Fixing the Wobbly Frame on the Ender 3 V3 SE 3D Printer 

Thank you for your input! The machine definitely has some strange design choices. Funny you mention the blue thread locker, I just used some on it. It’ll be in the follow up video, haha.

I just recently saw the inside of the V3 SE. I totally assumed it had a traditional frame inside the plastic shell. I was definitely shocked that everything is supported by a thin sheet. I will be checking out these gantry braces, thank you!

I'm trying to look fopr the exact gantry brace you are talking about, but there are multiple versions now, so I'm confused. Is it okay if you link the specific one you used?

@@RetroDaddyPH This is the brace I printed. I printed the one that uses the LCD mounts so no extra holes need drilled in. There are a lot more options out there now that I'm looking again! www.printables.com/model/730007-ender-3-v3-se-gantry-support/related

Thanks for watching! Creality put in a lot of cool features, but the corners they cut on the frame hit really hard.

@@3DVibes and the PTFE lined heatbreak is inexcusable for new printer in 2023

I used 16mm bolts on one side and 18mm bolts where you could see the threads. I have been using blue threadlocker since getting the new profile rails. I'm glad multiple people have brought that up, I wasn't sure how much good it would do. It would help keep the bolts from loosening, but not sure about stiffening up the wobble. A different bracket for the lead screws may help, but I'd like to have access to the actual frame and not just the plastic shell with heat pressed inserts, haha. I'm sure printable mods will be coming soon.

@@3DVibes I was also thinking teflon tape maybe to help keep the mesh tight idk. Worth trying those few things then since new rails. I’m trying this weekend since I got a big jam

Are m3 x 20 to​o long? @@3DVibes

@Redspark77 for mine, the 20mm fit but was right up to the end of the tapped threads.

@3DVibes mine did too, I didn't thought this was an issue, but do you recommend changing those screws to a smaller size again?

Not at all, it's a world's difference from the original ender 3, he's just improving some QC issues since it's quite an early launch model, but nowadays with a ender 3 v3 SE you just have to click level and it's the bed is ready to go, hit print and you're all set. No more shitty springs on the bed or sagging in the X gantry since there's dual z rods, auto bed leveling with auto z height adjustment, and a new direct driver extruder that works fking great. I have an ender 3 pro, v2, v2-neo and the v3 se and I'll tell you that the v3 is a great improvement, awesome printer for its price! Wish anyone who had an original ender 3 and a bad experience could have had this one and have a totally different view on 3d printing.

It improved a lot brou

I agree. I imagine most people who buy the V3 SE can get it running easy, where the original Ender 3 had a huge amount of new hobbyists give up and return their machines.

My first machine was a Geeetech acrylic kit and it was really horrible. Bent rods, brittle material, poorly crimped stepper cables, bare aluminium build plate that required masking tape, buggy control board, primitive hot end etc. I still got it working after a few weeks of tinkering and modding and it made usable prints (strictly PLA, any attempts to use anything else caused only frustration) though the Z wobble was always there and the print quality was very mediocre at best. Then after a couple of years with that abomination (maybe 5 years ago) I got myself the original Ender 3. What an improvement, it was like night and day. Just a couple of hours of assembly and adjustment and the first print was perfect! The machine has mostly worked like a charm for me, just a few failed prints and some problems with the original bowden tube couplers, I have not had to level the bed except when changing something like the nozzle, build plate (I tried glass for a while but went back to the original) etc. A year ago I upgraded it with a V4.2.7 motherboard and a MicroSwiss full metal direct drive extruder/hotend assembly and now it's almost completely silent and capable of printing TPU (which it does a great job of, with the bowden system I could not get it to work with TPU though it's always been great with PLA and PETG) and high temperature filaments up to 300 C. I'm still very happy with my OG Ender 3 but a couple of weeks ago I got a V3 KE and it's even better. Faster, has automatic leveling, more advanced build plate (magnetic instead of bulldog clips), better and more sturdy axles etc. I never had much trouble with the manual leveling after installing stiffer springs but the automatic leveling makes the first layer just perfect, no problems with adhesion or release, no "elefant's foot". And this is so easy to use, took me something like 15 minutes to assemble and maybe another to calibrate (which it does automatically) and I was printing. And as the KE has built-in WiFi I don't need to transport a memory card from my computer to the printer, I just upload the Gcode straight from the slicer and start printing. I'll still use my upgraded OG Ender 3 for smaller parts and special materials but the new model is perfect for bigger things as it's so fast (and it will be faster when I get a 0.6mm nozzle for it), has a filament run out sensor and the first layer is always perfect. So in my (maybe unpopular but I know first hand what the first truly affordable 3D-printers were like) opinion the original Ender 3 was a great machine for the price, especially at the time, and the V3 KE is even better.

@@Murgoh Cool! I guess I could have done way worse reading you comment. My Ender 3 did work but it was just a pain to use mostly. WIth the motherboard upgrade it was very quite as well which is nice. I guess that leveling the bad and the sag on the z axis were the issues I had the most trouble with. Just general QC issues as well (which meant that I had to do maintance way too often). but considering that it did print well after is a plus. I'm using the p1p today. Just a charm. I work only on my projects never on the printer. I guess a new ender 3 v3 with autobed leveling would do the same work today. Hope thats really the case for most. It's really nice that the printers today are so good that people going in to the 3d design hobby don't need to be an expert 3d printers debugger to make it work at most price points. I guess creality is a very good bet for anyone with a really tight budget like I was a few years back. But even for new people to the hobby I will recommend compenies with better QC track record even if it's 70-100% more expensive, just based on my experience. I believe it is worth the money.

hi, checkout if all screws are thight, also check the backbone bracket under the hood, i had to use all allankeys that where supplied,😉

It's a really impressive machine, but the frame is just too fragile to print high speed. Especially with the spool on top. And it seems a lot of people are getting their V3 SE and KE printers not assembled properly. Lots of loose bolts and bed rails.

the KE and SE are identical in structure, only the Hotend and Firmware are changed for klipper, the problem with V3 is precisely the cheap material of the structure

@@HugoCesar206 ist not a problem. I have been running the printer for well over a month and well over 700 hours. No hardware failed on me even once. I have also been testing it with and without a vibration sensor and both modes are fine. Sure it's not a reinforced steel construction but it's not priced ia a way you would expect it to be. Hands down you can't find a better printer than the KE in that price range!

Mine prints out of box, you just need to not put any weight on frame. Keeping spool on top is a dumb idea on only printer anyway. 140$ is a deal and there is no better printer in this price.