Today may not be the best. But next day will have new ideas to make it better. Thanks for the ideas. Thanks you for testing and Thanks you for sharing.
4:32 This is where the vertical damper part of the FL system is really helpful, rather than the rollers landing flat on top of the wall, the rollers will angle into it giving a much more natural recovery.
Actually, I don't agree with the term "vertical damper" since the arm movement itself doesn't act as a damper. In fact, the arm flexed and then adapt after being hit by the track wall. So I guess it's not a damper effect. Well, the original FL system may have that effect because all of the unit move together as a unity but still, I think it's more of a flexibility matter and not as a damper (imo). But I get what you mean anyway. Thanks man.
Yea, kinda hard to describe it really, imagine angling the car down front 45degree and the roller hitting the wall. And yea, I also agree "vertical damper" is not the right term, couldn't think what to call it at the time, I should have said the whole stay/roller assembly becoming like an inverted hikuo damper, I think that would have been more accurate. It's also interesting to see what a difference the size of rubber ring connecting the arms can do. I think I know why people add turns to the rubber ring on their setups, they're probably using 17/19mm roller ring also, but put like 3-5 turns on it to make it stiffer/shorter, but I guess it depends on how you cut the arms that dictates which size rings you can use or what you can do with them.
Yes, I kinda get the idea after you explained it that way. Hehehe. Yup, I tried to turn the rubber a few times but still the 13mm rubber is better than 19mm (in this experiment). It's true the shape of the arm will also determine the movement. It also affected by the stopper position, spring placement, etc. There are so much thing to be tested, but I'm glad at least this system can be useful somehow. I was just playing around with leftover FRPs at my place. Hahahahah.
Wahh kemajuan teknologi di tamiya 4wd semakin canggih yah. Baru tau bamper bisa macam hidrolik gitu heheeheh. Dulu maen tamiya asalah speed kenceng aj udah seneng. Bagus2
Mudah untuk dicontoh dan sangat berguna mas bro... Pernah lihat video orang jepang bikin FL SYSTEM,RUMITNYA MINTAAAA AMPUN BROOO... Kuuuenceng,tpi stabil... Thanx bro... Karna saya akan memulai main tamiya lagi...
Bang...saran dong... Saya mau BARU mulai main lgi... Untuk pemula tapi pengen yg sedikit kenceng? Model yang pas apa ya? Saya posisi di surabaya,barangkali ada toko rekom di surabaya...hehehe...thanx bang
jd pangen main ginian lg. wajah2 veteran masih bakalan kelihatan gak ya d wahana-wahana begini? salam dari generasi tahun 96'. hehehe jd berasa jompo nyebutnya..... wakakakakak
Mach satu tingkat diatas hyper.. era saya dlu belu hyper dash sekitar Rp.15000 dan mach dash Rp.30.000.. di tahun 1999 s/d 2001 lah,saya menggeluti tamiya.. salam.. 👋
Lu yakin itu harga tahun 1999? Aku main tamiya waktu masih di indo saat sd kelas 6. Itu tahun 92. Harga hyperdash dan lemans kira kira itu 15000 dan 20000.
Trus ada yg di modif. Pake platinum. We all know gold is best conductor. Hyperdash sampe kencanggggg banget. Bahasa cina medan nya di "khun" (di kumparan), itu nya di rebound.
Pk nizn battery peak power nya bisa sampai 1.85 volt. Eneloop nimh mah kelaut saja. Nizn juga lebih cepat discharge nya. Voltage nominal juga 1.6 -1.7v dan jadi tetap lebih op dari rechargeable battery yg umumnya yg 1.3v sampai 1.5v. Tapi ya itu. Mahal.. lebih mahal dr nimh dan nicd.
Hi Roscoe. Great vid! You observe that the cornering speed with the FL system is slower, as the rear rollers would extend further away during cornering. What I do notice in your final review is that your car points inwards (towards the inside of the corner) when the arm extends. Doesn’t this actually aid your car in cornering faster? Enjoy watching your channel btw! Keep it up!
Yes. I made a mistake. Well, actually before my friend made an analysis about this, I still believe that if I put my roller closer to the tires, then the cornering process is faster. But, it turns out that through calculation, the car took a longer distance if you put the roller closer to the tires compared if you put some distance to it. My friend who can understand Japanese language told me that there were also some kind of debate in Japan regarding this matter. I haven't made any comparison yet, but my perspective had been changed through my friend explanation. I also noticed that lots of Japanese racer car don't put their roller too close to the tires. Thank you for watching!
Roscoe Channel Indeed! The car taking a shorter distance travelled (the smaller radius of the turn) by increasing the distance between the front-rear rollers is another manner of looking at cornering speed.
Roscoe Channel I’ve been in the same boat as you. Told to set the car in a certain manner but was never given a broken down analysis to justify the set up. So I started asking LOTS of questions. Haha.
Hi Roscoe , please can you do video talk about aftermarket parts? teach us how to identify aftermarket parts(copy parts) from "original" tamiya parts. Can it be use for race? do all racer use after market parts? Thank!
Cara bikinnya Pake cara gampang aja bang Ane bisa Coba" pake karet 13mm 2 buah kalo gini kan masih dinilai rumit karena banyak Bagian saat pemotongannya Kalo ini gk perlu dipotong hanya saja Melebari lubang 3mm Kayak pivot tapi lebih Lentur Bisa kayak "patah" lebih sadis
sayangnya dulu hp masih jadul gabisa bikin vidio haha, coba bang dinamo ganti yg model diamond tapi dalemnya kalo bisa ngilik sendiri terus magnet ganti yg silver, ban make yg busa biar nempel ama aspal lintasan, dijamin super ngebut hahaha
Hehehe. Kalo sekarang, karena acuan peraturannya ke aturan resmi Jepang, nggak boleh dikilik lg mas. Jadi cukup beli dinamo merk Tamiya aja, baru kemudian diolah lagi. Tapi gak boleh dikilik lg sekarang. 😁 Ayo main lagi mas 👍
hahaha masa si stik karetan begiti yg dipake ditamiya ga ada yg order? ya maklum bang mengenang masa dulu lagi rame"nya kan jadi flshback😁 lanjutkan terus bang eksperimennya, coba" ganti dinamonya bang biar kenceng kan buat ekspersimen doang lumayan bang buat tontonan para netijen hahahaha, percobaan aja lagian bukan buat turnamen bang 😄
mantap reviewnya, tp di 6:28 mobil patah yah? ada solusi buat perbaikan gak bang? atau perkuatan supaya gak patah gitu..saya jg pecinta MS/MSL.. mudah sekali patah klo di buat suspensi
Itu patahnya setelah meluncur jauh banget sih dan nabrak tembok. Saya malah akan bingung kalau nggak patah. Hahaha. Sepertinya kalau pakai frame tengah akan lebih kuat. Tapi saya belum melakukan perbandingan.
Yg patah mobil yg tanpa underplate ya om? Mngkn solusinya kalo mau tanpa underplate bisa pakai reinforced gear cover... Cm agak ribet kalo mau ganti motor & gear... 🙄
Betul tanpa frame tengah. Hmm, mungkin juga sih. Saya nggak pernah pakai reinforced gear cover sih gan. Cuma memang, kali ini mobilnya mental dan meluncur jauh sebelum nabrak tembok. Mungkin wajar-wajar saja kalau patah. Tapi saya juga gak paham betul apakah faktor kelemahan mobilnya juga. Maklum, nubi MS. Hahahaha
Bang, klo depan belakang pake fl system bagus gak? Soalnya untuk track 5 jalur di japan pake fl depan blakang. Atw sliding depan, blakang fl.. Oh ya, di tggu tutor buat fl system untuk depan yah.. hehehe.. Nice chanel..
om tolong di bales yak, I use fl system too, but in front bumper, for back i use slide, tapi selalu klontang pake dynamo hyper dash break in, supaya ga klontamg gmn ya om?
Waduh, nggak bisa kasih jawaban nih saya masalahnya dimana. CO di slope, CO di LC, dll beda-beda juga penyebabnya. Beda layout juga beda setelannya. Coba konsul ke racer senior di tempat situ mungkin bisa dpt pencerahan gan.
Bang kasih saran dong..Punya saya kalo pake loncatan, susah turun nya..Paling tdk, harus 8-9 potong arena, baru bisa turun.Rem juga udah tebel..Padahal juga sloop bukan speed.. 🙏🏼
Wah, saya nggak main sloop tuh. Kalo di kategori sekarang, lompat 8-9 potong nggak berguna. Beda kelasnya gan. Race-race sekarang acuannya aturan resmi Tamiya Mini 4WD Japan. Jadi kategori sloop, nascar, dll nggak masuk. Bikin mobil baru aja gan pake setting jaman sekarang. Harus bisa lompat pendek tapi ngebut. 😁
+Roscoe Channel saya pengguna single shaft ,saya mau coba praktekin ilmu mas di super2 saya ,semoga mulus seperti mobil si mas hihihi ,terima kasih atas video video nya yg oke oke mas ...
Sebagian besar informasi dan trik sudah saya bagikan di video-video saya. Saya sarankan untuk tonton video saya dari nomor 1 sampai terakhir. Banyak sekali info yang bisa didapat. Perhatikan baik-baik di setiap video. Jangan di skip, nanti biasa ketinggalan informasinya dan triknya. Dicicil aja videonya. Tonton tiap hari. Nanti lama2 bisa kok. Coba ditiru aja setting saya dulu
Nope. Coz the moving arm can adapt when it hits the track wall. But maybe u wanna put something just to cover the screw head. Just like I did in my Anchor bumper.
so u need to be an engineer to play tamiya nowadays it soo complicated i remebered back then that it was just soo simple and u just race without over thinking too much about the slope of the race track and the angles and all ...
you can still play it simple bro. Just assemble the kit and play it. But if you're up to some racing, then you need more effort. The point is you can enjoy Tamiya Mini 4WD in so many ways.
No sir you got it wrong. I'm an IT security analyst and play mini4wd. Hahaha. all these things happen because we play in more difficult track and naturally we want to use the best motor available, all this knowledge are needed because of that. It won't be fun if our tamiya always out of course in difficult track with powerful motor. So it just part of natural and logical consequences. We also can play it easy with plug and play part and have fun with friend, but of course not in difficult track with powerful motor. We always can choose how we want to play bro. It just hobby, just do what you want to do with your way and have some fun :).
