Fixing a Walbro WG8 carburettor on a Polini 80cc Paramotor 

Thanks to Andy and rab ,my machine now starts so easy. I will have to learn and clean the scary carburettor ,Many thanks for the assist

loved the info, my carb does the same thing, will use your experience; Thank You

Great content Andy. I'm currently rebuilding my carb the wb32. The last flight at the bore mine run like dog shit causing me to burn 4 litres in 20 mins on my evo 100. I did not know the the metering lever can be out too. I will check that on mine. However I cant find any information from vittorazi regarding the pop off pressure for my engine. But hey ho. Again thanks for sharing. It's always helpful 👍🏻

Nice work! you were telling me about it the other day. I guess its important to keep everything dust and debris free

Hi great vidoe. I have a Miniplane too 80 and the carb walbro wg8 throttle lever does not do al the way back to idle. It stops short about 1/8 inch away from the cone. Do you do minor repairs. Based south coast of UK Cheers mick

Hi, it was mentioned, that the temperature should be at 175. Mine is running at full throttle (for several minutes) not more than 165. It means it is still to richt?! Motor is Polini Thor 190Evo. Consumption is about 7h/hour!

Andy, Clearly a good result. I've yet to take my carb apart. I flew the other day for almost an hour without any issue's but I reckon there could be some much in the carb. Carbs are seen as a dark area by many because they aren't fully understood by many (me included to some degree) but this video goes some way towards demystifying that dark area. I believe the rebuild was more successful because of the sonic bath cleaner and attention to cleanliness . Top marks. Sandy

I dont even need to use the Winter Jet kit here in freezing temps as long as the meter lever is set slightly rich the engine runs great!!!!

there is no way in hell that I would fly in anything with a Walbro carburetor, even if it is in a box in the cargo hold.

My first time rebuilding a carb I did not use that gap tool and it caused me all sorts of grief. Keep making these tutorials and keep us content creators in the sky!

Hi.Do you sell the metering tool for setting the correct settings on the WG 8 carburettors.Thanks Pat

Fabulous outcome to a most annoying problem..well done Andy!! I think you should do a few carbs from the moster 185 ..yours seems to be the most comprehensive cleaning process..👍

The meter lever height is so important in the wg8 carbs!! Thanks for video,subbed!!

How many turns should the short needle screw in to the carburator? The needle with the cone

Hi Bexxy @ Andy, love your video buddy! Very informative. I will possibly purchase my first Paramotor after this pandemic is over. The Polini Thor 130 engine (second hand) which has the WB-8 carburettor as well. The first owner brought this from the USA about 4-5 years ago. He says he flew a combine of 3-4 hrs only so far. Would you suggest to fully service the whole engine or perhaps just clean off any carbon build up along with cleaning and changing the parts for the WB-8 as you did here? Any advice is most appreciated buddy! Thanks again

Bexxy ,Rab ,many thanks for the help ,I haven't had Any problems with the carb ,also copied the cleaning method and still no problems . Hope to see you all soon Many thanks

Nice video Andy. It just shows how the fine details pays off in the long run.

Great of you to help Phil out Andy. See you in the air Phil.

Thanks!!

How much does the lever height differ between the button type diaphragm and the genuine tang type one ?

Hello again. I can see this carb is the new one for the new atom80 engines. I have an earlier version of this engine and the carb doen't have the preassure hose that goes to the crank of the engine. Do you know anything about the older version carb upgrade? Thanks

Andy, thank you for the video! I have a WB-37 carb, which I understand is very similar to the WG-8. I'm experiencing a bit of bog/fade at higher RPMs - so I have a question about the metering lever - and in particular - about how it interacts with the needle. As you know, there is a groove cut around the top of the needle that the metering lever 'fork' slides around, by which it lifts the needle. This groove is quite a bit thicker than the metal thickness of the lever, so when the lever is pressed down, there is a fair amount of 'play' before the lever fork actually makes contact with the the needle, finally lifting it out of its seat. In my case, the lever could be depressed about 2mm before the fork made contact with the top edge of the needle groove and lifted it. I had used the Walbro gauge to set the lever height (I have the metering diaphragm that has the longer tang - not the button). I noticed that the metal disc on the opposite side of the diaphragm bottoms out against the internals of the carb before it is able to really move that lever down enough to lift the needle; It's enough to unseat it, but just barely (mine is set to pop-off at about 16psi). So, here's my question :) I'm wondering if that needle isn't being lifted enough to allow the carb to deliver the right amount of fuel at high rpms? Should I bend the fork at the needle so that it is making contact with the top of the needle groove, so that the diaphragm doesn't have to travel so far down before it lifts it? I would think this would allow the needle to be lifted higher, allowing more fuel flow. The fact that it is unseating just barely, would explain why the engine can run up to speed for a moment, but then fade... Then speed up again... then fade - which is my situation. Sorry for the tremendously long comment - but it's a very tricky issue to describe - and I haven't seen any videos online talk about this. Thanks!

Do you sell metering level bits

Hi. I have a Atom80new from this year. April, and I want to clean and rebuild the WG-8. I habe a doubt, Im not sure at what height I should leave the ML. 1.7 or 0.5/0.8 Could I buy you the 3D printed gauge? Or where can I buy it? Thanks 🙏

interesting about the new diaphragm design. I had a nirvana and Nirvana file off the T bit. I thought it was a bit silly since why change the design. But hay Walbro have done the same. Any way it seemed to work OK with out mod.