@@steveo6685 I’m running about 14 business days on my turn around time, but that being said.. it has slowed down a bit going into the holidays. Shoot me a message on Facebook or Instagram and I can show you pictures for reference as well as get you a quote.
I did this to my P80 like you said and it worked great on one, another one i got so so.. Ended up measuring where that fin sits side to side and found it off just a couple thousands, tweaked it and worked like a charm.. I guess depending on where you get the trigger bar they all might not be as precise as they should be. Black magic marker also helps find where and if its rubbing where it shouldnt.. Great video thank you.
Totally agree, you two and Jhonny Glocks put me in the game, str8 up! Marine Gun Builder, building tips excellent, Johnny Glocks for internals, and you for stippling and ect. Would recommend y'all three to anyone whom needs to know anything about glocks, and p80's.
I am so glad to see someone addressing this issue! I spent all day yesterday looking for a solution to this problem, but didn't even know what to call it. I pop onto youtube again today and this is the second video in my feed! My build will thank you forever! :)
You #Jhonny Glocks and this guy!!! Would be the people I would recommend for anything about building glocks or p80's. Plus your a fellow Marine, I got in the game late, but I'm here now while we still can. HOOYAH!!!
This is the problem I'm having and have found only your video that addresses this issue. Thanks a bunch. I was ready to call the gunsmith cause I have literally changed every part in this thing to oem to fix this to no avail. Awesome video!
Great video bro. Just did my first build and had the same issue. I knew what was causing the drag and was about to buy a new plunger when your video popped up on my stream. Thanks for the tip
Very helpful, I couldn't figure out what was causing it to stick. Once you pointed out the problem area I put a bit of lube on a qtip and rubbed it on the safety plunger and trigger fin. That fixed the problem for now, in the past with another polymer80 build the problem went away after putting about 100 rounds through it. Thanks for taking the time to post this video.
Wouldn't one of those rounded stainless steel/titanium nitride safety plungers done just as well to fix an issue like that? Rock your glock sells them for 15-20
Thank you thank you thank you thank you. I couldnt figure out for the life of me, why i kept having this drag. Ur trick worked. Im definitely going to be a new follower
I think what you’re doing with these videos and interacting with your community is absolutely amazing. You’re gonna grow quickly doing this and I for one am very appreciative of all of it. I’ve done a few builds now and I got the hang of it pretty well but in the beginning I wouldn’t have done it properly if it weren’t for you and MGB. Thank you both and keep up the great work!!
I have this exact issue. I used sandpaper to polish the fin. It does feel a little better, but I still need to polish that safety plunger a little bit. Thanks for the advice!
I had the problem with it get stuck and not going into battery. I was worried it might mess up my 80 but at this point it wasn’t working anyways. I did exactly what you said and now my build is smooth as butter. No more issues at all and haven’t had a malfunction since. Thanks for the information
I've been deburring/polishing the plungers on my Glocks since I got my first one 20 years ago. I bought it used and it had that exact problem (which is why the other guy sold it). Figured I would just start with a basic disassembly and cleaning and I had to fight the plunger to remove it. That one just got the 600 grit treatment but it worked fine.
I can't wait to try this. Sand and polish that trigger lip. I built a PSA dagger .40 and I was getting several failures to feed and weak strikes that didn't fire the round. Thanks for this!
This is one thing they changed on the gen4 Glocks, Can also use a couple different grits of sandpapers then put a polish on it with the Flitz, then should be good to go. We all should share the know, like the ARMY says, adapt, innovate, overcome.
I’ve only had this issue on a few cerakoted slides. I ended up polishing the hell out of all the metal in the upper and lower parts kits and racking the slide about 1000 times. If that doesn’t work on my pf8ss then I will give this approach a try. Thanks for sharing man.
Yup! Taking off some of shark fin material and rounding it a bit better did the trick for my pf9ss build. Also went ahead and cleaned up some burrs I noticed on the disconnecter that could have been contributing to the dragging to some extent. Super simple and easy fix. It’s like butter now. Thanks again!
I ran across two other issues with my build. They caused similar but different problems. First the recoil spring was rubbing on the u channel. Just running the spring in the channel it would catch one of the coils every so often. Further filing and polishing fixed that. The fix was very subtle. The second issue was the spring for the slide release. The spring didn't seem to seat as low as I expected. The part going in to thre
The frame didn't go deep enough and was hanging up on the recoil spring. I decided to shorten the bottom end until it seated. Come to find out it had a lip or edge on the bottom. I filed it off and the spring magically seated all the way and the problem was solved. In my experience stock Glock and aftermarket parts need need to be checked for burrs and rough surfaces. Do the twenty cent trigger job and you will see just how rough things can be. Now I do that first and every other build of mine has been smooth.
This solved exactly one of the issues I’ve been having! Thank you! Another question! The rear trigger assembly housing doesn’t want to lay flush to the rails; it wants to be half a mil higher to get the pin thru, and as a result has a bit of wobble, as well as making the extractor run slightly on the slide. Should I drill the rear assembly housing so it sits all the way flush with pin installed and jb weld it into the chassis? Will jb work? Any other fix?
IMPORTANT INFO: BEFORE REMOVING MATERIAL!!!! Ensure your firing pin safety spring is properly aligned when installed. When the spring is slightly off and doesn’t go into the hole in the center it will cause slide drag. Once you remove material it could cause problems when the safety is reinstalled properly.
@Gledhill Customs I'm having this issue I've tried two different safety plungers. I'm going to see if this will help out. If this doesn't fix this issue would you have any other recommendations for me to look at that could be causing "slide drag"?
I use Flitz Polish on a old sock with a drill on my safety plunger. I would not grind on it. The hardening on glock parts is very thin. I have had the same problem a few times and l think the best fix is to remove the rear rail and the point where the trigger bar and the rail touch take a diamond file to that point and remove a VERY SMALL AMOUNT OF MATERIAL!!! It might take a few times of reinstall and test but you can't add material back.
So I’ve got a question for you not sure if you can help me .. when I dry fire my battery goes back smoothly but when i put bullets in magazine sometimes it goes back into battery and sometimes it doesn’t why is that ? I’ve never fired it at all .. do I need to keep smoothing my rails out plus my plunger as well ? I’ve already have smooth it out but maybe I need to do it more ..thanks so much in advance
Hi im looking to buy a oem Glock Extractor Depressor Plunger+Spring+loaded Bearing for my p80 build but I cant seem to find what the difference is between LCI & Non-LCI
I have a question about having a gap in the front end between the slide and frame and being able to see the guide rod pretty well. Is it the parts I’m using or did I just put it together wrong? Thank you
G23 .40s&w completed stainless ported rock slide w/ a silencer co threaded barrel on a polymer 80 lower w/ (what I hope) are OEM parts having failure to feed; you think it’s the trigger connector? Trigger housing? Or the safety plunger like in your video?
what if the slide sticks when recoiling one a round has been chambered and the firing pin releases? It sticks when initially recoiling after a round has been spent.
Omg. I was about to give up on my build. I think this did the trick. After doing it it goes into battery every time I have the trigger pulled!!! Next, testing on the range.
so i have a question, i was shooting my p80 g17 build and after i would shoot a shot the slide wouldn’t fully go into battery BUT it was picking up rounds, i think i was encountering this so im going to do this to my safety plunger, but are there any suggestions on what else it could be if it doesnt work right still?
Good morning Sir I have a problem with my slide stopping when I rack it back it works fine without the trigger and housing but when I put the trigger and housing in and the slide gets stuck.. It goes all the way back but stops about when returning forward..again it racks fine with no trigger and housing..
What if you magazine falls out while shooting? Using glock mags and pmags. Swapped out spring and button, changed grip(one handed). I even let someone else shoot
I'm having this issue with psa dagger frame (glock gen 3 clone) and an alpha shooting sports complete slide. Do you think it's being caused by same issue? Haven't shot it yet at all just want to get it right before I even attempt.
Hey dude, this is Jake from Tacticool! My pal is using your videos to fix his P80 and he sent me a link to your video! I was like "bro! I know that dude!"
Built my p80 almost perfect parts came lubed shot it n it jammed trying to load the next round I took it apart n used mink oil for my boots on it with a q tip and melted it into the recoil spring lubed the rails and it slides like butter now no scraping noises just smooth sliding
Another reason to slide binds is the slide takedown leaf spring. I've been trying to figure out why mind is binding for a few days, tried everything in these videos and nothing worked the stupid leaf springs sticking up just a little tiny bit, removed it filed it down and put it back in now it sits flush and it runs smooth.
Thanks man, this is exactly my problem and I would've never guessed the cause of it without this video. The first part you mention grinding down, mine doesn't really have any lips and it appears to be machined in a very particular way. Do you still recommend grinding it down or should I just try to polish the plunger first and see if that fixes it? If you do recommended grinding it still which surfaces do I go after? All of them? The front? The back? Appreciate the help
You can start on the plunger and see if that helps. If it does then problem solved. When working on the fin on the trigger bar, you don’t want to remove any material from the very top. It can cause the bar to pass the plunger without depressing it. So just work the back side of it smooth and polish the tip
Good job bruh appreciate it info.. I actually had that problem on my p80.. builds usually disappoint people after the first built with hella issues.. but everything jus needs a bit of tweaking not tweakes lol.
Hey the plunger may be getting stuck because the OD (outside diameter) my be oversize or rough. Also the slide may have cerakote buildup or just need filing and polishing so the plunger will go smoothly up and down in its hole. File and polish the plunger hole.
I’m having the same issue with a P80 build but, I’m getting a dead trigger (sometimes). I depress the trigger, hold it, rack the slide and sometimes it goes into battery, sometimes the trigger won’t reset. It’s just dead, stuck to the rear. I’ve put the slide on a Glock 17, it functions fine, put a Glock 17 slide on the P80 frame, it functions fine. Only having issues with the P80 slide on the P80 frame.
The only slide drag I have is when I am clambering a new round and dont pull the slide back far enough could this be cause by the same thing? I have no drag with an empty gun...
Will this problem also cause a off center light primer strike as well ????? I’m having this problem as well as off center light primer strikes. I honestly don’t think I need a stronger recoil spring assembly or and a new striker assembly.
Great video. I am having the same issue. I’m new to the the builds and kind of need a more in depth step by step process. Didn’t know if you were available to chat. Let me know. Thank you
Hey bro for some reason my spring looks different from the one on yours on your springs they look more rounded edges and mines look like sharp could I be a problem
Have you ever had the issue of when you pull the trigger and rack the slide it locks back without a mag in it? Doesnt happen every time but still.... Its not supposed to.. any info would be greatly appreciated.
thanks for the insight i just used a file and a drill i guess i did ti this may because i have a project a work that i use a drill and file also so again thank for this helpful videp
Hey brother thank you so much for this valuable information truly appreciate you. Unfortunately I do have some separate questions I'm building my first Glock19 Gen 3 clone from a combat armory build kit . And let me tell you it's been kicking my ass . I just recently thought that I have finally gotten it to a good and safe functioning performance after tweaking all the lil issues I've ran across but when I when to cycle some ammo manually it has proven me wrong and I am back at square one scratching my brain as to what it could be that's incorrect. So it's not loading nor chambering any ammo it almost looks as if it's getting stuck on the trigger bar is that command like maybe the trigger bar isn't at the right angle and needs to be bent back idk . If you send me an email I can do a quick video and send it to you to give you more of an idea . Like I said this is my first build using build kit from combat armory gen 3 g19 complete build kit. . please if you can help me send me a response with an email to send you a video or maybe a video call if your not to busy. I'm thinking it's either going to be my trigger bar or maybe my extractor but I just don't know . Hopefully you can bless a young and enthusiastic beginner with some wisdom and knowledge . If not that's also understandable and thanks for your videos they are well received and viewed much respect and appreciation respectfully, Joe G.
Love you content, im having a issue im hoping you can shed some light on. I have a G22 gen 3 and i just bought a replacement slide (rockslide usa) and uppers kit and tried it out on my glock lower and its not going into full battery or ejecting properly. Im still waiting for my p80 kit so i can try it out on it but im assuming it should work on my trusty glock as that gun function flawlessly. Ive noticed my glock upper is nice and smooth while my cerakoted rockslide is almost like a fine grit sandpaper in texture. Any input would be very helpful thanks again and im definitely going to subscribe to your channel.
Steven Gleave chances are it’s excess Cerakote in the rail ports. The easiest fix is an $8 tube of valve lapping compound from autozone. It’s meant to create a metal on metal fit on the valves in motors. It works great for clearing the excess Cerakote out and mating the rails to the slide 🤘🏻
Great video, I've got one for you! My trigger bar is dragging on the slide just in front of the safety plunger and marking the slide clearly! Fix? Suggestions? Any information would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
Same issue here. Even tried bending it a little too center it on the plunger, lowering it away from the slide, but still rubs. If I take off any more material, afraid it will not function correctly.
@@HomeBrewedVapesReviews I sanded the hump on trigger bar with 1200 grit sandpaper, seemed to work on mine! Lube slide rails and frame rails also? Mine seems ok after a bit of dry fire, slide cycling.
I have a similar problem. Mine seems to be catching on the barrel. I've located a couple of the problem spots and sanded them down lightly but it's still doing it. Barrel doesn't recess all the way into the slide unless I drop the slide hard. Slide is cerakoted so I'm trying to feel it out and see where it all touches so I can polish it up a bit. I'm aware that tolerances can be very tight when using different parts from different manufacturers so I somewhat prepared for it. Any ideas as to what else I can do to remedy the problem?
bro mine is doing the same thing locking up before the safety plunger I think its catching the barrel or the slide not the plunger if you flip your p80 upside down and use a flashlight on a table phone a with phone you can see it sticking on the slide or barrel not sure, Bought a new sanded down and polished one even after trying to sand down the trigger bar the trigger bar is still sticking on my slide/barrel after doing all this and my channel is smooth as butter just got a oem Glock trigger w bar same problem :( racked slide 500-1000 times and its still sticking I have a Patmos slide and barrel is that why?