For some reason the owner of the company I work for thinks I know what I'm doing. (???) He asked me to do some drywall repairs in his home while they were vacationing. I got a text from his wife yesterday thanking me for the great work done in their house. I was a good carpenter but I owe 90% of my drywall skills to you Ben. I'm dead serious the content you put out really helps guys like me out. THANKS man, take care. 👍👍
Ditto. I just replaced a sliding patio door that due to some modifications in fit left damaged drywall. I didn’t hesitate to tell the contractor that I would do the interior finish work. I applied what I learned from Vancouver Carpenter and my drywall work was excellent - very slow, but excellent results. Thanks Ben
I am a first-time homeowner on a DIY budget. I’ve been avoiding a messy bathroom wall repair for over a year now because it felt too far above my skill level. I am learning so much from your videos that I finally feel confident enough to start working on it. Bought my materials and made a plan of action, so here goes! Thank you for sharing these tutorials!
@@kennya5165I need advice. I am looking to install blinds but the window frame depth is small. I will have to do outside mounts. Should I install on the window frame / architrave or above the entire window and frame. I do not want to mess up the frame with holes or dry wall with holes especially after a few years they start to get loose.
I loved the fact that you went straight to the point and not asking people to leave a like a subscribe at the beginning of the video like a lot of RU-vid channels. Thank you for that.
I just wanted to thank you for all your advice out here! You’ve helped me feel confident enough to tackle some repair jobs I never thought I could handle on my own. You’ve saved me a lot of money and anxiety! Thank you, than you, thank you!
I am working on the corner walls in our small bathroom. We have bentonite in our soil here, spent $$$$$ on getting the foundation fixed years ago. I did little/incorrect fixes back then (paintable caulk). You make it look so easy but this girl is learning so much from you! Thank you!
I'm very new to this, I worked for a guy doing drywall back in 2016 for a good solid 2 months and he was patient with me and taught me from the ground up. But I needed some extra cash recently and took on a small drywall repair job and I'm finding out that I have to just wing everything. I had to fix some drywall anchor holes in the bathroom, I originally tried scraping it like you but some of that drywall paper was fuzzing up and it was driving me crazy, so, I grabbed my belt sander and it worked so good, so fast, highly recommend it. Thanks for your videos, also. It really helps when I don't know something, or even when I think I know something!
For a someone who is absolutely clueless about joint compound and adding water, who also has only a few holes to cover up; this is perfect for me. Thank you!!
I mainly do electrical work for a contractor and create an extreme amount of holes everywhere I go. I didn’t care much because drywall and mud guys fix everything. But then I started getting independent work and it was real costly to hire guys to patch all the holes I make. Your videos helped me a lot, it gave me confidence and with your tips and many hours of practice I now do my own drywall repair and taping in my side jobs. Recently I’ve expanded and started doing other types of work. I just finished a basement and the only thing I sub contracted out was the plumbing.
I can't find your video I watched before I began, so I thought I'd comment here. I repaired a section where a towel rack had been hung at least three times. There were anchor holes everywhere. I cut out 3" diameter circles in the drywall to make sure I'd get all the little holes and installed plywood backup pieces. Then I inserted 3" drywall circles and then mudded everything. I was worried after the first mud coat because I could see the outline of the patch, but by the third sanded coat it looked like a pro had done it. I ain't no pro! I'm a novice. Your videos are super! Thanks for the tips and lessons!
I just patched a hole in a wall using your California patch. It came out awesome. I used it about a year ago on an old phone outlet too. Love all your videos so much because you know your stuff. "The Cajun Ninja's Dad"
Just after putting a couple of big drill holes in the wall for large handbag hooks to go in, my daughter changed her mind….aggh! So I hopped on RU-vid to find a how-to video to repair & your video popped up with the perfect solution so thank you. I also love that I’m a Vancouver Canuck living in Sydney Australia, watching a Vancouver carpenter show me my solution. Amazing!
Got a notification of this yesterday. As your dedicated subscriber went to watch it and it wouldn't open. Glad to watch it now. You are the best. Thank you always for the wealth of knowledge and warm personality.
Over the years of doing renovations, I found that a short piece of 3/8” dowel with the end rounded over into almost a half-dome is my little helper for this sort of thing. I scrape off the loose bits as shown here, then tap the rounded end of the dowel into each hole to create a good deep dimple. Then follow the rest of the steps as shown. This way I know the loose torn bits are nowhere near the surface and can’t mess up the skim coat.
I had to do a double take when this video started because I've been watching your skating videos for a while and didn't know that you had other channels LOL. Thank you for your help with skateboarding and carpentry, my friend.
I like your technique to counter sink the edges a little. I’ve always used an old Robertson screwdriver that I hit on the tip. The butt of the handle is rounded so it makes an indentation roughly the size of a dime. If the holes are bigger, especially when screw in wall anchors are removed, I back fill the the holes with wadded up paper towel. FWIW
THE DISAPPOINTMENT! of not seeing it painted :) Love your channel and you are the best drywall channel on RU-vid. Thanks for the time and effort you put into these videos.
But using the same paint saved for a year on patches ends up (most often) with a patch a bit different in color. The whole wall usually needs to be painted. Just corner to corner, not the whole room. Even if you go to the same store and buy the same paint by the numbers, it will usually be a bit off, and you'll need to paint corner to corner.
I started using Bondo to fill the big holes. I don't make it flush. I just want the Bondo to act as a backstop for the holes. When it dries, I then go over the holes again with spackle, smothing everything flush. When it dries I sand everything a little and then paint primer over everything before painting with the wall color. What I like about the Bondo is that it dries rock hard and will not move. When I would just fill the holes with mud, you could push the repair in with your finger and it would go right through.
It's great when you know how to do something...but you find a RU-vid video to help with little touches to make it look even better. Great video... Thanks 👍
I like to take a sharp razor knife and carefully go around each hole first, only cutting on the in-stroke, so no paper sticks up at all. Then I mud it.
If you doing it building up above the surface like that to sand later, be sure to use regular mud since it is soft and easy to sand. If you use hot mud, sanding will be far more difficult.
I use 5 minute hot mud. wait about thirty minutes lightly sand. I know the middle still will look wet but you can feather the edge with a sponge and paint it. no need to do any priming hot mud. little spot like this you can feather the edge paint then go take a candy bar break or cheese burger break.
Excellent demonstration. I have to do that occasionallly, but i just run in a drywall anchor a little deep and throw a single thin layer of mud on top[ of that.
This is pretty much what I have done in the past. As many others have noted the key to a small job like this is wearing the right socks. I have a pair like yours and find they are THE BEST for those smal taping jobs. Thanks for showing me that I have the right style for those small jobs.
On small projects like this you can use a damp spongue (a kitchen spongue is perfect) to smooth out the mud instead of sandpaper. There's less clean up because it doesn't leave any sanding dust on the wall, baseboard or floor.
Personally, I'm definitely a big fan of: bevel; 5-min hot mud; wet sand (if necessary); texture if necessary; prime/paint, all using a heat gun to speed things up . I do handyman work and usually can't justify the time to come back out to do multiple coats on repairs this small
I take a utility knife and cut a slight bevel and remove all the loose paper and fuzz around the holes. Especially with screw in anchors, the drywall will be raised around the circumference. Even drilling holes can cause those ridges. If they are not removed this will come back and be a problem when finish sanding and you'll end up with little circles or you have to use much more compound over a larger area to hide them. Also, using a fan greatly speeds up the drying process if you are in a hurry
I just use plaster to fix holes like that, just make sure to trowel it smooth and even with the surface around it because there ain't no sanding that stuff, the reason I like it so much is because it doesn't shrink and there's hardly any follow up work, just a thin coat of spackling afterwards and a quick couple of strokes with a sanding block and it's ready to paint.
Many of us doing drywall out of necessity are working with finished construction and finished walls. One of the biggest difficulties is getting it to look right because of texturing prior to painting. If you included this it would go a long way in helping us correct damage and do complete repairs. Thanks for the great videos too.
i’ve only ever seen your skateboarding videos on youtube, i didn’t my even know you had another channel until i accidentally ripped my towel rack out of the wall. Thanks Ben!
For repairs like that I use a small ballpeen hammer and dimple the hole in then I use hot mud and push that in a little with the ballpeen hammer. When that drys I skim it, wait until it drys, sand, prime and paint.
I had some of these to fill today on a job for a customer and I use pre-cut pieces of doweling with different diameters and apply Liquid Nails to the edge of the dowels and gently tap them into the opening. This method might be kind of unconventional, but it does work and then I apply a couple of skim coats over the dowels.
Nice trick. As a painter I usually do the indent first, then the mud. And for your example I wouldn’t add extra mud, I would wait the next day and just do touch ups with Dap pink filler (the small quantity makes it dry faster, then I sand). I’ll try your method next time (indent and mud at same time). Thanks!
You can break the drywall too much and cause loose paper doing it that way causing imperfections in your paint but if it works for you keep on doin ur thing man lol
I use the handle end of a screwdriver as it has a very large radius and is very smooth and I can create a very subtle dimple around the hole. It fills in beautifully.
@@blitz902 Ummm.....The reason taping knives have a metal end on the handle is exactly for this reason.....lightly tap the hole to invert, then Pre-fill, then small piece of embed tape and 2 coats on top......the first coat right away, the second next day
@@PDRCanada ur right but the end of a knife has less surface area to it then a hammer or end of a screw driver which causes less loose paper in that area but as I stated before to each their own if it works for u then do ur thing
I watch frequently and have learned many tricks that have helped me a lot. My comment is that the drywall repairs I have to make are mostly on textured walls not smooth. After the repair texture needs to be reapplied. Spray cans have always left something to be desired for me. any tips on matching existing texture over repairs.
I always bevel it out like a little square cut some mesh tape in little squares. Fill with hot mud put my mesh square in. Seems to work good doesn't sink in.
