I have a two-story house with an old brick chimney extending 3-4' above the eaves; the plan was to lower PVC down inside it. I'm not sure how they planned to do it - that's a lot of pipe, heavy & awkward - but given the rooflines, the generally poor condition of the chimney, and the crappy weather that day, it was deemed too risky, and they went out through a wall instead. Just curious, how would you have done it? I can't imagine lifting probably 16' of PVC straight up and then lowering it inside the chimney.
@@DaddyBeanDaddyBean they wouldn't lift a whole 16ft piece up and down the chimney, the would use 2 8ft sections with a coupler in the middle. Drop in 1 of the 8ft'ers then hold it and put a coupler on it or put it on before lifting into position. That way all you have to do is clean and glue the other 8ft section to the coupler. With 2 people it's very easy
Dustin t, Yes. Easy basement connection. I'd have just used a 24 guage sheet metal reducer on the roof (8×4) to accept 4" pvc with a rubber boot or custom storm collar. I don't know what he paid for that " kit" ...lol...but total material cost my way would be about $90.00 including bracing in the basement to support the 12-15 pounds. Breeze Mechanical.
Ain't no way some corregated plastic is expensive to the point where it's a "last result" sounds like that company is way upcharging an inexpensive product....
Lol...this guy is unresourceful at best. An 8×4 sheet metal reducing coupling costs about $25. My material cost whoud be $90 on a simple job like this.
Depending on the length of the B Vent, and whether it had any turns, I’ve ran the PVC up through the existing B Vent when swapping to the high efficiency appliances when putting a hole in the house wasn’t an option.
Same here I didn't think plastic could handle the amount of heat that a lot of gas furnaces or hot water heaters put out.. not to mention the residual chemicals that come off in the burn.
@@joeybebop Most modern boilers, water heaters, and HVAC furnaces have exhaust that is only mildly warm, probably only about 40°C or so (100 ish °F). They are just so efficient at extracting as much heat as possible from the burnt fuel that you don't need metal chimneys anymore.
@@richardmillhousenixon those are high efficiency heaters though aren't they? I just didn't recall him saying that this one was a high efficiency. Because I have seen those plumbed and exhausted with PVC.
Cost? It's plastic. That should be the cheapest option, and climbing onto that roof is nothing, that roof looks so flat you could drop a ball and catch it before it got to the edge.
Want to try that one again? Numerous manufacturers spec schedule 40 PVC meeting their venting requirements. Some also list abs, but that often gets shut down by the local code officials.
I was wondering the same thing. If it’s a straight shot, no need for flex. Eliminates the need for additional inspections as well, depending on mfr instructions.
Power vent? I travelled and worked with industrial and institutional process equipment, chillers, boilers, furnaces, etc. Not a fan of corrugated/ flex for air distribution or exhaust. Our sheet metal / duct mechanics only use 3' to 5' of flex on terminal devices. Is that horizontal run pitched for condensate drainage? Have seen too many flex hack jobs. If it's high efficiency power vented, how many bends and total linear feet of that (small) diameter pipe does the manufacturer permit? When I get called to check jobs like that (after I've been there on our medic, rescue, or engine in the middle of the night) the first tools that usually come out are the sawzall and port-a-band to cut it all out ----- Then I get out the snips, crimpers, torch/ flux/solder, pipe threading, or victaulic dies. The propress, sharkbite, and flex have never been permissable in our specs.
The boiler manufacturer does not list PVC as an acceptable vent material. If you have rats in a chimney then you have a much bigger problem than vent pipe materials but stainless steel is always an option.
"Condensing gas burning appliances." What does that mean? You mean like how burning natural gas, propane, in earths atmosphere produces h2o in the exhaust gasses . Hydrocarbons
@@mechanical-hub I am a licenced gas appliance service tech and installer. Coragated pipe leads to back pressure created by the ripples in the pipe allowing a disturbed airflow pattern. That can alow flue gasses to be pushed back in to the house. Hence why I hate seeing them on dryers they cause back pressure and trap the lint inside them more than straight pipe. Then there is the fact you are using plastic. What happens when plastic gets hot? And you want to vent hot flue gasses threw it. I dunno where you are but here we have standards and that shit is by far not up to code and wound never pass inspection.
@@DougPoker 1 no it's not made for hot gasses. Its duct pipe for central ac.2 you never want any back pressure in a system designed for flue gasses. The act of going from larger pipe to smaller(condencing) alone will cause back pressure. Then you want coragated onto that disturbing more airflow by causing disturbances in airflow? With all that back pressure the gasses that should be going outside are comming back into the house. Dont know if you got the info but carbon monoxide poisoning is a real thing. 3 plastic... you really think it's a good idea to use plastic right above of an open flame and say it's safe enough to carry out the toxic gasses? I never thought I'd say this about this shithole... thank god I live in canada where we actually have a safety code of what we can and can not do and thank god we have inspectors.
@@Sabi1234567890Asdf oh yes, it is made for hot gasses. Condensing appliances have lower exhaust temperatures. Why don't you take the time to learn a little about the subject before you reply? I've been doing this over 30 years.
@@mechanical-hub yeah I have a furnace as well and it functions similarly with a forced air exhaust but that just puts more work on your condensate return pump I feel like a quick double right angle would save a absolute shitload of electricity over the course of a year pumping out rainwater from your boilers condensate.....
@@mechanical-hub I just feel like if you wanted to actually do it completely properly you wouldn't leave an orifice that easily accepts water into it....
Not a team boiler condensate return, My apologies I was still in work mode. But a condensate pump to get the drips from the condensation that happens with the exhaust from the burner.
There are multiple ways going out the house with exhaust. Roof is easiest way in California. Going on roof isnt hard not scary if your a pro. Side venting takes up more room and when there's a leak it leaks carbon monoxide un the home. Roof is more natural venting
shit man, I'm ashamed, but never saw this here been approved, especially 2" size, gotta be a small gas appliance.. just out of curiosity, which gas appliance manufacturer allows this corrugated AND such a small size, and what's max length could be used?
I have three suppliers who will sell this to me, all three have different pricing on it. I'd suggest you call a supplier and ask what your cost is, that's not really my job I guess.
@@mechanical-hub It’s not my job to subscribe to your channel anymore either. You have a bad attitude. If you have three suppliers and they all have different place prices you could’ve provided a price range, but instead you chose to act like an asshole goodbye.
This just gave me the creeps for all the poor planning done on the builder/repair people, as you always eliminate roof penetrations if possible. Seems this could have been easily done on this home at some point
