Came across this yesterday and it helped save my blue rose STL file since it had a whole bunch of gaps! Thank you for pointing out this tool since I couldn't find any other tutorial that showed it. I was about to edit it in blender but this is SO much easier!
I'm an Architecture student, when I'm making a model to be printed I completely switch programs to fusion 360 or something to avoid janky mesh from something like sketchup does. BUT this isn't something my classmates do when giving me the files to print stuff at 3 days before the passing date.
after 3 months of trying everything and nearly giving up,this works🤗 thank you so much,the offset was the only thing i didnt play with because it usualy crashed before getting to this value
Hi Angus I personally love your videos, I also subscribed. I am a newbie for 3D printing and your the person I always come to. Thanks for making these videos :D
Hey Angus, did you do the video about the long and tedious way of fixing the file? I'm interested and can not find it in your channel! Thanks for the videos, really helpful!
so i just found this video but can't seem to find the video that was referenced that was supposed to come out shortly after. I'd like to see it for the longer method, hmm
@@gothmaniow Nope. I ended up watching a bunch of random videos about meshmixer, specially how to prepare 3d scans for printing, and learned a bit from each video.
Helpful stuff and definitely a time consuming process to learn and do with good results. I like the separate part idea as opposed to all the support printing and thus it would be great if this or any software could easily add "snap together" mechanisms to the end of parts so you could assemble without glue the parts that you deconstruct.
Nice! I just discovered Netfabb cloud solution is no longer free to upload and fix those separate shells and the full version of netfabb is not cheap!. I am also a huge meshmixer fan so thanks for another great video, great timing and as usual explaining what the complex options actually do!
Hi Norma, it still seems to work OK for me? Keeping in mind the new domain is modelrepair.azurewebsites.net , but typing in cloud.netfabb redirects to it. Just tried it then and it didn't try to charge me! I STILL prefer meshmixer though, gives me far more control. Many thanks for the kind words :)
Hi Angus, just got my flexion extruder (with a nice makersmuse discount!) thanks so much for that review, I love it! If you use flexible material you need this!! Thanks again
Thanks, I was struggling with my friend file. When I saw the file was mostly surfaces I was regretting helping him, but this program just save me a lot of time. Thanyou a lot!
It's been many years but RU-vid just saw fit to recommend this to me now, in June 2022 :-) I thought I might point out that STL files can contain multiple independent manifolds, and the slicer will effectively union them as part of the slicing process without needing complex geometry. So, you can probably get away with just moving the different parts to intersect and then exporting it like that. It doesn't need to be a single mesh. :-)
I did the same thing, importing the obj from rendering a pmx but when I go to make solid as you did, it crashes meshmixer every time. how do I fix this?
So where's that other video? I'm very interested in how he created those interlocking parts. I can't find it on the main site. Of course, I don't know what it's called. Does anyone know what it's called?
Hi i convert an mdl file to obj from fsx game (airplane) and import in fusion360 slicer but the model have broken parts and have edges, no smoothness ,how can we repair it?
I was playing with (new) Craftware last night and noticed a "Drop plane" mode ("Align and stick the selected object onto the bed surface or onto the surface of another object") and a "Auto drop" option ("When enabled, manipulated objects will tend to fall down to the bed surface"). At least Drop plane is not new. Can the second task of fixing geometric misalignment be performed with these features?
Hi i have been playing with the Chitubox and exporting models from Sketchup. And on one model i have noticed a few dark triangular surfaces. these do not appear to be holes but i think are reversed faces. My question is will there be a problem when the model prints?
S3D is fairly intuitive, but it's getting the best out of it, like any software, which is the ultimate goal. To that end, it's things like using the advanced processes, profile creation for getting the best out of different types of material, playing with the scripts, those things would be useful. Also getting the most out of the mesh and repair menus, if they are required. Thanks for the reply!
I've several models I'm working to cut up for 3d printing but plane cuts alone aren't cutting it. I was hoping to check it how you did the more advanced method with Miku about I can't seem to find the other video. If it was never released can someone direct me to a place that might be able to help?
Is it possible to preset the "Make Solid" variables. I like the Accurate Type, and about 470 on both Accuracy and Density. And would like to not have to set them every time.
so... did it worked out? I assumed that I have to prepare my own 3D models already made into necessary parts with the keys, in wherever software the model was made in, to avoid something like this, but I didn't know that you can pick so much of individual parts that seemed merged together during 'remeshing' thing early on the video, let alone making keys for each parts after it.
Hey Angus. I'm having a really difficult time with some Arkham Origin models. I have Deathstroke's faceplate, but it came a bit weird. The outside looks normal, but when you flip it around, it has this salmon pink color and doesn't seem to exist at all. I cannot select any of the bits inside the faceplate, and there is no structure to any of it when I try to put it in Simplify3D. From the front, it looks fine but, again, when you turn it to the back, it disappears completely. Clearly something is wrong with the model, but I am not sure if I can fix it via Meshmixer or not. It would print just fine if I made it solid, but that adds a TON of extra material on the back of the head and behind the eye hole and everything. For a better idea of what I mean, this is the picture of that salmon color texture that I do not understand at all: oi67.tinypic.com/25i3exl.jpg If you have any suggestions, let me know! Thank you!
Did you ever make the Miku advanced repair video? Can't find it but need it badly for an SAO model my daughter wants and I've repaired and it's still so FUBAR pieces are floating around and breaking off
If I attempt to use netfabb on a file that looks ok, it doesn't really work. What could be possibly wrong with the file? I downloaded a file from grabcad. Could you do a video on that?
Could you maybe do a tutorial on how to make a hollow object solid in Meshmixer, for example I ripped the Vault-Tec van from Fallout 4 and fixed it with Netfabb, but the inside is hollow, so it's impossible to print.
Hey Angus! Thanks for responding. It's the file in Vehicles>Automotive>VaultTecVan_PreWar_01.nif It has an interior with chairs but ofcourse for 3D printing you just want the inside solid so you can print it properly without having to use useless support inside of the model. As you can see on this link : i.gyazo.com/f042b118d2a69aed3156780ffc30d02d.png . Some parts also don't slice even after making them thicker in Meshmixer. The same goes for the file LoadScreenArt>Armor03PowerArmor5T45.nif, which is also hollow on the inside which makes it impossible to print without useless support. See this image: i.gyazo.com/d8edb0a86c4d21947bfd07cd9e11c94e.png . Thanks in advance! Oh yeah and could you also maybe show us how you made your Mirelurk 3D printable. I tried printing it yesterday but a lot of parts weren't connected.
As someone who models for animation and games, these models physically hurt me... The Topology is absolutely awfull, the plane had like a 100 edge pole!!! I know that 3D printibg has other requitements, but still, it hurts me xF
I Love You Man!!!! This old video saved my butt! I got an awful, awful STL where they put parts together but a million shells, and boolean combine was not working well in Meshmixer (odd artifacts on edges) this however, worked perfectly!!! As given, left, make solid, middle, and sharp edge preserve, right. www.dropbox.com/s/qrw1uta07c1kxqj/pegsfixed.png?dl=0 Thank you!!!
I know :) the ussue is hat the models I am creating wear arnour (up to 30 seperate meshes) which must be merged. Boolean just fails and doing it manually takes ages ^^
Can it fix daz hair to make it printable? Also having issue printing daz clothing. Only found one tutorial for the hair using blender but the person doesn't really tell you the step by step.
@@JJ-vp3bd No I didn't and because of the dead end I put my time and effort into other things and moved away from 3d modeling completely. I just couldn't justify the hours spent designing characters if in the end I wouldn't be able to print them, which for me, was my goal.
@@JJ-vp3bd I ran one test print and everything else printed fine except for the hair and clothing. I did have some issues with the face as well but I read that it may be due to the fact that I didn't erase the teeth and inner mouth parts. I didn't run the test again to try it out but it made sense given how perfect the rest of it printed out.
Hi angus, I have this file that is 'leaky' and each time I've tried to use Meshmixer to fill the thousands of holes it just crashes, any ideas of what I can do?
Your computer may be the bottleneck if the file is very large and damaged - I find it maxes all 6 cores on my Xeon mining rig using make solid - it's very CPU intensive. How big is the file in mb? Have you tried netfabb cloud? Might work.
both my gaming rig and reasonably high end laptop seem to crash as soon as I click "make solid" The file is only 5.27mb so I am a bit puzzled. will give netfabb cloud a shot too, cheers for that!