Wow. I had the O-Ring in the wrong place and wondered why for 2 hours I couldn’t get the clip back in. Thanks for this video really helped me! Clip went back in nice and easy!
Got one of these to do later this week. I’m confident I could have figured it out but after watching this video I no longer have to. Looks very straightforward. Thank you.
Ed, the only problems I ever had were 1) giving a hard enough pull on the tab to get the old one out 2) the old one has sometimes broken in half leaving the back half stuck in the hydro block. I used needle point pliers to retrieve the remains, often in bits. You just need to sure you have got it all out so have a good look with a pen light or equivalent. Good luck. Most come out easily enough.
I was amazed they chose a plastic that detereates for the old version of the flow adapter... great video to watch before the job, problably would have been fiddiling with it for ages to work out the new style of part !
Hi Geoffrey, I'm not a plumbing or Boiler engineer, but my plumber seemed flummoxed by my 4 year old Greenstar 38CDI. So much so I decided to diagnose the problem myself. (I have 40 years of troubleshooting experience in electro-mechanical and electronics). CH works fine, great flow, fast heat and spot on temperature control. DHW another story, Water runs hot for a few minutes then gets cold, then periodically gets luke-warm. I turned off the CH, by turning the control dial on the boiler to * (Antifrosting). Then I turned the DHW control to max and ran a hot tap. The boiler didn't fire up, no pump, no fan and no ignition. After a moment the boiler did start, but not immediately (Within 5 seconds it took a good minute) when presented with a DHW demand. I operated the ECO mode, and ran the hot tap once more, ice cold water and the periodic heating stopped. The periodic heating of hot water is preheat I believe, which maintains a small amount of water hot in the system to reduce transit time to the demand HW tap. This cycle is maintained by a thermocouple temperature signal and burner / fan modulation by the controller. All this tells me there is no demand generated to fire the boiler in DHW mode. The demand is generated by a small Flow turbine, which I believe in in series with cold water supply flow into the DHW side of the H/E. Since Preheat works and regulates correctly, I can assume the control system, DHW thermistor and diverter valve are all functioning correctly. (Diverter valve must be ok since the CH does not heat up when turned off and the hot tap is run) By my analysis of the symptoms, the fault lies with the Flow Turbine, either electrically or mechanically unserviceable, the, or the Turbine output signal not being processed by the control board? (So either the control board or the Flow Turbine sensor are U/S). I deduced all this with no test equipment, just the DHW Block schematic of the Boiler. Is my analysis path correct, are the components I suspect the most likely cause in your opinion? Because my Plumber wants to replace the Heat Exchanger. I expected him to call me this morning before he collects the H/E he ordered, but he hasn't.
Thanks for your advice on the phone earlier, Geoffrey - greatly appreciated. And top page! Brilliant selection of videos. I’m sure I’ll be leaning on them in the future. Cheers, Luke.
I havent chsnged the two part plastic filter thing that go inside the adapter in your video. Could that bd the problem? Does the boiler need some sort of bleeding for trapped air? Help plz
When the water starts dripping onto the motor it will jam in one position either hot water position or Central heating this is not a CD it’s a junior but they’re all the same you will find some boiler got a green shield across the motor to stop the water dripping onto it
The correct name for this component is " The Dissolving Flow Turbine Adaptor". The joke is the green diverter motor drip cover which WB put on instead of making the adaptor from better materials. Sometimes you can't make it up.
