I really appreciate this! I've got a Holden VZ commodore 3.6L V6 Alloytec engine doing the same thing. The fact that you showed how to unclip the coil, mate, top bloke. Awesome video!
Thankyou for showing how to unclip the coil packs. I couldn’t find out how to do it til I came across ur video. I didn’t wanna bust the clips so I thought I’d find out first
Thanx Mate! Saved me my arm and a leg. )) Done the same on Holden Rodeo 2007 V6 in 2 hours after watching your video. God knows how long would of take me to work out how to unclip those coils without your video.
Awesome video mate. That is by far the best RU-vid demonstration of this I've seen. How to diagnose the faulty coil, to buying the correct coil for the motor to fully demonstrating the most fun part which is removing and replacing the manifold. I've replaced my faulty coil and the old girl now runs great again. Cheers fellas :)
Been stressing out about coils and car but thank you heaps first vz no help or support in life so you and your video are very much appreciated 🙏 thank you kind sir
Thanks very much, I have been looking for over an hour to see how to disconnect the coil connectors. I have an Alfa Romeo 3.2 V6 I have been told they are the same motor as the commodore. Anyway it was great to see they do have the same connections and how to disconnect without my heavy hands damaging the connection. Cheers
Great video mate, good clear instructions. For the life of me I do not understand why companies like GM design an engine knowing full well the inlet plenum will have to be removed every time you want to change plugs or coil packs. It would not have taken much of a tweak in the design to give the clearance necessary to facilitate easy removal. I think this is important considering the all aluminium construction of the engine and the potential to strip out threads over time. In your case the coil was fairly consistently faulty, but in some cases the coil is intermittent which may take a few goes to narrow down which one is dropping out (especially with no error codes). Either that or you replace all six at once thus driving up cost. Anyhow, as I said good job on the video and thanks for the effort in putting it together.
thanks for the feedback, and i most certainly agree regarding the design comments, just makes what could be an easy 30 second job take much much longer.
2 Things. The OBD2 readout should have indicated which coil was faulty but perhaps that is only on the "pro" version of Torque. The other thing is after having taking off the plenum I would suggest that checking at least 1 plug would give you peace of mind as to whether the plugs were, in fact, new. otherwise fine... ;-)
Thanks bro I have a VZ crewman ad and is nothing on RU-vid with Crewman as they are different due to having a full chassis and have some other different parts Very helpful
very helpful, mine was cylinder5 , obd scanner said misfire cylinder5, started engine, disconnected coil 5, no change in rough idling, num 5 coil can be removed without inlet manifold removal, i put a spark plug in the coil, reconnected coil power plug earthed spark plug to manifold, restarted engine, no spark from plug, new coil from repco, all fixed. thanks again
Great tutorial video mate, definitely the most comprehensive and easy to follow one that I've found for not only diagnosing which coil is faulty, but then fixing the problem. Glad that you took the time to show how to remove the clips, very handy and the only example I've found explaining how that's done properly. I have added this video to my VZ folder in my personal RU-vid account in case I need it again. Keep up the good work.
Good video, I had what felt like a misfire at low revs, and a splutter on high revs. Changed the plugs and its all good. Lucky it already had the metal gaskets. Also changed the inlet o-ring and gasket on the radiator filler while I had the inlet off.
Great video! Finally someone has showed how to remove the coil wires from there plugs! Did you think about putting on the mace 12mm manifold insulators?
My VZ had a problem where it was running good until up to temp and then had a bad miss and no power between 1,500 and 2,000 rpm. Also terrible fuel economy. I also had no codes showing on Torque, a bit strange. Maybe a proper reader would get more info? I bought a set of coils, plugs and plenum gaskets on ebay for $160 and a set of injectors for around $60. I got a set of NGK platinum plugs on sale at Autobarn fro $70 because plugs are such a drama to change on these engines and I don't think cheap plugs are worth the trouble. Took me about 2 1/2 hours and it now runs a dream with much more power. I thought I might as well just change everything out as it is so cheap on ebay and I didn't want to have to keep chasing problems. I kept two of the old coils which I know are good in case I have a problem with any of the ebay coils.
Great Job on that, You mentioned th t the car was advertised with new plugs yurt still had Factory tasked on it, Makes me question the plug change No big deal just observation
20:15 ...in the future robot humanoid mechanics may be like this - with hopefully less labour time charge on the final bill. Thanks for the mace engineering manifold tip.
Brilliant that’ll save me some money ive already got my old ones that I’ve replaced before now they’re spares, the only trouble is if I put an old one back in it might be a bad one then id have to swap it for another one
I know this is a bit late but you can remove the driver's side closest to fire wall and passenger side middle and closest to fire wall, without taking plenum off, so if you have plenum off, replace the three you can't do with new plugs/coils, and then play around with your spares on the ones you can do with it on.
Great video mate. Very generous with your knowledge. I'll be tackling the coils and new plugs on my 2006 Rodeo with your video close by. I wanted to know how the cheaper coils faired? Would you recommend to spend the extra money or are the cheapies adequate. Thanks again for the video.
thanks for the comments mate, appreciate it. on the coils, more than 18 months later, so far so good with the cheapy replacement, although i did only do the one. at some stage i will replace the lot, and probably get a decent quality set, maybe not OEM, but a bit better than the cheapest.
While your at it you if you haven't already fix the crappy PCV Valve on driver side valve / rocker cover the hole for the valve is a literal pin hole drill it out a few sizes bigger
@@scaredyet "yes" If you dont the engine will blow the timming chain cover seals As this tinny whole cloggs VERY quickly Here is a good video to explain the problem ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5QLPU1Qh2oo.html
i can't remember at what point the different designed coils came in, but it's always worth just pulling one of the rear ones off (that you can access without removing the manifold) and checking the plug type to make sure you get the right one.
Mine just shakes in idle but doesnt seem to ping or miss when driving. Sometimes seems to have low power and hesitation when taking off with light accelerator. No mechanics seem to be able to figure out what it is. I have already replaced all coils plugs and injectors but i wouldn't rule these out as they could be faulty out of the box. No codes either, edit: i just did this unplug test and its not any of the coils. And the other notable symptom is it uses more fuel than before. Was always 11 per 100km or less but now more like 12-17
Mine is the same havnt found the problem yet Probably something top end in think Valves most likely. These engines as they get up in miles do tend to burn oil
Mine does the same thing, I've been told it's most likely carbon build up on the pistons causing a misfire. Apparently spraying water into the intake with a spray bottle while running will clean off the carbon deposits. I have not tried it yet so I can't tell you if it works. Can anyone confirm this.
Has anyone figured it out yet just got my spark plugs done by mechanics about 3weeks ago , while in process of them changing my spark plugs they broke 2 of my coils, so they called and ask me to get other coils from supercheap and so I did, after it was done I picked it up and drove it and it started doing that 🔝 my car lost heaps of power,speed and now it doesn’t run like it used to but still running * but the miss problem when idle I did figure out So please if anyone found a solution to this please let me know, I just want the full power and speed back that these cars normally have
10:43 same as trying to remove that fkn sensor clip from the air intake hose, had to leave it on when changing oil pressure sensor. Couldn't for the life of me figure out how to remove it without damaging it.
i have heard and read the same thing, which I certainly did try to do initially, but i couldn't get the thing to budge one bit. so i went the full removal and gasket replacement way.
I have noticed that you did not check the spark plug? You said that you purchased car 6/7 months ago and that previous owner told you that they recently replaced the spark plugs, however looking at the gaskets on the motor I would have to say that they are the original gaskets that have never been changed, why didn't they replace the gaskets. My point is always check plugs when removing upper manifold if you suspect faulty coil as it could be your plugs. Do not believe everything you are told if in doubt check.
100% get what you are saying here, and yes I did think about it seeing the gasket was original, but basically, I do intend to replace all coils and plugs very soon, this was just a stop-gap to get the car running better. If the problem was not rectified i would have gone further into checking the plugs obviously. There is apparently a way to lift the manifold and also lower section together so it doesn't break that gasket, but I couldn't work it out.
@@AussieMonsters-on-RU-vid HI totally understand if you are intending to replace all coils and plugs soon, my only concern would be that after going to do all the work in removing the manifold ( why the Holden engineers did not design the air intake manifold so you did not have to remove it is beyond belief) you discover the problem still is there, you have to remove the manifold all over again to check and replace plug. Also this may be of help if you are still in the market to buy new coils. On e-bay the following seller as off 9/9/2019 ozyautopartsexpress, is selling full set 6 of original Bosch coils for the vz for $159 plus $15.99 postage total cost $174.99. these are brand new coils in original packaging. from Holden dealers expect to pay about $80 dollars each coil.
You may regret not checking the condition of the plugs. In fact you would have been better off replacing the full set of coils and plugs. If the car has over 170k kms perhaps doing the rocker cover gaskets and cam actuator seals wouldn't be a bad idea .
On the black plastic covers, there are no nuts holding it down, it just "pops" on and off, if you have never taken them off before, they may be a bit stiff and require what seems like more than necessary force to pull them off the studs, but they should just come straight off
just a cheapy bluetooth thingy off ebay. here's one similar to what i got: www.ebay.com.au/itm/2017-Mini-Auto-Car-ELM327-OBD2-ODBII-CAN-Bluetooth-Scanner-Tool-Torque-Android/152575250443 there's a whole stack of them on there, price varies wildly. note these things will NOT read or clear SRS codes/faults. they need the special $2k holden tool.
@@poogzie HI I purchased the following scan tool from e-bay- HHOBD ELM327 Car OBD2 OBDII Bluetooth CAN Scanner for TORQUE ANDROID LP works well on my 2005 VZ Berlina hopes this is of help.
I just got an el cheapo generic bluetooth OBDII reader from Ebay for like $11. Then I use an app called Torque (Lite) on the phone to read the codes. The lite version is free and it seems to work pretty well. I know there is the Tech2 readers that are around but they are quite expensive. They read pretty much everything, like SRS/airbag faults which the OBDII does not.
Hi like your video just like to know I like to change my no two cylinder ignition coil but don’t know which one is no do you know which one is no two cylinder in position thx
all the even number cylinders are on the right hand side as you are looking at the motor from the front, or the passenger side in this case. so no. 2 would be the first towards the front (the opposite side to the one i changed)
hi aussie monsters do yo not have to use gasket goo on the new steel plenium gaskets i,m about to take mine off and can see they have done that thanks bit of a pain if i have to renew the steel ones
no, apparently not. Everything i watched and read whilst researching the job last year showed that gasket sealant was NOT required (and in fact not recommended) with the metal gaskets. which is great as they can be reused.
Great video mate. Just about to do mine on 2006 Rodeo and will be going step by step with your video. Very generous. I wanted to know how the cheap coil travelled? Is it worth spending extra money or does the cheapy go ok?
For any one that knows or doesn’t do not get a 3.6 litre engine it’s the start of the really bad engine problems and they do not last my dad has a Crewe 3.8 the last of the good v6 motors because 3.8 has a steel Block when the 3.6 doesn’t so all I’m saying don’t get a Crewe with a 3.6 v6
this one has done 300,000km's so far....... It's the 2006 and onwards models that have the much documented timing chain issues, which is why I got this 05 model specifically.
first thing take the little clips out , its pretty easy (did it off screen) fuck off ! them liitle clips are cunts of things when 9/10 of them don't screw out. good job dude ;)
no. 6 i believe would be the very rear on the right hand side (as looking at motor like in the video). changing this one should be a lot easier as you would not have to remove the intake manifold to get access. i think all the odd numbered cylinders are on the left, and the even numbers are on the right, starting from the front going to the back in numeric order.
If the mechanic done mate work they would’ve cost between $350 to $500 or even up to $750Mechanics!!! these days!!!!expect a wage the same as a politician specially here in Canberra!!!They always say I it’s a five hour job which is fucking bullshit
