There’s a shorted filter boss bolt if u ever want to get rid of the stock cooler and mount the sandwich straight to the engine, my stock one broke internally and oil in coolant (not vice versa) so even if not running coolant there anymore it can still leak, my guess is it cracks inside after removing the filter so many times
Did you try replacing the intercooler as well? I know you were chasing a heat problem and I’m doing the same thing. I’ve done the radiator and looking TJ do larger trans cooler and intercooler.
Yeah intercooler was done too. My intercooler did stack in front of the radiator. That is obviously not optimal, but I chose that intercooler for other reasons as well
How does this affect oil changes? Is there a way to drain the cooler system, do you just make sure the engine is hot enough for the thermostat is open?
You will need additional oil on the initial fill up. I also assume you aren't getting everything out. Because of my hose routing, I don't think the cooler would fully drain even with the thermostat open.
Do you know who makes the sandwich adapter? And what temperature does it open? If it is less than 200F, I would want to replace the thermostat with a 200F if possible...
What is the oil filter size, or more importantly what is the outside diameter of the gasket on the cooler sandwich plate? I have a 2008 F150 with a 4.6 liter engine. The gasket diameter is 2 3/4” on the FL-820-S filter it takes. Also the thread size I need is a M22 or 22 mm x 1.5.
I want to do this to my 14 fx4 3.5 eco, i have it mpt tuned, better trans cooler just made the switch to the better P-OAT (yellow) coolant, temps are better BUT id like to run a external oil cooler but keep the stock sandwich plate cooler in place for long idle times driving city ect.. but i feel having the external will help keep temps cooler as it bypasses through the external in motion.. did you use a thermostatic sandwich plate? If you did it would make sense since you deleted the stock cooler..my thing is...idk if i should use a standard pass through sandwich plate or the thermostatic?... im going to run a aftermarket universal kit..not the mishimoto unit
Yeah its a thermostatic plate. I think you would want to run one especially if you live anywhere cold. Because its going to trh cooler no matter what, it will be real cold on negative temps
@@NSQGarage yeah i understand it will constantly flow through the external cooler, my thinking was with the stock coolant cooled sandwhich plate still in tact and working as it should, the coolant will also help recirc the loop to maintain temperature because the coolant is already absorbing turbo temp oil and engine heat as a whole.. im just thinking as far as in idle state or city driving.. when fans kick on it will help dissipate heat from radiator while circulating and the stock oil cooler sees coolant on the cold outlet side of radiator after thermostat... im just torn because i wouldnt mind the insurance of a thermostatic sandwich plate..but alot im seeing on Amazon ect open under 180° to me thats not good.. considering you want atleast 200° before it opens so the oil can get hot enough to allow the PCV system to collect actual valors to condense into the catch can.. if those contaminants cannot boil off or flash off the oil will stay contaminated..just looking for a happy medium lol.. you seem to be a guy that would know.. im very shsrp with this stuff but keeping both has me thinking
@@anthony8787 yeah what you are saying makes sense. I was more concerned about not "pre-heating" the coolant before it goes into the block. Being in Utah, summers are hot, the elevation is high and the mountain passes are steep. But if you aren't overheating a lot, keeping both seems like a good compromise for cold weather. How are you overheating btw? Isn't Ohio flat? Lol 😂
@@NSQGarage im mpt tuned 93 octane tunes, tow, PRX and economy.. engine runs hotterand we still have hills and hollers out this way as well.. our interstates have alot of elevation as well especially on rt90 going eat or west from where i am.. with a load she gets pretty hot
Anyone done anything like this on a 2018-20 f150 2.7 eco boost? I’m looking to separate the engine cooling and transmission cooling and basically getting rid of the heat exchanger. Got a mishimoto transmission cooler before I realized that it wasn’t set up for my current truck
I'm in the middle of doing exactly that. The Raptor has divorced coolant/oil/transmission systems so you can use the OEM Raptor lines to plumb everything. Mine is a 3.5 but I'd guess the transmission is the same 10r80 with same connections in your 2.7.
