You don’t need to grind anything down, you just need to shoot it. Mine was so stiff I couldn’t rack it without pressing it against a surface and using my body weight. I racked it against the table till it loosened up then lubed it and fired 200 rounds through it. It works fine now.
The polymer part of the slide contact area, and the drop in rail modules that come with the kit absolutely need to be polished by hand with some really fine grit sandpaper (I use 2000-3000 grit). Not trying to remove any material, just get a super fine finish. Also, your gonna want to hammer down the ears on your rear rail with a brass punch. Fold them down on each side so that they are parallel with the edge of the polymer frame. Tactical Toolbox has a video explaining this, check it out its on his personal page. If you do that, I guarantee you will have zero malfunctions. This isn't AR building. Pistols are a whole different beast and way tighter tolerances. You think a P80 is difficult to fit everything right on the first try? Sheeeeeit wait til you do a 1911.
this video was my last resort before giving up on my build, I left excess material on my front piece near rails and it was causing and issue with it going into battery, also polished/sanded my plunger and now it runs like a champ. super thankful to you for providing this information.
Late to the party here, but if you sharpen knives, a high grit diamond stone is great for this. They're nice and flat so you'll never have to worry about accidentally going too deep in one spot of the rail
Whatever works best! This method is what works the best for me and has proven to be the quickest. But for those not comfortable with a dremel the stone definitely works.
Hey man can you tell me what kind of high grit diamond stone you used for this job? I bought the wrong crap on amazon, went cheap and paid for it. It had very little effect. Any advice greatly appreciated.
I'm gonna try this out. I learned real fast that this build is more involved than just what the instructions tell you IF you want the weapon to operate correctly.
I thank you, honestly just needed to hear it from the opinion of someone learned about P80s. Just built a GGP warfighter and it was sticking and had dead trigger. Slide was riding too low and rails were too wide and thick. Took my dremmel and now it’s smooth as glass. Also I took the dremmel to the crusiform on the trigger to round off the back lol cuz I’m crazy like that. Zev slide and trigger and GGP everything else. Range day went well. Don’t judge me bro.
No judgment here man! You have to be a bit OCD when it comes to these things. The smallest amount of detail makes a huge difference in the performance of the piece 🤘🏻
I lost spring to slide release and put together still, it was smooth and then I pulled apart so I can put the slide takedown and spring. But after it got really tight,and it slides on easier when trigger is cocked. But I greased it up little bit and it’s better, ima just tear the range up tomorrow pray for me sir 😂
me and my son went tru 4 frames to fish one my son purchase 2 Glock 19 one 26 and one 17 the first 3 went to the trash because of mistakes we did at the end we properly finish the Glock 17 with no problems at all he took it to the range and never had a problem shooting thanks for this videos hope that the people learning this skills will use them for good and not the bad remember every bad thing you do in life you or your family will pay for it soon or later that's life blessings to everybody 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
To be clear, there should be zero plastic before the rails, or the plastic should follow the lines of the rails? Also, have you ever measured the amount of material that needs removed from the sides of the rails when a slide is cerekoted? I would assume the thickness is twice the thickness of a layer of cerekote. Thanks for the video, and adding value to the P80 community.
Justin the best way to do it is to place your locking block in and pin it once you have the channel cut out. That way you can contour the polymer to the exact shape of the locking block. That will eliminate any chance of it catching. I haven’t measured it honestly. Each one is going to be different depending on the applicator. Cerakote is only supposed to be 0.001” thick when done properly. The issue you run into though is unintentional overspray. So it’s just one of those things that you need to work each one little by little until you get proper fitment. Another good way is valve lapping compound. It just takes a lot longer as it is achieved by multiple manual manipulation of the slide.
My front locking block rails wouldn't fit. Filed only the smallest amount of material from the inside to get them to fit. But my rear rails were canted. I gave it a 200 round break in, racked that sucker excessively lol. And finally filed a bit and sanded it smooth They're still slightly off but the action is smooth and the gun fires. I'm not super confident about shaving any more material off. Instead I get the copper anti seize lube and just fire that sucker for another few hundred rounds. Love these builds, hate how often there's some finnicky issue you're stuck fixing One other thing, not rail related. But stick a gen 4 ejector in the trigger housing asap. Just on all of these builds lol.
Adam Davis ya absolutely man! Instead of using copper coat, you can get some lapping compound. It will help speed up the process! Sounds like you’ve just about got it licked though 🤘🏻 we wouldn’t be building them if there wasn’t some sort of modifications needed! Gotta keep it interesting.
@@gledhillcustoms4659 I'll grab a lapping compound for future builds in mind and try it out I just have always used the copper anti seize since it's essentially glock factory lubricant. Thanks for your reply!
What about rear rails that sit too high but WILL not go lower into the frame? Even after removing some metal to get it to sit lower and properly line up with holes?
Using a dremmel on that rail is not what I suggest. Take the rail out and wet sand on a flat surface, then mirror polish the rail. I also fold 600 grit sandpaper to clean out the slide channels and finish with 1000-1500 grit.
With as out of spec as most of their rails are, you will be days with a wet stone. Time is money when running a business. This is the quickest and easiest way I’ve found
I have a few PF9SS I have a problem getting trigger housing to fit in between the rear rail which when installed makes the rear rail spread out so then the slide won’t align and stops the slide from being completely installed help thanx jay
Ok so ive got a problem om sure i figured it out, ive just gotta sand down dremel down the front begenning portion of my rail because they go at a slant down from barrel to magazine. If this sounds like it will work reply! I will reply tomorrow with an update
Bubbles that is a common issue. When the rails are cantered, it will cause the slide to hit the frame, or elsewhere. You can do it one of two ways. The slow process would be to pull the block from the frame, flip it upside down and run it back and forth on sand paper until flat. Checking fitment periodically. The fast way.. would be to use a dremel. Grind them down little by little, checking fitment as you go. Careful not to take to much though. Once you have it fitting properly, polish the rails with a 400 grit sanding drum.
I just got done building my first p80 G43 I’m having a issue with the slide... it doesn’t want to cock back 😞 any help or suggestions would be appreciated
They have resolved some issues, like this new locking block for the pf940sc they sent me that fit and ran perfect first try. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-U8c47j_c1x4.html My pf940v2 went together and ran perfect first try.
its not the P80s fault its because everyone is sourcing parts all over the place and all the different parts have different tolerances and with people cerakoting slides it will have issues even on a stock glock.
@@joesmith201212 this isn’t 100% true. My aftermarket lower and upper had no problem on a OEM glock. But had slide drag and problems when it was p80 lower and aftermarket upper
@@therealandrewcano well the issue is the cerakote layer is much thicker than the finish on a glock OEM parts. So you have to sand down some of the cerakote using diamond grit. That and the slide guides are not parallel you have to sand them down as well. Make sure to lube it and then rack it a couple HUNDRED times like I had to
Im having an issue with my rear rail hole and frame hole not letting the pin go thru. The rear frame hole seems like its just such a tiny bit too high. And idea how to fix it?
Any help with trigger not engaging to cock the pistol on the Girson frame. My upper will cock a p80, and a Glock factory 19 lower? Iused lonewolf lower parts and reinstalled the factory glock lower parts. What is pricing for similar work and a nice stipple and maybe ceracoat? Thanks Brian
Hey have you ever had the rear rails be to high and have to sand or file those down a bit? I'm getting ftf issues and alreasy polished feed ramp, changed from the 336 to gen 4 ejector polished my rails but I think my front LBS is too wide like you described in this video cause I can feel like thats where my slide is catching or not riding as smooth as it should be and hence causing the FTF but also was wondering if my rear rails could also be part of the problem. I'll start with front LBS and do what you recommend in this video and then test again.
Hey Brad, thanks for posting this video! I recently completed a P80-PF940Cv1 build and am mating it with a Rock Slide slide, barrel and recoil spring. The slide goes back about 60% and then binds up. Looks like barrel gets wedged between the locking block and the slide. I can force it further back and it will just stay open. I contacted P80 and they sent me a replacement locking block - which was somewhat of a waste as it was identical to the original one and changed nothing when I swapped them out. They followed up that I should lap the rails. Was wondering if you or anyone else has come across this before. I'll try polishing (lapping) the forward and rear rails but was wondering if there was something else going on. Thanks! Tom
Sounds like it is a tolerance issues between your barrel hood and slide. If the slide moves freely on the rails without the barrel installed it’s bot a rail issue. I would lightly sand the barrel hood as well as the inside of the slide where it Mates with the hood.
Iv had poor experience with Rock slides on my p80. Excessive wear on slide catch and poor tolerances! This was in 2021. Told them about it emailed etc..and they never resolved or reached out to fix the issues. Iv since switch do a different brand and over 2k rounds no issues.
Yo brother I’ve made more than a had full just wanna ask anyway just cuz I just seen one in my group but have not experienced it first hand. Front rail higher than rear of the same mail. (Wheelie) is it the same fix ? I’ve seen different videos saying different fixes just wanna confirm.
I’m having that problem right now but I think is the slide because I put another slide and it works just fine now with the new slide is very stiff I use sand paper for the inside of the slide and where the rails run and is a little better now but still the same I might just buy another slide
Will a Glock 19 gen 3 rack and fire if the rear rail in the frame is missing? They’re the two little pieces of metal on each side of the inside frame closest to the barrel. I think those only hold the slide along with the front rails but I’m not sure if they’re necessary for the gun to cock and fire without it damaging the gun.
I've done alot of builds and fitment sucks sometimes... if u have to start grinding locking blocks... DON'T... source a different slide. U can grind all u want, but you will always have problems. Some slides/uppers work well with P80 and some just do NOT. Same with every other 80% brand.
Would the rails needing what you explain cause lock up in battery? Everything feels super smooth on my p80 but when chambering a snap cap or round the slide sticks in battery. Need to whack it to break it free. Haven't actually put a round down range through because of what's happening and don't trust it like this.
I’m having feeding problems when I go to rack my slide as if I’m trying to clear out my whole magazine just by racking it a bullet gets slightly stuck. I noticed the more I keep doing it it gets better. Does it just needs to be broken in or is this a major issue?
My question is about the RRM and and TMH. The TMH is not fitting into the P80 frame. Is seems like the bottom of the TMH needs to be shaved off quite a bit in order to “drop in” the RRM fits just fine, so if I shaved the TMH (below the holes for pin) would that affect the functionality/reliability of the gun? Any answers are appreciated.
Help me out pls. My slide won’t hold still and one of my rails might be to high for my slide I think. Also my housing trigger is bent too far out so it hits my slide¿¿???? I ordered a new trigger for the housing. But still need help
I just bought a p80 19 but when I shoot it doesn't reload I have to be reloading every bullet I shoot, and there are times I shoot and it double fires. I hope i can get some help thank you and greetings
great video. i just built my first p80. my only issue is that when i put my slide on, i have to depress the slide lock to get it on. it then functions fine. how can i resolve this? i pushed down on the spring real hard with a punch to see if i could get it to work better, but no luck. any suggestions would be appreciated. the spring is sitting in the channel flush.
cool, Im having all sorts of problems I pounded the front slide rails in and now I cant get it out. any suggestions? ( I threw it in freezer overnight ) So I contacted POLY80 they told me to take some photos. I ended buying 2 of them just to get a fresh start and did the same exact thing. marred it all up trying to get it out. looks like I need to get it right before pounding it in. I saw most shouldn't be that tight at first. see some videos they slide in and out by just pushing it in by hand. the front blocks are just .034 to big which makes it just enough to get stuck. which How would I grind them smaller to fit? Its not the rails its the sides.
Joe jeans freezer won’t help. Some of them are pretty tight. Before installing them, make sure there are no polymer burrs on the inside from drilling the pin holes. The excess material will cause them to bind. If it’s clear and still tight, sand a small amount off of each side.
@@gledhillcustoms4659 thanks I haven't touched it since then. I lost interest . So I just bought a Glock 19. and a sig p320 X compact. I have all the parts. I suppose I can get motivated again. Ammo is hard to find no too. Hey love that custom work you do! wish I had the talent like that! especially the stippling. you must be a good tattoo artist too!
You can also just loobe the crap out of it. Then Rack the slide 1000 times. It smoothes it self out. the channel I have a 80 grit sanning wheel for my dremmal that makes the perfect cut.
My slide on a 940sc build leans to one side and is HARD to rack because one side on the rails is higher. Should I try and grind it down? My concern is even after leveling them out the gap between the frame and rail will be larger than the other side. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Hard to say without seeing it. But if it is setting cantered then it will cause issues. If you don’t want to mess with grinding the rail, you can try some valve lapping compound on the higher side. See if you can get the rail to mate to the slide as is.
My slide starts to raise a bit when it hits the rear rails but then it catches around the trigger housing and it looked like the housing wasn’t sitting fully on top of the polymer of the rear rails any suggestions?
@@gledhillcustoms4659my back rails dont match the hole i drilled in the rear part of my reciever. Can you help me with this? please email me at Damianfg1818@gmail.com
@@gledhillcustoms4659my back rails dont match the hole i drilled in the rear part of my reciever. Can you help me with this? please email me at Damianfg1818@gmail.com
@@juanfuentes7524 look through the hole you drilled and you will be able to see where the rail needs to be adjusted on each side. Typically it’s the bottom of the hole on the rail. Take your dremel and oblong the hole. Make sure to go vertically and not horizontal.
One of my locking block holes is showing metal can’t get pin through. Doesn’t seem to make sense because when I put jig together the holes good and you can see the metal in the way. Anyone see this before?
You need to take the rails out and use a small round file to remove the metal. DO NOT REDRESS THE PLASTIC HOLES. Make all the changes to the metal rail holes, one hole at a time.
@@gregc9457 ok that’s how I did it and seems to work. I did find a fix for the rear rails that universal. I should probably make a video I don’t see anyone doing it… 🤔 thanks man
The problem is everyone thinks and tries to do one super cheap... so a lot of us... yes me im guilty... i would wait for the different parts to go on sale... i waited for the barrel to sell cheap ... the slide part kit i waited to get it cheap so got some made in china crap... the lower parts kit i waited for it to be on sale too... so we end up with a cheapo Frankenstein glock... of course issues will arise. And if you say only buy real glock parts... um i can't find geniue glock parts kits anywhere
Gledhill Customs I looked down the mag well for that and he grinding starts before contact is made with the SP. I will watch your vid and subbed. Thank you for the pointer though, I’m 1200.00 in and can’t turn back now 😭. I could swear the grind is right where it would make contact with the rear rail. Polished, reset it, and inspected with no change.
@@gledhillcustoms4659 BRAVO SIR!!!!! I cannot thank you enough for your help today!!!! I shall pass your channel info out like party favors. This was a great cause of stress for me the last few days and you helped someone you don't even know. Sub for Life.
2011 SHO Kona if it’s happening before the SP, check for wear marks around the hood of the barrel, as well as where the barrel meets the slide (where the striker protrudes) there could be excess Cerakote in those areas causing the friction. The nest way to eliminate issues is to strip everything down to just the frame and slide. If the slide runs freely across the rails with no internals, it eliminates the rails. Then just keep working up from there 🤘🏻
So I’m having an issue with my p80 I’m building currently if there is anyways I can email you and send you a video of what I mean that would be appreciated
@iPac9mm i did fix the issue by using a sharpening stone. make sure have the pin on the rear rail installed without the trigger housing. then have all 4 rails lay flat on the sharpening stone to even it.
New build. Slide stops 1/8 inch before the rear rails. It will not rack and go into battery. Appears to want to install at an angle. Maybe something to do with the trigger arm that sticks up? I've built several AR's and have tool skills but I don't understand this problem. Am I wasting my time because this is a piece of shit? I would appreciate your input. Thanks.
If flip the pistol over and look through the grip you will be able to see if the fob is hitting on something. Hard to say without seeing pictures or a video. Is your safety plunger installed correctly and moving freely?
@@gledhillcustoms4659 thanks for the quick response. I figured it out. Both rail groups were too proud and the back rail was also too wide. Also, the polymer on the back part of the trigger group was proud. I would consider this a 50% build, not an 80%. The average guy (or gal) would have destroyed the pistol or complained to the seller. After my several AR builds this is a disappointment. Not in the quality of the materials or finish, but in the fitment issues. The parts were clearly hodgepodged together without consideration of the finished product. My reseller was Thunder Tactical. They have excellent AR products, but I don't know if I'd be willing to buy another "T19" from them. I'd call and chat with them but their customer service manager is a worthless tool. Thanks again.
Lester Murphy Sr. Man I’m sorry to hear that! I haven’t heard of them personally, but Sounds like i will be steering clear of them! Look up MDX Arms and JSD Supply. Both very reputable sources, and great to deal with. Glad you didn’t give up on it though!! Well done sir!
@@gledhillcustoms4659 I cant get my slide to go on my frame. I believe the barrel is hitting the lbrs. And causing my recoil spring to protrude out the front. Gen 3 g26. ??? Please
David Gomez if the spring is protruding from the front, Generally the spring is catching on something. Break it down and make sure the channel is completely flush with the front blocks. You don’t want anywhere for the spring to catch.
