Before you toss your Floyd Rose equipped guitar out the window due to those constant string snaps, breaks, or tuning issues, here are a few tips that might help. Thanks for watching! Please add any ideas or suggestions.
The blocks inside the saddle clamps of a Special are fairly weak. Mine had groves in them from the strings which caused string slipping & tuning issues. I replaced mine with titanium inserts from FU-Tone, & they are great.
David Lambert, man, that is some truth there about the clamps. Still having issues. I was thinking about replacing the entire unit until I saw your post about the inserts from FU-Tone! That is a great solution, thank you!! 👍
@@raysmetaltracks6782 seriously, I can’t say enough great things about FU Tone...you should 100% also replace the stock tone block you have with one of the bigger Brass blocks. Between the change in the block, the change in saddles, & I also changed out my hardware for titanium, it made a whole new difference!!!
@@raysmetaltracks6782 also, if you ever do decide to replace your bridge all together, FU Tone has their own bridge called the FU2, & Adam Reiver builds them custom per your order. You can get colored titanium, different colors, & different tone blocks of choice...it is better than an Original Floyd by far. I bought one for another guitar, & it is solid! Stays in tune great, & is extremely durable. My favorite, & I have used Floyd Originals on my custom Jackson SL-1, so I can compare them. Floyd Special is a straight up piece of garbage though...no doubt
The high E and B strings would often pop out when I did bends on the high frets which is very anoying. I ended up bending a little the tip of the string that is in the saddle before inserting it or letting a part of the strip that I cut (the strip before the ball) into the saddle. Read that it may wear faster the saddle. Probably, but I have no more string slip even with crazy bends on the 24th fret of the high E. If it wears the saddle more, I'll change it or the whole bridge if needed. My bridge is a Jackson licensed so it may be different with other brands of the "true" Floyd.
@@frederikschulp hey there, how is it working? I swear it gremlins in the works - sometimes I will go through a period where that E string drives me nuts, and then I will go years without a problem. What kind of guitar is it? what gauge strings are you using? I like the lighter gauge strings on the bottom for lead work, with heavy on top for the chug stuff. Sometimes I wonder if that 9 gauge just doesnt always hold well with some setups. In addition, I gotta add that the Floyd they put on this particular Schecter is what they call the Floyd Rose "Special". You can buy them at Flyod Rose online for $79 bucks, where the original will cost just over $200. Honestly I'm very much considering ordering an original Floyd Rose for it - better made. These "Specials" I think just dont have the durability that the originals have. I'm sure its a way to save some money on these Schecters.
i have a problem where when i tune my guitar and i pull back on the trem a hear a string snap sound but no string snaps. and the pitch of each string go drastically up or down and the only way to fix is to change strings
Great video thanks. I'm having non stop trouble with my FR 'special'. They are crap, simple as that, we're not the only ones to have exactly the same issues with them...poor quality milling, threading, softer metal...it all adds up. Get the real thing or a Khaler.
Same thing happened to my FR Special which came standard on my EVH Wolfgang Std. Do you have any idea if it's possible to upgrade to a better FR. Are they compatible?
H.A.Guitarplayer, hey! You sure can! You can swap your FR Special with the following compatible versions: FR Original, Custom Shop, 1984, 1000 Series Original, and Titanium. Just note the string lock screws of the Floyd Rose Special are a bit shorter than on the Floyd Rose Original, for example, f your guitar was routed with the original routing diagrams, you will be in good shape. Some guitars may have a route that is a bit tighter with FR Specials. If you run into that situation you just need to route a little more space (which I think is somewhat more rare). From what I have learned from my discussion's with the FR Team, they are made compatible for this very reason. 👍 Thanks so much for posting!
My D String just broke yesterday on my Jackson Kelly JS32 while I was playing, thing is I was only doing flutters with the bar and the D String wasn’t the string I was playing on.. it broke at the bridge.
Hey Danny, thanks for the post! Do you have locking tuners by chance? On my Jackson Minion, when I use 9 gauge strings, sometimes the string will break due to tension near the neck. What gauge are you using? Sometimes moving to a stronger brand can help - the NYXLs are a bit more expensive, but I've had good luck with lower gauge strings. Sometimes you kind of have to break the strings in a bit to help bring them to life before much Floyd use. They are temperamental little buggers, that's for sure!
There is this problem: Last time i broke my high e string and the technician changed it the next day it broke again. He then changed it again and told me that because I was locking the nut too much it 'dug' a hole and thats why it broke so easily. He said he will do fix it in a temporary way and he somehow pushed the little block on the tremolo system (that corresponds to the high e string) and then i had no problem for a year and more. Now the string broke again (the high e again) and i want to change the strings alone but im afraid it will break again because of that. Does anybody know what im talking about? What can i do except for changing a floyd system?
I had this problem on my Charvel from the 80's. I was cranking down on the nut to lock it too tight - I ended up having to replace the entire unit due to the fact that I had done the same to the other strings as well. I have also had as a temporary fix gone up a gauge in strings to try and a bit more girth to help the issue until I got a new unit. Its a pain, and why I really go easy on tightening strings down now. I feel your pain brother!
my problem is over tightening. just put two and two together after breaking my third a string. was doing a dive, then, bong! the little square piece inside the saddle is also difficult for me. i do my best to leave as small a gap between the square and the part of the saddle closest to the neck. but on my a string saddle, there's so much gap and even tightening the screw on the back of the bridge, that can only go so far changing strings on a FR for me isn't hard, retuning isn't hard, but when it comes to little petty, nit-picky things like this, i'm going to take it to guitar center and have them do it. i can only play for a few hours then my string frays
hey, i recently changed my pickups on my Jackson JS32 with the floyd rose. i pulled the strings from the saddles and put them back on when i was done. tuned up fine, had like 2 strings pop. redid it, and locked it down at the nut, and did a whammy squeal. my strings all went out of tune, my low E even raised in pitch. the high E popped. did another whammy, the rest of them popped out besides the A and low E. got any solutions?
can anyone help me out? with my FR bridge if i dive w the tremolo my high e string stays tight. (the pitch doesnt change or the string doesnt loosen like the rest. its an evh wolfgang standard. cant find anything online
@vTFrey, sorry for the delay getting back to you. That is a tricky issue. When you dive the bar, it sounds like there is something blocking the Floyd from loosening the tension on the string. I have come across an issue before where the mounting space (its that little "C" shaped inlet right in front of the tremolo bar mount - this is where the bridge rests against the mounting posts on the body of the guitar. This point and the point on the other side of the bridge are the only two points of contact the bridge has with the guitar. For some reason, this can get "stuck", often when changing strings and you have it blocked to work in it. I've had this happen a few times. You can dive the Floyd, but it wont move because its wedged and stuck. This can be fixed - let me know if this could be the issue you are seeing. You will be able to tell as one side of the Floyd will be higher than the other (the stuck side will be lower, as if its already in the "dive" position).
@brandon, hey there Brandon, is your string snapping when you are playing, using your trem, or when you are trying to load your strings? Those tuners are not locking, correct?
@Citroneon Gaming, oh yes, I feel your pain. That can be frustrating as hell. Often the string will slip due to a couple of issues. Rarely is it caused (from what I have found) due to the string not being tightened enough, as it really doesn't take too much to get the string securely tightened. Usually I have found that there is an issue with the block connection where the sting sits in the slot. I have found that if you make sure you have the string all the way in the block by keeping consistent pressure on the string tension with your left hand, and then (while keeping the string pushed up inside the block so it doesn't slide out), with your right hand lock the string in place. Sometimes I have seen where the string will slip a bit once they put the string in the block and go to tighten it up. Make sure its snug, bot not overtightened. Most of the time there is something preventing a snug connection between the block and the string. This can be due to wear, where over time the block connection starts to lose its edge and a groove will almost start to form. Its fairly rare, but it does happen every so often. The majority of issues is usually due to some debris in the block itself, such as very small piece of string. Try using some compressed air to make sure the block is cleaned out, or a gentle brush (like your buddy's current toothbrush 😉) to clean out the block where the string slides in. Some techs will suggest a higher gauge string, but I feel it should work even with the lightest gauge strings. Also make sure you get a good clean cut on your string so that the connection between the string and the block is solid. Hope this helps, let me know if it still gives you trouble. Thanks for your comment! 👍
@@raysmetaltracks6782 hey I've tried some solutions and nothing is working still. I think there is a groove where the string should sit causing it to slide out from there no matter how tight the block is. Anything I can do to fix this?
