Great video! I am an retired 20 year U.S. Navy Electrician and I support the approach to go turn the circuit breaker off and add placing white duck tape over the local switch (electrical write work in-process) on the tape. Just something that popped into my mind. Could be a very useful step to include in your process. Keep up the good work Sir!
Just found your channel, really enjoying your content. The production quality is high, the content is useful, and I cannot praise enough going into the code book and explaining each section. That thing is dry, and having someone else read through it really helps with comprehension.
As someone who collects old lighting gear, one thing I've realized is that 4 lamp F40T12 ballasts either don't exist, or are so rare that it's not worth using them in 4 lamp fixtures. I usually prefer to retrofit fixtures to LED rather than replacing, especially if the old fixtures are still in good shape. Mostly because I've seen a good few LED fixtures fail before their rated lives, and in almost every case, the fixture has to be replaced due to the non-serviceable design of most LED fixtures, and a lot of LED tubes could be bought for about the same cost as a pair of fluorescent tubes. (anywhere between $4 to $10 per LED tube, depending on who you source it from and what type). The old fixtures appear to be made by Lithonia Lighting, the same mfg who made the new fixtures you're installing, one thing about their LED fixtures is a lot of times, they reuse the same housings used for their fluorescent fixtures with their LED fixtures (granted, others might do the same, I just have more experience with Lithonia). Now there's nothing inherently wrong with that, it just means you could achieve the same thing by putting LED strips in the fluorescent version of the fixture.
That’s what I thought this video was going to do when the term retrofit was used. All he did was replace fluorescent with LED; retrofit is exactly what you described, using the old fluorescent fixture with LED.
This is very true, i actually try to avoid led when i can i have recently fitted a fluorescent into one of my rooms, and a SON lantern in my shed as apposed to led
Retrofitted our entire building to fluorescent T8's from F40 years ago. Recently started slowing switching to LED T8's by area in the building. Just put the new LED tubes in place and you are done. Side benefit is no dead fixtures in the landfill and we store the used tubes to replace in the areas not switched over.
They also make t12 leds, u remove the ballasts and direct wire the end connectors to mains. They’re the most convenient swap out and when one of the leds burns out you don’t have to swap a whole fixture again.
@@danlux4954 usually you do this institution wide so it’s not like anyone will have any other options but I do see the point of dbling down against people making mistakes. Stickers is a good idea
@@arsenicjones9125 the led 120V bulbs I had purchased had the stickers included, but I have since installed electronic ballasts and when to the retrofit led bulbs. Probably use the 120V ones in my garage.
@@danlux4954 I’m using the 120v ones for my shop and I split the 4 tubes onto 2 switches. So now I have different light level and different color temperature options.
I installed sixteen 4' long LED Shop Light Fixtures in a friend's Cabinet Woodworking Shop. Mounted them to the Steel Purlins with self-tapping self drilling sheet metal screws with 1/4 '' hex heads and used 1/2 '' Steel EMT from fixture to fixture and from the wall mounted switch box to the first fixture, a few years ago . I installed a 4'' square junction box at the start for each row of lights to feed the EMT from to the fixtures. I used Velcro Straps to hold the fixtures in place until I got them drilled and attached in place with the self-tapping self drilling sheet metal screws with the 1/4'' hex heads. He was very happy and satisfied with the finished job and they are super bright and really light up his Cabinet Woodworking Shop ! I did the whole installation by working off a scaffold about 10 ' off of the floor by myself.
I buddy of mine learned this the hard way when an OSHA inspector came around the corner and he was standing like this. Ended up getting hit with a big fine.
You're absolutely right but sometimes ya just gotta git'r done though bud, grabbing the taller ladder after realizing ya need it means a trip back to the van loading/unloading two ladders instead of one and that's just bad math... Sure we'd be wise to pay attention to ceiling height before deciding which ladder to grab but if you've already been lugging ladders around all day along with tons of other crap while the boss watches (aka apprenticing) ya might do what ya can to lessen the loads on your back even if it might put ya in a questionable safety position. 😄
In our industrial plant we are replacing old fluorescent lightbulbs with ballast bypass LED lightbulbs. We don’t have to remove the ballast to recycle. Just take the in-line hot and connect to the line side of the tombstones. And the neutral to the neutral side of the tombstones. Large cost savings going from a 34w to a 24w led
Pilots have a saying. There are some old pilots and there are some bold pilots. There are no old bold pilots. It is the same for electricians. Great video Dustin. A lot of good information in the content. I like the safety and code nuggets a lot.
@@stevebabiak6997 I wish they'd never do that with anything. Majority of the time it's a clearance item(s)/cheap pos with a multitude of unnecessary extra parts/steps you have to baby to install without shit breaking apart.
Everything that’s doesn’t include getting the main power shutoff. Basically you can mess with the panel but you can’t pull a permit to get the power shut off so you can’t replace it. Everything else is fair game, be careful if you don’t have insurance and check your local regulations. Mine doesn’t allow work worth over $25,000. Home owners can pull homeowners permit which would allow you to change out your panel or a family members but this can be tricky to get approved sometimes
You shouldn't work on anything live for the first 3-5 years as an apprentice IMO. This will help develop the use of testing equipment and create a better respect for electricity. I always have to have a level of respect for electricity as an electrician and the day I start underestimating the need for testing is the day I need to quit. This is why its better to not work on anything live for at least the first 3-5 years as an apprentice.
@@Jzzonem Maybe true but fact of the matter is working on live stuff is kinda part of the job, often ya don't really have a choice and getting bit a couple times in the beginning is how most of us learn to best avoid it. LoL It's kinda like those times when we were kids and our parents told us not to do something and explained the consequences if we did but as soon as they left the room we were like YOLO! and did it anyway, hard lesson learned and the smart ones never do it again. 😆
@@eds6569 I would say that is true if your an experienced electrician and you get complacent. Not as an early on apprentice. I work on anything from 120volts to 2600volts. 2600 volts would obviously be something you don't have the luxury of getting bit from. In my experience there is never any good reason why someone should have gotten shocked, but it happens. Apprentices need to first learn how to work safely. I know a lot of old electricians and a lot of bold electricians, but I dont know any old bold electricians. I can appreciate what your saying and still laugh about it, but I dont agree.
@@eds6569 As the old proverb goes “A smart man learns from his own mistakes, but a wise man learns from other people’s mistakes”, another 1 I like is “a Jack of all trades is a master of none, but is still more valuable than a master of one”. Most people drop the 2nd part of that adage. I’m a 25 year vet of HVAC and 3 years ago became an electrician apprentice. I work for a company that does HVAC , plumbing, and electrical, when HVAC is slow due to weather I’ll move to electrical and help them out. I can already do plumbing and electrical but why not pick up another card and get paid for it
I have a quick hint that has saved me a few headaches and the Up&Down Ladder Game. 1st I get (2)PVC (SDR) 4"× 30" w/ test caps glued on bottom ziptied one to each leg on the outside. This will hold the old T8 bulbs as well as the new ones. 2nd I get a magnet strip for tool bench and ziptye it to the fly leg of the ladder. It holds the ballast covers.
Love your stuff. Safety Tip. Work off a properly sized ladder. You are always on the top or second to top rung. Also, just because the light switch is off doesn't mean the wires in the light box are. Many times the feeds go to the light with only switch legs going down to the switch. Turn off the breaker. Tag it or at least put tape over it. If the lightning doesn't get you the 9 foot fall after the lightning might. Stay Safe!
Done tons of led retrofits but I watch videos like this to see how others do it to hopefully catch helpful tricks that help make it easier/faster to do so thanks for the hands on videos like this and all your other content. Also: Nintendo For Life!
Never heard about or seen quick connects for those fixtures before. But I've also only ever worked on them in my home. I'll watch out for those in the future. I'm just now starting to replace my florescents with LEDs. Thanks for the info!
Nice video! Great work! I call it a diffuser, not a reflector. I use 1/4" toggle bolts with a 1/2" paddle bit for the holes. You have to get used to working live as a professional electrician. But yes, I turn it off whenever possible. A neutral will kill faster than a hot wire ever thought. When in commercial environment, this is why there is a need for the quick connects. Thoss are there for anyone who has to maintain the fixtures after install. The neutral has the consumed current vs. The hot before it is consumed by the light or equipment. I've know good electricians that are no longer with us because of not understanding this and worked live on 277volt lighting. Working live doesn't make you a hardass. Be safe and great video!
Good thoughts and I never thought of the neutral like that. I like to reed the comments because everyone has a different approach. I always learn something. Thanks for writing in your comment
Customers trying to be helpful scare the crap out of me. They see me working in the dark and are like, " here, let me turn the lights on for you". It just doesn't click until you tell them you don't appreciate not being blinded by a blue flash in a dark room while your on a ladder.
Now how tf I never new that rule about the quick connects…. Always wire nutted ballasts… never stop learning!!! 2020 change….. - EMERGENCY disconnect on the outside … called the local power company for them to develop a disconnect in the meter socket 🤣 Wish my luck. Awesome channel!
The city I worked for went all LED. My coworker and I converted over 200 to LED's. We got really fast and good doing them after so many. Having two people made it so much better. One of us would go up the ladder and one would grab the old parts and hand up the new LED ballast and bulbs then the cover. You still got sore but going up and down the ladder only once per fixture was a lot easier. The ground guy also toted the ladder. That made for some long days. Neither one of us were spring chickens either. We used the same fixture 90 percent of the time. We just pulled out the old ballasts and secured and capped off all the exposed wires.
Naughty boy on the too short ladder. Otherwise good vid. At some point you might consider discussing use of fluoro's outdoors where they don't work in cold temps.
I always turn power off at the breaker. And have a lockout device that attaches to the breaker so I can physically put a padlock on the breaker. You just never know. Either that or the light switch is in another room where you can't always see it.
Hyperikon 4 Foot LED Tube, T8 T10 T12 40 Watt Replacement (18W), Single End Ballast Bypass, Clear Lens, UL, DLC, Crystal White. Get you some! I've never had a single failure. Save the Fixture... Bypass the ballast... EZ Peazy.
Love your videos, you and Sparky Channel are my two go-to electrical channels on RU-vid. I'm a handyman and currently working my way through your Electrician U series, which is excellent
I couldn't agree with you more about eliminating risks where possible. One job that I had was replacing fluorescent lamps with LED in a common area in an animal shelter. There were people coming and going all the time in the room since it was during the shelter's adoption hours. To eliminate the risk I shut the lights off at the switch, put some duct tape over the switch, switched off the breaker, and put some duct tape over the panel door. Nothing's foolproof of course, but those physical barriers gave enough people enough pause to ask me if they could turn on the lights - while I was up on the ladder fastening the wirenuts! It worked, and I'm still here to tell the tale.
This video was really insightful, as I’m more used to working electrical install as an apprentice. I’m about to take on a four month service call to swap out old fixtures and installing LEDs in each one, along with tons of light switch replacements in a big school.
Great video. Thank you for presenting safely and smartly - unlike a video I just saw of a person removing a ceiling florescent fixture. re-attaching a wall-mount bathroom light to the ceiling without a box (!!!) and complaining about the viewers questioning his skill. (Has a anyone else watched that dumpster fire of a video?) It makes you appreciate professionals like yourself! Good job.
Great video! But, the technical name of a “tombstone” is a “lamp holder”. Tombstone is a slang term. As far as I know, there were no three, four, or more lamp magnetic ballasts when the magnetic (2) lamp F40T12 ballasts was the workhorse up till the early 1990’s. It was mostly with the advent of the electronic F33T8 ballast did they start producing fluorescent ballasts that could handle multiple number of lamps and voltages from 120-277V, which saves on the number of ballast SKUs out there. In this day and age, fluorescent technology is being replaced by LED technology which is exciting!
*On top of what you said about turning the power off, even if the shock isn't too bad, if you're on a higher type of ladder, the shock can cause you to fall, so even if the shock doesn't hurt you, the fall definitely may.*
Thanks for sharing you wealth of knowledge Dustin! I have learned a lot from your channel. Will you be making some video in the future talking about the topic of motors and motor controls?
I hate it when the customer turns on random breakers. I remember working on a welder plug, and I don't mess around with them and treated it as hot even though I knew the breaker was off. Then my jman comes up to me and says, "you know that's hot right?" Got my tester, it was hot. Turns out the customer loves flipping breakers.
Lol one time I was at a lady house replacing her lights It was just me around so I decided that one time to just turn off the light and not the breaker . The lady walked in the room saw me and with out thinking she tried to turn on the light she heard me say hay stop I’m working on the light and she was like oh my gosh I’m sorry .
I've worked on a lot of T12 Fluorescent fixtures myself. The most recent one was an 8ft fixture above my workbench. As far has having multiple ballasts, one possibility is that they used ballasts rated for only two lamps, and those fixtures have 4 lamps, so two ballasts. Most electronic ballasts can support 4 lamps, but the fixtures featured here look "vintage", as in not having had replacements for a few decades.
I tag any circuits I am working on and it states DO NOT TURN ON! Helps find the circuit quickly. Also the minimized trips up & down the ladder helps keep my knees working longer. Thanks many times over.
Love those jobs too bro. You’re right as well, turn the breaker off when you can. Almost had a customer hit light switch before, my yell stopped her in her tracks 😂. It was one of those older houses with the messy wiring & unlabeled panel.
Another great reason to shut off power at panel is too many times I've come across switched neutrals instead of switched hots, especially in older homes where the switches are on old knob and tube and someone has changed the lines somewhere in the walls to romex.
I would not have replaced the whole fixture, take the ballast out rewire fixture so you can install bypass led bulbs and call it a day!! Retrofit for the win!
Re: Shut the power off... It should've been obvious, but I found out the hard way that turning off the wall switch doesn't protect you in wiring scenarios where the incoming power goes first into the ceiling box, with just a switch leg going down the wall. Granted it should be different conductors, but still it's a hot box.
My very old house has that same style of fixture-first wiring! Learned that lesson a long time ago... I don't think its done that way anymore, but DIY-ers beware.
And then factor in that it was often the neutral line that was controlled by the switch years ago, and you’re doubly set up for electrocution if u don’t know what you are doing
Thoughts on doing the LED retrofit lamps and just rewiring the existing fixtures to bypass the ballast? Haven't done the numbers in a while to see if it's still cheaper for the customer that way.
Not an electrician but a few years back an older friend had multiple 48” bulbs that were bad. Lowe’s had GE LED tubes that didn’t require bypassing the ballasts, they bought the tubes and I did the ladder work for them. No need to replace the fixtures. Those tubes did have instructions on bypassing the ballasts if you need to. I think the tubes cost $8 each.
You need a sticker to be installed because adding a regular fluorescent bulb on a 120 circuit will cause them to explode. They make retrofit led tubes that work with an electronic ballast.
Ok this is a great video for someone who is a newbie. With that said I’ve been working in all types of commercial settings and you cannot turn off a breaker say an office so what you do, is cap off your power or line side removed the balast which 9 times out of 10 doesn’t have a quick disconnect connector changed out the balast and you’re done. On those LED you can also purchase T8 LED tubes or if you want to remove the balasts, you can put in direct wire LED T8 no driver needed unless as in your case you can replace the whole fixture, no offense just suggesting other faster options
Code governs all aspects of installation and most inspectors use common sense as apart inspection, but there is a code that pertains to faceting a light fixture to the ceiling. Everything from screw size for fixture weight ratio to how many facets necessary to hang the fixture. A red piece of tape with the word danger over the light switch or breaker may stop someone from turning it on, but always work on devices as if they were energized...
Having old two ballast fixtures also made it so you could have to bulbs come on with a switch and then the other two with another switch. Kinda a way to have dimming in an office space before 0-10v dimming.
Love the new format for the videos. Sections for code, sponsors, teaching, advice.. well done. Standing on the top two steps of the ladder is an issue for these other folks who are probably not from Texas where the fuzz on the peaches is thicker than most other states. I doubt OSHA was planning a trip to the garage you were changing these 8' high lights. Remember folks, he's a master, not some new apprentice that has never used anything bigger than a step ladder to get their captain crunch out of the pantry. Much love from Cali, brotato. Keep on keepin on.
He should have used an 8 foot ladder here. I can tell he is a master at what he does but I also noticed he dropped one of the bolts that secured the light he was removing and when a bolt is loose on the floor and you set a ladder up, the bolt can make that leg of the ladder prone to slipping thus unsteady. It is not about his ability here but rather an example to others he is trying to show the correct way to do this job. He talked about not going up & down the ladder but the better thing to do here is have a table set up to work on these lights so you are not bending down and working on the floor. I would set up a rolling scaffolding high enough to work on the lights while I am right on the rolling scaffolding. But I am not from Texas.
Bro…you have no idea how much BS you saved me from. The toggle bolt tip was all I needed but no other vids mentioned them. Thank you thank you thank you!!!! I knew as soon as I saw the boots you knew your stuff!
G'day mate from Melbourne, Aussie. Retired "Sparkie" here and apart from the voltage and hertz, I recognised everything you said mate. Great video. Cheers , Rob
Code Time - NEC art. 410-24(B) Access to boxes. A chase nipple in the back of the fixture does not meet Code. You need to punch a 2 1/2 - 3" access hole. Per code - you need to have access to the wiring in the box, without removing the fixture.
2 more things, 1.> I thought those were defusers, reflectors were the metallic backing for the up-firing ones? 2.> jump on the SNAPTOGGLE heavy-duty toggle bolts train, just gives you a threaded hole in the wall/ceiling, I love them for TV, projector mounts, really anything I can use them for.
Navy base safety dept. on the contract I work has stipulated ballast driven "substitube" LED T8 and T5 lamps because the ballast delete style caused fires. The delete style comes in different configurations where the hot and neutral are either split on one tube end (tombstone) or wired to each end dependently. There was no standardization and mixing of types caused confusion.
And as a good electrician whenever doing work for a good looking homeowner gal, don't forget to offer to check her shorts! Sorry, I couldn't help myself.... lol
I found if its an aesthetic part and its not going to be touched get some thick CA glue and activator off amazon or from a woodworking store and use it to glue that part back together. But use this sparingly so not every thing is super glued together.
I installed two LED bulbs in a four-bulb flourescent fixture and they worked beautifully. Yesterday they both failed at the same time. I moved the bulbs to other slots hoping one of the two ballasts was still functional. No joy. Breaker was not tripped. So now I plan to bypass the ballasts and see what happens. Of course, I need to verify the wall switch did not fail. Weird.
Regarding the ~16:00 bit about hot work and people turning breakers on on you, my (now dead, but not from this) grandpa got shocked by something ungodly while working for a sign company. I don't remember what the voltage was, but it was something in either the thousands or tens of thousands and I always wondered how TF he lived after it. He was rightfully so pretty upset and bitter at whatever manager let the employee go flip the breaker WHILE he was still working on the sign.
SAFETY TIP UPDATE 14:42 onward in video. Please update your video. In this video you say: (When I switch the light switch off i can go safely work on the light fixtures in the room.) DANGER this statement is untrue. Depending how the switch and fixtures are wired, the switch could be feeding power to the fixture or acting as a switch to close/open the return. Always test all circuits before touching any wiring. Even neutrals. Just assuming the bulb/tubes are no longer working without thinking it may be an electrical fault can be dangerous. Overall great videos. Keep up the good work.
That's was an awesome job, normally I don't mind the going up and down the ladder, as long as I don't fall from up there.. Your job was great, thank you so much for sharing
I love your videos man, good instructional, certain things you mention such as pulling down the fixture when removing or drilling in screws, those are things only people that are in the biz know lol.
I think that there are 2 two lamp ballasts in there is so that you can wire them separately. That way you can have two switches and can dim or brighten the area as desired.
Additionally, allows for half the lights to be on an "always on" circuit while the rest are switched. See it all the time with the facilities I work for. Buildings are occupied frequently, but only momentarily and randomly. So entry lights and every 5-7 after that are typically always on.
I think the hardest part of converting from florescent to LED is finding the bulbs to buy on line. I've been looking for these: 4FT T8 LED Light bulbs, 6000K, 2400 Lumens, Dual-End Powered, Ballast Bypass, Frosted Cover. Wattage, CRI, etc., I can be flexible. Every time I come close to these specks they want me to buy a 30 pack when I only need 8. Where is your recommended place to buy LED bulbs? Thanks Bob
Even in a dead box, I cover the ends of the bare wire with wagos. Just figure out if you’ll need a 2, 3 or 5 way. Might as well put them on in the beginning, you’ll need them anyway.
I had a couple of ballasts go bad, and pricing out parts it made sense to convert to led. Afterwards the ladies in the office said it was too bright! A few months later they had me change out all the lights. Luckily I had an intern on the ground to be my "go for".
I have never used toggle bolts. Unless the fixture is parallel to the joists, there will be wood on the other side of the wall board. If necessary, I will add screw holes to the fixture.
Turn off the breaker and padlock the box shut so it can't be turned on until the job is done. I was taught about what he was talking about in the safety segment in my first college semester so I know where he is coming from there.
A fluorescent tube ballast not only restricts me current coming through as a choke but it also generates the high voltage to strike the tube that's why you have one per tube. It is not a transformer. A LED requires either a constant current or constant voltage driver depending on the configuration of the LED whether it's a single string with designed to run with a limited current, or every LED has a current limiting resistor on board the strip.