I love your ingenuity to make your fixes and upgrades on a budget that we can all relate to. Well done Andris. I think this project deserves a “Super Mom” seal of approval.
Andris, that lever according to JapanMachineryParts is the control for the PTO. I’m pretty sure you’ll find that thread on that nipple is NPT,it’s tapered so that as you tighten it, it will seal itself, no thread tape required to prevent tape getting into the system and blocking control ports. I really appreciate a man who looks after his machinery and you do that very well mate, the new paint job was the icing on the cake. Another splendid video Andris, heaps of content, wit and the commentary was great, as always. Take care mate
Good job! At 2:06:20 To remove tools from the tail stock, crank the handle to retract it fully. It will push the tool out for you. They are a friction fit with the taper. And the flat on the end is to keep the drill chuck or the taper adapters from spinning in the tail stock.
Found your channel only last week thank youtube algorithm not. Enjoying your videos, your funny, don't pretend to know everything and keen to learn. Loving the dry sense of humor. Keep it up.
Love you, Bro. Your humour, your Family, your Values. You give us something that most have lost since the 1960s; it is called living and life; thank you so much for including your "Super Mom, and cute nieces". From an equally crazy Canadian, though just a little older
Someone may have already said this, but that rotary valve under the left side of the seat with all the hydraulic lines changes the control pattern. Most likely between ISO and SAE patterns. Different patterns change what functions control lever movements activate.
Andris, how in the world do you make working on a Yanmar look interesting?! 2 1/2 hours of you doing your repairs was a real bonus! Do that anytime you want to. Have a great weekend, take care
2:24 As always, Andris has made every effort to present us with the best and most authentic sound effects 🤣👌 two and a half hours of the finest content 😘
I believe tat steel is Hardox. The left lever at the back is the PTO selector lever. The pedal to the left is a 2 speed pedal. The lower lever under left consol could be to widening the tracks if its equiped with that option.
Regarding the roller zerks, I would weld a 1 to 1.5 inch open pipe around the zerks. They will get jammed with dirt but will be protected from grinding them off. When it is time to grease the rollers just pull out the pressure washer to clean the zerks off.
The new fitting is likely a NPT (National Pipe Tapered) fitting or a BSPT (British Standard Pipe Tapered) or vise versa. But if the old male to male fitting is Parallel its likely an "Inverted Flare" fitting of some type. It could be JIS ( Japanese Industrial Standard) "30° Male Inverted Seat" which are interchangeable with BSPP (British Standard Pipe Paralell) connections. There seems to be a concave bevel on the face of the male fitting on the ID. If you look into the female fitting on the boom and there looks like a convex seat or like the tubing/ferrule end on a compression fitting (the nut side) its likely an inverted flare or BSPP/JIS Female. If that IS NOT the case then I would say it might be a JIS Tapered/BSP Tapered thread. It could also be "NPSM (National Pipe Straight Mechanical) " which would explain the 30° seat and straight threads on the old male fitting, and the fact that the new fitting will thread on but won't go in "all the way" and wont seal. But i doubt this. Both NPT and BSPT fittings seal on the threads (with use of pipe sealant) and are dimensionaly similar but not interchangeable., they have the same thread size but differnt pitches, they will thread together but not seal. Which would explain the leak you had... (This could also be lack of thread sealant) NPT (National Pipe Tapered) fittings will thread into BSPP and BSPT (and JIS T and JIS Inverted Seat) Fittings but wont seal properly, (even with pipe sealant). BSPT Fittings will thread into BSPP fitting and will seal with the aid of pipe sealant. Since its a Japanese machine the old male fitting MIGHT be a "JIS tapered" (aka BSPT) and the boom side female then is likely JIS Female Tapered (aka BSPT, aka British Standard Pipe Tapered) or a BSPP Female which will seal on the threads To a BSPT male without a gasket or oring (but with thread sealant) If the boom side is a BSPP female and the male fitting WAS a "BSPP Oring" (since your said the old male appeared parallel) and that oring has perished/been lost, but these are usually only present on swivel fittings .. if any of this was the case though it would likely leak, unless a LOT torque and pipe sealant/old paint (visible on the old fitting) somehow molded themselves enough to seal. But as i said if the old fittings male threads are parallel and there is no place for an oring, and the female fitting looks to be a CONVEX cone in it my guess would be be some sort of inverted flare fitting or more likely a JIS ( Japanese Industrial Standard) "30° Male Inverted Seat" or BSPP both of which has parallel thread connections and a fundamentally interchangeable.
@@audiquattro6768 Do that make JIC inverted flare?, The expected end of a JIC would be a male fitting with a CONVEX sealing surface.. where as both side are concave on this fitting. My guess is its an inverted flare type fitting (convex sealing surface on the female side), more specifically and most likely a "JIS 30° Inverted Seat" AKA BSPP.
hello the big valve on the left with several hydraulic pipes is for inferring the controls from left to right and vice versa and the lever on the left like a parking brake is a brake for the swing
Yine shirli dokunuşlar yaptın.İnan bana, Camarata senin kadar becerikli değil.Hemen yenisini söylüyor ve geliyor... Sen ise yaratıyorsun ve yaşatıyorsun.
For your track roller pin zerk fitting problem, could you weld a round pipe, similar to what you had. Just thread on some pipe caps on the ends. When it's time to lube them, unscrew the cap, service, and screw the cap back on.
Hi Andris. Your personality and your whole being is an absolute credit to you, you look at every job logically a fix it accordingly. And you mange to do it all by yourself, I love watching you work. It gives me hope, I retired many years ago. Now I can’t physically do much, but seeing how you work is a great tonic. I thank you from the bottom of my heart. Never stop doing what you do, you’re more than just a video. The Yanmar looked fantastic after the paint job and the stickers. She looks brand new. Keep up the good work ✅
For the roller to protect the grease fittings: I would use the same pipe, but shorter pieces, maximum 1-3mm longer than the fitting, maybe even flush with the tip of the fitting. Less room for dirt, and due to less stickout smaller risk of getting ripped of, since you get less force on the shorter pieces. Leaving them blank could result in loosing them much faster.
Great job and that fitting is tapered pipe thread and use thread tape as sealant, cut off a small piece of threaded black iron pipe and use a screw on pipe plug to cover those grease fittings just put antisieze on the threads
I just clicked on the video without looking at the length. Its now 03:31 am in the Faroe Islands 🙂Fantastic stuff, I wish I had your energy. I have a small workshop in the basement of our house. I have some basic tools for mainly woodworking. So I´m down there pretending to be Antspants. You motivate me to try to do more, being more productive.
there may be hardened teeth that slip and lock onto those bucket tooth stubs (common approach), the tapered thread is pipe thread (use teflon seal to wrap the thread), 4.5 mm drill bit is 3/16" diameter (freedom units), you can try to make a triangle bracket to move the top of the thumb cylinder out and back and use the cool new lathe to make bushings to tighten up the thumb joints, and back the tailstock on the lathe inside all the way then a pin inside will eject the morse taper tooling. so many options, so little time.
If you bend some 6mm polycarbonate sheet to wrap around the roof, it should add enough strength to make the roof roll over protection as well. Just bolt in in the outside of the metal bars to stop the roof folding sideways.
According to some parts books I have as pdf-files, the lever behind the red one is a P.T.O Control. Do let me know if you want the parts books. It's for a Yanmar B22 and a Yanmar B22-2. Great videos :) Keep em coming. Greetings from Norway :)
I don't know why I love to watch your videos. Maybe I have my father's mechanic genes. I really enjoy watching you figure things out. You definitely have a wealth of knowlege about almost everything!
Fabrication work my friend, cool Andris! I always enjoy watching you repairing your equipment and love your new modifications and additions in your workshop! I think your table will hold anything my friend!
Thanks Ants for a great two and a half hour of entertainment 👍 your Yanmar looks super chic, love the black panels with the dark and light blue - the only suggestion I would make it to use more of the dark blue. For the grease fittings I would go for your idea of the thick angled metal below the fittings. Your work on the cylinder was amazing, great to see you experimenting with the lathe. Best wishes to you and your family 🌿🌿🌿
It may be a BSPT (brittish standard pipe tapered). Both NPT and BSPT needs some sort of sealant. NPTF (fuel) is drysealing. NPT has 60 degrees and BSP has 55 degrees.
Tapered male threads (NPTT) should not be used on parallel female threads. Tapered threads are usually for air not hydraulic. Parallel threads (BSPT) usually have a thread sealant or Dowty compound washer). I use 3M liquid hydraulic sealant.
2:11:40 some materials also work-harden when you go too slow. Going slow causes less chips to take the heat away, and a material can harder itself that way. Going for bigger chips keeps the material colder.
Most lathes have an extractor in the tailstoc wind all the way back , then give the hand a cople of quick snaps back by hand against the screw limit , if the part in the taper has a tang it will pop out . If out wind fourd and expose the hole in the side of the shaft, you then need a tapered wedge to remove the drill or centre
Place the hand drill on the left side of your body so as it wants to spin the whole drill to the right your body is up against the drill and helping keep it from spinning out of your hands. Be careful because it can still spin out of control.
1:40:30 A short piece of pipe cut open - shaped like the letter U and welded on with the open end down would protect the grease fitting and allow easy cleanout.
I think that the thing with many hydraulic lines is to change the pattern of control usage. Since you are accustomed to the controls as they are now, to change it would be unnecessary.
Bro, taper on hydraulic fitting is pipe thread (supposed to get tighter as it’s screwed in). Lever at the back left is your warp drive (when you want to exceed C on your PTO). Search in your Japanese owner’s manual for “hidden grease zerks” to find all of them (I hate when they do that). Definitely take those buckets to a good Estonian dental tech for some new dentures (teeth are normal wear maintenance items, plus your machine will then be able to consume solid food again!)
New teeth for the bucket is definitely better, also the damaged/old teeth could damage the bucket itself and that's a lot more of an expensive , complicated repair!
Just wanted to make a suggestion. Buy yourself or build the crimper for crimping the hydraulic pipes, you can get them to fit on your hydraulic press. When you have a pipe bust the pipe work is normally fairly cheap its the hydraulic fittings that coost alot. I did this years ago and have save tons of money. Take your old pipe cut off the fitting and as long as they were not wot was leaking and knackered you either put them in the lathe and remove the crimped part which is literally just a piece of tube, once thats removed all thats left is a barbed fitting , you then weld on a new piece of tube which needs to be the same internal measurement so you won't have problems sliding the new rubber tube back on then re-crimp your fitting and boom done. Obviously between cutting the old crimp off clean up the overal fitting with a wire brush. My crimper cost me £165 which was 5 years ago and it paid for itself affter replacing 3 pipes as you can also use old pipe as alot of the time a bust pipe is caused by rubbing and the rest of the pipe especially if its inside the machine is like new. I've not had 1 of my remade pipes with old fitting bust. It honestly works I only use my machines on a farm or doing friends favours it saves you loads of money and you dont lose days cause of down time etc takes about an hour if that once you know wot your doing .
I would have changed color from that soviet blue to dark boom where greese don’t stick out so well. And the upper carrier to some yellow or orange. Under carrier is usually covered with dirt and mud, so dark color works there as well.
That fitting has a tapered side and a parallel thread side. Gaskets or copper washers are to be installed only with parallel thread. On tapered threads (or fittings) the thread has to seal as it continues to expand as it goes in. The only thing that you can do to the fitting is a hydraulic sealant, which looks like a thread lock or a thread sealant. In case of sealing high pressure water use thread tape on tapered fittings. It is also common to use hemp threads (which look like blond ugly hair) mainly on high pressure diesel or high pressure steam
And I forgot to mention that I don't like to use tapered thread metal to metal especially if it is a used fitting. So if it leaks definitely get a hydraulic sealant. Should cost around 12 euro for a small bottle and will serve you for a lot of fittings since you only use 2 or 3 drops per fitting
Hey Andris, Mick here. What you call teeth on the bucket are actually the anchors for the teeth. You need new anchors and teeth that slide over the anchors.
I would bet that unknown control by the seat is to reverse the hydraulic controls, south hemisphere versus north. I mean, you be filling in the hole when you actually meant to dig it. 🙂 To get the live center out of the tail stock, I think you wind it in all the way, then the insert should pop out.
Wow, beautiful work, it looks really nice, the decals finished it off, the colors are so good! No CEE this weekend but Ants and Farmcraft gave us plenty!!!
@@Ants_Pants the reason why is cause hydraulics have very small ports and if a little peice gets in the system it will cause issues, instead use a hydraulic thread sealant
Hi Ants. You can make jams (e.g plummer inch jams from OBI, or diy wood jams), for rollers grease point tubes and add reinforcing gussets to protect it.
The Control Lever under the floor is to switch your boom and stick controls between ISO and SAE configurations without changing the hoses around. The boom and stick will operate like a backhoe under the SAE configuration. Most people leave a excavator in ISO configuration.
Thank you once again for this beautiful moment and everything you do, really fun and very interesting, thank again for sharing, have a nice week end 👍👍👍👍
The signal horns are a set of two (mirrored) with different frequencies because you're supposed to have them both mounted under the hood, sounding at the same time.
Really good job and I really like the improved paintwork, like you say it would be beneficial with a roller cage or cabin. Hopefully the folks at Yanmar are watching this, you never know they might send you some freebies.👍
The track adjuster pins will be covered in grease so rust isn't an issue, but you could mig with stainless wire if you don't want rust. Easier than making a new piston. But since you did drill a new rod, can I suggest drilling in size stages rather than just 1 big drill bit.
That black handle you were not sure about is probably designed for extreme safety reasons. It would probably deploy a similar way the fast jet parachute would do. Just don't be afraid to pull it decisively with the full force implemented, though. Remember the safety always comes first ! Anyway and as usual I wish you the best from the bottom of my ❤, bro
Another great video, Andris. Some great fixes. Is that lever that does nothing a slew lock. To lock the machine from slewing or turning independently from the undercarriage
Could be? it was not hooked up to anything though, or it was rusted away, i have not been able to get a service manual for this unit and the parts catalog does not say anything about that thing.
DUDE YOU CAN HAVE A 5 HOUR VIDEO AN I WOULD BE STUCK TO MY CHAIR... THE STUFF YOU DO IS SOOOOO VERY INTERESTING.... YOU KEEP ME ON THE EDGE OF MY SEAT ALL THE TIME YOU DO WHAT YOU DO... YOU ARE A WIZARD OF ALL THINGS; IT DONT MATTER WHAT IT IS YOU CAN MAKE IT WORK IF NOT THEN YOU CAN SHIFT GEARS AN MAKE IT WORK ANYWAY... I WILL BE LOOKING FORWARD TO THE NEXT VIDEO AN THE NEXT ONE AN THE NEXT ONE AND AND AND ETC ETC ETC.... MAKES ME WANT TO DO A SUPER VIDEO WATCH OF ALL YOUR VIDEOS AT ONCE... BLESSINGS & AS ALWAYS BE HOPE FILLED F-R-A-N-K-I 🦾🦾🦾🦾🦾🦾🦾🦾🦾🦾🦾🦾🦾🦾🦾
My girl always says I can watch you vid every saturday morning before we do some cleaning together.. Let's just say I was not much of a help today!! Kudos my man!
