That comment brings back memories. Back in the day I was living and working in Boston. I was commuting in one day when I hear on the radio that there’s a big accident on I-93 South and it’s caused by a washing machine in the middle of the highway. One of out engineers is late for work and he travels the I-93 route. I see him finally at work and he says, you’ll never believe why I ‘m late. I stop him and say, “ I bet you hit a washing machine on the highway”. He couldn’t believe I guessed that. True story.
You need to drain your fuel filter bowl before disassembly , to keep contaminants from getting on the filter side. No need for a K&N filter, as you don't service the regular air filter! Lol
Next time you shop for drill bits, get M35 or M42 cobalt bits. High speed steel with cobalt added. Cobalt coated is a gimmick. They cost more but last 10 times longer, if you don't break 'em. I have been using them full time since 20 years ago. In my local ace, they have them locked up in their own display case.
Keep paper air filter,you will smudge the mass air flow sensor with KN filter, They don't filter as well in dirty environment,that's why they have more airflow. Just change the paper filter regularly.
@@Dumpster_Dave If they have more airflow while their filtering surface is way smaller,it's because they don't filter as well as paper. Oil is just a bandaid like on foam filter on a motocross or a weed eater to catch fine particles foam can't catch. You don't want oil on your MAF sensor,it will mess up the sensor sensitivity and ability to measure airflow.
Glad you decided to use the car jack in the end. They lift so high, perfect to hold something up while mounting it. No need to ruin the back, wish you used it right from the start.
There's a second fuel filter, if I remember correctly its directly above the driveshaft, next to the fuel tank under the bed. Manual says to change both filters every 15k miles but I pushed that to 20k miles and the filters still look very clean when I change them. Probably gonna go 25k this time and see how they look. I almost always fill up at Stewarts in Coxsackie, don't know if that makes a difference. Marion Blair has a great youtube channel for 4th Gen Cummins, check him out if you have time. If you use 4wd much you may want to grease the universal on the front driveshaft between the transfer case and the front diff, I imagine that gets overlooked a lot on these trucks.
Hi Dave! That new air filter made a world of difference! The brush bumper looks great. How about a hand-welded towing bumper? The quality of anything manufactured withing the last 20 years is sad. Those drill bits were a perfect example. For prime day, I bought myself a set of 14 DeWalt bilts for $13 on sale from $25. They drill through wood and metal nicely since they're new and sharp. I'm sure sharpening the old bits would have saved me money, but I bought the new ones because of the triangular base shape designed to reduce chuck spin. Still spins plently. That's to be expected though. Sure don't make em' like they used to! Thanks for sharing. Take care, Gan
Nice on Dave, routine maintenance goes a long way.. When replacing brake pads, I always cracked open the bleed nipple a bit and pushed the pistons back. It wasn't to make the job easier, but to force out the fluid in the calliper. When you see the crud and color of the fluid coming out, you understand why its done. The calliper fluid gets a lot of moisture heat and crud in it it is degraded fluid. So, yup you need to top up some brake fluid......but you got good stuff in the calliper now instead of degraded crap. You will notice your brakes work better.
That red grease from your grease gun might make the rubber bushings swell in your brake calipers. They make synthetic grease for that application. Just a heads up.
Also people dont realize the importance of rotating tires. You get longer life out of them if you do. If you take a small pry bar and stick it in the hole in the center of the caliper and pry against the rotor it will press the pistons in enough to slide the caliper off. No need to sledgehammer them off lol just saying.
There’s a drain on the fuel filter housing . That yellow thing, turn it and it dumps out the hose on the bottom. by not emptying it you bypassed a bunch of crude. Also those black plastic tailgate covers are 60 bucks at the dealer.
Fuel delivery companies use bentonite clay to absorb water in fuel, and it clogs up filters pumps, everything.. like playdough. They are responsible if water is in their fuel and damages your engine.. you can never prove but thats that. It gets in the gas station tanks most dont care to clean their tanks, choose a high traffic gas station with solid concrete around their filling lids.. if concrete is cracked rain water will get into filling neck and when delivery trucks fill tanks they just open them up and gallons of water goes into stations tank .
All tires start to round in the front if you dont rotate them. Doesnt make them bad it just how it works. Those falkens looked very good. Way better quality than those cheep mud terrians. Even with an alignment those MTs are gonna chop and feather so better rotate them Every 3k miles. Big lugs love to cup.
your shop needs some safety glasses laying around for you to use, even if its just to keep bits of junk out of your eyes when looking up from below at stuff ur working on.
@@Dumpster_Dave buy a ton more! promise it's cheaper than one medical bill for like six MRI's and removing bits of iron oxide from around the edges of ur eyeball for 6~12 hours.... then dealing with the damage after for weeks.
I know you put that brush guard on because you are worried about my trailer hitch denting your bumper like it dented Andrews. Well, jokes on you Dave I got a bigger trailer hitch! Soooo your brush guard will be rendered useless😈😈😈😈
There is nothing in a name like it use to be ,EVERYTHING we get is made in Japan- China- Korea, same with ,Dewalt, craftsman, its sad , why can't usa build these things ,
