I am finding these light testing videos really annoying, the first two I watched only showed testing one end of the bulb, now this one doesn’t tell me what multimeter setting to use for the ballast leads.
I have a problem with several under-counter fluorescent lights that have been burnt out for a while. I bought a pack of 5 off eBay, and only 2 out of 5 worked. They appear fine, but 3 wouldn't light. I also bought a pack of 3 from Amazon. One I replaced, and it works fine. The second fixture was burnt out as well, but neither of the extra 2 works in the remaining fixture. Why so many apparently bad bulbs? None should have come on if a bad ballast but only 2 out of 5 replacement bulbs worked. I don't understand why such a high percentage of replacement bulbs off eBay- damaged in shipping? They are t5 16 and 20-inch bulbs.
Your test at 4:40: You put the multimeter's terminals in the connector. A guy in another video puts only one in the connector and one on the ground cable...
Can you use a simple continuity tester to check and see if the bulb is good or not ? Mine 'beeps' when you touch the leads of the tester together so I'm guessing a beep when you put the pos and neg leads onto the two pins that stick out of the ends of the bulbs means the bulb is good , right ? Thanks !
@@cagmito76 I tested my bulbs T8 thin after seeing your video with my meter on olms and they read 30 ohms so I knew they were good, and they worked in another fixture. I want to check the ballast and wonder if I can check the voltage at the pins holes with my meter set to 240 volts?
Get a volt reading and a amp reading on one of the good ones and multiply those 2 numbers together for watts. Like here in U.S. a 120v system drawing .25 amps is a 30 watt. V x A = Watts