine, and I don’t have the new one. But Olight make top notch Flashlights. I have an FDE Valkyrie Mini on my Glock 19X. Not Surefire, but I trust them.
Everything should be USBC, and will be at some point. All electronics, TVs radios, even lamps at home. Basically anything in a house that doesn't have a motor or a heater. Makes no sense for every device to have its own rectifier and DC power supply
Are there footprints interchangeable type-C ports with micro or even mini-USB? I have modded a Nintendo DS with a micro-USB port but it wasn't that easy lol
Love it. Thanks Big Clive. I have one of the "older" ones like yours and It's my favorite right now. I have a couple of the bulkier ones like these too. I have been thinking about adapting one of them with an LED strip to create more of a wash than a spot which if you're just sitting there reading is annoying. A wash would be different wouldn't it? Perhaps I could also just put a bit of Spun or Diffusion in front of the LED as well.
Piece of scotch tape will work but you lose some efficiency, best would be a TIR lens, the Boruit D10 can be easily modded with a wide flood TIR with 85%+ efficiency
I've dismantled various back-lit LCD displays and found that many of them incorporate special films behind the colour layer to diffuse the LED backlight. Some of these films can be excellent for incorporating into LED lights to diffuse the beam, they are easily cut to size with scissors and can be fitted behind the lens in so e torches and lights. Sometimes you will find films in side-lit displays that diffuse an LED's beam sideways only which can be very useful in some applications, for instance I improved a bike front light by diffusing the beam sideways so that the full width of the paths I ride on was illuminated while little light was wasted in useless vertical 'spill' of the beam. Such films might be useful on a head-torch if you could attach them neatly.
Bought two of these on the back of this video (because Big Clive is never wrong)! Great job! The battery managed to last pretty much the whole day today on the 'medium' light setting while I did a bit of wiring. Have a second for my workshop which is great for working on cars. Unfortunately I was about a day late because presumably lots of others had the same idea as me and they were not that cheap on eBay lol
The SOS modes are for people who go hiking in mountains when there is no phone reception. You can shine the SOS down the mountain to the next village and hope somebody who is looking for you sees it. With ubiquitous cell coverage even on mountains and power banks, this has become less useful nowadays though.
I'd rather wave mine hand in front of it achieving same result, then having to circle through modes every time I want to switch the light off... the likelihood of me mistakenly switching the light to different mode and then then missing it because it got discharged is at-lest to me more likely then a chance of breaking both hands unable to cover the torch and uncover at the right intervals. I would have said that most of these modes are targeted for the same people. People who like shiny features...
I appreciate the feedback on this Headlamp. Due to your teardown and review of this brand , I ordered and now have used the 300 lumen version. I love it ! My model is the 40079 version. Thanks Big Clive for doing what you do.
I highly recommend the Petzl Swift RL, which automatically adjusts the beam type and output power based on the reflected light, and I must admit that this system is very precise and sensitive. You can find many good deals for this model because people don't understand RL technology and think that this is thesama as FacetoFace which was implemented in Pixa series of Petzl headlamps. I have try many brands but I ALWAYS back to Petzl because of the quality of their products.
That, and Black Diamond. I actually even find Black Diamond slightly better, but they're basically on par with one another. The only thing I don't like about them is the lack of high power high battery capacity headlamps from either manufacturer. I occasionally go caving, and for that I need a headlamp with both a wide-angle dimmable floodlight and a powerful but dimmable focused beam for far away, and it needs to have as much battery capacity as possible which pretty much excludes AA and AAA batteries and only leaves 18650's. However there isn't a single headlamp from either Petzl or Black Diamond which fulfills that requirement, the few headlamps which do have a high power dimmable floodlight and beam light are not just incredibly expensive (€100-300), they only run on AAA or a small Li-Po as well which doesn't produce more than 1200-1500 mAh. Meanwhile my cheap Chinese headlamp does have all of these qualities, both the dimmable floodlight and beam light and it also takes a pair of 18650's which in my case are 3450 mAh a piece. But these headlamps being cheap-ish Chinese ones their quality is definitely inferior, and they're incredibly bulky, much more so than a comparable Western-made one. Fortunately I recently discovered Fenix headlamps and they do have almost all the required qualities and takes 18650 or even bigger Li-ion batteries, just not dual or triple batteries, but you can't have all it seems....
Look into higher end Sigma bicycle lights. Very interesting and impressive engineering (and mounting options). USB charging and they can be driven via an external powerbank. I’ve experimented with various lenses and the beam can be widened some simple optical wide angle adapters. You might be able to adapt smartphone lens adapters as well. They run about 2x what the Black Diamond (cheapest) lights cost. Random idea
I recently bought a Nitecore NU17 which I was very impressed with. By far the best control scheme I’ve found. Just three modes, low med hi, starts on low. After a few seconds the next press will turn it off instead of cycling. It does have an sos mode by long pressing, but you won’t ever accidentally activate it which is wonderful. Rechargeable, very small, smaller than the ones you have there, bright, not too blue, and about £15.
Clive, where can I make formal contact? I design for a company called Swift Sensors- and we would love to have you take apart a sensor and a gateway- they are BLE-based, so maybe it's not your realm as most of our programs run at 15-50uA average, but it would be an interesting Collab! We could send you the gear.
What drives me crazy is having to cycle through the bright stage, to access lower power lighting. It's like pouring a gallon every time I just need a quart. At least some engineer could make it ramp up, low power first, press to turn off... thus no big power draw(s) when not needed. It's about energy conservation. One of these companies could easily lmake one with a slider/dial to choose brightness, with a seperate on/off buton/switch.
No headlamp (they aren't "headlights" - headlights are what are on cars) even comes close to the build quality of the Surefire Maximus. I have about 100 flashlights in my collection (most modified by Vihn Nguyen) and not even any modified LED comes close to the Maximus. You may get slightly more lumens, but not as an overall package. Surefire is so high in quality that they're almost impossible to upgrade.
I prefer headlights to. As a midnight gardener. That is when earwigs come out. I however hate the fact alot of headlights are designed to use alkaline. So what happens when you use a rechargeable? You obviously get a dimmer light. Mine uses 3 AAA with 2 white in parallel, or one red(ancient Brinkman brand). In the many years I have used it. I had to replace both white leds, and the headband is no longer elastic. I have yet to modify the limiting resistors for more brightness, or use a 4 series AA holder with extension wire for rechargeable use. Maybe also convert to 4 D cells because frequently recharging AAA cells gets old fast for a couple hours of decent brightness. Having many rechargeable's on hand helps. It has worked so I procrastinate on modifying it. I also have one of those 3 x 5 led matrix cob versions. It is blinding with fresh alkaline's, but sucks the power.
The only reason they push LEDs so far is just so slap a few hundred lumen more onto the box and have people buy new ones every 8 months. People should understand that by halving the current through an LED you get maybe like 30-40% less light because LEDs don't reduce in intensity in a linear manner, and additionally light perception is also more logarithmic than linear, so it doesn't appear that much dimmer.
I'm always wary of LED lights that run on three AAA batteries as some of them have literally no drive circuitry whatsoever, which eventually fries the LEDS.
New favorite budget headlamp is the Sofirn D25LR, Samsung LH351D 5000k high CRI 90 LED emitter, Luminus SST-20 red LED, removable 18650 cell, type-C charging, for just $20 or so, tail cap also shows SoC (green > 60%, yellow > 30% and red < 10%)
That reminds me I need to get a new headlamp after I dropped mine last summer. I really liked it because it used two 18650s which gave you insane run time on the lower settings or a really bright light if you need it. The 18650s do add weight to it but the run time is worth it especially when I have to go clear the driveway before work after it snows or during a power outage.
Have a look at the Skilhunt H04. Really good headlamp, a single 18650 and metal casing makes it a bit on the heavy side. 8 different brightness modes, from extremely low to dazzling. Still i am ordering the one Clive featured here. Having options is useful.
I’ve got a nitecore HC68 that takes a single 18650 but also has a usb c charging port under a waterproof screw cap on one end Incredibly bright on high but lasts forever on low
I have the now discontinued Nitecore HC65, it has a bright LED with various settings, single 18650 - however it has a high CRI very wide angle light on there too which I really love - gives a wide very natural light. They run their circuity without PWM (it's constant current, so it's not actually flickering fast. Which means if you're out in the rain the rain drops don't turn into dots in the air with the pulses from the light, like they do on many head torches I've tried. Unsure which of the current range is comparable. Only downside to mine is microUSB (slow) built in charging.
Same, bought a load of them for under £5 (could have even been less), a few years back and gave them away as Xmas pressies. 2x 2000mAh li 18650 batts, three LEDs, centre, sides only, all and strobe (why I'll never know). Certainly not waterproof, but they had the red led glow on the battery box which was on the back of your head. So thumbs up from me, and they (3 that I know about) are still in good use. 👍(Non branded lights and batteries)
It's Amazing,.. The number of *Brand Name* devices mentioned in the comments. 90% come from the same factories in China. And 90% you can get *Unbranded* on eBay. And probably Amazon and blah blah blah. I shop eBay because of their policies on Product Descriptions. I have about 7 flashlights and 3 headsets. NONE of which I paid for. Or, more accurately got full refunds on. And to make a long story short. All you need to know are simple things and specs on devices. Know almost every item eBay from China has Overly Inflated Claims. AND, that they don't want to pay return shipping,.. so you'll get them free. Just costs you Time. Have a nice headlight with a Cree 50.2 led. That has the Zoom feature, and dual 18650 batteries. It's a HEADLIGHT for sure. And fully adjustable. And Free. Have some nice flashlights with Cree 70.2 LEDs as well. Those, are Really Headlights. And shine a good 1/8 of a mile no problem. Have like 3 of those. But the key is getting Good Batteries. I use Samsungs, because they seem to have the longest run time overall. And hold a charge well. Luckily, they seem to be built different than their Phone Batteries, thank God. All Fun Tools and Toys 🤗 And always Fun Videos 👍🖖
I did a quick google and it appears these are being sold by tool shops, marine chandlers and garden tool suppliers for prices from £9-16 so if people are looking for one it shouldn't be too hard to find something local. Not that I'm discouraging people from visiting Ramsey, I went their once and its a charming place.
I recently bought a new head light for a relatively cheap price(15€). I didn't think much of it, but I risked it anyways just to see. When I saw it in action though I was quite impressed. -It has a sensor to activate and deactivate the super bright main light, which also can be deactivated so that it works without the sensor. - it has an optional red light mode, which is great for fishing when you don't want to spook the fish, which is mainly why I bought it. -it also has several dimming settings and an "on/off mode" - but the most amazing thing that I found out about the lamp is, the rechargeable lipo battery pack is easily accessible, with just one click the back cover opens, and the battery pack is plugged in and not soldered in, which makes a battery swap super easy. They didn't even mention that feature on the packaging, but I think they should, because that's not so common to be able to swap the whole lipo pack in such an easy way. The importers brand is "EasyMaxx" but the problem is that I couldn't find it online, so I can't tell you where to get one unfortunately 😔
Just did a search for this exact light on eBay and it's available from the UK for $35AUD(about 18 UK pounds) and $19.95 postage. Pity as I would like one but refuse to pay a crazy price for stuff just because it's online. Also can someone explain why every LED torch these days comes with the annoying features of SOS and strobe? How many people would actually use it in day to day life?
I like the Petyl ATEX Pixa headtorch but use it with USB rechargeable lithium AA's as otherwise it eats batteries. It has no bells and whistles (stupid flashing modes etc.), very rugged, won't turn on accidentally in your bag when in it's storage position and you can change the batteries. I hate torches with fixed batteries.
Some people have servants , lighting , heating and live indoors Others have head lamps , torches , tents , and go camping True those that live indoors need to have head lamps for power outages
I see a lot of event crew that hold torches in their teeth and just wonder "WHY?" there also seems to be a lot of willy waving about having the most pointlessly stupid bright "tactical" torches.
Great for personal work, horrible for crews. I used to hate working with headlamp guy after dark. Every time he looked my way I'd trip on something or smash my shin.
I've got the "original" Chinese one you recommend long time ago. The only bad point is very focused beam. Reaches very far, but a head lamp should have wide beam so you can shine at your hands and under your feet.
Thanks for the presentation, Big Guy. I have joined your cup a month tier; wish I could pay the full value of tuition, so I am grateful for your generosity! Thanking you from the extreme southwestest corner of the U.S. ... Edit: thanks to those who comment here, very educational, as well...
I personally dislike the IR auto-sense ones, as I'm often working close to machines/ walls/ etc and the auto-sense keeps turning off the light... If you just put a bit of insulation tape over the IR bits, then they work without issues.
Hey Clive. Have you seen the ads for “HeatPal” looks well fake to me. With loads of suspect commenters saying how brilliant it looks and how they’ve just ordered one. Meant to create tons of heat from a plug in small device.
Seem to think he's already done a video on this - the ad claims huge output but for 500w in, you won't get any more than 500w out 😁 Search reveals this... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sPnLnk35XsY.html
The IR on/off feature would drive me nuts, otherwise, it seems like a decent light, though my go-to is an Energizer HDB322 head torch I got from tesco some years back that found its' way onto the reduced shelf due to packaging molestation, and I hid it amongst other stuff on the shelves 'til I had the money to buy it a few weeks later, really handy thing, been using it recently on fixing CRT TV & monitor stuff... :D
Update. Been using the headtorch most days. Only downsides, downwards angle is a little limited or maybe my forehead is at the wrong angle? and the on/off/infrared button can be a little difficult to locate with cold hands. Could do with a nobble on the switch, so you can find it by feel.
another update. Been using this headtorch most days for over a year now. Still love it !! Also did the Clive reduced power resistor hack recently, just cut the track to one of the pair, easy to redo if I change my mind. Slightly different PCB, the two resistors are on the back but roughly the same location.
A class vid as always Clive. Could you please make a short vid of how to do the power down hack you've mentioned in this video and thanks for all your interesting works and the fun laughs with your brother over the years. ;) I linked with your vids many years ago when you made the one about a cheap sim tracker and your dear old Mum; I used from that vid one of those trackers for a few years until Australia sadly turned off 2G other than on Christmas Island which I be believe is a bit of a crabby place ;) I now use a completely totally overpriced running costs tracker that is no better than your original tracker that you called into and then Google-Mapped the grid reference from the text return. So Clive have you got any cheap tracker ideas that run on 3G and 4G Australian network sims or any other system methods that you reckon are OK with reasonable running costs today ¿?
I've been using Boruit head torches for years now. They're bigger than the torch in your video but their light output is pretty good, and goes between middle, 2 sides, all three, or SOS. I got a new one recently that also has a red LED which can be switched on with a long press, also the main LED (and red as it's in the centre fixing) can be focussed using the ring around the light. I like how they just gradually get dimmer as the voltage lowers rather than just abruptly cutting out. I use mine for walking down country lanes, so very much need it as bright as possible to be seen.
@@carbonstar9091 yep, I too had the Boruit D10 for years, recently upgraded to the Sofirn D25LR, essentially the same headlamp but Samsung CRI90 white+SST20 red
Anyone that is interested: SKU 961712 Operating Modes: High / Mid / Low / Strobe / Motion Sensor Luminous Flux: Up to 200 lumens LED: 1 x white LED Focus: Fixed focus Beam Range: Up to 55 m Run Time: Up to 5 hours Charging Time: 4 hours Batteries Required: Built in lithium polymer rechargeable battery x 1 Weight: 50 grams Dimensions: 50 x 30 x 36 mm Switch Type: Push button / sensor Impact Resistance: 1.5 m Regulatory Compliance: CE / RoHS Core Lighting CLH200 Rechargeable Sensor LED Head Torch
I use head torches camping, (plural), a decent waterproof one and a tiny cheapo, lightweight one from the poundshop as backup, low power mode important as I wild camp and something bright will give away location, red light a useful feature, but flashing red light utterly pointless, angle important, I tried the IR feature on one, its good and bad in a tent, handy if cant find torch but comes on when you dont want to, so can do without. If we do get powercuts this winter, these gadgets will be handy, as well as Candles, Diesel Heaters, Paraffin lamps etc, will be just like camping!
I bought one of these for work after watching your teardown. Luckily, mine had no issues with casing flash against the battery, I did your mod and am very pleased with this light. Love all your videos. Keep up the great work.
That looks like a decent bit of kit! I may see if I can get one locally. I have an old and tired "LED LIGHTS" photon pump headlight. It's a damnably good light, but it sticks out about two inches in front your forehead. I can see where this Core light is going to be much handier in small spaces. Also, my old light isn't rechargeable, which is not very handy when the battery goes flat. Yeas! I like this one...... Does it get warm against your nut?
I use nitecore (chinese HQ-ish brand) HC65. I like it. Takes one replaceable 18650. Also small-ish Unfortunately its got a gazzilion of useless features but they dont interfere with normal selection of intensity. But some are useful. Price was around 50-60€, way better than 10€ crap. It does have issues, its not perfect, but best one I used so far.
The build must vary depending on production dates etc. I have the exact same light, same packaging but the battery is thinner and labelled 600mah , the PCB is the same, while the top was off I snipped off a resistor to extend the charge.
CREE Inc last yеar sold their LED division bundled with the trade mark CREE LED to a now holding founded in California in 1988 by three gentlemens with hindu-pakistani names called Smart Global Holdings and renamed themseves Wolfspeed Inc with a plan to become SiC semiconductos production leader.
Excellent as ever, I would note only one possible (mechanical) problem with the design; the double pole switch? That might be a weakness but I don't know anything about the MCU, if the 'pull to ground' is not simultaneous, might that be an issue? Pax and respect 'oh mighty High-Heidyin of the confused electron'
Hi Clive. Unlike you I always avoided rechargeable head lamps. They had a bad habit of going flat at the worst possible moment. I chose instead to buy lamps that took AA cells. I always carried a box of spare batteries and cells for all my gear. My last job was exclusively diesel powergen and nobody ever lit their plant rooms well enough to do anything but basic servicing.
@@rexsceleratorum1632 since I am now seventy and five years out of the workforce I don't care any more. I was in the diesel powergen industry exclusively for twelve years beffore I retired. I can assure you there was nothing worthwhile around in rechargeable back then. I know because I bought the best I could find and they lasted only a few hours. If you have your head in a control cubicle for a day you would need too many lamps to get through the day. One of my toys they let me play with was a diesel peaking power station. There are 16 gensets each pumping out 1.8 megawatts. Each one burned 427 litres of diesel an hour at full power. I spent a large proportion of my time there with a headlamp on.
If the rechargeable headlight is good, I buy 2... If you HAVE to carry something (extra box of batteries) I'd just rather carry a whole extra headlamp.. 🤷🏻
Alright Big Clive Been using the LEDLenser MH10 for a while now and it's without a doubt the best i've used. The 18650 cells can be changed over if they don't last the whole day and the head band can be changed over quick when it starts to Rinky Dink. Got some 1 inch jacquard elastic for that from eBay, cut it to about 1200mm and no sewing required. I got about 3 of those ones you're on about the first time you brought them up on YT and always have a couple of them nearby. The downward angle on the pivot thing doesn't go far enough for me, but they still work really well, even after all this time. So, cheers for the tips. Give the MH10 a go if you want something you have to wear all day for working all day on those DB's Have fun 🙂🙂
Bought this light after seeing your video. Did the same mod and I am very happy with the result as well. The only thing I would change about this light is the fact that it doesn't tilt downwards very far. The fully-up angle is basically useless since it points skywards. Would be easy to 3D print a better plastic hinge for this. Good shout Clive.
If you do 3D print a better hinge I'd love one! It's the only problem with it. The main beam misses your hands when working with it, even on maximum deflection down! How'd your mod go? Did you break the resistor with side cutters or de-solder one of them? I'm about to try this on mine... Any tips?
@@Aengus42 I decided against 3D printing, the details would be too small and fiddly to replicate and would be fragile. So instead I simply took a small piece of neoprene and shaped it into a thin wedge and then glued it to the plastic surface where your forehead goes, under the elastic strap. Thick part at the top causes the whole light to tilt down just enough to make it comfortable on the lowest click of the ratchet. Actually works perfectly now (battery lasts ages on middle and low brightness) and didn't cost a penny to fix :) Regarding the resistor, yeah I just desoldered one of them, I didn't cut it with side cutters because we are not at home to barbarians :) hehe. Good luck with your unit.
I found one on Ebay but the price was way too much unfortunately. Over seventy dollary doos with postage/shipping to Australia. Guess I'll have to keep making do with cheap stuff with seizure inducing strobe functions and no IR switching.
This Product is Now out of Stock. (varies by outlet) Should do a "Big Clive's Small Top Tech" stocking fillers and get sponsored. (as one of those wierdos that can be seen hunched over various grass land looking for worms,(a fisherman) i appreciate a good head torch when searching for behemoth Lob worms)
Opened it..press button,, Jesus! .like striking a welding rod,.,cut resistor out..still very bright !..not like the old everyready torch.!! Tempted to change resistor value.
I not only agree with the "SOS Mode" being useless, I'd also go a step further and add that it's also a hazard in its own right, when used by the local Suicyclists to blind pedestrians and oncoming motorists whilst they whizz around on the pavements! "Now you see me, now you don't", as called by one of my colleagues.
Is the one resistor rated for the new power (0.6W now vs. 0.3W previously)? I suspect you have added a thermal failure point with your improvement. The better option would have been to replace them both with 2.4 Ohm resistors.
I like the way new headlamps are so much more powerful, but the pulsating light is annoying if you ever use it for fill during video recording. Presumably there is a tradeoff of noncontinuous light vs battery life.
I am a milkman and one of these would be useful as I deliver during darkness, on the IR function does it switch on to the same intensity each time or does it have to cycle through?
so, Big Clive, in a week or so when we've all received our Core headlamps from various online pond shops, could you do a tutorial on how to delete the extra resistor? You could do a 'solder along' kike a Bob Ross video. My iron is hot and tinned, my braid extruded and my sucker puckered.
If we have blackouts we will all need alternative ways to supply light etc....i think it would be a fantastic idea and very helpful if you could do a video or two with any tips or ideas you have.....maybe get viewers to chip in with their own ideas and tips just in case the worst happens.....i would rather be prepared in case something happened than not be....im sure we all would.....blackbeltbarrister has done a couple of videos explaining the situation that the government and news etc are keeping quiet....many thanks and stay safe.....dave 😊
Big no-no for me is the fact that when you switch this light on, it starts at the highest brightness. That is so annoying. That is why I much prefer Pezl head torches, which do exactly the opposite. So when you switch them on in the night it doesn't immediately burn your eyeballs.
I hate those multi-function switches. I've never used the "SOS" or even 1/2 power, but I can see the use of the 1/2 power feature. They should make a tiny jumper where you can change the settings so that it's just a simple on/off switch.
I'm in need of New batteries for my candle The bulb shorted the flame , which in turn drained the batteries Well at least it wasn't methalated spirits driven , drunken ghosts would have caused oscillations in the light direction output Calling Ghost Busters wouldn't have helped , slimers slime , the gate keeper , oh they're just all living in the eighties Time to upgrade Hmmm burning witches at the stake isn't fashionable either , I just have to go modern and get either something like a head lamp with and extension cord or a cellular phone device , maybe a Bic lighter Here's hoping I find a solution
For the same average power, a rapidly pulsed LED will appear brighter than a continuously powered one because our eyes are sensitive to the peak intensity of light, not the average intensity.
i love your videos !! I would love to see a tear up of one of those Battery free scale, hand cranked, to see the schematics ! I send you one if you want ! I would like to see if it's possible to use the same system for other devices, like a remote control for example...
All I want is a simple one function head lamp. I dont want dual brightness. I dont want flashing. I dont want anything other than an on off switch at full power.
SOS mode useless Even worse as they put spaces between the letters, as correctly SOS isn’t three letters but a prosign, so SOS could also be written iatnee.
ha hah got one Clive done the hack also easy to do many many thanks Clive it now 02 :12 am can't sleep am a night owl took me about under five minuets works a treat thake care keep them flowing 💥👍
wait that's not the core the core was a movie where they went to the planets core and set off some nukes to restart the planets magnetic field back up and running to save us all🤣
