Your a legend! The local lock company are trying to charge me $300 to do this (not including price of latch). Your video made me realise that even though I'm 35weeks pregnant I can do this myself. I got the cover off with my dough scrape! Many thanks boss for posting this!
Great video, thanks! Worked perfectly for me. For anyone with the same issue - I bought both an M7 and M8 bit and the (more common) M8 worked perfectly for me on my 2010 Polo. Getting the plastic trim removed was quite a task and it really feels like you’re breaking it, but it does come off safely with some force and alarming noises. Also note - after plugging in the new part to test it, it didn’t respond to any input on the key fob or door switch, so I nearly gave up - however it did work when I used the actual boot handle. So now it’s fitted and works fully now with the key fob too. Thanks again!
Firstly, great video! This really helped me to diagnose the same issue as you had - the continuity and voltage checks were both fine. Just commenting on this in case it helps anyone out in the future. Removing my boot lock mechanism required using an M8 (not an M7) spline bit which is much more likely to be included within a comprehensive socket set.
Thanks for this. I managed to replace the boot lock using your tutorial the part you recommended for under £25. I dread to think what the garage might have charged me! Much appreciated.
It seems to be. I prised the old lock apart and the failure point in mine was the brushes in a little electric motor that operates the lock though a series of plastic gear wheels.
I wonder if there is a website that shows the timeframe to replace various parts because when you go to the shop they want at least an hour for everything :) It would be nice to know the real time for the things
There are various websites and apps out there that give estimated times, but I don’t know how they compare with official VW estimates, also the hourly rate varies widely between garages.
It appears this issue persists in newer models as well. Just this morning my 2019 polo started having this exact problem. I'm going to see if this solution works later this week.
I have question regarding this, did the faulty bootlock messed with your indicators and things I closed my boot hard then my hazards came on on my dash it's shows my boot is open even tho it's closed can a faulty bootlock do that
Not on mine. It might be something to do with the alarm setting or activating. Some cars have a feature where if the car thinks it has been in an accident, the doors are automatically unlocked and the hazards activated but I would be surprised if that was fitted to this generation of Polo. Good luck sorting the problem
Hi ! I got the same issue since 4 years… I’ve tried to replace both the emblem and the lock itself, working for 1 weeks and the same… But for me it doesn’t work when it’s cold / humidity, so approximately for 6 months out of twelve… So I know that it works but why humidity is a problem I can’t figure it out… 😢
That’s a strange one. Maybe you have a bad connection in the wiring. You could try some switch cleaner, or maybe gentle close the connectors with a screwdriver to get a tighter fit.
@Tech Stuff - Cars Hi there! I'm after advice, I saw this video and believed this was the same issue with my 2012 Polo. I purchased a new boot lock, identical to yours including the same serial number that was listed on it. However, this doesn't seem to have been a fix. I've just purchased a multimeter and have tested all the connections on both the emblem and the boot lock itself and can't find any current flowing at all. Where would my next step potentially be? I've previously tried looking at the fuses, although I wasn't able to narrow it down to a specific fuse due to the number of diagrams that were so generic for VW as a whole. I'm thinking this is between either a fuse issue, or a wiring loom issue if you have any advice? Thank you!
It’s hard to say. Make sure the car is “alive” when you are looking for voltage, that is to say turned on and alarm deactivated. The emblem is just a switch so you should see continuity (close to zero ohms resistance) when you pull on the lever with the multimeter connected across its terminals. If there is no voltage at the locking mechanism end then hopefully it’s just a fuse that’s blown rather than damaged wiring. From what I can see online Fuse 48, under the steering wheel probably controls the boot actuator and central locking, so if your central looking is good and fuse is ok, tends to steer towards a break in the wiring.
@@techstuff-cars Really appreciate the response! I will re check the fuses. I had the ignition on, just not the engine. I must say diagnosing electrical faults is rather new to me, although I'm not a stranger to picking up tools in general so it may a case of a few hours reading. I did find it pretty difficult to get both multimeter probes onto the cabling, it felt like the contact was very minimal if any. I must correct myself as well; this is my partner's car not mine. She's just told me last night that the car was previously rear ended, and it was intermittent when she bought the car, then packed up a few weeks afterwards. The accident happened before she had the car, so I don't have any details on the damage and so on.
@@Stealthzion the car doesn’t need to be running, just the ignition on so you know the control modules are awake. If the car has had rear end damage starts to sound like wiring could be an issue. You tend to get failures where there are connectors, look for corrosion on pins, or where cables are constantly flexed, like where the cable goes into the hatchback door from the car body. Also see if there is any unusual insulation tape on the wiring where someone has maybe patched up some collision damage. Good Luck
I got it from EBay, car spares direct www.ebay.co.uk/itm/164488203531?fits=Car+Make%3AVW%7CModel%3APolo&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item264c42cd0b:g:PfAAAOSwaYVfn9Vr&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAAA4AsBjFASvcMk1QLIuDWR%2Bsnx9mINO1HhxFt42xvHo7WdXA2ahxHXdp8Au6hFSa6FSwrOtZj%2Fl5C%2FdLPMA8psafjxy5MxQtKdBjuv5qLDa2MYhiqM3tyOg6tRgOHe7JullaP%2BTLdy8nW%2FIwnBSJgFLha7z59dft1M3VQpmT6hWQ%2FnqzG7b%2BRe8PyfKJfcKY1pseL5WPzohgn5B8Sx%2B6tFXeEn24fHepBfb6GUR4B%2BDhzQ8fJMJpoRC93y0SAK7By4Qzp7lDZD2zY5y4cItIUY66tp%2BYfib1QQk4LDs%2Bm8Til1%7Ctkp%3ABFBMlJPWuYtg
If you watch the video carefully, you can open the boot by putting the key or a thin screwdriver into the slot on the plastic inner boot liner and then flicking the lever that’s inside. It’s helpful to have someone outside the car lifting the boot while you do this. Hope that helps
I have a similar issue with my 61 plate but my boot makes a weird noise when I push the release button and i have to close it a few time for it to stay closed any advise on what could be the issue?
If you hear a noise then it sounds like the lock motor is turning. The motor has some gear wheels made out of plastic. It is possible that the teeth have worn and the mechanism is skipping when you try to operate the lock. Another possibility is that the lock and catch on the body work have become misaligned. Check that the rubber seal around the boot has not become loose or is sticking up anywhere. If the lock is misaligned, loosen the lock bolts that I show in the video and you have a little bit of play that’s you can move the lock around before you tighten it up
@techstuff-cars apologies for the late reply I kinda forgot I wanted to sort this but I suppose I have just gotten used to not daring to open the boot. If the gears have worn away is it an easy fix? Thanks for your help
Get access to the boot space from inside the car by folding the rear seats down. There is a small slot in the plastic cover of the boot lid, just above the lock mechanism. Use a small screwdriver, or even the ignition key, to flick the lever inside the slot while someone operates the boot handle from outside. I cant recall if you need to move the lever to the left or the right ! you can see the slot in the cover in my video. Good luck
Hi, if you get into the boot by putting down the back seats you will find there is a small slot in the interior panel of the hatch. Put a thin screwdriver or even your ignition key into the slot and flick the lever while pushing upwards on the hatch and it will open.
On the four wire plug, two of the wires had +12V. Make sure the car ignition is turned on. I took the old lock apart, there is a gearbox and a small electric motor inside. The brushes were burnt out on the electric motor.
@@talhamohammed781 I don’t recall now. One may have been a ground. You may be able to find a wiring diagram online, search for “installing a boot light in a VW Polo”, they have posted a diagram on their website
@@techstuff-cars Hi there! I'm after advice, I saw this video and believed this was the same issue with my 2012 Polo. I purchased a new boot lock, identical to yours including the same serial number that was listed on it. However, this doesn't seem to have been a fix. I've just purchased a multimetre and have tested all the connections on both the emblem and the boot lock itself and can't find any current flowing at all. Where would my next step potentially be? I've previously tried looking at the fuses, although I wasn't able to narrow it down to a specific fuse due to the number of diagrams that were so generic for VW as a whole. I'm thinking this is between either a fuse issue, or a wiring loom issue if you have any advice? Thank you!
@@techstuff-cars It's not duration but rather use, the Polo is used for school runs with the boot opened every time at both ends. Plus there is a little luck of course.
@@M896 Must be a big issue for VW as I’ve had nearly 100,000 views of this video. When I took the old one apart it looked like the brushes had gone on the motor inside the lock rather than the plastic gears failing. Since I made the video, I see some “branded” clone parts are available now from the likes of Ridex, they have a 24 month guarantee of many of their parts, so maybe better quality?
