Hi, great video. But one suggestion, can you edit and add to the beginning to check the bulbs on the back of the instrument panel that they are not burned out and define lack of illumination because the bulb(s) are burned out and actual pixel failure. It’s easy to think the lcd strip provides the illumination and think because it’s not glowing orange that it’s the strip when in fact it’s bulbs burned out. Also some BMW including my 2005 X5 use a different lcd assembly and ribbon which is different and costs a lot more money. God Bless.
My white strip where the screen sits was soldered on in 2 places, aftermarket butcher or genuine 2001 e39 530i standard? Also pulled the Temp gauge just enough to totally wreck it. Be careful there. P.S. I used emery boards (nail files) to finish cleaning. A very good and clear picture of the 4 clips on each connector is required !
Great video, but I have a question that I'm sure you can answer for me. Rather than melting holes to get to the hidden screws, why don't you remove the instrument needles and lift the panel off. I was just about to do this to mine and then figured there is probably a very good reason why you don't do it that way. Thanks again, Martin.
Yeah, great question! The reason is that the needles are attached in a very specific manner to the motors behind the panel. If you remove the needles, you'll have a VERY hard time reinstalling them in the correct position (otherwise gauges won't be accurate). hope that makes sense, thanks for watching!
Retiras los topes de las agujas y ellas bajan sola a su posición en descanso sin topes, ahí pegas una cinta haces una marca con un marcador sobre la cinta y después las vuelves a colocar frente a la marca, subes las agujas con el dedo y vuelves a colocar los topes de las agujas, de esa manera no se pierde la calibración de fábrica…
Using a soldering iron is the stupidest thing to do. Unfortunately, I figured this out late. A Dremel tool will do little damage and access screws as well.
Not stupid at all, I fix plastic things all the time with a temp controlled soldering iron. You can set it to just hot enough and it won't go through PCB and there's no chance of damaging the screw head.
Hmm... The (Amazon) description of the LCD panel with ribbon cable you specify states it must be bonded to the circuit board with a T-bar soldering tip. You did not seem to do that in this video. Or did I totally miss something? Is that Amazon seller now selling a different assembly?
You're correct! T-solder is recommended but if you clean the contacts well, the assembly itself actually presses the circuits against each other, making a solid connection.
Great video, thank you! I just did mine with the ribbon-only kit as it came with my car. Still having problems though with missing/feint LCD pixels, so I’ve just ordered a unit with a new screen attached to the ribbon, like you’ve used. Hoping for better results.
I'm certain it will cause some fault codes, but you could likely drive a car like this. It would probably lead to a tampering dot on the cluster because of a mileage difference when you reinstalled. This can be coded out by a professional. Good luck!
Thank you for your reply. I asked because I attempted to do the cluster repair but I ruined 2 of the stepper motors now I need to send the unit out and I need to move the vehicle when there’s street cleaning.
@@im_so_es_ef_wit_it I just did the same thing today!! So annoyed with myself. Speedo needle now doesn't spring back. I think when I drilled the hole the drill bit picked up the clear plastic sheet under the face and must have pulled the needle up a mm or 2 which stuffed the internal spring. I just hope the parts don't take too long for the repairer to get in.
also, seeing the Seafoam and oxygen sensors on your shelf there it's perfectly clear your an enthusiastic amateur ... Oxygen sensors must come from the dealership... always... even though they are Bosch brand, there's a quality difference between the dealer and anywhere else.. Same goes for spark plugs... Don't know why but it's absolutely a fact. Also, you must replace the O2's in pairs, both the pre and post cat at same time, and for the V8's, it's best to replace ALL FOUR, even if only one is bad... that's just how it is. Also, Seafoam is terrible shit... don't use it. For a fuel additive, use the Techron one that's just straight Techron, or BG.
Most important tip in my opinion is buying a cable with display pre-attached. Not at all worth saving a couple of bucks trying to align to the old display
