I know exactly what the problem is. If you take the boots off the rack and pinion, you will find one side has an extra plastic spacer/stopper. you need to cut one of them off. I was dumb enough to buy one of these. Lol.
This is how to fix the steering, remove both tie rods put the steering in the middle and adjust the tie rods to fit back in with the wheels straight. Tons of RU-vid videos on how to fix this Jeep
I believe the reason it turns to the right better is because you're sitting over the left tire. It gives the left side more traction. As a kid I had a Powerwheels Jeep and noticed the same issue.
More weight on the left would make it turn to the left if the suspension was set perfectly straight. The tie rods are not set correctly. It's just a gokart with a fiberglass body.
@@napsolo3453 yeah that explains why he was tightening the ball joint to infinite foot pounds of torque lol that's why he is not a diesel mechanic anymore. He was fire for breaking stuff lol not true but wouldn't surprise me lol and I am not bashing him. He knows his way around a vehicle, but the dude needs to know certain things are not ment to be tightened that much
I like the old Gator Grip. They’re sold under a different name now I think. I have an original one tho. They fit any nut ranging from a 6mm- 18mm and anything in between. No stripping because of the design.
You would put a 13 mm on one side an a 14 mm on the other side because a lot of people have one set of tools at home. It looks like that Jeep is mostly scrap so i'm impresed they at least thougt of that haha!
I think the 13mm on one side and 14mm on another is so if you only have one wrench of each size that you don't get stuck in a situation of not being able to tighten it. That way you can grab both wrenches from your box and actually accomplish something, rather than be short a wrench if you don't have extras.
Tyler use two tape measures and adjust the tierods so they have the same number on both tapes. In front of tire and rear of tire plus use a 6 foot level or a drywall square from front tires to rear tires to square all four tires up and it will be 100% aligned!
Use a degree finder at the steering wheel to find center. Full Left and right you might half to do a little math to find true center. Once you figure out center of the rack do your left tie rod first then your right then put the steering wheel on straight. Some of the Chinese racks do have too many spacers on one side. Some of them have a center mark on the back if the rack from the shaft to the housing. Some times there just plane defected with a short adjustment from one side to another right at the tie rod because the threaded part is too short. I had a go cart do the same thing. Bought two defective racks and had to use something to find the degree left and right it wasn’t perfect but it worked better then guessing.
My folks have a coleman 550 from TSC, it's a great machine if you understand you're buying a side by side that was assembled the same way as a bicycle at Walmart. If you have basic mechanical skills and understand most of these chinesium knocks can be crossed referanced to "real" parts they are great machines for the money
I think the reason the bolt was a 14m and the nut is a 13m is incase you are working with one set of wrenches your not gonna have two 14s...though I don't know a single person who works on cars and what not that only owns one set of wrenches or sockets 😂😂
@@bairfamilyfarm1336 exactly!!! Multiples of everything but 10's🤣🤣 if you ask the pain in the ass engineers im sure there answer would be if you only had one set on hand 🤣
I have only one set of everything, because I don't have a garage, live in a shared flat and keep my tools and parts to work on my car in the car... Makes sense, no?
@@oilybrakes But I would assume you have a set of wrenches and a set of sockets so that means you would have two 14's or 13's and would be able to successfully tighten the bolt. I originally said if you only had ONE set of WRENCHES OR SOCKETS on hand....Makes sense, no?
I almost spit out my coffee seeing how the brake caliper hit the shocks! That is no bueno good sir, not one bit! That will make the caliper "reset" each time they hit (the cylinder will compress during long turns making so you will have to pump the brake to get back too "both pads touching" which is super duper dangerous!) So what i would do is adjust the top and bottom ball joint "main bolts" (the parts that are connected to the chassis, not the wheel assembly) so that the whole wheel assembly gets further out, adjust the steering rack pins so that the brake caliper does not interfere with the shocks, shim up the "driver POW right side" top ball joint arm so it does not rock back and forth (your atempt to tighten the balljoint was futile seeing it SHOULD be free moving but the top linkage arm is meant to hold the assembly from backwards/forwards movement, hence why they almost always are A shaped) TL;DR this is like buying a second hand LEGO set that the guy before you where drunk while assembling, all the pieces are there.. but not correctly put together
Could it be the knuckle assemblies are on the wrong sides? Because the design of all other wheeled vehicles have the calipers on the trailing side instead of the leading side. In other words, the calipers on the front wheels should be at the back of the assembly and the calipers on the rear wheels are towards the front. The locations are engineered to increase brake efficiency. If the brake calipers on the front are facing forward the torque of the braking causes "lift" on the front tire contact area, decreasing the friction needed to stop. The front wheel calipers facing the rear of the car causes "dive" under braking., increasing the friction. The rear wheel calipers facing the front also causes "dive". The differences are because of the relationship of the weight of the car in respect to the caliper location. In other words the front calipers have all the weight behind them. The rear calipers have all the weight in front of them. Also the momentum and direction with the kinetic energy respective to vehicle weight is a factor.
I couldn't help but notice below the banjo bolt on the brake caliper, It looked like there may have been an adjustable bump stop on the control arm/knuckle? Gotta love buying new sh¡t and having to work on it before using it.
It looks like to me the problem is play in the steering box itself when u had it turned all the way to the right drop the tie rod off the hub and pull it in and out just to see if there is play ,check both sides while ur at it, nice video bud 👍
Has anyone seen c90adventures video literally driving like to Moab on this mini Jeep? It’s a good couple videos for sure, if you haven’t, I recommend you do. It’s deff worth the watch.
You have a good base model to work with, now its time for upgrades and modifications to make it what you want, there are so many ways to improve this jeep, I know if I owned one the first thing my mind would do is start to figure out ways to improve things on it and what kind of upgrades I would do to suit the environment of where I will like to take it. I love to do mods and change things to make things work better or more to my liking. Enjoy your jeep, and make it Yours.
I would say try shifting you weight to the other side when turning and see if that makes a difference , also on some old go carts only one rear wheel pulls so it turns better in one direction better than the other
Dude I need to reset your rack loosen up the steering column pulled apart count you turn tool off to turn to the right set it to the center and there you go if far as goes at play you got to tighten everything up
Could it be the knuckle assemblies are on the wrong sides? Because the design of all other wheeled vehicles have the calipers on the trailing side instead of the leading side. In other words, the calipers on the front wheels should be at the back of the assembly and the calipers on the rear wheels are towards the front. The locations are engineered to increase brake efficiency. If the brake calipers on the front are facing forward the torque of the braking causes "lift" on the front tire contact area, decreasing the friction needed to stop. The front wheel calipers facing the rear of the car causes "dive" under braking., increasing the friction. The rear wheel calipers facing the front also causes "dive". The differences are because of the relationship of the weight of the car in respect to the caliper location. In other words the front calipers have all the weight behind them. The rear calipers have all the weight in front of them. Also the momentum and direction with the kinetic energy respective to vehicle weight is a factor.
Tyler. . . I CAN see the issue all the way from here😂😂 Adjust both upper and lower ball joints on the left-hand side(standing in front of the jeep) because the left is a lot closer than the right. So if you adjust it where the knuckle is further away from the shocks, then your turning will be sorted too as it won't bump into the shock so quickly
Tyler also swap your front brake calipers and the stoppers will be upside down and they wont hit the bolts will still line up and you cab still bleed them out with the brake lines
the issue you have is that it is a fixed drive to the rear axle, so no diff this make the jeep wants to push forward like some quad bike so for you to turn one rear wheel needs to slip in order for you to turn, as you are sitting on the left side it then make it difficult to turn left. if you were to sit in the center i think it would turn both ways the same .hope this helps
Seems like lots of things are made to turn better to one side. I can think of like riding mowers with a steering wheel, go carts, and apparently whatever that thing you bought. Could be because they want you to turn that way for either mowing or circle track but that's a guess.
you should just pull the front end and put one that's a little bigger and you can adjust better. and make it a bigger wheelbase it would be a little safer as well. also you should just rebuild it and show us what it can be.
The reason they use different sizes for the nut and bolt is so you do not have to have two sets of tools to complete the job. A lot of import cars are like that.
Those front shocks are adjustable btw. Turn that silver sleeve near the bottom and it will adjust preload. In other words softer or stiffer suspension.
That thing looks cool but mechanically looks like a accident waiting to happen with out fixing. The play on the hub is because that upper "A-arm" is not even a A-arm but just a rod and offers no side to side support. The balljoint on the bottom should be on on top of the hole like the upper arm/ball joint is. That way its near impossible for it to pop out since the weight is pushed into it instead of pulled. With enough force even not worn out it can pop out and run over its own wheel. Steering max angle can maybe be fixed by moving the hub closer or further to clear or create more space for the brake caliper and the horribly placed shock. And probably center the steeringbox so left and right are the same by adjusting the steering tie rods.
I have one of these jeeps. Mine is the ice bear one. I live in the mountains where you can ride dirtbikes and quads on the street. I rode mine on dirtbike trails. I use it to pull a little trailer and haul firewood around my property. I use it to pull my log splitter. It seats 2 adults. The steering wheel and shifter are short so kids can drive it too. Duh. I put LED headlights, air horn, and ammo can tool box on mine. When I drive it to the gas station or grocery store people gather around to tell me it’s cool and ask questions about it. Definitely a chick magnet. I traded a Honda XR100 for it on Facebook market. Best trade I ever made.
Was the battery in there originally also an agm battery? If so, using a standard charger will cause the battery damage and could explode like that or worse
@@halidron2 it’s happened at the diesel shop. Pulling them out of a semi to try reconditioning and hooking up to just our regular charger ended up frying them. AGM’s prefer the low amperage side charging and with that little battery even trickle charge could be too much amperage if not designed to be charged on it. Just saying from experiences
it doesnt have nearly enough ackerman in the steering for a vehicle like that "ie the inside tire of a turn should turn further than the outside tire" you should look up ackerman and figure out how to add it into your steering ... ackerman steering is how uk taxis work so well in the city ... and it will tighten the turning radius greatly
Just FYI and this is not gospel but charge your battery to 12v before the trickle charger. I made the same mistake and Almost burned my garage down. There is a burn mark that reminds me every time I walk in the garage. I did not read my chargers warning and yeah…. Great video!
Most metric bolts and screws have a bigger nut than the head of the screw. Probably because some people dont wanna buy a full set. So they just buy the wrenches from sizes 4 to 32mm. And about the steering, the inside wheel will always turn more sharp than the outside. If you steer left and right while only looking at the drivers wheel, ofcourse its gonna look off. In my opinion the steering angle doesn't look that bad. Maybe 3-5° of.
I mean the front of it is all smashed up lol I can’t help but think that thing is twisted or parts of the steering are Atleast. Even if it’s not super obvious
Saw 2 today and they halted selling them for now due to some battery issues and some other problems that cropped up on them. At my local Tractor Supply.
5:58 they are two different size hex head on one fastener, designed with in mind that the consumers that buy this are not going to be very mechanically inclined. The average joe may only have one set of wrenches and nothing else. Them being two different sizes allows you to work on it if you only have one set of wrenches 😂