My neighbor put a multi attachment pole saw/hedger on the curb. I picked it up to fix in the spring. A week later he passed away. I replaced the carb, fuel lines and oil now it runs well. I offered to give it back it to his widow and she declined. I picked up a compatible attachment trimmer for $40, now I have 2 engines that will run a trimmer, pole saw and hedger. Not bad for the price
Have a lawnmower with the original Briggs engine more than 20 years old. Most of those years has been stored during winter out of the elements with a full to the brim tank of high quality pure gasoline with stabiliser added. Starts first or second pull every spring. Do your maintenance, & always add stabiliser to your fuel & mixes. Year round.
Thankful I found your video. My FS 90 trimmer also does not want to stay running. I have watched multiple videos on two screens that I want to be sure to check out: 1) inlet screen that can be removed to clean and 2) spark arrestor. I just could not find the location of the spark arrestor until your video with an almost identical Stihl base. I plan to take my FS 90 apart and clean it once I buy a few parts (at the least…grease, bulb, filter, spark plug, and gasket). Cannot remember if I have ever replaced the spark plug in the 8+ years I’ve owned this machine. I learned a lot today and now know I have some overdue maintenance to do.
Heck yeah! Another stihl 4-mix. And it doesn’t matter how expensive a machine is. You leave fuel in it the carb is gonna gum up. Personally it’s definitely user error. (That thing was in great shape wow)
Where we are, there are only 2 seasons. Summer, summer, summer, and maby fall. Try to guess where. You got it Florida. Around here, im always using my stihl year round. I never have to really worry about letting fuel sit in the machine.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE Indeed it is 😂 I still try to take as good of care as I can of my equipment. I always look to the valve lashes and other maintenance.
For my two cycle equipment I switched to TrueFuel about 10 years ago, have never had a problem since. I’ll leave it in my string trimmer all winter long and it starts on 1-2 pulls in the spring. I’m just a homeowner and use about maybe 5 cans a year so to me it makes financial sense.
Whenever I remove a spark arrester, I have this crazy habit of forgetting to put them back in. My mom has a Husqvarna blower. She owned one that started being down on power and not running well. She took it to a local mechanic who said the engine was going out, so she bought a new one. Two years later, this one started doing the same thing. We eventually determined that the spark arrester was the issue. They were on back order, so I took it off and cleaned it. About two months later, it was doing the same thing. I cleaned it again. When the same issue started happening again a couple of months later, I did a spark arrester delete. It never happened again.
The only thing I leave fuel in when it sits is my snowblower. My mom bought it new and never did any maintenence until it had some issues starting 4 or 5 years ago. I went over the thing and did a few maintenence things and its started and run perfectly in the cold ever since, and thats after leaving gas in it every summer.
Mine is brand new. When I throttle up the saw works as it should. When I raise it to the limb, the chain stops moving when it comes in contact with the limb even while giving it gas. Please advise
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE Might've been synthetic but it slobbers a lot or did with mine. Last couple o0f mpowi8ngs have been 77% battery left. Still dodging bees.,
Fuel doesn't care if it's in the tank of a Craftsman, Homelite or Stihl. Fuel goes bad in the same amount of time, regardless of what it's in. When I was younger, I adjusted carbs many times when the problem was elsewhere. Now, carb adjustments are my last resort. I live in the south, and there's not much of an off-season here. So there's not really any long-term storage issues here. Except, maybe for pressure washers. Those don't get used regularly. I have unintendedly left fuel in a pressure washer for too long.
No I drain fuel in system and carb bowl, haven’t had problems since. I also don’t keep fuel over five months. I drain from all my equipment and use in my vehicle. Then replace it all. I have several outboards and miscellaneous equipment and I’ll start it all every 30 days if I use it or not during spring, summer, and fall 👍
I do leave fuel in the tank over long storage. Normally always works fine afterwards. Only one time where it hasn’t started after long storage with fuel left in the tank and clogged up the fuel jet which I had to fix over this weekend
Hello i have picked up a string trimmer and i have checked for the following, Could i please have help and guidance for getting it running again. before i got it, i check for spark, and then i put fuel in the throat of the carb 2-3 pulls it fired right up and ran for 45ish seconds here is the list of what it has. *spark at the plug *Compression Very good * it has an original carb walbro with one adjusting screw * No spark protection screen When i first picked it up i immediately noticed it had no primer bulb, I did replace this but the suction felt very very weak especially compared to my 49cc motor carb. I decided to man up and rebuild the carb rubbers and diaphragm's with some parts of the 49cc one and surprisingly the parts worked diaphragm wise. I noticed that the old diaphragm's were old and not very rubbery and the ones, on the higher of the 2 diaphragm's were fused together and could not be split. Anyway i rebuild the carb no compatibility issues i place the carb on the motor hook up all of the fuel lines ect and pull and pull no luck, no luck, the vacuum on the carb was still terrible and now it was leaking, I rebuilt the 49cc carb and put the old parts back in the trimmer one(25CC). This is where i am writing for guidance, Please help i feel i have to buy a new carbie. Note i did try the 49cc carbie but still no luck Link of the trimmer not mine, but mine is exactly the same: auctionet.com/en/1454174-grastrimmer-bensindriven-efco-8200/images#image_1 Please help
sure thing, if you work on something like the carb and afterwards it's still not working, then replace it. otherwise you're going to struggle with it until you've spent too much time on it, instead of using it.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE Thanks, That is exactly what I have done i ordered a new carb kit with gaskets and fuel hoses ect, I noticed one of your earlier videos you said that sometimes the diaphragms need to be worn in if they have sat for a while I feel this is the case with mine because I was screwing around with it and poured a little fuel in the carb, it started right up and let it sit idle and it stayed idling for a while no issues, so i gave it a rev and caused bogging from to lean of a mixture, so I backed the mixture adjustment out about 2 turns and it ran significantly better. It does not have a primer bulb. I removed it and put it back on the 49cc carb(Glad that one still works). But on the trimmer when i pull on the rope with full throttle the fuel sinks back into the tank with air bubbles throughout it? and it only starts cold when fuel is in the throat of the carb, and it can only start warm after sitting for 3 seconds otherwise I have to start it how it starts cold i feel there is a vacuum leak as no air should be getting in? and there are no obvious leaks thanks for getting back to me so fast.👍
I ended up getting the carb replacing all the fuel line, and it would not start unless i fed fuel into the throat of the carb although it would start much better when mod-warm, I feel as it is a compression issue and I am not willing to spend the money on something worth so little, Its not a nuisance when warm now and only needs a squirt of fuel in the carb when cold I feel i can live with that, Plus I already have a backup. If it was a compression issue would the rings be the only things required to change?
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE Hi, It has been a few days and i have kept persisting on getting it running, I tuned the carb and it runs heaps better although I was playing around with it and decided to instead of put fuel in the carb, keep pulling about 30 pulls later it kicked for half a second then i left the choke engaged and it started to run. I moved the choke to the run position and it was running without fuel poured in the carb. What could cause this pain when starting, As i replaced the air filter, fuel lines, filter, and carb. The odd thing is it starts great warm. One last thing i did notice the choke is bent out not causing a great seal could that be an issue as well?
I have to admit that I do leave fuel in some of my gas powered equipment over winter, gas generator with steel tank being one. I make sure to use treated gas for no more than a year and try to start it once or twice during this time. Not a good idea to leave gas in small two stroke equipment though… and I’ve never had good luck with canned fuel as far as engine performance, always needed to tweak with carb to make it work so my mixture of MMO, Sea Foam and Stabil proved to be working great for long term storage
@@Delerium22It last a couple years. We gave a can away with two cycle equipment to home consumers . Ssved rotten carbs and lines. It is VP race fuel with oil . Good stuff if you don't go through lots of fuel . Oh and the engines run fine . The not running right comes another U tuber spreading misinformation.
@@Delerium22typically 3years, some manufacturers claim 5years, I would say no more than 2years after opening. My Stihl chainsaw wouldn’t stay running with it and string trimmer needed carb adjustment also.
I have a hyper tough weed eater having issues running when running pressing throttle it starts to bog down in the we need her head completely stop spinning and sometimes engine cuts off but if I take the weed eater attachment off the motor runs just fine
when the attachments are off, there's no load, so it makes sense. I would try turning the L screw counter clockwise a quarter turn and see what happens
I don’t even mess with these carburetors for two cycle engines. They’re a pain in the ass. There’s too many small parts to lose,too many diaphragms to rip. I just buy a cheap carb for 10 bucks and call it a day.
well for me it all depends really but yeah if i leave fuel in my engine stash i always use a nice fuel stabilizer in there and well hardly any problems in the long run too etc.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE for sure and i always avoid E10 (Ethanol Fuel) at 10% (Percent) at the pumps and 91 Octane and it works out better for my engines in the long run too etc.
Hey bro what's up? I was interested in purchasing this same model polesaw but is very expensive here in the Caribbean. The last time I priced it out it was almost $10,000.
Your videos are short and always on point. Gasoline for most part is culprit in hard starting if there’s a fuel shut off valve I shut the valve and let it run empty if not I try to complete my work with the lowest amount of fuel and either run it dry or pump it out that is my normal usage. Long term I always empty fuel tank. Question what do think was the main issue the carb or valves ?
Well since the metering diaphragm was stiff, it wouldn’t allow fuel to pass through the carb, so my bet is the carb and the valves were maybe a small part of it
